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      10-28-2009, 01:44 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Note: this recommendation only applies to the standard, HiFi OEM system. No SWS-8 cannot be driven by the optional Premium Enhanced Audio OEM amp system.
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Originally Posted by Technic View Post
No, replace the OEM woofers with a pair of SWS-8 and add a dedicated stereo amp just to drive the SWS-8.
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Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
I'd still do the 4.150 bridged to the 4 ohm subs. Simply because it's more power and more flexible when you decide to expand later. And IME, you will want to upgrade later.
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Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
No, in either case you'd be replacing the woofers.
Thanks for the very useful info guys!
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      10-28-2009, 02:42 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doba_s View Post
so, what is the verdict ? 2 ohm or 4 ohm ?
I already answered that and with mos things audio, it depends. You need to deicdeo n the amp and then you'll know whether you need the 2 or 4 Ohm subs.
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      10-28-2009, 03:10 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonigsTiger View Post
What do you suggest the subs should be and what amp? Brand and all if possible. Thanks for the info.
The Earthquake SWS-8 is as close to a drop-in as you're going to find but with some work almost any 8 will fit. I've seena Morel 9 in a custom enclsure under the seat as well. Just depends on how much you want to put into it. Amp is up to you. Just make sure you have enough power for your listening habits.

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Originally Posted by frankzlin79 View Post
What is the frequency response of the SWS 8XI sub? Can it go down to 20 hz?
I haven't looked but I can't think of an 8, except possibly the 8W7, that will play 20Hz with any kind of authority. But that's not really a concern. The impression of volume comes from the midbass region. That's why most OEM systems sound like they have a lot of bass, albeit sloppy, even though they don't have much extension. Plus, 95% of music won't go much under 40Hz anyway.
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      10-28-2009, 05:42 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badfish View Post
I know the impedance is less than half the original sub. But has anyone actually tried? Just curious...

The verdict is 2 ohm AFAIC. With Technic's warning, you cannot use the OEM amp on Premium sound systems so you must get an aftermarket amp. With non-premium, you can get more power using a 2 ohm sub. If you go aftermarket, you still have a variety wiring configurations as a 2 ohm pair is flexible for almost any amp.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=20
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=43

For the standard HiFi system in the M3, the 2 ohms SWS-8 are the only version that can be driven by the OEM amp as the OEM woofer is also 2 ohms. Using a 4 ohms SWS-8 in the HiFi system will give you less bass than even the OEM woofers as power will be reduced almost in half...

In the Premium system, the aftermarket amp that you must get determines what SWS-8 version you should get.
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      10-28-2009, 12:45 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
In the Premium system, the aftermarket amp that you must get determines what SWS-8 version you should get.
So if I get the Rockford Fosgate P300-2, then I should get two SWS 8XI (2 ohm), correct?
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      10-28-2009, 01:38 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankzlin79 View Post
So if I get the Rockford Fosgate P300-2, then I should get two SWS 8XI (2 ohm), correct?
That's my setup, and it works perfect!
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      10-28-2009, 01:47 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankzlin79 View Post
So if I get the Rockford Fosgate P300-2, then I should get two SWS 8XI (2 ohm), correct?
Yes, that's exactly what you should get.
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      10-28-2009, 02:16 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by MentholGuy View Post
That's my setup, and it works perfect!
Anything else I need, besides an amp power kit and speaker wire? What's this about a line out convertor (LOC)? I want to make sure I have all the parts available so my stereo shop can install it with ease.
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      10-28-2009, 02:34 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankzlin79 View Post
Anything else I need, besides an amp power kit and speaker wire? What's this about a line out convertor (LOC)? I want to make sure I have all the parts available so my stereo shop can install it with ease.
Got my custom build 40V max input possive LOC from www.davidnavone.com as Technic suggested, it was $50 shipped.
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      10-28-2009, 02:37 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MentholGuy View Post
That's my setup, and it works perfect!
any reason y you chose the rockfords over the alpine 4.150? and what type of music do u listen to in the car mostly? TIA!
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      10-28-2009, 02:54 PM   #55
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MentholGuy: What does the LOC connect to on both ends?

And can you describe exactly what I need to order the same part you did from davidavone? How many channels do I need? Would this work:
http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?14&pid=155
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      10-28-2009, 02:56 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_dot View Post
any reason y you chose the rockfords over the alpine 4.150? and what type of music do u listen to in the car mostly? TIA!
No special reason but the price, I got it for special sale price which was $136.18 shipped from amazon
I listen Hip-Hop/Jazz/R&B mostly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by frankzlin79 View Post
MentholGuy: What does the LOC connect to on both ends?

And can you describe exactly what I need to order the same part you did from davidavone? How many channels do I need? Would this work:
http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?14&pid=155
You should email to Dave (dnavone@davidnavone.com),
And this is what I asked - High Level LOC, 2-channel, 40V max input possive.
All wires comes with tag attached, so when you get it, you should know which wire goes where.
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      10-28-2009, 06:24 PM   #57
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The Alpine 4.150 is a nice amp, but also about 2.5x more expensive than the Rockford Fosgate P300-2. I like MentholGuy, am looking for a budget system.
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      10-28-2009, 06:41 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankzlin79 View Post
The Alpine 4.150 is a nice amp, but also about 2.5x more expensive than the Rockford Fosgate P300-2. I like MentholGuy, am looking for a budget system.
I think that that RF 300-2 amp specs are excellent for the price... the real test is how sturdy and reliable is.

The PDX amps are also great, but their quality sometimes does not match the price asked for them.
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      10-29-2009, 03:25 AM   #59
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Guys, instead of worrying about all the bits and pieces and buying before you have a shop install it, take this bit of advice from someone that spent many years in mobile electronics. If your'e going to have a shop do the work, support them by buying your gear from them. You might spend more money but I guarantee you you'll get better service during and after the sale. My shop had a standing 50% rule, we would not install gear someone brought in unless at least half of the gear was bought in our store. Installation is at best a break even service and if the bay is tied up doing installs of outside gear then the shop is losing out on sales for people that will buy from us.

So please, if you're not going to do the install yourself, buy from the shop you're having do the install. You're already driving a $60K car, don't go getting all cheap now.
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      10-30-2009, 05:07 PM   #60
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I think this is why all the questions are being asked here, so people can DIY it ...

I personally don't trust some random shops, and it is very hard to find a good one near your ...
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      10-31-2009, 01:11 AM   #61
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I understand wanting to DIY and that's cool but Franklin wanted a list of parts to buy and take to a shop to have them install it. IMO that's a foul. If you want a shop to do the work though, you should buy their product.

It's like hiring someone to build your house with parts you bring them or asking BMW to build you a car with parts you scrape together. Installation is a service provided to the existing customers, not a money maker used to sell product.
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      10-31-2009, 07:35 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
I understand wanting to DIY and that's cool but Franklin wanted a list of parts to buy and take to a shop to have them install it. IMO that's a foul. If you want a shop to do the work though, you should buy their product.

It's like hiring someone to build your house with parts you bring them or asking BMW to build you a car with parts you scrape together. Installation is a service provided to the existing customers, not a money maker used to sell product.
The audio shop have the prerrogative of refusing to install parts bought somewhere else. The same prerrogative that a customer has of buying parts somewhere else and looking to another place for installation.

It's only fair in an open economy.

I don't see anything wrong with only paying installation costs at an audio shop. Sheesh, if I'm building a house I would do the same and if a builder does not like it then there will be 10 builders that will. If they want me to pay for the parts then they should have them cheaper than somewhere else.
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      10-31-2009, 08:07 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
The audio shop have the prerrogative of refusing to install parts bought somewhere else. The same prerrogative that a customer has of buying parts somewhere else and looking to another place for installation.

It's only fair in an open economy.

I don't see anything wrong with only paying installation costs at an audio shop. Sheesh, if I'm building a house I would do the same and if a builder does not like it then there will be 10 builders that will. If they want me to pay for the parts then they should have them cheaper than somewhere else.
+1. No one is forcing the shop to do the install. Its not like they're doing it for free. Also, these shops sometimes charge more for installing parts not bought from their shop. And if they want to do that, that's fair.
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      10-31-2009, 11:22 PM   #64
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Yep the local shops here get kind of disappointed when you tell them you're going to buy parts off the internet. But then you just need to tell them that its OK to charge more, then their face light up again. Labor is labor.
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      11-01-2009, 05:46 AM   #65
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Yes labor is labor. Have any of you worked in car audio before? If all you did was installs you'd be out of business in a year at most. Installation barely covers the cost of providing the service and contributes in no way to the profitability of the shop, even at high end shops that build $20-50K cars like mine.
B&Ms cost more because they have more overhead, it's a fact. But what you're also getting are the intangibles like after sale care, OTC swaps on gear that has gone bad or you destroyed under warranty. If your internet gear dies on you a couple of moneths later what happens? You want the shop to fix it. Now if you're lucky they didn't tell you to kick rocks and they're tying up MORE shop space and losing money on gear you didn't buy there.

You don'y take your own food to a restaurant for them to prepare even though you can buy it at the supermarket cheaper do you? Same thing here. They can't compete on price alone and it's silly to expect them too.
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      11-01-2009, 06:31 AM   #66
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this thread has strayed off topic . . . .
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