Whos running Mobil 1 0w-40?

[gatorfast]

Originally Posted by 330indy

Of the guys insisting on using 0w40 why not go Redline which is Group5?

Nothing wrong with redline. But M1 is an excellent oil, readily available at any auto parts store, and costs much less than a boutique oil like redline.

[G80indy]

You don't get it. The S65 needs the best film strength available. It's not about convenience. It's about maximum protection for a race grade engine.
Mobil 1 barely gets it done as a "me too formula" and doesn't qualify as "excellent", and certainly not with long drain intervals.

[gatorfast]

Originally Posted by 330indy

You don't get it. The S65 needs the best film strength available. It's not about convenience. It's about maximum protection for a race grade engine.
Mobil 1 barely gets it done as a "me too formula" and doesn't qualify as "excellent", and certainly not with long drain intervals.

Whatever you say man. I guess you are right and everyone else is wrong

[checkmate]

After 1200 miles of driving in the winter, I can report that the M1 0W-40 has led to smoother starts with the engine getting to temperature much quicker. Car is not burning any oil. I commute 50 miles roundtrip every day. Engine runs smooth.

Considering its -1' today, the M1 0W-40 was definitely the right choice.

I plan on switching back to 10W-60 as soon as spring comes around.

P.s. Got my $24 rebate check from Mobil in the mail today. Definitely an added bonus for buying the 10 Qts of oil from Wal-Mart.

[aus]

Originally Posted by gatorfast

Whatever you say man. I guess you are right and everyone else is wrong

The 0W40 is a Euro formula used by MB, Porsche... but what do they know.

Originally Posted by 330indy

You don't get it. The S65 needs the best film strength available. It's not about convenience. It's about maximum protection for a race grade engine.
Mobil 1 barely gets it done as a "me too formula" and doesn't qualify as "excellent", and certainly not with long drain intervals.

[SenorFunkyPants]

Originally Posted by aus

The 0W40 is a Euro formula used by MB, Porsche... but what do they know.

Is not the USA version (LL-01) a different version to the European version (LL-04) of M1 0W40?

[pbonsalb]

What do MB and Porsche specify for the nearly identical models they sell in the US?

[SenorFunkyPants]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

What do MB and Porsche specify for the nearly identical models they sell in the US?

I have no idea.
Its a bit confusing....AFAICT there is only one Fully synthetic M1 0W40 available in Europe which is the Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40 LL-04 compliant.
The USA version cutely named Mobil 1™ 0W-40 European Car Formula is a blend of synthetic and non synthetic base stock and LL-01 compliant (for fuels with more sulphur content)...I think this is called M1 "New life" in Europe.
You can't call an oil "Fully synthetic" in Europe if its a blend but you can in the USA.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants

I have no idea.
Its a bit confusing....AFAICT there is only one Fully synthetic M1 0W40 available in Europe which is the Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40 LL-04 compliant.
The USA version cutely named Mobil 1™ 0W-40 European Car Formula is a blend of synthetic and non synthetic base stock and LL-01 compliant (for fuels with more sulphur content)...I think this is called M1 "New life" in Europe.
You can't call an oil "Fully synthetic" in Europe if its a blend but you can in the USA.

Even if it is a blend, if you're changing M1 out frequently does it really matter?

I would think one big factor that BMW switched to a 10w-60 synthetic is going with a 15k mile oil change interval. So if your change intervals are short then why would a blend be bad?

[SenorFunkyPants]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Even if it is a blend, if you're changing M1 out frequently does it really matter?
I would think one big factor that BMW switched to a 10w-60 synthetic is going with a 15k mile oil change interval. So if your change intervals are short then why would a blend be bad?

AIUI a a fully synthetic basestock doesn't really degrade with use...if you could remove the contaminates, replenish the additives and neutralize the acidity you could basically run the oil for hundreds of thousands of miles.

But back to your point, you are probably correct...changing oil more frequently should offset the non synthetic content.

In the past BMW did have form for having engine problems due to the high sulphur content of USA fuel...which I guess maybe had something to do with the creation of the LL01 and LL04 oil standards?

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants

AIUI a a fully synthetic basestock doesn't really degrade with use...if you could remove the contaminates, replenish the additives and neutralize the acidity you could basically run the oil for hundreds of thousands of miles.

But back to your point, you are probably correct...changing oil more frequently should offset the non synthetic content.

In the past BMW did have form for having engine problems due to the high sulphur content of USA fuel...which I guess maybe had something to do with the creation of the LL01 and LL04 oil standards?

That's what I don't like about M1 is that it will have very little additive in it because of emissions standards and being API certified. I used to use Valvoline VR1 which was off road use only due to it having high levels of additives and would clog catalytic converters.

I have heard of people using Diesel engine oil for its additives.

Again, don't see much of an issue with M1 with frequent changes.

[Shredicus]

Here's some pertinent info on the M1 0w-40 we have here in the states :

As a PhD scientist who spent 33 years in lubricants R & D, I really get a kick out of all of these "laymen" comments which are generally not very accurate, but surprisingly sometimes actually do give a hint of some reality. As a result I feel compelled to make my own expert comments to clarify things for the laymen. BTW, 23 of those years were spent with Mobil working on "synthetic" lubricants.

FOA, "synthetic" is just a term. For one thing, one can make a really lousy "synthetic" lubricant from high-quality PAO base oils, or a really good lubricant from the new "hydroprocessed" base oils (Group II, II+, III or III+ base oils) - it all boils down to the additives. Without additives none of the hydrocarbon base oils are very good as lubricants; with PAO probably being the very worst from an actual stability standpoint. But, it just so happens that with the proper set of additives, a skilled lubricants formulator can make really good lubricants with PAO; but they also can with high-quality hydroprocessed base oils as well.

The lubricant producers formulate to meet the requires specifications by balancing the base oils and additives synergistically and at generally the lowest possible cost (to maximize profits). For wide-crossgraded products like a 0W-40, one needs base oils with good low temperatures properties and a flat temperature-viscosity profile (generally referred to as VI or Viscosity Index). Although hydroprocessing can create base oils with these attributes if one begins with the right feedstock and uses just the right transformation processes (like starting with a slack wax and doing isomerization dewaxing and hydrofinishing). In fact using the right processes can actually create base oils better than PAO from the VI standpoint, but not so easily producing the low temperature properties, unless a process like the MSDW-II process, a highly-selective isomerization dewaxing process, created by Mobil, is run properly to a low pour point product. For economic reason I don't believe they actually do that, at least not to my current knowledge. I know because I initiated the work that created this incredible process and know all of its capabilities.

Anyway, in order to meet the viscosity specs of SAE J300 for a 0W-40, most formulations today would require some Group III or III+ base oils along with some PAO to slip within these difficult set of specs. But, that doesn't matter other than for the viscosity of the oil; the quality of the oil is basically totally dependent upon the performance of the additive system. And, Mobil 1 has traditional always been formulated with the state of the art additives in a synergistic balance to produce the best possible lubricant product. One reason being is that it cost nothing extra because the PAO base oil and the additives are a price wash.

[kaede]

I am just wondering, anyone tried mixing TWS with M1 0w40?

After reading the whole thread, I am convinced that the M1 0w40 will be beneficial for my use. I will be DD'ing the car, rarely go pass 5k rpm (actually, probably haven't at all since I acquired the car around a month ago), and will never see a track or autocross day for most of the year.

As per some user on here, they have had very decent UOA that shows no sign of problem. In fact, when compared to the recommended TWS 10w60, signs of bearing wear (lead indicator) went down! For a DD oil, the M1 0w40 seems like an excellent choice. Not to mention that it is in fact factory fill for many other exotic/high performance sports cars.

Again, i understand BMW probably recommended 10w60 for factory fill for high temp protection, but of course I am clueless why at the end xD Not a Chemist and will never understand why. I have never ran any oil for any of my high performance cars with a 60 weight before, and honestly, unless the car is seeing redlines for a prolonged period of time, that oil weight class just seems very extreme.

I do however thinking of whether or not to mix some TWS in the 0w40 in the summer time where I will be taking the car to the track 2 or 3 times only. I am guessing half half. Any one tried doing that before? what are the results and personal opinion? Thank you very much guys!

[BMWNORTHAMERICA]

Originally Posted by kaede

I am just wondering, anyone tried mixing TWS with M1 0w40?

After reading the whole thread, I am convinced that the M1 0w40 will be beneficial for my use. I will be DD'ing the car, rarely go pass 5k rpm (actually, probably haven't at all since I acquired the car around a month ago), and will never see a track or autocross day for most of the year.

As per some user on here, they have had very decent UOA that shows no sign of problem. In fact, when compared to the recommended TWS 10w60, signs of bearing wear (lead indicator) went down! For a DD oil, the M1 0w40 seems like an excellent choice. Not to mention that it is in fact factory fill for many other exotic/high performance sports cars.

Again, i understand BMW probably recommended 10w60 for factory fill for high temp protection, but of course I am clueless why at the end xD Not a Chemist and will never understand why. I have never ran any oil for any of my high performance cars with a 60 weight before, and honestly, unless the car is seeing redlines for a prolonged period of time, that oil weight class just seems very extreme.

I do however thinking of whether or not to mix some TWS in the 0w40 in the summer time where I will be taking the car to the track 2 or 3 times only. I am guessing half half. Any one tried doing that before? what are the results and personal opinion? Thank you very much guys!

I am thinking of doing the same and switching to 0w40. Any thoughts?

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by hacellular

I am thinking of doing the same and switching to 0w40. Any thoughts?

some of the experts have suggested mixing Mobil 0w-40 with Mobil 15-50. But not mixing Mobil with Castrol as they are different base.

[BMWNORTHAMERICA]

Originally Posted by e92zero

some of the experts have suggested mixing Mobil 0w-40 with Mobil 15-50. But not mixing Mobil with Castrol as they are different base.

I was thinking of going Castrol 0w40 for the winter and hopefully by the summer there will be a little bit more info in regards to the bearing issue. Ive used 0w40 on all my BMW's in the past and it never let me down. Plus 0w40 costs 21 bucks for 5 qrts. at walmart. Will be doing oil changes ever 3k miles. Hopefully this helps till I have enough funds to replace the bearings.

[W///]

Originally Posted by hacellular

I was thinking of going Castrol 0w40 for the winter and hopefully by the summer there will be a little bit more info in regards to the bearing issue. Ive used 0w40 on all my BMW's in the past and it never let me down. Plus 0w40 costs 21 bucks for 5 qrts. at walmart. Will be doing oil changes ever 3k miles. Hopefully this helps till I have enough funds to replace the bearings.

This morning was a perfect example why I run 0W40 (year round at that). My commute is about 20 mins and it was 30F outside today. My car is garaged, and I think it only reached 190F by the time I got to work. I know for a fact that with a thicker oil, it would have been running even cooler (speaking from experience).

FYI, I've tracked with 0W40 before and it did fine (per Blackstone). I regularly do 2 hour mountain runs on this oil as well.

Not trying to say which oil you should or shouldn't run (or mix), that's just my experience with it. Will do bearings when more info on the Clevite bearings come out.

[BMWNORTHAMERICA]

Originally Posted by W///

This morning was a perfect example why I run 0W40 (year round at that). My commute is about 20 mins and it was 30F outside today. My car is garaged, and I think it only reached 190F by the time I got to work. I know for a fact that with a thicker oil, it would have been running even cooler (speaking from experience).

FYI, I've tracked with 0W40 before and it did fine (per Blackstone). I regularly do 2 hour mountain runs on this oil as well.

Not trying to say which oil you should or shouldn't run (or mix), that's just my experience with it. Will do bearings when more info on the Clevite bearings come out.

I really think this 0W40 will do the job if your changing it every 2500 to 3000 miles. So when did you test the oil? Miles, oil type est.. ?

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by hacellular

I was thinking of going Castrol 0w40 for the winter and hopefully by the summer there will be a little bit more info in regards to the bearing issue. Ive used 0w40 on all my BMW's in the past and it never let me down. Plus 0w40 costs 21 bucks for 5 qrts. at walmart. Will be doing oil changes ever 3k miles. Hopefully this helps till I have enough funds to replace the bearings.

The Mobil 0-40 is superior to the Castrol 0-40. You can read up more on it at BITOG

[W///]

Originally Posted by hacellular

I really think this 0W40 will do the job if your changing it every 2500 to 3000 miles. So when did you test the oil? Miles, oil type est.. ?

Usually every 5k miles, and the oil has always had better results than 10W60 at 5k miles, yet alone 7500 miles.

When I do a track day though, I changed it within the week, but my car isn't a daily.

[BMWNORTHAMERICA]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

The Mobil 0-40 is superior to the Castrol 0-40. You can read up more on it at BITOG

really, did not know that I always thought castrol is better.

[BMWNORTHAMERICA]

Originally Posted by W///

Usually every 5k miles, and the oil has always had better results than 10W60 at 5k miles, yet alone 7500 miles.

When I do a track day though, I changed it within the week, but my car isn't a daily.

My car is a daily driver with high miles 123k with no issues at all. no noise at all. Sending in oil test next oil change.