|
|
08-22-2013, 03:46 PM | #23 |
Brigadier General
594
Rep 4,488
Posts |
^ Thanks for the update. I'm still waiting for my replacement calipers to arrive, but this makes me wonder a) whether the new calipers will have the same issue, in which case I'll just send the replacements back rather than swapping out the currently installed calipers, and b) whether this issue might go away naturally with use. If B is going to happen, I'm kind of hoping for A to happen as well so I can avoid the hassle of a caliper swap (plus writing off a practically new fill of Castrol SRF), although I feel like StopTech would have told me that this would go away with time if that were the case rather than sending replacement calipers. Instead, both StopTech and HP Autowerks said that they'd never heard of this issue.
All that said, if this somehow is a normal deal for the ST60 caliper, obviously I wish they would instead just work out of the box. There's no mention of tight/impossible initial fit on the installation instructions, after all, and a big draw for these calipers is quick and easy pad swaps, which becomes less quick and easy if you need a hammer and pry bar. But JAJ you're confident that the issue you're seeing WILL go away with time? Or are you just guessing/hoping?
__________________
'16 Cayman GT4 (delivery pics, comparison to E92 M3 write-up)
Gone but not forgotten: '11.75 M3 E92 Le Mans | Black Nov w/ Alum | 6MT (owned 5/2011 - 11/2015) |
Appreciate
0
|
08-22-2013, 06:44 PM | #24 |
Captain
107
Rep 697
Posts |
I'll add to this thread that my st60 pads also fit very tightly like you are describing, but they have loosened up after a couple years of use and probably 30+ pad changes. The rear st40 pads slip right in and out and are much easier to change.
While I applaud stoptech for sending you a new caliper, I personally wouldn't want to be bothered with installing them. Just file down the pads or the abutment plates in the caliper and be done with it. |
Appreciate
0
|
08-22-2013, 11:24 PM | #25 | |
Captain
80
Rep 961
Posts |
Quote:
Despite this manufacturing glitch, Stoptech produces top quality products. They make the pads a little "tight" to control noise and it's a strategy that works. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-22-2013, 11:57 PM | #26 | |
Major General
1567
Rep 8,074
Posts
Drives: 11 E90 M3 Individual
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Houston, TX
|
Quote:
__________________
2018 F30 320iX Melbourne Red
2011 E90 M3 Monte Carlo Blue 2004 E46 M3 Imola Red 2000 E36/7 Z3 Steel Blue |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-26-2013, 11:50 AM | #27 | ||
Brigadier General
594
Rep 4,488
Posts |
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
'16 Cayman GT4 (delivery pics, comparison to E92 M3 write-up)
Gone but not forgotten: '11.75 M3 E92 Le Mans | Black Nov w/ Alum | 6MT (owned 5/2011 - 11/2015) Last edited by jphughan; 08-26-2013 at 12:45 PM.. |
||
Appreciate
0
|
08-27-2013, 12:53 AM | #30 |
Private First Class
10
Rep 119
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-27-2013, 10:38 AM | #31 |
-
11815
Rep 23,187
Posts |
okay let us know what you find out. on my install i just used thread lube and hand tightened with t-handle. cant really get accurate torque readings when using a lubricant on the threads.
__________________
02 Tiag e46 M3|6MT|GC plates|MCS c.o.|GC bars|GC race control arms|GC bushings|BW eng. & tran. mounts|subframe kit|BW race shifter|BW Jaffster|Euro header|BW exhaust|K&N c.a.i.|Epic race tune|Rouge pulleys|Seibon CF hood|CSL bumper|apr gt 250 & splitter|ST-40|XR-2|SS lines|half cage|Recaro profi|Profi 2 harness|BMWpedals|BW studs| |
Appreciate
0
|
08-30-2013, 05:09 PM | #32 |
Brigadier General
594
Rep 4,488
Posts |
UPDATE: Received the new set of pads from StopTech to test with the new calipers -- same problem. In most fitment cases the pad backing plate was just slightly too wide to fit between the caliper abutment plates. With a certain pad in a certain sides of one of the calipers, I was able to get the pad to fit, but even with the caliper resting on the floor and pressing down on the pad, it took quite a bit of effort to get the pad all the way into the caliper. If the caliper had been upright and mounted on the car, getting that done would certainly have required a mallet, but even after I got the pad in, it took a mallet to get the pads back OUT, which suggests to me that even in that one case that fit into the caliper, the pad would have bound inside the caliper if I tried to use them on the car without modification. Meanwhile, the race pads that my shop had ground down to fit in my existing calipers slid into the new calipers perfectly.
At this point I'm going to return the replacement calipers rather than going through the cost and hassle of swapping since it won't fix the issue. As to the issue itself, I guess at this point I have no choice but to hope that this problem will go away with time and use, and that pads will start fitting properly without needing to be ground down first. If that happens, great. If not, there isn't really a different BBK on the market I'd rather have, and I'm not crazy about going back to stock, so I guess in that case I'd just keep what I've got and consider pad grinding an unexpected but unavoidable inconvenience of the kit.
__________________
'16 Cayman GT4 (delivery pics, comparison to E92 M3 write-up)
Gone but not forgotten: '11.75 M3 E92 Le Mans | Black Nov w/ Alum | 6MT (owned 5/2011 - 11/2015) |
Appreciate
0
|
08-30-2013, 05:11 PM | #33 | |
Brigadier General
594
Rep 4,488
Posts |
Quote:
Torque spec on the jet nuts that attach the caliper to the bracket, on the other hand, DOES matter, though you'd only need to do that to replace the rotors or if you run into issues getting pads in or out. That spec is 40 lb-ft (480 lb-inch). Same warning about not losing the washers under the jet nuts. You sure using thread lube is ok on those bolts? The manual doesn't mention anything about it.
__________________
'16 Cayman GT4 (delivery pics, comparison to E92 M3 write-up)
Gone but not forgotten: '11.75 M3 E92 Le Mans | Black Nov w/ Alum | 6MT (owned 5/2011 - 11/2015) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-30-2013, 05:48 PM | #34 |
-
11815
Rep 23,187
Posts |
The instructions don't say to use it but talked with an installer prior who has done tons of them and suggested it because its a steel bolt going into aluminum. To help prevent it binding up.
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-30-2013, 05:49 PM | #35 |
Major General
1567
Rep 8,074
Posts
Drives: 11 E90 M3 Individual
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Houston, TX
|
Yup. I've been using Stoptechs for 4 years now, haven't had a bridge bolt come out yet. The torque on the bolts is not holding that bridge in. In fact most people grossly over torque those bolts when it's not necessary. Barely hand tight is all that's required.
In fact, you can greatly help your situation by greasing the edges of the pads which help them slide in and out much easier.
__________________
2018 F30 320iX Melbourne Red
2011 E90 M3 Monte Carlo Blue 2004 E46 M3 Imola Red 2000 E36/7 Z3 Steel Blue |
Appreciate
0
|
08-30-2013, 06:03 PM | #36 | |
Brigadier General
594
Rep 4,488
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
'16 Cayman GT4 (delivery pics, comparison to E92 M3 write-up)
Gone but not forgotten: '11.75 M3 E92 Le Mans | Black Nov w/ Alum | 6MT (owned 5/2011 - 11/2015) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-31-2013, 11:07 AM | #37 |
Private First Class
10
Rep 119
Posts |
Yep, I ended up using a mallet and kinda hammer it down because a tap just wouldn't work, it's so tight. I was considering a lube but ended up just muscling it in. It's working well though. Afraid at first that the pistons would have an issue pushing it on the rotors. The track pads I used just slides in. Well, because the installer filed the edges down. Now I'm concern about a gash forming a precise ring around the rotor on both sides. Wonder if it's normal
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-01-2013, 09:07 PM | #38 | |
Brigadier General
594
Rep 4,488
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
'16 Cayman GT4 (delivery pics, comparison to E92 M3 write-up)
Gone but not forgotten: '11.75 M3 E92 Le Mans | Black Nov w/ Alum | 6MT (owned 5/2011 - 11/2015) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-01-2013, 11:02 PM | #39 |
Captain
80
Rep 961
Posts |
In my earlier post, I said that I'd flattened the abutment plates because they were too tight. When I installed the brake kit, I put the racing pads in as the initial install because there was a track day coming up.
The track day was last week, and when I got home I did the first pad swap from racing pads to the Stoptech Street Performance pads. Used pads slipped out and new pads slipped in just fine. |
Appreciate
0
|
09-02-2013, 09:04 AM | #40 | |
Brigadier General
594
Rep 4,488
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
'16 Cayman GT4 (delivery pics, comparison to E92 M3 write-up)
Gone but not forgotten: '11.75 M3 E92 Le Mans | Black Nov w/ Alum | 6MT (owned 5/2011 - 11/2015) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-02-2013, 12:09 PM | #41 |
Captain
80
Rep 961
Posts |
At risk of repeating myself, I'll summarize the journey again: When I first dry-fitted mine, the pads wouldn't go into the gap. I felt around in there and found that there was a burr on the top edge of the abutment plate that was stopping the pad from going into the gap, so I took a file and in 10 seconds or so the burr was gone. The pads still wouldn't go in, so I filed the burr off the edge of the pad backing plate. Then, it went in until it hit the "bump" and stopped again. Getting it past the bump required a hammer.
I pulled the bump-equipped abutment plates (at the bottom of the pad pocket away from the bleed screws - all it takes is a Torx T25 hex bit) and flattening the bump with a hammer and anvil. They were still tight, but the pads would go in without jamming. After two days at a race track, the pads now slip in and out just fine - you'd never know that they were ever too tight. |
Appreciate
0
|
09-03-2013, 10:21 AM | #42 |
Brigadier General
594
Rep 4,488
Posts |
^ Understood, I think I can better visualize it now that I've been able to examine the replacement calipers while they're off the car. But it sounds like even in your case you ended up having to file down the pads somewhat. In my case, I placed my ground-down pads on top of the unaltered pads I received from StopTech and the ground down pads are a good 1.5 mm shorter, so I'd be amazed if burrs on the abutment plates and/or pad backing plates could account for that much of a fitment difference, and I'm pretty sure that burrs that severe would have been noticed by either the installer or myself. I'm also not crazy about hammering down the bump because I assume that's there as an anti-rattle measure to keep the pads quiet on the road, which I'd like since this is my DD.
But the bottom line in my mind is still that if the abutment plates and/or pads need to be deburred to fit correctly, then StopTech should be doing that on their products. As it stands, they sent me new StopTech calipers and new StopTech pads that didn't fit together. Why they couldn't have tested them before sending them out after I precisely described my issue to them I have no idea. I think at this point I'm just resolved that I'll be grinding down pad backing plates from now on. I'll take a precise measurement of my current modified pads so I know the spec and then bring new pads to a shop and ask them to grind them down to that number. That way I don't have to leave my car with them for test fits every time I get new pads.
__________________
'16 Cayman GT4 (delivery pics, comparison to E92 M3 write-up)
Gone but not forgotten: '11.75 M3 E92 Le Mans | Black Nov w/ Alum | 6MT (owned 5/2011 - 11/2015) |
Appreciate
0
|
09-03-2013, 11:05 PM | #43 |
Captain
80
Rep 961
Posts |
Well, it sounds like your problem is even more serious than mine - when I took the burr off the backing plate, there was still paint left on the smooth part of the edge of the backing plate, so it was still the full "nominal" length of 152mm.
Not only that, but I only deburred the backing plate on one of the four pads I installed initially, and the pads I installed on the weekend in the pad-swap had no filing done at all. |
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2014, 09:33 AM | #44 |
Colonel
720
Rep 2,342
Posts |
I wish I had read this last night when I was installing mine. I test fit pads into the rear st40 caliper just to see how the pads went in, no issue. I wished I had also checked out the st60 caliper beforehand.
The abutment plate on the calipers are the main issue. Add in questionable pad production, too much paint and it's all adds up to a super tight fit. The abutment plates are not perfectly 90 degrees on one of the pad sides, I think it's the bottom. There is a slight pinch making it appear to try to put tension on the pad. But in reality it just makes it a bitch to put the pad on. The top is 90 degrees, if both were 90 degrees them the pads should slide in and out like I'm sure most of us had envisioned. We had to Dremel down the pads and I had to tap them in with a mallet. It didn't require a lot of aggression but I didn't expect this. In my opinion this bypasses the appeal of the stoptech bbk since it in fact does not allow fast pad changes if you have to grind down sides of pads, and bash them in with a mallet. I was really hoping it was remove the bridge everything slides in and out. Reality is pry out the bridge, rip out the pads, grind down new pads, bash them in, replace the bridge. Now that I've done it and going through this thread I have to modify the caliper a bit if truly quick pad changes is my priority. Glad that JAJ confirmed my initial suspicions. I will flatten the springy abutment plate for now and order the non springy abutment plates from HP. Track car who gives if the pads rattle slightly? |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|