BMW Motorsport bushings

D_o_S · 01-19-2013, 11:45 AM

Hi guys,

I posted this up at E90post but got no love, so I'm here hoping M3 enthusiasts will be keener to answer

I'd like to upgrade the bushings on my car. I plan to get these changed at 30k miles, which I've heard is the time when things start going...

I'm running a 335i E90 LCI. Car is a DD, so it needs to be streetable...

What I'm in for:
Front Lower Control Arm Bushings (LCAB) - Motorsport Race
- I guess this is a no-brainer, at the price? $99

Rear subframe
My biggest dilemma. I've heard of the E46 subframe cracking, and I'm scared that this would happen on my car if I switched to solids?
On the other hand, some people say that by going solid you actually reduce the risk of cracking the shell/subframe? I don't understand this... the bushings damp any forces acting on the subframe and prevent them from reaching the body shell. If you remove the rubber and put in solids, then there is nothing to damp the forces and ALL of it is transmitted into the shell?
Sooo... options are stock M3 subframe bushings, or Turner Delrin, or polyurethane...

Rear trailing arm:
Lets refer to the powerflex diagram here:
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/...29-2667/1.html
The parts listed at Turner as: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing - Inner + Outer - BMW Motorsport Race Rubber - E82, E9X, are for number 15 on the diagram, correct?

Is there anything else that needs doing at around 30k bushing wise? Any NVH associated with these mods?

Also, is it good to do anything else while getting the subframe bushings changed? I've heard its wise to do the rear sway bar? How will the car handle provided that I only switch the rear sway and keep the front sway OEM (M packet)?

Many thanks.

bigjae1976 · 01-19-2013, 12:14 PM

Harder rubber will add some NVH. But why go to such lengths to change these bushings out? Are they bad? If I were dropping the subframe for some reason, sure. But I wouldn't just do it to do it. The E46 had known issues with the FCAB, RTABs, and either the diff monts or the subframe bushings (one would go, the other would be OK). I'm not aware of any issues with the E9X platform.

I also think the E9X M3 suspension design is more durable than the E46 design.

D_o_S · 01-19-2013, 01:33 PM

Thanks for the prompt response,

I'm in central europe and the roads here are pretty bad. I've hear that the front lower and rear lower arm bushings go at 40 000 Km, so I'm thinking I might as well change 'em to something better...

The 335i subframe bushings are apparently waaay too soft, everyone that has done the M3 subframe bushing upgrade at e90post claims it is worthwhile...

MilehighM3 · 01-21-2013, 07:40 AM

I did them all in my 1 series and was happy with them. It's quite an investment of both time and money to get them installed, but it does transform the car. Really they only require replacement as an upgrade, not because they are worn. If your car has additional power, it is worth it. If you're a track junkie, it is worth it. Otherwise leave them alone as it will be a waste of money. The additional torque from even just software over works the rear suspension and the car cannot track straight. Just know that once you start to upgrade the parts, it never stops. The easiest and best way to upgrade them is to buy an M3. Trust me on that one!

TXmtrhed · 01-21-2013, 09:06 AM

One of the most popular initial suspension mods for the E9x car is to replace the front lower contorl arms with pieces from the E9x M3. The M3 parts have stiffer and better bushings plus they are slightly longer helping you achieve a little more negative camber. In most peoples mind this is a much better mod than simply replacing the bushings.

The rear subframe bushings are soft and are typically replaced with M3 bushings but this is fairly labor intensive involving dropping the subframe 6 inches or so to gain clearance for the bearing press. Probably not neccesary if you're not going to upgrade the shocks and springs.

I wouldn't replace the rear swaybar unless you were doing a complete sport suspension install. Do the springs and shocks before the swaybars; they make the biggest difference.

larryn · 01-21-2013, 09:48 AM

On my old 135i, I did the M3 front parts and the rear M3 subframe bushings (all done myself) and the rear was more noticeable than the front. It is the same rear carrier in the E82 to the E9X, so it's the same job to replace the rear bushings. Not for the faint of heart, and suggest sourcing the proper bushing press, if you are doing it yourself. I made mine, and it was harrowing.

You didn't mention if you track your car, but you did mention that the roads are bad where you are. These modifications you are contemplating will stiffen the ride. So unless you are tracking the car, stick to OEM - or the M3 parts.

01-19-2013, 11:45 AM	#1
D_o_S LCI'd 257 Rep 819 Posts Drives: 335i LCI Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Home iTrader: (1)	BMW Motorsport bushings Hi guys, I posted this up at E90post but got no love, so I'm here hoping M3 enthusiasts will be keener to answer I'd like to upgrade the bushings on my car. I plan to get these changed at 30k miles, which I've heard is the time when things start going... I'm running a 335i E90 LCI. Car is a DD, so it needs to be streetable... What I'm in for: Front Lower Control Arm Bushings (LCAB) - Motorsport Race - I guess this is a no-brainer, at the price? $99 Rear subframe My biggest dilemma. I've heard of the E46 subframe cracking, and I'm scared that this would happen on my car if I switched to solids? On the other hand, some people say that by going solid you actually reduce the risk of cracking the shell/subframe? I don't understand this... the bushings damp any forces acting on the subframe and prevent them from reaching the body shell. If you remove the rubber and put in solids, then there is nothing to damp the forces and ALL of it is transmitted into the shell? Sooo... options are stock M3 subframe bushings, or Turner Delrin, or polyurethane... Rear trailing arm: Lets refer to the powerflex diagram here: http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/...29-2667/1.html The parts listed at Turner as: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing - Inner + Outer - BMW Motorsport Race Rubber - E82, E9X, are for number 15 on the diagram, correct? Is there anything else that needs doing at around 30k bushing wise? Any NVH associated with these mods? Also, is it good to do anything else while getting the subframe bushings changed? I've heard its wise to do the rear sway bar? How will the car handle provided that I only switch the rear sway and keep the front sway OEM (M packet)? Many thanks.
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01-19-2013, 12:14 PM	#2
bigjae1976 Major General 1570 Rep 8,075 Posts Drives: 11 E90 M3 Individual Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Houston, TX iTrader: (22) Garage List 2004 BMW M3 [4.50] 2011 BMW E90 M3 [5.25] 2013 BMW 328i [5.00]	Harder rubber will add some NVH. But why go to such lengths to change these bushings out? Are they bad? If I were dropping the subframe for some reason, sure. But I wouldn't just do it to do it. The E46 had known issues with the FCAB, RTABs, and either the diff monts or the subframe bushings (one would go, the other would be OK). I'm not aware of any issues with the E9X platform. I also think the E9X M3 suspension design is more durable than the E46 design. __________________ 2018 F30 320iX Melbourne Red 2011 E90 M3 Monte Carlo Blue 2004 E46 M3 Imola Red 2000 E36/7 Z3 Steel Blue
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01-19-2013, 01:33 PM	#3
D_o_S LCI'd 257 Rep 819 Posts Drives: 335i LCI Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Home iTrader: (1)	Thanks for the prompt response, I'm in central europe and the roads here are pretty bad. I've hear that the front lower and rear lower arm bushings go at 40 000 Km, so I'm thinking I might as well change 'em to something better... The 335i subframe bushings are apparently waaay too soft, everyone that has done the M3 subframe bushing upgrade at e90post claims it is worthwhile...
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01-21-2013, 07:40 AM	#4
MilehighM3 Brigadier General 915 Rep 3,456 Posts Drives: Harrop E90 M3 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Colorado Springs iTrader: (14) Garage List 2009 E90 M3 [6.50]	I did them all in my 1 series and was happy with them. It's quite an investment of both time and money to get them installed, but it does transform the car. Really they only require replacement as an upgrade, not because they are worn. If your car has additional power, it is worth it. If you're a track junkie, it is worth it. Otherwise leave them alone as it will be a waste of money. The additional torque from even just software over works the rear suspension and the car cannot track straight. Just know that once you start to upgrade the parts, it never stops. The easiest and best way to upgrade them is to buy an M3. Trust me on that one!
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01-21-2013, 09:06 AM	#5
TXmtrhed First Lieutenant 37 Rep 381 Posts Drives: VO 1M Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Katy, TX iTrader: (0)	One of the most popular initial suspension mods for the E9x car is to replace the front lower contorl arms with pieces from the E9x M3. The M3 parts have stiffer and better bushings plus they are slightly longer helping you achieve a little more negative camber. In most peoples mind this is a much better mod than simply replacing the bushings. The rear subframe bushings are soft and are typically replaced with M3 bushings but this is fairly labor intensive involving dropping the subframe 6 inches or so to gain clearance for the bearing press. Probably not neccesary if you're not going to upgrade the shocks and springs. I wouldn't replace the rear swaybar unless you were doing a complete sport suspension install. Do the springs and shocks before the swaybars; they make the biggest difference.
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01-21-2013, 09:48 AM	#6
larryn Lieutenant General 2146 Rep 10,176 Posts Drives: '97 332ti, '21 X5 45e, '16 GT4 Join Date: May 2005 Location: Seattle iTrader: (2)	On my old 135i, I did the M3 front parts and the rear M3 subframe bushings (all done myself) and the rear was more noticeable than the front. It is the same rear carrier in the E82 to the E9X, so it's the same job to replace the rear bushings. Not for the faint of heart, and suggest sourcing the proper bushing press, if you are doing it yourself. I made mine, and it was harrowing. You didn't mention if you track your car, but you did mention that the roads are bad where you are. These modifications you are contemplating will stiffen the ride. So unless you are tracking the car, stick to OEM - or the M3 parts.
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