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08-28-2013, 06:51 AM | #111 |
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I don't track often, but when I do ...
No, seriously, I don't track very often, but my pace is picking up and as I am learning more, I am starting to notice more and more how car behaves in corners. This weekend at VIR I found myself having to actually soften the car because it had some bouncing coming out of corners on throttle and straights. My initial instinct was to stiffen it up, but Tom Long suggested I soften it instead. He suspected it had too much rebound dampening. Softening it 2 clicks fixed it, but introduced slight body roll. Overall still incredibly happy with them. I do feel like they are best compromise for a DD car. But now I wish I had two-way adjustables Problem is, any two-way adjustable would ruin the street comfort, that Ohlins have. Luckily, I don't plant to track E90 all that often. Hoping to build an e46 330 for future spec e46 class.
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08-28-2013, 05:32 PM | #112 | |
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Thanks for sharing the continuous updates!
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08-28-2013, 05:49 PM | #113 | |
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08-28-2013, 08:19 PM | #114 | |
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08-29-2013, 04:49 AM | #115 |
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I had my first session on my RT's last weekend and I was impressed. Driving up to the track in comfort and within a few clicks the car was planted at every corner on the track. How does everyone choose the setup? I like the front to be a bit softer than the rear. I experienced a very neutral chassis with slight oversteer on the low speed corners. I'm in love with the Ohlins.
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09-12-2013, 04:02 AM | #116 | |
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Can't wait to get my set! Also is it highly recommended to change the sway bar end links with these Coilovers? I might as well get it done whilst the suspension is off. Aftermarket toe links too? Fark. It's a never ending spending spree! |
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09-12-2013, 12:44 PM | #117 | |
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No, the endlinks aren't required, but recommended is you plan to lower your vehicle. The adjustable links simply get the sway bar to a more ideal geometry after lowering. Toe links aren't needed, there is plenty of adjustment with the stock one. |
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10-02-2013, 11:46 AM | #120 |
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10-02-2013, 04:08 PM | #121 | |
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10-03-2013, 11:38 AM | #122 | |
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All of the 1M/M3's we did at the shop all left with the toe still in the middle of the adjustment range with plenty of adjustments to go in either direction. Your camber settings will also have some affect on how much toe adjustment you are left with. |
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03-08-2014, 02:57 PM | #123 |
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The Ohlins made in Japan , were strickly for thier Motorcycle and snowmobile division by Yamaha I understand that they purchased Ohlins. I'm under the impression its back in the hands of the Sweds..not entirely certain but heard they had some quality issues. Ive been using ohlins for the last 20yrs on my bikes and sleds and have absolutely nothing negative to say...incredible product and craftsmanship...IMO no other is comparible for the money. With respects to thier automotive division, I'm certain Yamaha had nothing to do with and has always resided in Sweden. Note: don't quote me on all my info...regardless, incredible product !
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03-14-2014, 08:48 PM | #124 | |
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All the engineers and technical staff I have met at Ohlins booth at SEMA are all based in Sweden with the exception of the US staff. And containers of automotive dampers are shipped from Swede, NOT Japan. |
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03-14-2014, 11:10 PM | #125 | |
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Totally agree with ya on the automotive side of things....however, when I was racing for Yamaha yrs ago I'm fairly certain Yamaha was the majority owner and may or may not have been manufacturing strictly for motorsports division. "1987 Yamaha Motor Europe N.V. became the majority owner of Ohlins Racing AB"
Automotive I can't comment on. However, despite the semantics..incredible product on my bikes and snowmobiles and now I'm really looking forward to trying them out on my M3... Cheers mate Quote:
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03-16-2014, 12:42 PM | #126 |
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Anyone have a good starting point for the clickers at Chuckwalla? This is only my 3rd track day with the M and first with the Ohlins so I'm not sure where to start..
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03-17-2014, 01:35 AM | #127 |
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03-17-2014, 02:35 AM | #128 |
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i believe the R&T adjustments are meant to be set from HARD to SOFT. ie turn clockwise all the way (FULL HARD, setting = 0)
From there turn counter clockwise number of clicks to get your desired setting recommended setup: Track 0-7 clicks Winding road 5-10 clicks Street 10-20 clicks http://www.roadandtrackbyohlins.com/...MI_BMSMI40.pdf
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03-17-2014, 03:16 AM | #129 |
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5 clicks from full hard.
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03-17-2014, 02:20 PM | #130 | |
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03-18-2014, 11:33 AM | #131 |
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Damper settings are referred to as clicks from closed (full hard). While I'm at it I should also add never run with valving fully closed, always back off at least one click.
Last edited by Yaw; 03-18-2014 at 11:47 AM.. |
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04-16-2014, 12:58 AM | #132 | |
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replacing my kw sleeve for Ohlins soon just want to make sure.
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