Initial Bilstein Clubsport Suspension review

[dickchow]

I thought 4200 isn't a bad deal for the club sport, but knowing some people here getting it for 3200 from Autozone makes me really jelly...=(

How would you guys compare this to the KW Clubsport? I had the KW on my e46 and it is pretty good, just a bit soft and the adjustment doesn't make that much difference to me.

[ashtaron14]

Got them installed today. Left all the Rebound and Compression at 3 to run them in. The ride has firmed up, kind of like leaving the EDC at Sport. The car is firm but not crashy or jumpy. There's more feedback of the road coming though the steering wheel.

This is my first set of new coilovers ever, so all these sensation is new to me.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by dickchow

I thought 4200 isn't a bad deal for the club sport, but knowing some people here getting it for 3200 from Autozone makes me really jelly...=(

How would you guys compare this to the KW Clubsport? I had the KW on my e46 and it is pretty good, just a bit soft and the adjustment doesn't make that much difference to me.

I'm pretty sure the Bilstein is better than the KW CS

The 3200 price was a mistake in their system, so don't feel bad

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Change of plans

The B CS was ordered and arrived yesterday, but I couldn't stop thinking that I want the 3WR on my primary track car instead of the 2WNR and that I was blowing the chance to do that swap.

So... I returned the B CS yesterday night and will be ordering the 3WR today.


Either option was compromised, because although I definitely want the B CS for the secondary track car as that one sees more street time, at the same time I want the 3WR on the track car that sees 40 days a year.

Had I thought of all this at the beginning, the secondary car would have the B CS and the primary would have the 3WR, but as I already have the 2WNR that will go to the secondary car.

Sorry for messing up your thread Mvez

Have you considered upgrading your 2WNRs to 3WRs? I guess it's too late since you sent back the awesomely-priced B CS suspension. Now you'd have to buy a 2nd suspension at full price for your street e90.

2WNRs are fine on the street - I was running them on my F82 M4 for 1.5 years before upgrading to 2WRs.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Have you considered upgrading your 2WNRs to 3WRs? I guess it's too late since you sent back the awesomely-priced B CS suspension. Now you'd have to buy a 2nd suspension at full price for your street e90.

2WNRs are fine on the street - I was running them on my F82 M4 for 1.5 years before upgrading to 2WRs.

In the end what I did is bought a new set of 3WR for the E90 (primary track car) and moved the 2WNR to the E92 (secondary track car).

The JRZs will be sold.

[JsL]

Browsing around and found it on sale for $3526 + $100 shipping here

Don't know if that's a "good" price, but just passing that info along.

[aus]

Great thread!

But how are you getting GT3 and GT3RS from Porsche???
In Cali, you have to have a VERY good relationship with the dealer to get them at MRSP, and even then, you won't get a GT3 until the end of the production cycle. Forget about an RS. It's unobtainium.

.

[cliverman]

BILSTEIN CLUBSPORT and EDC? Anything else to buy, EDC delete module?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...lation-module/

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by cliverman

BILSTEIN CLUBSPORT and EDC? Anything else to buy, EDC delete module?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...lation-module/

you can just code the EDC off vs installing the module

[cliverman]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

you can just code the EDC off vs installing the module

Cool. Thanks.

[cliverman]

$3500 for Bilstein or $2K for KWs. JRZ $4K......tough call.
I sincerely appreciate this review. My "resource" coordinator may not.

[Mvez]

Originally Posted by cliverman

$3500 for Bilstein or $2K for KWs. JRZ $4K......tough call.
I sincerely appreciate this review. My "resource" coordinator may not.

KW not even in same league as Bilstein, and the JRZ will need rebuild soon and be rattle cans if you drive on the street very much. The Bilstein has race performance that can be driven, reliably on the street.

Really depends on what you want. The other day a buddy asked me what he should get since he's only driving on the street, and he knew I had Bilstein clubsport. I told him 100% get Ohlins R&T....but if you track a little, and drive mostly on the street, then probably Ohlins R&T with stiffer springs. If you track and want the best track performance, but still able to drive on the street, then 100% Bilstein clubsport. If you have a race-car, Bilstein clubsports are still be a great option.

If you only have 2K to spend, you would be crazy to buy KW over Ohlins, but the Bilsteins are worth the stretch. IMO, they are a better value because they can handle full race spring rates, but still offer very civil manners on street. Ohlins offer great manners on street, but can't really handle full-track spring rates and need to be re-valved. By the time you add springs and re-valve, you could have had Bilsteins.

[Mvez]

Just got back from another weekend at NCM. So year-end setup pretty much remains the same. Shocks remain bullet-proof, with outstanding handling, and fade free performance for entire sessions, which is great when wheeling around 3500lbs. Just as before, one click of Comp/Reb was all that was needed to dial the car in from the previous track.

Shocks: Front - C4/R6, Rear - C5/R8
Springs: 600# F, 800# R
Camber: -3.2F, -2R
Toe: 0 deg toe front, .05 deg rear each side
Tires: 265-35-18 F, 265-40-18 R (Trofeo-R's)
Swaybars: (hotchkis) F- 2 of 4 (soft middle), R- 3 of 3 (full stiff)

I like the car with some chassis rake, and the taller rear tire (although still a square width setup) gives the rear some progressiveness to manage the additional rotation the rake gives you. The car gets into a corner really, really well. Tire wear and temps are virtually identical at all corners, so side to side tire rotating is all that I even do.

At this point, the only thing I want is for the car to put power down better. I think a high quality LSD is the final step.

[///Mobbin]

Good info here, thanks for sharing!

Curious if you added the sway bars after the suspension or at the same time? I have MCS 2WNR's right now on OE sways and tempted to go F/R sways but that means I am lowering the rear subframe and may as well do a number of bushings at the same time if I go that route, turns into a costly project at that point.

[Mvez]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Good info here, thanks for sharing!

Curious if you added the sway bars after the suspension or at the same time? I have MCS 2WNR's right now on OE sways and tempted to go F/R sways but that means I am lowering the rear subframe and may as well do a number of bushings at the same time if I go that route, turns into a costly project at that point.

Did it all at one. You absolutely want swaybars, including the rear swaybar. You are doing yourself a big disservice by not having swaybar adjustability at the rear of the car. It needs it, plain and simple, and allows you stiffen the rear up without using 1000lb springs and overstressing the spring and suspension mounting points. Even if you run 1000lb springs, you still want rear sway adjustability. Here are my thoughts, based on both E46 and E92, before and after subframe bushings.

If you have stock subframe bushings, it's a little easier to get away without installing a rear sway, because the flex in your subframe actually prevents your suspension from doing it's job, effectively increasing rear spring rate. When you add solid subframe bushings, the rear of the car actually becomes more compliant (soft) because now the suspension is able to fully do it's job, so on both my E46 and E92, after installing solid subframe bushings, I needed to stiffen the rear bar just to get the car back to more neutral handling, or where the handling was previously.

I have 600/800 springs and run my bars on softer middle front, full stiff rear, on a square tire setup, and my car is by no means loose. It handles how it should be, very neutral. If I had a stock rear bar the car would be shit, IMO, and I would have to try and use other methods to free up the rear of the car. If I went to 900-1000lb rear springs, then maybe I would back down the rear bar, but I like this setup exactly how it is. This lets me have quick adjustability of the rear, at the track, instead of having to swap springs at the rear.

It's not cheap, but is worth every penny. Do the bars and solid subframe bushings, along with purple diff bushings.

[DR-JEKL]

Bump

Are the bilstein CS still performing well for you Mvez

[Visceral]

I sure wish these were available

[Bon F80]

great thread from Mvez and everyone contributed.

too bad, at least in this bimmerpost, Bilstein Clubsport seems to be not very popular.

anyone is using / has use it on the F8x chassis? i'm considering it so would appreciate if u can share ur comments too:

1) spring rates used (std F: 572lbs & R: 800lbs)
2) wheel and tire size used
3) any shock to wheel clearance issue?
4) how low can u go from stock height?
5) track behavior
6) street behavior

[JsL]

Originally Posted by JsL

Browsing around and found it on sale for $3526 + $100 shipping here

Don't know if that's a "good" price, but just passing that info along.

It's back on their site for $4k + ~$100 shipping. Link

[Visceral]

Originally Posted by JsL

It's back on their site for $4k + ~$100 shipping. Link

I'd be really interested to see if they could actually get their hands on a set. No one else has been able to.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by Mvez

I have 600/800 springs and run my bars on softer middle front, full stiff rear, on a square tire setup, and my car is by no means loose. It handles how it should be, very neutral. If I had a stock rear bar the car would be shit, IMO, and I would have to try and use other methods to free up the rear of the car. If I went to 900-1000lb rear springs, then maybe I would back down the rear bar, but I like this setup exactly how it is. This lets me have quick adjustability of the rear, at the track, instead of having to swap springs at the rear.

Very interesting.
I am in solid Rogue rear bushings

I have to say that i came to almost to the same results:
With 900 rear spring, I backed out the Hotchkis to the soft position.
So if you are running 800, I am about 12.5% stiffer. Running the Hotchkis on soft 1 of 3 , and you are on last 3 of 3 you are 22.8 stiffer than I am.

So roughly speaking about 10% diff.

if i get the rear back to the middle hole, we will be roughly same stiffness.

My front is on 750 and Hotchkis on second from softest as well.

[aus]

Can you pick your spring rates? I see a set for sale here and the owner said it's too stuff for daily driving.
Was looking for anymore feedback.