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01-30-2013, 04:22 PM | #1 |
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Battery Options Revisited?
Know there have been prior posts about lighter weight battery options (Braille) and MINI/CSL, but from prior posts both options seem to be problematic due to low amp-hours (55 or lower). I have noticed that the M3 GT4 (motorsport car) and a few other BMW OEM batteries (for several 5 series) gave almost same power as the stock M3 battery, are lighter and seem to be cheaper on various internet parts lists. While 12-15 lbs is nothing in terms of any perceivable weight loss, was thinking that when my battery needs to be replaced (typically 4 years), why not go for a cheaper option with lighter weight, especially in warmer climates (think these other battery options have lower CCA lowest at mid 600s ratings vs original 900, but may not be as much of an issue in warmer climates).
Does anyone know/have experience with the following battery options /part numbers and whether would fit in existing battery cradle/bracket?. Original Battery: 6121 6924023 90 Ah (57.6 lbs) GT4 Battery: 6121 8376451 80Ah (45.7 lbs) – most likely fits with no mods? Other part number options for 9x/5x series 6121 8381786 90 Ah (52.6 lbs) 6121 7555719 80 Ah (41.6 lbs) 6121 8381730 70 Ah (41.2 lbs) |
01-30-2013, 05:01 PM | #2 | |
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01-30-2013, 06:03 PM | #3 |
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They should but if you have Idrive or other electronics i suggest stick with whatever you got..
idrive cars recommended at least 70ah... but thats if you dont have any other electronics stuff running. below that non idrve cars I recently purchase a battery from Sears.. heres the reason why.. 1. warranty is 3 years 2. i dont drive that often 7 miles everyday 3. sears will honor warranty no matter how you drive unlike BMW if you dont drive enough they will not replace the battery.. SPECS on sears battery AGM 49 battery 850cca 92ah..
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01-30-2013, 08:30 PM | #5 |
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The battery needs to be coded so the car draws the proper amps from the new battery and doesn't try to overcharge it. At least that's my breakdown of it. While you can go w/o coding (not recommended) it is widely stated this will reduce the life of your battery.
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01-30-2013, 11:18 PM | #6 | |
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01-30-2013, 11:23 PM | #7 |
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Sears battery (or any comparable battery) can be coded.
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01-30-2013, 11:34 PM | #8 | ||
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01-30-2013, 11:47 PM | #9 |
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I run CSL/Mini battery with zero issues. I dont drive daily and it is Californian winter here i got iDrive and every other power hungry acccessory, except upgraded sound system.
It fits like OEM, it is just smaller, so you can use remaining space to store bags of peanuts for example, just in case your battery dies and you get stranded in a wild |
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01-30-2013, 11:48 PM | #10 | |
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01-31-2013, 06:15 AM | #11 |
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My understanding is the battery is not coded per se. The coding is the reset of an internal timer in the car. The car uses this timer to determine how much to charge the battery. Older batter = more charging.
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01-31-2013, 06:34 AM | #12 |
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Does this coding need to be done for every car receiving a new battery? i.e honda, merc, chevy etc
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01-31-2013, 06:46 AM | #13 |
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01-31-2013, 09:21 AM | #14 | |
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Good to know....was worried in doing it because of auto start/stop, but looks like you also have the feature in your 2011?
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01-31-2013, 09:23 AM | #15 |
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01-31-2013, 09:32 AM | #17 |
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Not much difference when I checked. I bought a Mini battery for my 99M3 a couple of years ago for about $145 and I priced an AGM battery for my 08M3 recently for about $160, both at Autozone.
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01-31-2013, 09:32 AM | #18 |
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EAS sells it
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01-31-2013, 02:00 PM | #19 |
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Using batteries with lower AH specs means less wiggle room when the battery needs to be replaced. My 08 was very unforgiving when I got to the point of needing a new battery - to the point where the car was almost undrivable. For the limited weight savings and risk of being stranded down the line - I would stick with the stock BMW battery - coding and all.
Last edited by shendrick; 01-31-2013 at 03:07 PM.. |
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01-31-2013, 02:04 PM | #20 | |
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Is the Optima Yellow or Blue top batteries AGM and compatible with BMW's?
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01-31-2013, 03:09 PM | #21 |
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01-31-2013, 03:25 PM | #22 | ||
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I recommend you get a Sears battery save $$$
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I do not daily drive my M3 and I replace my original battery after about 3yrs it went dead in Nov. 2011. I paid 300+ for a new bmw battery plus another 200+ to have it reset the total was almost $600.00 only to have the new battery start going dead again in less than a year Aug 2012. The battery would still hold a charge but if I turned the car off and left anything going such as the radio for 5 min the car would not really want to start. Took it to the Stealership they said the computer says I left the radio on. I was like WTF I don't even daily drive my M3. They charged the battery 100 %. I take a 3 hour road trip sit in the car with it off for 5 min car went dead and needed a jump Called Service Rep he said they are not going to replace under warranty because the car is saying I left the radio on I can either buy a new BMW battery (yeah right another $600.00) or a battery charger. I bought a battery charger since I don't daily drive the car, that still did not really make a difference because the battery would still go dead. If you sit in the car for 5 min or less with anything on . So I did some research on this post about the Sears battery. So I fully charged the BMW battery one last time and I went to Sears and bought a new battery and replaced it. The funny thing is I guess my car did not notice I changed the battery because it never threw a code to reset or anything I called my service rep and told him and he was like but I am happy I had no other problems ever since. I guess since I charged the Old battery just before I changed it, must be the reason the car did not notice the change or anything oh well save me some money from getting it coded at the Stealership sorry for the
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