DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

[sswang01]

How can I gauge if I need to replace the entire unit or just the gears?
I have a 2011 M3 with 40k. Drives perfect but every once in a while when I go WOT, the car goes into limp mode. This happens about once week over the past month or so. Not getting any better, not getting any worse. If I drive normally, there is never an issue.

When the issue occurs, the car goes into limp mode and shows: Service engine soon, the half engine sign, BRAKE, and DSC light. The OBC shows DSC malfunction.
My code scanner shows: U118 and P154E (Throttle-valve monitoring, bank 1)
Once I restart the car, it goes back to normal.

I have read a few threads about this issue and it seems like some people go into limp mode much more frequently. Is it safe to assume that my gears are on their way out? Would I likely be ok just replacing the gears or buying an entirely new unit?
Is it safe to assume the circuit board is ok since I don't have codes: 2B15 (Throttle valve actuator), 2B57 - (Limp mode active), 5E19 (DSC-DME communication)

[d-bone]

I replaced both throttle actuators this past weekend. Before the work, the only codes I had were for both actuators. Now after I put everything back together and started the car, it immediately goes into limp mode, and throws the code:
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit High Input

italyix, it looks like you had this problem also, and was due to a missed connector...

Originally Posted by italyix

A word of caution though, MAKE SURE YOU RECONNECT ALL SENSORS!!! I missed the connector which was just below the harness, between the two TPS modules and drove the car in limp mode for a whole day. It sucked and right when I thought I was sold a defective unit, I popped the plenum off and saw the connector unclipped...after connecting it car was happy.

Can you (or anyone else!) describe what connector you missed, what it looked like, or point to where exactly it was? Or show a picture of what the TPS modules look like so that I can follow the wiring from them to the connectors?
Thanks!

[Ab28]

Originally Posted by sswang01

How can I gauge if I need to replace the entire unit or just the gears?
I have a 2011 M3 with 40k. Drives perfect but every once in a while when I go WOT, the car goes into limp mode. This happens about once week over the past month or so. Not getting any better, not getting any worse. If I drive normally, there is never an issue.

When the issue occurs, the car goes into limp mode and shows: Service engine soon, the half engine sign, BRAKE, and DSC light. The OBC shows DSC malfunction.
My code scanner shows: U118 and P154E (Throttle-valve monitoring, bank 1)
Once I restart the car, it goes back to normal.

I have read a few threads about this issue and it seems like some people go into limp mode much more frequently. Is it safe to assume that my gears are on their way out? Would I likely be ok just replacing the gears or buying an entirely new unit?
Is it safe to assume the circuit board is ok since I don't have codes: 2B15 (Throttle valve actuator), 2B57 - (Limp mode active), 5E19 (DSC-DME communication)

Just replaced both of mine this past week.

Bought the rebuild kit from FCP at first, then the gear snapped. Got the limp mode and all 4 warnings on iDrive (again).

Bought 2 replacements, installed, first time I fired her up all was good. If you've spent any time analyzing the internals and more specifically how the rod is almost one piece with the gear, it's something I'd recommend replacing entirely.

You located in Westchester NY?

My '08 also has just 40k miles on it.

[Ra_]

Just replaced both TAs recently. Following the instructions on this thread, and the videos on youtube made the project a cinch. Replaced the Fuel Breather valve also (symptoms were rough idle intermediately after refuel).

Got my TAs from http://www.rebuild.org.uk/ . Amazing customer service, and lightning fast delivery from the UK. I placed my order Thursday morning EST, and received it the next day. They offer a core exchange service which is very convenient, or you can send in your TAs for refurbishment. Received my core exchange refund hours after delivery.
Car has been running fantastic after the swap.

Much credit to Jason at rebuild.org.uk. Highly recommended.

[TShirt604]

Exact same experience as previous poster (re: Jason @ rebuild.org.uk).

• Super fast shipping
• Jason is awesome / super nice
• Couldn't be happier with the service / results

There is zero point in replacing just one throttle actuator. As soon as you confirm your CEL is related to this issue, just order two rebuilt units. Due to uncontrollable circumstances, I originally only replaced the one faulty unit. Less than a few months later, the other unit failed.

I think the rebuilt units make more sense than new units:

Rebuilt Throttle Actuators

• Rebuilt units actually fix the problem. If you purchase new units you are just punishing yourself or a future owner (as the units will fail again)
• I think it is good to support people/companies that offer a service that genuinely solves a known issue
• Price :-)

The difficulty of this job really depends on the tools that you have. If you have the right tools (appropriate extensions, etc.) this is job is by no means difficult. If you try to do this job without the right tools, it will be difficult and frustrating.

A big thanks to the OP, all of the other contributors on this thread, and Jason @ rebuild.org.uk. Without this, I would have been stuck with a very expensive repair bill, and I would have passed a ticking-time bomb onto the next owner.

[matte]

My rebuilt failed quickly. Bought new

[DreamTime]

W/// - great write up man!! You should expect a phone call from me once it is time for me to do this on my car lol... Don't worry, I'll do all the work, I just like having smart friends around when I'm doing stuff like this. I'll provide the beer

[dreamspeed]

Buy two new from FCP euro and if/when they break again get them replaced for free

[W///]

Originally Posted by DreamTime

W/// - great write up man!! You should expect a phone call from me once it is time for me to do this on my car lol... Don't worry, I'll do all the work, I just like having smart friends around when I'm doing stuff like this. I'll provide the beer

Done deal! I've done this so many times, we'd be able to knock it out in a few hours

Originally Posted by dreamspeed

Buy two new from FCP euro and if/when they break again get them replaced for free

That's the way to go IMO, especially if you plan to keep the car for a long time.

[M3MPH1S]

Just did this yesterday, opted to buy 2 new ones (FCPEuro) for peace of mind. This DIY was super helpful, only took me about an hour and a half but I've had a good bit of experience taking the plenum and harness off several times before for starter and valve cover jobs. Opened up the failing actuator to take a peek at the gears and board, and as expected there was significant wear on the gear teeth. The board looks to be free of burn marks around the pins of the transistors, but I can't tell if the dark spots on the top left are natural or not (they seem to be). There were 133k miles on the old TAs.

Flickr link for high res pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/150824...h/25470775587/


Resized pics below

[mharris2007]

Originally Posted by M3MPH1S

Just did this yesterday, opted to buy 2 new ones (FCPEuro) for peace of mind. This DIY was super helpful, only took me about an hour and a half but I've had a good bit of experience taking the plenum and harness off several times before for starter and valve cover jobs. Opened up the failing actuator to take a peek at the gears and board, and as expected there was significant wear on the gear teeth. The board looks to be free of burn marks around the pins of the transistors, but I can't tell if the dark spots on the top left are natural or not (they seem to be). There were 133k miles on the old TAs.

Flickr link for high res pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/150824...h/25470775587/


Resized pics below

Dude, 133k miles, you’re winning!!

[M3MPH1S]

Originally Posted by mharris2007

Dude, 133k miles, you’re winning!!

Haha yeah, probably helps that I do a lot of highway miles

[MGDickey]

I just replaced the gears in both actuators. $225 down the drain. Don't bother with gears since it seems the electrical takes a beating as the factory gears wear down.

I'm now sending both my actuators with new gears to Jason in the UK for a full rebuild.

[mharris2007]

Originally Posted by MGDickey

I just replaced the gears in both actuators. $225 down the drain. Don't bother with gears since it seems the electrical takes a beating as the factory gears wear down.

I'm now sending both my actuators with new gears to Jason in the UK for a full rebuild.

I agree. Doesn't seem to be a long term solution. When I changed the gears in my good actuator only made it last another 15000 miles. Maybe it would have lasted that long on its own. Who knows. Just replace with a new one is your safest bet.

[JP10]

Yesterday I removed my throttle actuators because of an error code I was getting for bank 2. Upon getting in there It seemed like bank 1 had already been refurbished at least. There was sealing paint on it as well as some dates, and BMW written on it. If this is taken to a BMW dealership would they ever just refurbish the unit? I figured they would just end up replacing it with a new one, but wasn't sure.

I am planning on getting these refurbished by Jason at rebuild. I did see on his FAQ page that in some scenarios he will just refurbish 1 of the 2 actuators. Planning on emailing him to ask if he would check my bank 1 actuator to see if it is functional, and just get partially refunded on it. Obviously would still like to replace bank 1 if it is showing signs of wear.

Any opinions on this would be appreciated.

[kikkoman]

Just joined the forum after picking up 2010 E92 last night. On the first drive home after buying the car it went into limp mode and got home to find code code P2100 (2B15). The seller did disclosed this recently happened but went away and discounted the asking price appropriately but I didn't really anticipate this coming up on my first drive home.

From all the research so far this is TVA bank 1 (passenger side) issue. I'm just about to order two from FCP Euro to replace them myself but I'm not clear if the car needs to be reprogrammed afterwards or just reset the code. Can someone please confirm? TIA.

[Shredicus]

Originally Posted by kikkoman

Just joined the forum after picking up 2010 E92 last night. On the first drive home after buying the car it went into limp mode and got home to find code code P2100 (2B15). The seller did disclosed this recently happened but went away and discounted the asking price appropriately but I didn't really anticipate this coming up on my first drive home.

From all the research so far this is TVA bank 1 (passenger side) issue. I'm just about to order two from FCP Euro to replace them myself but I'm not clear if the car needs to be reprogrammed afterwards or just reset the code. Can someone please confirm? TIA.

Reset codes and you are good

[M3MPH1S]

Originally Posted by kikkoman

Just joined the forum after picking up 2010 E92 last night. On the first drive home after buying the car it went into limp mode and got home to find code code P2100 (2B15). The seller did disclosed this recently happened but went away and discounted the asking price appropriately but I didn't really anticipate this coming up on my first drive home.

From all the research so far this is TVA bank 1 (passenger side) issue. I'm just about to order two from FCP Euro to replace them myself but I'm not clear if the car needs to be reprogrammed afterwards or just reset the code. Can someone please confirm? TIA.

As the other guy said, no coding required. Just FYI though, the new TA's have a sticker on the packaging that mentions something about coding, so just ignore it.

[The Father]

FcpEuro has:

OEM BMW TVA for $580
VDO Siemens TVA for $500

I imagine BMW is now using a cheaper vendor and that VDO was the OG OEM.

My car has just over 100k.

Any reason not to get the significantly cheaper VDO part?

[kikkoman]

Originally Posted by The Father

FcpEuro has:

OEM BMW TVA for $580
VDO Siemens TVA for $500

I imagine BMW is now using a cheaper vendor and that VDO was the OG OEM.

My car has just over 100k.

Any reason not to get the significantly cheaper VDO part?

Just got done doing both on my car last night. I ordered the parts from FCP Euro after confirming with them that both are actually same just branded differently so I ordered the cheaper VDO. It took me about 5 hr total still not finished will also be replacing the spark plugs tomorrow morning before putting everything together.

The hardest part was some of the what I thought was the easy parts like disconnecting the rear hose. Be very careful not to strip the torx bolts attached to the actuators as I don’t know how you’ll be able to take it out if one does.

[The Father]

I'm ordering the parts tomorrow. I've got a couple indy places that give discounts through my Autocross club, so I'm going to get a couple quotes. If any are reasonable, I'll just use them.

I've got a bad lower back, so I'm probably more willing than many to have someone else do it. Most of the work is done leaning way over...ouch!!!

Talked my brother in-law in to helping this weekend. So my plan is for Friday after work: get the air box out and the plenum off in prep for Sat. So I can spray the TVA bolts with penetrating oil the night before.

I watched many YouTube videos.....and they leave a lot to be desired. Nobody films the actual work or process. They talk about it, then skip to the next step. I guess at least they are trying to help.

I'll get plugs too.

[M3MPH1S]

Originally Posted by The Father

I'm ordering the parts tomorrow. I've got a couple indy places that give discounts through my Autocross club, so I'm going to get a couple quotes. If any are reasonable, I'll just use them.

I've got a bad lower back, so I'm probably more willing than many to have someone else do it. Most of the work is done leaning way over...ouch!!!

Talked my brother in-law in to helping this weekend. So my plan is for Friday after work: get the air box out and the plenum off in prep for Sat. So I can spray the TVA bolts with penetrating oil the night before.

I watched many YouTube videos.....and they leave a lot to be desired. Nobody films the actual work or process. They talk about it, then skip to the next step. I guess at least they are trying to help.

I'll get plugs too.

I was a little worried about the lack of detail for the actual replacement steps, but once you get in there and see for yourself it's pretty self explanatory. The bolts are in plain sight and there's nothing tricky going on with how they're mounted. And ymmv, but my bolts were in very good shape and came loose perfectly fine, and mine had 130k+ miles on them.