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View Poll Results: Which of the following best applies to you? | |||
I bought my car new and properly followed break-in procedure. | 125 | 65.79% | |
I leased my car new and properly followed break-in procedure. | 37 | 19.47% | |
I bought my car new and completely disregarded break-in procedure. | 19 | 10.00% | |
I leased my car new and completely disregarded break-in procedure. | 9 | 4.74% | |
Voters: 190. You may not vote on this poll |
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07-21-2011, 07:12 PM | #67 |
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OK I suppose they just advise a 2000km break-in and immediate fluids service immediately after just for fun. I'm sure it means nothing. I mean F1 cars don't follow that and they have a much similar application to our cars.
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07-21-2011, 08:08 PM | #68 | |
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The real question is how the car should be treated up until that service, and also whether that service needs to be done more than once (like legion5 mentioned regarding multiple oil changes).
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07-21-2011, 08:09 PM | #69 | |
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The personal problem I have is that people then seem to think that this makes it "the best" way to break in your engine. It is NOT the best way to break in your engine, it's the worst way, that's the whole point. It's the minimum they can get away with while being the most convenient. It would be crazy to expect every owner to change the oil 3+ times within the first few miles and do a set of controlled revs with cool down times, nobody but a select few enthusiasts would do that. I know for a fact though that that's what BMW racing teams do and that's essentially the best way to break your engine in. The problem then comes when you have a set of enthusiasts who begin to think that the worst way to break in your engine (BMW's method) is the best method and they actually spend time and effort to do something that's supposed to save you time and effort. This is the equivalent of spending months carefully researching and manufacturing a fast food cheeseburger to exact specifications. Actually the car does not store enough data about your driving to prove that you drive it harshly. I've specifically asked my dealer to look into this and what will happen is the car will record certain obscure figures like maximum this and that, but I can guarantee that 90% of M3's were gunned at least once during break in so the point is that anything the car stores is going to be very very very vague towards tracking how well you followed their procedure and it would be ridiculous for them to have a problem with it. Your dealer is just trying to scare you.
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07-21-2011, 08:25 PM | #70 | |
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With that said I know for a fact too that if you race an engine around around the clock for 1200 miles without changing the fluids it can and probably will cause damage. So the verdict is: 1200 mile fluid service interval: - Driving super slow = safest - Driving fast occasionally = no stasticialy relevant chance of causing a problem - Driving at 100% load constantly = likely failure With that said, the engine is all but broken in in the first few miles. The reason you want to drive it slow after that is because the fluids have particles in them. No matter what you need a 1200 mile service obviously but if you want to drive it fast from day 1 just change the oil after the first few miles. If you want to do the best possible break in see my link on page 3.
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07-21-2011, 09:20 PM | #72 | |
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Nah just ignore break in completely. I'm sure thrashing an engine with metal shaving laden oil will be perfectly beneficial for longevity.
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07-21-2011, 09:32 PM | #73 | ||
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http://www.jdpower.com/autos/ratings...ings-by-brand/ Don't buy the marketing koolaid. [QUOTE=Rupert330i;10073076] Quote:
A revolutionary engine might be something like Mazda's rotary engine. Now if it had a special break-in procedure you might buy into it more because it has a different type of operation. Just don't believe everything you read ...
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07-21-2011, 09:37 PM | #74 | |
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I think most of the wear come from startup anyway when there is no oil flowing.
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07-22-2011, 10:00 AM | #75 | |
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Go figure |
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07-22-2011, 11:37 AM | #76 |
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I work on and build engines for a living and I can tell you that the BMW break-in procedure is a load of crap. The engine don't need 2000 KM (1200 Miles) to break in. The majority of an engines' break-in is done in the first 100 KM (60 Miles) or first few hours.
When breaking in an engine (once it is up to operating temperature) it is important to put load on the engine to seat the rings. Do a few pulls at full throttle to full RPM in second or third gear (fourth would be more desirable however speeds in fourth gear at redline are pretty crazy). The majority of high performance/race engines that are built by engine builders are dynoed soon as they are built. An engine dyno is the best way to break in an engine but I don't think many people are going to pull their engines to break them in. |
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07-22-2011, 01:44 PM | #77 |
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I've also been doing a "hard" break-in for my cars and motorcycles as well.
Warm up the motor to operating temp avoid highway, I do most driving after midnight, less stop and go driving hitting 70% of the redline for the first 150 miles hitting 90% of the redline from 150~400 miles routinely hit the redline after 400 miles (with the engine warmed up of course) lots of engine brake and varying RPMs |
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07-22-2011, 01:46 PM | #78 |
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accidentally overshot it once because i was used to the paddles on my 335 and was driving with one hand so i shifted using left paddle thinking it was up, but really downshifted to 2nd at 50 :/
i love how i remember that ahaha anyways other than that, i followed it to the T |
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07-22-2011, 01:46 PM | #79 | |
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What about the break in of the transmission and other drive components though? It might not be bad for the motor to be redlined early on, but how about the effect on other components?
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07-23-2011, 12:41 AM | #80 | |
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07-23-2011, 02:29 AM | #81 |
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