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      03-10-2018, 04:34 PM   #1
BRNDNSLVRA
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Rough Idle E90 M3

Cars been idling really rough lately. Cold start cycle takes a little longer than usual. The car has a very noticeable vibration. It'll sometimes bog down and shake violently. Also, especially from 3-4k rpm, its not as smooth of an acceleration as it used to be. Thought it was bad gas but this is my third fill up with the same issue.

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP
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      03-10-2018, 04:59 PM   #2
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No codes? Then it’s most likely your fuel breather valve
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      03-10-2018, 05:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
No codes? Then it’s most likely your fuel breather valve
I keep hearing
  • Idle Control Valve
  • Spark plugs (which I did a month ago so thats not possible)
  • Ignition coils

I did scan my car today at work and got these codes
  • 27EB
  • A3B2
  • A0B1
  • A0B5
  • A118
  • A37C
  • E2D4

We cleared those and they didnt come back
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      03-10-2018, 05:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 954MM View Post
I keep hearing
  • Idle Control Valve
  • Spark plugs (which I did a month ago so thats not possible)
  • Ignition coils

I did scan my car today at work and got these codes
  • 27EB
  • A3B2
  • A0B1
  • A0B5
  • A118
  • A37C
  • E2D4

We cleared those and they didnt come back
Everyone immediately says ICV but often it’s the fuel breather valve. I just changed mine out a couple weeks ago, car idled poorly struggled to not stall a few times and actually stalled a bunch of times, idle would bounce too. ICV will throw a code so if you see one for A failing ICV then ok but look into replacing the fuel breather valve first it’s $78 at Tischer

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ht=Idle&page=5

Toward the bottom of page 5 I think is where it was resolved
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      03-11-2018, 04:25 PM   #5
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breather valve most likely, pull the ICV out and give it a good cleaning also.
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      03-11-2018, 04:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon@ View Post
breather valve most likely, pull the ICV out and give it a good cleaning also.
Ordering the part this week! Gonna do what you guys suggested. Thank you
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      03-11-2018, 05:20 PM   #7
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I had same issue replaced breather valve fixed it
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      03-11-2018, 05:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhanksevo View Post
I had same issue replaced breather valve fixed it
Lettuce pray this is my issue
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      03-11-2018, 06:00 PM   #9
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Cheap and easy bro
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      03-13-2018, 02:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhanksevo View Post
Cheap and easy bro
Just drove a bone stock M3 and it pulls harder than my car : Wonder if that lil piece will really effect performance
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      03-13-2018, 02:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 954MM View Post
Just drove a bone stock M3 and it pulls harder than my car : Wonder if that lil piece will really effect performance
Performance. Probably not but your car will idle normally
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      03-13-2018, 02:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 954MM View Post
Just drove a bone stock M3 and it pulls harder than my car : Wonder if that lil piece will really effect performance
Performance. Probably not but your car will idle normally
Kinda scary because after driving that car, I realized that my car doesnt pull the same anymore. I'll do the ICV cleaning as well. Seems to be what the issue is. Was thinking TBA and bearings going bad but I doubt it.

Also, that other E90 has stock DCT software. Mine has the GTS flash but its been weird. Completely off topic but Im getting it reflashed.
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      03-13-2018, 02:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 954MM View Post
Kinda scary because after driving that car, I realized that my car doesnt pull the same anymore. I'll do the ICV cleaning as well. Seems to be what the issue is. Was thinking TBA and bearings going bad but I doubt it.

Also, that other E90 has stock DCT software. Mine has the GTS flash but its been weird. Completely off topic but Im getting it reflashed.
Yea I remember you having issues launching, maybe a reflash will do it. I don’t think the ICV would affect performance while driving, if it were a TA you’d def know it and bearing wouldn’t affect performance prior to failing so seems like it must be a software issue. Once you do the breather and the reflash you’ll have a clearer view of where to maybe look next
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      03-13-2018, 02:54 PM   #14
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Make sure you have a small hoss clamp when you replace the breather. One of the metal bands isn’t reusable
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      03-13-2018, 02:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
Make sure you have a small hoss clamp when you replace the breather. One of the metal bands isnÂ’t reusable
Nothing I cant get at Lowes/Home Depot right????
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      03-13-2018, 03:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 954MM View Post
Nothing I cant get at Lowes/Home Depot right????
Yea I forget the size but a basic one that’s about the size of your thumb or index finger I want to say 5/8. But I’m sure you’d rather have it before taking the car apart lol
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      03-13-2018, 03:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Nothing I cant get at Lowes/Home Depot right????
I recommend going to the dealer and buying the oem style Oetiker clamp to prevent any leaks.

They're cheap.
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      03-13-2018, 03:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
I recommend going to the dealer and buying the oem style Oetiker clamp to prevent any leaks.

They're cheap.
But you also need a special tool to set that clamp
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      03-13-2018, 03:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
But you also need a special tool to set that clamp
If you're in a pinch, side cutters will work fine.

Also if we are even talking about the leak detection pump, there are no hose clamps. One grommet and one clip style connection.

Perhaps you're confused with the purge valve?

EDIT: I see BMW even calls this a breather valve.
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      03-13-2018, 03:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
If you're in a pinch, side cutters will work fine.

Also if we are even talking about the leak detection pump, there are no hose clamps. One grommet and one clip style connection.

Perhaps you're confused with the purge valve?
We’re all talking about the purge valve under the hood
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      03-13-2018, 03:13 PM   #21
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Either way I would not put money on the ICV or the Purge valve. Your symptoms are present under load and these shouldn't cause an issue.

Check for misfires. Maybe you have two separate issues.
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      03-13-2018, 05:11 PM   #22
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I once had an issue with rough and low idle. Sometimes the car would even stall. So what I did was run Chevron with Techron concentrate through the fuel system and drive the car for awhile, then I changed the spark plugs. Be careful with this, because If your injectors are dirty, it can foul a plug.
This is why I suggest doing plugs after running the treatment. I also updated my DME to 2.41 with Rheingold 3.57 a year or two ago. The car runs awesome now. Idle and stalling has not been an issue at all. Not sure if this is the right path for you, but just suggesting. As for cold start, mine is a bit like that too, all of them are. As I still have my cats, I haven't gotten rid of it. Turner stage 2 software will remove the cold start cycle if your not a fan, but its only beneficial in your catless. Otherwise Stage 1 is good and will also update your DME to 2.40, which is the last update that had any fuel mapping adjustments.

Lastly, make sure your thermostat is good. If the car takes a long time for the engine to warm up, it could be a failing thermostat. I did mine just a week ago and the car is running much better. I think it had gone to a default map due to that. I had a code for the thermostat as well. So if you don't have that code, it won't likely be an issue. Also be aware that thermostat codes are intermittent, but a faulty or failing thermostat can cause poor performance.

Just wanted to offer an opinion bc the ICV is a rather expensive part and in my case, I did not need it.
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