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07-18-2012, 02:19 AM | #1 |
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PFC 01 pads + water + heat = cement?
Someone told me that if you don't clean off the dust from PFC 01 pads, and then they get hot & wet (like if you use those wheels on track in the rain, I guess), that you will be then unable to remove the pad dust residue. It supposedly turns into a hardened cement-like substance.
Is this true?
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07-18-2012, 03:25 AM | #2 |
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not exactly cement like but it is very very hard to get off paint if left on for it to dry...
also true for some race pads like Hawk blue, DTC-60/70 and some Pagids.
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07-18-2012, 07:32 AM | #3 | |
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Thankfully though, the amount of dust that hardened on the car's body was much less, and was removable with a clay bar. |
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07-18-2012, 07:59 AM | #4 |
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Not true in my experience. Did a wet day at the track last year with OEM rims and PFC-01's and everything cleaned up fine. The wheels were a mess of course and the brake dust had a chance to bake in on the way home but it all cleaned up with some effort. Can't recall if I used anything besides Griot's wheel cleaner.
Using PFC-06's now with track wheels and did a couple of wet sessions over two days a couple of weeks ago and had no problem cleaning those either. I do however now treat my wheels with ArmorAll wheel protectant to make cleanup easier. Never had a problem with brake dust crusting up on the calipers. I use Meguier's Paint Cleaner to get the track rubber off the bodywork, it works really well. You could try it on your wheels. |
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07-18-2012, 12:49 PM | #5 |
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^^^, same here. I ran a wet day earlier this year with PFC-01s and didn't have any issues with residue. Just normal if a bit heavy dust.
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07-18-2012, 01:33 PM | #6 |
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Knock wood, but I have experience no problems with my PFC 01, and I run them on the street - normal driving which means wet conditions. I spend two days cleaning my car beginning the day after each HPDE event - removing rubber marks, bug, exhaust smoke/residue from the car. My rims/wheels are easy to clean as they are off the car, and I use Martin's products :-). Street rims are always a bitch to clean, but again, Martin's stuff helps easy the pain. No crusting noticed.
vz
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07-18-2012, 04:39 PM | #7 |
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It depends. The dust will get caked on and will be a PIA to get off if you allow the dust to clump up and get baked onto the wheel.
Don't think wet driving will do anything but kind of clean your wheels.
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07-18-2012, 11:29 PM | #8 |
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I'm on the verge of just buying a BBK. If I do, I'll be selling a full set of PFC 01's (front + rear) with only a few street miles on them.
I've mostly used carbotech ceramic pads (on my old car). Brake dust has never been an issue with those. And, being incredibly lazy, I've never applied any wheel treatments to make the task any easier. Just remember not to switch between ceramic & organic pads on the same rotors, kids.
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07-18-2012, 11:34 PM | #9 |
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Leave PFC dust on for a day or two, no big deal. Leave it on for a couple of weeks, very big deal. I had PFC's on my OEM wheels on my Cayman S and the brake dust was so corrosive I couldn't even get it off with a strong compound and hard bristle brush (I know, shame on me for leaving the wheels dirty for 2 weeks).
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07-19-2012, 06:59 AM | #10 | |
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07-19-2012, 09:13 AM | #11 |
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As a suggestion/recommendation, anyone having a track dedicated set of tires and wheels, clean both tire and wheel after each event to remove rubber etc from the rims. This affords an excellment opportunity to inspect both for cuts, valve stem condition, missing weights, loose weight tape, bent rims and other in prepration for your next event.
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07-19-2012, 09:34 AM | #12 |
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The best way to do it is prevention. After i destroyed my oem wheels on my previous track car, someone gave me a great suggestion to apply some sort of wheel wax before you even go to the track. Cleaning is very easy after the track day and they always look like new. I use Rejex. Need to apply only once before the season
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07-19-2012, 10:32 AM | #13 | |
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07-19-2012, 10:33 AM | #14 | |
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You could plasti-dip your track wheels. It's like a spray on bra. Comes in a bunch of colors, one is satin black. It peels off like a surgical glove when you're done with it. People are going 6 months so far with them.
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07-19-2012, 11:26 AM | #15 |
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I've heard that, due to the high metallic content of track pads, that if you do not remove them on a timely basis and allow them to get wet and oxidize, that the chemical process either bonds them to the wheel, or if you have enough brake dust, they'll bond to each other.
This is certainly true of Porterfields. I had to once use a chisel to remove some caked on brake dust on a friend's wheels.
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07-19-2012, 11:40 AM | #16 |
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I've been using 50% Grime Reaper to clean my track wheels and it does remove the old deposits.
But I would never do this on wheels that I care about since it will take any clear coating right off.
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07-19-2012, 01:18 PM | #17 |
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07-19-2012, 01:41 PM | #18 |
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I think the compounds are incompatible or something but I think you're good to go if you just re-bed the pads???
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07-19-2012, 03:00 PM | #19 |
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Rebedding is a good idea with any pad. Although I never change my PFC 01 pads between HPDE events, I still "mini" bed them enroute to the track - interstate highway speed to around 20mph is all it takes - two or three times. Might I recommend you do not do this in front of an 18 wheeler
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07-19-2012, 03:21 PM | #20 |
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Part of that bedding process is to get the pads to mate 100% to the rotor surface. Until that happens you'll get weirdness like unstable braking, odd wear, hot spots that could lead to pad deposits, etc.
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07-20-2012, 01:20 AM | #21 | |
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this.
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Failure to do this, when switching between incompatible pad compounds, can result in judder and reduced braking performance.
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07-20-2012, 05:38 AM | #22 |
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