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02-10-2014, 06:35 PM | #353 |
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Question: Is there a trick to engage the passenger coil at the very back? There's no much room to maneuver and I just can't get it to clip in. Or do I just need to quit being a sissy?
My DIY was pretty disastrous. Driver side went smoothly enough, but I had all sorts of issue with the back 2 on the passenger side. After dropping tools into engine bay (which I'll have to fish out after this), getting the socket stuck to the spark plug while taking it off and having not room to fit a ratchet in there, I decided to pull the entire plenum off. Gave me much more room. I was just scared to use all sorts of extensions and u-joints and torquing the spark plugs at an angle as they were on there pretty good (a little too tight for my taste, but that was the previous owner). I'm probably past 3-4 hours at this point, just working on it a little at a time
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02-10-2014, 08:03 PM | #354 |
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W///,
I assume you mean remove the back coil pack or installing it? I ended up with a nasty bruise on the palm of my hand for a week from pushing that coil pack back in. The passenger firewall side coil pack is a real bugger to get out. I ended up snapping the top off the coil pack because it would not budge and there was no way to get vertical pull on it. I was using a long screwdriver and a pry block to move it, but snapped off the top. At that point my only option was to use a piece of CAT5 network cable wrapped under the connector and around the coil pack. Then that was threaded up over some sort of chassis stiffener bar and pulled up using that for leverage. Sockets and extensions should be taped together with electrical tape to prevent them from dropping off inside the engine. I reinstalled a non broken coil pack in the rear spot, I never want to see that one again for another 37K miles. I put the broken one in the front where it would be easy to replace once my new one arrived from the shop. Make sure to turn the new plugs backwards by hand a few turns before threading them in. You will feel a click when the threads align. This will greatly help reduce the risk of cross threading. Never use any driver until you have them seated by hand first. I was able to almost bottom them out by hand which assured me the threads were good. When using a universal make sure to support the vertical extension that is inside the head with a hand because the universal joint will cause the leverage to want to twist off sideways and can snap a plug off or do other damage. Torqueing is not recommended with any setup like that where the wrench is not overtop the socket. I did mine by feel. Down till snug then 1/4 turn more. plug box says snug plus 1/2 turn more, but I didn't like the feel past 1/4 turn so I stuck with that. Anyway with this done you'll feel much better doing it yourself knowing it was done right and you'll save yourself several hundred dollars in the end even if you drink some very expensive beer while you do the work. It does take quite a selection of various length extensions. I used an extra long plug socket that ended up working perfectly with a short extension taped to it. I was able to drop that down inside the engine and the top of the extension would stick up an inch or so from the engine so it was easy to attach to at that point. Its required for the rear two where you cant lower the entire rig in at the same time with a plug attached. Drop the socket and first extension, then attach to it later. Here's the socket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cheers.
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Last edited by TX; 02-10-2014 at 08:22 PM.. |
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02-10-2014, 08:23 PM | #355 | |
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I know there's 2 DIY's for this job, but I started off not taking the intake plenum off and struggled big time with the passenger side. My extensions were either too long or too short. With the plenum off, I was able to use a shorter extension. With the intake on, the plenum would have been in the way for the angle I used. After I install that last coil, I'll put the plenum back on, put car on jackstands, take underbody panel off and recover my tools
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02-10-2014, 08:25 PM | #356 |
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re-installed by hand. Pushed down with palm of hand till they were fully seated. Mine didn't click, they just make a firm suction sounding seal when all the way down. I then ran a straight edge across all 4 to makes sure they were seated the same amount. Sorry I misunderstood your question. You should not see any gap under the sealing ring of the coil pack when seated.
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02-10-2014, 08:40 PM | #357 | |
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02-10-2014, 08:43 PM | #358 | |
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They do make a nice thunk sound when they are seated.
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02-10-2014, 08:47 PM | #359 | |
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P.S you were absolutely right about wearing gloves. Half way through the DIY, I dug up my Mechanix gloves because my knuckles were getting torn up.
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02-11-2014, 12:43 PM | #360 |
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I had the same issue with both the number 4 and number 8. I don't think I am weak but for the life of me, I couldn't get the 4 and the 8 coil to click pushing them in with my hand. I think what happens is when you push with your hand, because they are all the way back, you push them with an angle and it's impossible to get them in. What I end up doing is using a long pry bar and position one end on top of the coil with some padding so it doesn't damage the coil top and the other end elevated with some wooden block. Then I push down on the bar and the coil clicked right in I wouldn't believe it. You might want to give it a try. ymmv and I am not responsible if you damage the coil. Here is an illustration of what I am talking about.
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02-11-2014, 02:00 PM | #361 | |
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02-11-2014, 02:11 PM | #362 |
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Oh no, the block of wood is on the engine around the front (cylinder 1 or 5). Don't 'pry' on the bar, just push down on it. At least that's what I did. I think any method that can ensure a 'straight' push on the coil should do the trick.
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02-11-2014, 04:17 PM | #363 |
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it took my full body weight and then bouncing up and down with more weight to get the rears to seat. It's just hard to get the leverage right. As a result I ended up with very bad bruises on the palm of my hands for a week.
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02-11-2014, 04:25 PM | #364 |
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^That's exactly what I did but I was still not able to pop them in. After like 45 minutes, i gave up and went to grab a long bar and did it the way I mentioned above. 10 seconds to setup/position the bar, 1 push and the coil clicked in just like the others. I didn't believe it at first and pulled the coil back out and popped it again to double check. Good luck.
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02-11-2014, 08:05 PM | #365 | |
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For the passenger rear coil. Insert crow bar towards strut tower, with a rag on the end of it. Hold the other side of the crow bar and push it down, the coil will be a little past the middle. Clicked in with almost no effort. Forget doing it by hand. If I were to do it again, I'd definitely do my own DIY. I don't know why I struggled so much on this one!
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02-17-2014, 02:44 PM | #366 | |
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first I tried extra long screw driver.. then I switch to long pry bar as it mentioned. it worked like majic
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02-18-2014, 03:13 AM | #368 | |
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02-18-2014, 07:06 AM | #369 |
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At that point, it was just easier for me, especially to get to the rear passenger spark plug. I didn't have the right combination of extensions and what not, so when I tried it the "regular" way, I was torquing it at an angle which I didn't like. With the plenum off, I was able to get the spark plug out with what I had in no time at all. I'd still like to see your method though for future reference.
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02-20-2014, 03:57 PM | #371 |
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He can't sell on the forum or through the forum due to forum rules. Maybe someone on here will rent you one that they have for a small fee.
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02-20-2014, 04:14 PM | #372 |
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You can get away without using one. Just use a fishbone or a screw driver. Or you can wrap a chord around the head of the coils
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02-20-2014, 04:20 PM | #373 | |
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BTW, the dealership wants over $700 to change the plugs. Cheers.
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02-20-2014, 04:26 PM | #374 | |
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