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KEEP M3POST ALIVE BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER LINK! |
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04-19-2012, 05:48 PM | #1 |
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Correct wheel lug nut torque specs
It's 90 lbs correct? I cannot find it in the manual. 90 lbs is pretty common.
The reason I ask is because I am trying to loosen up the nuts to get the wheels off the car and I have the torque wrench set to 100 lbs and nothing is budging. I had the car serviced at BMW recently and I'm wondering if they just put the wheels on the car and used an impact wrench to tighten all my lugs???? I mean... WTF. Can't people just use a goddamn torque wrench anymore???? Frustrated because I really don't want to snap a bolt here. Ffffffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu |
04-19-2012, 06:00 PM | #3 |
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Yep--it's 88.5 ft-lbs or 120 N-m of torque. Unfortunately, a very common occurrence for techs to just gorilla the lugs back on using the air gun. Not only is it a pain to get them back off when needed, but overtorquing can also strip the lugs and warp your rotors.
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04-19-2012, 06:01 PM | #4 |
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Seriously these things aren't budging!!! I really really really really don't want to end up snapping anything. I've got the wrench set to 110 lbs now and I'm literally moving the whole car now...
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04-19-2012, 06:03 PM | #7 |
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04-19-2012, 07:02 PM | #9 |
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It is in the manual. Anyway, I would use a breaker bar. It's not ideal to use a torque wrench for unbolting, you could easily damage the mechanisms inside.
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04-19-2012, 07:41 PM | #10 | ||
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Either way torquing and re-torquing should be just like checking tire pressure..oil or any other routine car maintanance. 90 ftlbs,,, your good. |
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04-19-2012, 07:51 PM | #11 | |
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04-19-2012, 08:53 PM | #12 | |
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Anyway... I just went and bought a breaker bar as I didn't want to screw up my torque wrench. The front wheels came off without problem... the rears are a different story.. |
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04-19-2012, 08:56 PM | #13 |
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I've got a breaker bar that is nearly a metre long, no bolt I can't un-torque.
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04-19-2012, 09:03 PM | #14 |
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When you do get them off, you should get a new set of lugs. Also even if your t-wrench is reversible, torque settings don't work (and wouldn't benefit you anyway) loosening a bolt.
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04-19-2012, 09:05 PM | #15 | |
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And I would also add that when you re-torque your bolts every so often.. that you break them all loose first and then torque them to spec..this will give the most correct reading |
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04-19-2012, 09:12 PM | #16 |
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04-20-2012, 12:32 AM | #17 | |
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Whenever I or anyone else removes one of my wheels, I drive a bit, then tighten up to 72 foot-pounds*. The next day, I bump them up to 75 foot-pounds. A week later, I might check it to see if any have loosened substantially. * The dealer always torques to factory spec, which is like 50 foot-pounds on my A4. Since I'm lowered & on spacers half the year, I usually run 75 or 80. |
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04-20-2012, 12:43 AM | #18 | |
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The torque settings will be affected when the wheel hub heats and expands then cools and contracts this is why the need to check them I would set torque higher since you are lowered and spacered..85ft-lbs is good.. |
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04-20-2012, 02:31 AM | #19 | |
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04-20-2012, 08:58 AM | #20 |
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I re-torqued to 90lbs. The bolts all look good. I'm used to lug nuts. These are like P car style bolts. I wonder if one has advantages over the other?
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04-21-2012, 12:05 AM | #22 |
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Nah, I like the current setup. Maybe if I go with an aftermarket Brembo setup or something.
I got all the bolts out without issue. All torqued up correctly now. |
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