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07-09-2009, 02:00 AM | #89 |
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Looking good! Thanks for the pics and updates!
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07-09-2009, 03:55 PM | #90 |
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So cool. Great progress. I'm sure you will be thrilled with the outcome. As far as the interest in selling a few of these goes - it looks promising. However, from my perspective it is a bit like polishing a turd. The OEM system is far too heavy and far too ugly to have such fine and detailed customization thrown at it. I'm still considering an aftermarket system with a bypass that can be added entirely externally.
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07-09-2009, 11:58 PM | #92 | |
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-------------------------------------------------- [Long Term Valve update] For anyone considering buying Race Ready Valves, you should read this first: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740 Changing gears, I spent some time tonight messing with the switch section of this project. My plan was to embed the wireless receiver inside of the oem headlight assembly, but there was not a lot of room and the buttons didn't line up that great. Also, it would have been hard to retain a good button feel (you know, sort of long throw and squishy). So, I was forced to put the wireless remote externally. When I took a good look at the BMW circuit board, I realized that with a couple mods, I could actually use the switch assembly to activate my wireless controller. Onto the pics! This shows the three soldering points I had to make. I tested the pads with a multimeter first to make sure that I was hitting the right pads for each button (open and close). I drilled a small hole in the enclosure for the exiting wires. This shot shows all of the internals of the oem headlight assembly and my parts. Yes, those are legos. I've soldered on the other end of the leads to the oem circuit board now. I'm pressing one of the button pads to illuminate the led (left edge of the remote as shown). Interestingly, there are two pads for each button - the one to the right of my finger is identical in its operation. Oh, btw careful when removing the stock parts from the car, I sliced the hell out of my finger - the edges are really sharp. These are two lego parts that I assembled. I didn't create this idea, its fairly common with the fog light mod guys, but I used different parts than them to get the right feel. I've epoxied them together so they dont fall apart [UPDATE: after 1.5 years, still holding strong and feels great!]. This is showing a step that was necessary so that my fog lights didnt come on when I press the buttons. I snipped the pins correlating to the two buttons so that they did not make contact to the car's wiring harness. I didn't snip the third common pin because it was shared with the center dial as well. So far, the car doesn't seem to mind! Everything is in its place now ready for snapping back together.Note that I filled the backside of the lego blocks. I found that after a lot of button presses, the rubber pad things from the circuit board tended to wander into the middle of the lego block. This also gave the button a better feel, perhaps because its using both pads now instead of maybe one. Testing the buttons, all is well. The top button will open the valves, the bottom will close them. I hooked up the wiring to test the assembly and check the range. I was able to go a decent 40 feet and still make it work. This is a decent remote setup. It will loose some range when installed in the dash, but not much probably, and it will certainly be strong enough to reach the controller box in the trunk. Valve open.. The rest of the surrounds and the left button blank are on now. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I just used industrial velcro to attach it to the back of the headlight switch assembly. the batteries in these remotes are pretty good, so I'm not too worried about having to remove the switch to put a new one in. I didnt take any tools to remove the dash panels, just grippy fingers. The dash pieces are just held into place with those blue resistance pegs. A gently slow tug is all you need to get them off, or push them on. You can see the connector here for the headlight switch. You slide that lighter gray bit left to right to release the connector. The headlight switch has a lip there so you have to take the vent piece off first. Looking stock! I may design and cut some vinyl stickers of little tail pipes to go over the buttons later. Thanks for watching and the comments!
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DON'T BUY Race Ready Performance electronic cutout valves. Here's why: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740 Last edited by Subw00er; 05-12-2011 at 11:17 PM.. |
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07-10-2009, 08:15 AM | #94 |
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Really amazing work. I can't wait to hear it in operation.
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07-10-2009, 10:34 AM | #96 |
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This is fascinating... I love the ideas, the customization, and the detailed reporting!!
Thanks for keeping my attention for more than 2 seconds. I can't wait to see/hear the finished product. |
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07-10-2009, 12:20 PM | #97 |
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can't wait til you bolt it on
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07-10-2009, 01:06 PM | #98 | |
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Like the rest of the project, the button work is fantastic. Would be a good option for me if I go a similar route except I already used one of those for the rear fog light mod. Eager to see a video!
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07-10-2009, 02:29 PM | #99 |
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07-10-2009, 03:48 PM | #100 | |
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The other is to use a trademark swirl pattern that Sam does to a lot of his artwork. Here is an example of the finish: or It is hard to photograph, but it looks pretty nice in person. I am not sure if it really fits an exhaust per se, but Id' like to do it sort of as a trademark thing. The other sort of negative part would be that it might be really distracting from the rear, and would definitely kill my "keeping stock" look. Your thoughts? Part of me just wants to paint the thing in black, maybe powder coat or something. The other idea idea we had was to make some sort of small plaque with that design and Sam's trademark, and weld it on... then just clean up the exhaust. BTW, if you are interested in art, have a look at Sam's website. He is a welder by trade, but at heart, he is an accomplished artist. This is his new website: http://samuelegallery.com BTW, about the tips.. there have been some manufacturing delays, not sure they will make it on or not. We'll see. Are there any other vendors selling black chrome tips for the e92?
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07-11-2009, 08:12 AM | #102 |
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Great Job! Can't wait to hear the sound.... I am amazed with the work you have been doing, keep on posting the update and Thanks for sharing your excellent works.
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07-13-2009, 10:44 AM | #105 |
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We may finish up tonight!
Any opinions on the finish - swirl vs buffed vs just cleaned up?
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07-13-2009, 12:10 PM | #107 |
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+1 on the no swirl. Swirl is for bar tables, architecture, art, etc., not a muffler. A polish might look OK.
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07-13-2009, 12:22 PM | #108 |
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No on the swirl. (Not that I don't like it--I do, it's awesome work--but just not for an exhaust. Art yes, exhaust no.)
I like the vision of keeping the stock appearance, so just clean it up to those "standards" and you're done. If it's too polished or another color that defeats the idea of keeping it stock. Of course, you can always do other things in the future if keeping it stock looking is no longer a goal a stock look for now doesn't restrict future options. |
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