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03-28-2014, 08:46 AM | #3 |
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It doesn't look like you cleaned the hub before painting it which defeats the purpose. You also do not want paint on a spacer or wheel mounting face. There is a reason both of those parts are free of paint! You need a perfectly flat surface to ensure no vibration.
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03-28-2014, 12:09 PM | #4 |
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That's actually a zinc chromate primer. A very light dusting. No excuse for corrosion so I wouldn't dream of leaving that surface bare. That corrosion was found when the center caps were removed from the wheels while still on the car. Water actually ran out of the center. At that time the centers were dried out and then fogged with the "green paint". That's why you see green and the corrosion. The other pics are after proper prepping with wheels off. Corrosion was cause primarily due to the center caps not being vented so moisture could escape due to the rapid heating and cooling of wheel/brake assy's and less to the two dissimilar metals in contact with each other.
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03-28-2014, 01:06 PM | #5 | |
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FWIW - I'm not a fan of the rust in those areas either (especially when running wheels without center caps). I cleaned up my hub centers and coated them with Boeshield T9 which is a rust inhibitor - see pics below. I did not however put anything on the wheel or hub mounting surfaces.
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'04 M3 - Fall Line Motorsports Built Race Car - S65 swap, Dry Sump, Bosch Stand-Alone ECU, Drenth Sequential Trans, MCS 3-Way, Flossmann Wide Body, Brembo Motorsports Brakes, Drexler LSD, BBS E88 Etc. INSTAGRAM - @Slicer_M Last edited by slicer; 03-28-2014 at 01:21 PM.. |
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03-30-2014, 12:27 AM | #7 |
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I prepped and painted my rear center hubs two years ago. It's full of rust now.
That Boeshield looks promising. Thanks. .
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
Last edited by aus; 05-19-2014 at 01:23 AM.. |
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03-31-2014, 07:33 AM | #9 | ||
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Thank you for you input. |
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03-31-2014, 09:20 AM | #10 |
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So far I just have used steel wool and brush initially as needed to clean the hub area then appy with light cloth. I have done this on mu trailer hubs as well. Not sure of the longevity as just started doiing this recently.
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03-31-2014, 11:00 AM | #11 | |
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I used to hate wheels without center caps due the exposed Rusty hubs. Now I love how it looks.
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03-31-2014, 11:29 AM | #12 | ||
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04-01-2014, 01:27 PM | #13 |
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I don't disagree at all with "slicer", sounds like you've been around the block once! I'm sure the t-9 works also. . . is that a bicycle chain lube? If you was a "rattle can" type of guy, Mouse Milk would be excellent (Aviation Military Specification), I'm sure the internet could help find this stuff. Don't remember a brand name. Used it at work. In time I will see results of my method. Don't get "dusting" or "fogging" confused with "PAINTING"! Painting is a multiple coats (layers) measured in "mils". Anyhow this car stuff is great! all aspects of it, racing, car shows, actually being the one doing the work! etc. I'm old school, love the old Detroit iron. And old school look of no center caps and ARP studs/nuts.
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04-01-2014, 03:26 PM | #14 |
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Wire bursh on drill to clean the hub up a bit and then some good Rustoleum Hammered/Wrinkle Gray.... Love this finish and the way it looks. Comes out amazing with limited prep and excellent durability. Looks pretty good agains the gunmetal Volks too!!
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04-02-2014, 11:37 AM | #15 | |
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05-18-2014, 11:13 PM | #16 | |
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