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      07-19-2016, 08:53 PM   #573
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How many miles have you driven since you first saw this problem?
Also my actuator housings had the manufacture date sticker on them, so you should be able to pull them off the car if you wanna know if they have been replaced. I am betting they have though. If not, that is probably a new record. Highest I heard of them lasting is around 90k
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      07-20-2016, 06:03 AM   #574
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My actuators had 103,000 miles on them without throwing a code. I replaced the gears. Will see how long they last. But I do plan to have some 'critical spares' on hand.
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      07-20-2016, 10:03 PM   #575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrust View Post
My actuators had 103,000 miles on them without throwing a code. I replaced the gears. Will see how long they last. But I do plan to have some 'critical spares' on hand.
Oh wow that's pretty high mileage. Did you do anything special for the actuators? Maybe clean or lube the linkages?
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      07-21-2016, 08:13 AM   #576
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Not really, just followed the DIY. Had some issues with Odometer Gear replacement. But managed to get everything working. Also replaced fuel pressure relief valve as I was getting an erratic idle after fill up. There is a DIY on that. That DIY has a very detailed section on removing the plenum.
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      07-21-2016, 01:51 PM   #577
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Repair failed x 2.
08, m3 38k miles on it.

threw codes when I hit a bump

Pulled actuators, (even good one had shavings)
-bought the Bross gear set on Amazon,
-one wheel broke trying to drill
-also couldn't find a bit to drill staff. Bought a specific metal bit as well. We put it in without the pin, and then stripped the bolt trying to wind the washer down. Pissed.

Sent both units to Jason at Rebuild in the UK.. not fixed.. $800cad later.. though he replaced gears (believe he uses odometer gears) and mofsets. The one unit still throws the code. He says he can do some extra work on the board, I just have to spend 8hrs taking it apart and putting it back together, and be without car for a 1 to 2 weeks.

Wish there was a source for a board.

I borrowed tools/set to do the install/removal. Anyone recommend a set of tools I should buy myself to work on this M.
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      07-21-2016, 02:37 PM   #578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matte View Post
Repair failed x 2.
08, m3 38k miles on it.

threw codes when I hit a bump

Pulled actuators, (even good one had shavings)
-bought the Bross gear set on Amazon,
-one wheel broke trying to drill
-also couldn't find a bit to drill staff. Bought a specific metal bit as well. We put it in without the pin, and then stripped the bolt trying to wind the washer down. Pissed.

Sent both units to Jason at Rebuild in the UK.. not fixed.. $800cad later.. though he replaced gears (believe he uses odometer gears) and mofsets. The one unit still throws the code. He says he can do some extra work on the board, I just have to spend 8hrs taking it apart and putting it back together, and be without car for a 1 to 2 weeks.

Wish there was a source for a board.

I borrowed tools/set to do the install/removal. Anyone recommend a set of tools I should buy myself to work on this M.
Damn man that's rough, if you don't have a complete set of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 sockets that's a good place to start for tool. Plus a bunch of extensions and some universal joints. That will get you pretty far. get ones with a lifetime warranty...maybe sears
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      07-21-2016, 07:07 PM   #579
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In terms of tools, I just have a pretty basic set of Craftsman sockets and wrenches. It used to be that the majority of nuts/bolts on German cars were 10 and 13 mm with limited 17 and 19 mm. On my E90 I've seen some other sizes, but a fair number of different torx sizes. One can get a pretty good selection of decent tools for a 1/4 of the price of a new actuator.

As I had replaced my gears I purchased one good used actuator and one that had thrown codes (board visually looks good). I will eventually put in new Odometer Gears.
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      07-22-2016, 08:10 AM   #580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matte View Post
Repair failed x 2.
08, m3 38k miles on it.

threw codes when I hit a bump

Pulled actuators, (even good one had shavings)
-bought the Bross gear set on Amazon,
-one wheel broke trying to drill
-also couldn't find a bit to drill staff. Bought a specific metal bit as well. We put it in without the pin, and then stripped the bolt trying to wind the washer down. Pissed.

Sent both units to Jason at Rebuild in the UK.. not fixed.. $800cad later.. though he replaced gears (believe he uses odometer gears) and mofsets. The one unit still throws the code. He says he can do some extra work on the board, I just have to spend 8hrs taking it apart and putting it back together, and be without car for a 1 to 2 weeks.

Wish there was a source for a board.

I borrowed tools/set to do the install/removal. Anyone recommend a set of tools I should buy myself to work on this M.
Just get a basic Craftsman tool set with metric sockets. They aren't overly expensive and have a lifetime warranty. It's worth having just so you can DIY on your car. You'll save yourself more money than the tools are worth.

And like I said in the DIY, once you do this job once, you would be able to do it again in 1/2 the time
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      07-22-2016, 01:00 PM   #581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drummer20 View Post
How many miles have you driven since you first saw this problem?
Also my actuator housings had the manufacture date sticker on them, so you should be able to pull them off the car if you wanna know if they have been replaced. I am betting they have though. If not, that is probably a new record. Highest I heard of them lasting is around 90k
Probably driven 20 miles or so.

I pulled them today they had a date of 9-19-2008 so maybe they are the original. New record!!!

I was only having bank one problems, but replaced both gears since they were both worn.

Bank one that threw the code had a burnt out mosfet




I replaced that and put everything back together and it seems worse than before. It will turn on in Limp mode instead of only going into limp mode under heavy acceleration and is throwing two new codes p210A and the P1628.

So maybe by trying to fix it I made it worse? Or does it need to be reset or something?
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      07-22-2016, 04:00 PM   #582
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Definitely original with that date, I would open it up and give the gears a look and make sure nothing seems out of the ordinary. I even sprayed some 3M silicone wet spray on the output shaft for the bearings in there and then a bit on the gears too. I just couldn't assembly them dry as the Odometer Gears people directed.

While the car is apart lube up the throttle linkages.

Then I would replace all the FETs on the circuit board including the one you just replaced.

I have identified several other parts on this board that could be replaced as well if you want something else to try. I been meaning to post this hoping someone would try it but hadn't had much time lately. I actually spent the better part of a day researching this so here goes:

Almost all these parts can be found on Digikey.com or Mouser.com or Findchips.com is a great site that searches a bunch of other sites all at once.

First of all, don't touch the big microprocessor is a SAK-C164CL-8RM. You must have a proper preheater and hot air/infrared rework station for this guy to be replaced. It would probably need to be reprogrammed... A major headache....

Also There is a part labeled 24LC02BE. It's an EEPROM it might have code saved in it and if replaced would need to be reprogrammed. I wouldn't touch this one until you have tried replacing all the rest of the parts below. There is a chance the CLPD would just reprogram it in system upon power up but that's seems unlikely to me.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....rd=24LC02BE/SN

Alright, so what CAN you replace easily?
There is a TLE4275 voltage regulator. It's a power supply basically. It has 4275D. It's one of these guys: http://www.mouser.com/Texas-Instrume...yxz3b1Z1z0zls6
Sorry I put mine back together without figuring out what package it is. It's one of the TO-something packages I think. Measure yours and compare to the datasheet or order both or order the smaller one TO-252 package, it will probably still make connection even if the board pads are bigger/wider. They are $2.56 each. I am pretty sure the UK rebuild guys replace this guy as part of their regular procedure.

There is another regulator with 4266 G on it. here it is: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...Kp0o1DUfPqg%3d

There is a comparator with ST 2903 that is the LM2903 from ST Micro. Here ya go http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...5-1-ND/2193292

Of course the main driver FET that everyone is replacing when it burns out http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...Ov0x0rig%3D%3D Also there is like 5 or 6 of these on the board...The best chance of success is replacing all of them.

There is an oscillator next to the big microprocessor. I didn't see it for sale anywhwere but I believe it's the Abracon HC49/U with the MJ option. I'll let you guys hunt that one down for now. I think you might could wedge any crystal 16MHz jobber in there and make it work.

There is a CAN Transceiver on there. You gotta talk to your CAR Area Network if you're a throttle actuator right? yep, it's like LAN that your computer uses but for cars. It has a A82C250 on it. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...fWR2VL7zD4g%3d

Ok those are the easy ones that I have high confidence I identified correctly.
Nowww, the harder ones. It seems like the designer likes the Infineon and NXP parts so anyway. Those are the safe replacements these ones are fairly safe still but I didn't have much to go on. As you will see, sometimes just 3 letters, a particular package and a rough judgement if a part like that would make sense in that area of the board. For instance smaller auxillary fets are often found near the main driver fets so without further ado:


there a little IC with a 13t written on it. I am pretty sure it's the http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...Krrwl8mDRPs%3d Here is one of the aux FETs I mentioned.

the one with 6Bt could be http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...xvvlzDM%2fM%3d another Aux FET.

A57 don't know! for the life of me couldn't find it. It's probably just a schottkey diode with 60V rating and .5-1A current rating.

A4t could be http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...vcJdK%252bndx0 Notice all these are NXP, talk about playing favorites! heh we all do it A diode makes sense to be near the main driver fets. Diodes are used to the flow currents in between the FETs turning on and off. Makes it easier on the FETs. So they could be failing if the FETs are failing.

The A1t could be http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...f5NFJfRpOss%3d here is another diode.


There are a couple other that I just couldn't find they are the ones with T1s, A7, 1Cs. I searched long and hard and nothing. Sorry no one's perfect.

Of course, some of the resistors and capacitors on the board could have degraded to the point where they don't work so all this is no sure thing.


It kinda sucks that you don't know what is wrong without testing it so you will be throwing parts (money) at it hoping for a fix. I know someone had these boards in the lab and was trying stuff but they stopped posting.

And finally the disclaimer, try all this at your own risk. I'm not responsible for any damage to your car or you or anyone else. I will say that when my board fails. I am going to do this to my board and put it my car soooooo Good Luck!!

Last edited by drummer20; 07-22-2016 at 04:27 PM..
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      07-22-2016, 05:16 PM   #583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drummer20 View Post
Definitely original with that date, I would open it up and give the gears a look and make sure nothing seems out of the ordinary. I even sprayed some 3M silicone wet spray on the output shaft for the bearings in there and then a bit on the gears too. I just couldn't assembly them dry as the Odometer Gears people directed.

While the car is apart lube up the throttle linkages.

Then I would replace all the FETs on the circuit board including the one you just replaced.

I have identified several other parts on this board that could be replaced as well if you want something else to try. I been meaning to post this hoping someone would try it but hadn't had much time lately. I actually spent the better part of a day researching this so here goes:

Almost all these parts can be found on Digikey.com or Mouser.com or Findchips.com is a great site that searches a bunch of other sites all at once.

First of all, don't touch the big microprocessor is a SAK-C164CL-8RM. You must have a proper preheater and hot air/infrared rework station for this guy to be replaced. It would probably need to be reprogrammed... A major headache....

Also There is a part labeled 24LC02BE. It's an EEPROM it might have code saved in it and if replaced would need to be reprogrammed. I wouldn't touch this one until you have tried replacing all the rest of the parts below. There is a chance the CLPD would just reprogram it in system upon power up but that's seems unlikely to me.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....rd=24LC02BE/SN

Alright, so what CAN you replace easily?
There is a TLE4275 voltage regulator. It's a power supply basically. It has 4275D. It's one of these guys: http://www.mouser.com/Texas-Instrume...yxz3b1Z1z0zls6
Sorry I put mine back together without figuring out what package it is. It's one of the TO-something packages I think. Measure yours and compare to the datasheet or order both or order the smaller one TO-252 package, it will probably still make connection even if the board pads are bigger/wider. They are $2.56 each. I am pretty sure the UK rebuild guys replace this guy as part of their regular procedure.

There is another regulator with 4266 G on it. here it is: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...Kp0o1DUfPqg%3d

There is a comparator with ST 2903 that is the LM2903 from ST Micro. Here ya go http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...5-1-ND/2193292

Of course the main driver FET that everyone is replacing when it burns out http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...Ov0x0rig%3D%3D Also there is like 5 or 6 of these on the board...The best chance of success is replacing all of them.

There is an oscillator next to the big microprocessor. I didn't see it for sale anywhwere but I believe it's the Abracon HC49/U with the MJ option. I'll let you guys hunt that one down for now. I think you might could wedge any crystal 16MHz jobber in there and make it work.

There is a CAN Transceiver on there. You gotta talk to your CAR Area Network if you're a throttle actuator right? yep, it's like LAN that your computer uses but for cars. It has a A82C250 on it. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...fWR2VL7zD4g%3d

Ok those are the easy ones that I have high confidence I identified correctly.
Nowww, the harder ones. It seems like the designer likes the Infineon and NXP parts so anyway. Those are the safe replacements these ones are fairly safe still but I didn't have much to go on. As you will see, sometimes just 3 letters, a particular package and a rough judgement if a part like that would make sense in that area of the board. For instance smaller auxillary fets are often found near the main driver fets so without further ado:


there a little IC with a 13t written on it. I am pretty sure it's the http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...Krrwl8mDRPs%3d Here is one of the aux FETs I mentioned.

the one with 6Bt could be http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...xvvlzDM%2fM%3d another Aux FET.

A57 don't know! for the life of me couldn't find it. It's probably just a schottkey diode with 60V rating and .5-1A current rating.

A4t could be http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...vcJdK%252bndx0 Notice all these are NXP, talk about playing favorites! heh we all do it A diode makes sense to be near the main driver fets. Diodes are used to the flow currents in between the FETs turning on and off. Makes it easier on the FETs. So they could be failing if the FETs are failing.

The A1t could be http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...f5NFJfRpOss%3d here is another diode.


There are a couple other that I just couldn't find they are the ones with T1s, A7, 1Cs. I searched long and hard and nothing. Sorry no one's perfect.

Of course, some of the resistors and capacitors on the board could have degraded to the point where they don't work so all this is no sure thing.


It kinda sucks that you don't know what is wrong without testing it so you will be throwing parts (money) at it hoping for a fix. I know someone had these boards in the lab and was trying stuff but they stopped posting.

And finally the disclaimer, try all this at your own risk. I'm not responsible for any damage to your car or you or anyone else. I will say that when my board fails. I am going to do this to my board and put it my car soooooo Good Luck!!
Wow, that is the most detailed component list I have seen yet. I don't trust my surface soldering enough yet to do anything much smaller than the fets that I already did.



I took it back out to make sure i put everything back together properly and discovered that when i pulled the arm back, it didn't snap back quickly like the other one. Took the top off and it started snapping back like I assume it is supposed to.

So I discovered that when the two metal prongs are plugged into the board the arm slowly winds back in place. When not connected it snaps back.

I can connect the two prongs with a jumper and replicate what it is doing.

Does this mean anything? I bought 10 of the mosfets and will try to replace the other 4 next and see what happens. Just confused about the slow moving arm when connected to the board. Here is a video.


Last edited by malibu73@gmail.com; 07-22-2016 at 05:24 PM..
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      07-22-2016, 07:16 PM   #584
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Holy Shit Snacks. I FIXED IT!!

I replaced the other 4 Fets, Because I figured why not. Got them soldered on, and as soon as I closed the actuator the arm closed like normal. At this point I had a smile.
I plugged everything up and it started right up with no limp mode smile got bigger. Put everything back together, let it warm up, and gave it some throttle and she purrs. I think people in the cars I was passing could hear me cheering. haha

Thanks for the Help, hopefully it will stay fixed (fingers crossed) I won't feel so bad if it doesn't seeing as they are original to the car with 150k miles.
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      07-22-2016, 07:56 PM   #585
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haha nice job man! I just saw the email notification and could read your first post in the email directly and I watched the video....and so i went to login in and I was gonna say that my actuator didn't return slowly like that and then if you can recreate it by shorting the wires together, the FETs on the board must be shorted somehow.....but you got it already....sweet!!
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      07-22-2016, 07:58 PM   #586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibu73@gmail.com View Post
...as soon as I closed the actuator the arm closed like normal....
What's normal? Snap back quickly or in slow motion?
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      07-23-2016, 09:57 PM   #587
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Snap back quickly is the norm
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      07-25-2016, 08:11 PM   #588
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I'm wondering how many people have swapped one or both of their actuators with the dealer replacement and had it fail again at some point. I haven't read about any such cases yet, so I wonder if the newer ones are better and hopefully are not so prone to early failure. Mine lasted about 93k so I guess I got somewhat lucky. I have a set of gears and mosfets on order so hopefully I can get by with a repair rather than ponying up $1800 for a new pair of TAs. Thanks to OP for the DIY.
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      07-26-2016, 09:34 AM   #589
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yea I hadn't read of replacement actuators going bad either. people have hypothesized that they have changed the programming to help reduce the wear but it's all speculation. I have heard of people buying new actuators and swapping out the gears with aftermarket gears right away though. That is kinda strange to me cuz I feel like you might as well get a little life out of the original gears before swapping but to each his own. Unless you are gonna put in metal gears or something. That would be pretty sweet
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      07-29-2016, 04:16 PM   #590
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So I replaced the gears on both of my TAs today, install went smoothly. I swapped the circuit boards between the two actuators and reinstalled them in the car. I cleared the codes and adaptations using BMWlogger and fired it up (no intake manifold installed). First start went ok, no TA codes or limp mode. Restarted again a few times and TA codes and limp mode came back same as before, CDC0 for bank 2.

I expected the code to switch banks if the circuit board was bad, so I'm thinking the bank 2 motor is bad. Has anyone sourced a replacement for it? anyone know how to even get it out of the housing? It appears to be press fit in there.

I'll troubleshoot further tomorrow, but I'm open to suggestions for what to do next? Should I attempt the mosfet swap since I have the parts or give up and buy a new TA?
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      07-29-2016, 09:33 PM   #591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3amigos View Post
So I replaced the gears on both of my TAs today, install went smoothly. I swapped the circuit boards between the two actuators and reinstalled them in the car. I cleared the codes and adaptations using BMWlogger and fired it up (no intake manifold installed). First start went ok, no TA codes or limp mode. Restarted again a few times and TA codes and limp mode came back same as before, CDC0 for bank 2.

I expected the code to switch banks if the circuit board was bad, so I'm thinking the bank 2 motor is bad. Has anyone sourced a replacement for it? anyone know how to even get it out of the housing? It appears to be press fit in there.

I'll troubleshoot further tomorrow, but I'm open to suggestions for what to do next? Should I attempt the mosfet swap since I have the parts or give up and buy a new TA?
I would swap the mosfets out anyways. The general consensus is the motors are rarely the problem. You Can also try lubing the throttle linkages on the car and the bearings inside the unit really well.
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      07-30-2016, 10:26 AM   #592
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After some more troubleshootiing, it seems I may have a battery/alternator issue. I've been momitoring the voltages and my alternator seems to have low output, about 12.5V at idle, and 13.5 at 2.5k with all accessories on. The TAs seem to fail when car has been sitting more than a few hours and battery voltage is low, <12V. If I charge the batter for a little while and clear the codes, all is well. Has anyone else experienced this? Could shorted/bad TAs be pulling the voltage down? My battery is about 3 years old and the alternator is original. I think I'll be taking the car down to autozone later to have both checked.
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      07-30-2016, 02:44 PM   #593
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Both of my BMW OEM batteries died at 3 years.
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      08-01-2016, 06:29 AM   #594
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Two shops confirmed that my alternator is bad. Autozone had an OEM reman for only $170. I installed it and voltages are back to normal levels. I drove around for about 3 hours without any codes, so thats promising. we'll see how it holds up this week, but i'm happy to have escaped complete TA failure with just the gear rebuild and alternator replacement.

Side note, was excited to find out about the hidden service menu on the dash display. I was able to turn on the voltage monitor which really helped troubleshooting. For anyone that hasn't seen it, check out this site...
http://e90.wikifoundry-mobile.com/m/...C+hidden+menus
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2008 Jerez Black Metallic E93 6MT
K&N Drop In Filter | HPA Pulley | Custom Catless Resonated X-Pipe | BPM Stage II Tune | Megan Racing Exhaust
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