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      02-15-2018, 01:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M__3__R__A__G__E View Post
The ///M Tax is a cruel mistress
It's nothing new. Years back when I had an old Jaguar one of the rocker switches needed replacement. The price for the Jaguar switch was $65. My mechanic advised me that the Triumph Stag used exactly the same switch, and the price for it was under $20.
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      02-15-2018, 01:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
Pretty damn cheap considering they didn't need to make them and you could instead go spend $1200 on a new headlight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/super-...oxy-92665.html
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      02-15-2018, 01:52 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carenthuziast View Post
I'd just love to see how long that repair lasts.
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      02-15-2018, 07:15 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
If the shifter is hitting the console trim, this is not your problem. "Lube" isn't going to fix it.

You'll need to rebuild the entire shifter assembly.
Yeah sorry that was a miss-description on my part. There was a sort of plasticy noise so I assumed the shifter was hitting the sides of the trim but its coming nowhere near it, so i think its something where the rod meets the shift cup, I'll have to remove the trim and take a look
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      02-15-2018, 07:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSilk View Post
Agreed. I have a 2008 with over 100,000 miles, and it still drives as well as it did new.
Car was totally stock and had a bunch of carbon fiber bits on the car, if it were modded the guy would have been too lazy to take them off as he left all the other stuff on the car.

The car seems more neglected than anything else (apart from oil changes). the interior and exhaust pipes were really dirty but I've since got that cleaned up.


I actually did a swap to ZCP wheel yesterday and the car does still have a slight vibration to the steering wheel around the same speeds but noticeably less so i think the 220 wheels may have had a bend in them somewhere, nothing that I'm able to visually detect.


ANYYYWAY who has a list of mods for me? I know I cant make this thing any faster, but I can make it sound and turn better I understand.

and hopefully last longer (http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1364655)
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      02-15-2018, 07:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrubenstein View Post
Use an app like Image Size to size the images for uploading.

Replace your shifter, preferably with an Autosolutions kit. You existing assembly is clearly worn out.

Wheel shake is generally a balance issue, although it could also be worn parts. It seems that the front control arms are a weak point on these cars based on my experience. Don't just get it aligned blindly. Have the bushing and balljoint condition checked first.
thanks for the rec got a pic attached!
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      02-16-2018, 07:46 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
I'd just love to see how long that repair lasts.
Low risk, high reward.
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      02-19-2018, 11:00 PM   #30
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Recommendations? Pass this one on to someone else...find one that has been worshiped (aka Garage Queen) that drives like a knife thru hot butter and when the speedometer is saying 165 your water bottle has barely a ripple
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      02-20-2018, 07:45 PM   #31
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i bought it, but these are good recommendations
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      02-20-2018, 07:47 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loveskiing View Post
Recommendations? Pass this one on to someone else...find one that has been worshiped (aka Garage Queen) that drives like a knife thru hot butter and when the speedometer is saying 165 your water bottle has barely a ripple
i bought it, but these are good recommendations
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      02-21-2018, 06:58 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredicus View Post
Headlights are probably just a couple broke tabs. Super common.



Fix is easy:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/63117182519/
Yeah that wont hold up... band aid fix at best

Quote:
Originally Posted by thatg View Post
Car was totally stock and had a bunch of carbon fiber bits on the car, if it were modded the guy would have been too lazy to take them off as he left all the other stuff on the car.

The car seems more neglected than anything else (apart from oil changes). the interior and exhaust pipes were really dirty but I've since got that cleaned up.


I actually did a swap to ZCP wheel yesterday and the car does still have a slight vibration to the steering wheel around the same speeds but noticeably less so i think the 220 wheels may have had a bend in them somewhere, nothing that I'm able to visually detect.


ANYYYWAY who has a list of mods for me? I know I cant make this thing any faster, but I can make it sound and turn better I understand.

and hopefully last longer (http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1364655)

Why are you asking us for mod recommendations? I would do what you like, not what others like....
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      02-21-2018, 10:38 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///M3Fresh View Post
Yeah that wont hold up... band aid fix at best
Mine have been holding for 3+ years now but alright...

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      02-22-2018, 01:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredicus View Post
Mine have been holding for 3+ years now but alright...

Nice, glad its working for you. I've seen a couple people's headlights that I've retrofitted from Custom projectors to simple paint/LED rings that had issues with them. Surprisingly, JB weld did work better for them.
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      02-22-2018, 07:59 PM   #36
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Welcome, nice pickup As others have stated, wheel alignment/balancing is critical with these cars.
You might want to replace the MT fluid, which might improve the feel a bit.
At 70k you're going to be due for motor mounts and throttle actuators soon. Something to keep an eye on.
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      02-22-2018, 09:21 PM   #37
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As others have said, the steering shakes are most likely tire related. Fresh rubber should take care of that.
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      03-25-2018, 08:04 PM   #38
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Update: the shifter turned out to somehow be the shift knob being loose on the shifter rod. Just threw a small piece of paper towel between there and it got rid of the noise. I got a balancing and think the steering wheel vibrations may have gotten worse somehow so going to have to go back and see what else could be going on there. I think ive discovered that somehow the drivers side headlight is not secured properly. If i tap the drivers side lens it shakes a bit and the passenger side has no movement to it at all.

Question for people with 6mt cars, there are 2 noises i notice, right around 40mph there is a drivetrain noise that is only present when i’m on the gas. When i take my foot off the gas or pop the car out of gear the noise goes away.

Another noise is a sort of belt spinning type of noise when the clutch is not pressed when the car is idling. As soon as the cluth is pressed the noise goes away. This was also present on my 335i so i assume this ones normal.

One last question...for this post. Does anyone notice on startup the car is extremely difficult to drive. It bounces on the throttle in first and second while warming up where you’re in gear but the car bounces up and down on the throttle giving you the same feeling as a bad gear shift. This completely goes away once the car is warmed up.
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      03-25-2018, 11:26 PM   #39
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You really outta just take it to an indy to get some sort of post purchase inspection or something. I'm sure they can answer your questions better than we can virtually.

On the other hand...
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      04-04-2018, 08:07 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
I'd just love to see how long that repair lasts.
So I actually hadn’t clicked on the link till just now but this is what i ended up trying. Only my borken tab was underneath the headlight. The tabe that secures the light to the black plastic housing somehow broke and the headlight would bounce there. I took out the headlight and tried gorilla glue epoxy. Haven’t driven on it yet but it feels as shakey in the housin as it ever did. I think i’ll have to find a new headlight or maybe the bottom black plastic piece can somehow be purchased seperately and swapped over. Heres a picture of the broken tab. Youre looking at the corner piece that sits on the edge of the drivers side bumper, onfortunately when you fasten in all the other bolts it seems to just pull the headlight away from the tab.

Ive also got a worn you joint on my driveshaft making a clunking noise, for those of you he said the car was driven hard...i submit
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      04-05-2018, 10:48 AM   #41
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I have a 6MT, on first start it is normal for the car to be jerky if you will until it warms up a bit. For me what I have noticed is slowly accelerate on startup and going around the first couple turns of the day. After that I don't have issues.
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      04-05-2018, 11:36 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatg View Post

Another noise is a sort of belt spinning type of noise when the clutch is not pressed when the car is idling. As soon as the cluth is pressed the noise goes away. This was also present on my 335i so i assume this ones normal.
This is a common complaint and it is normal for some reason. I have it on my car and there is a thread on here about it...
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      04-05-2018, 11:39 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatg View Post

One last question...for this post. Does anyone notice on startup the car is extremely difficult to drive. It bounces on the throttle in first and second while warming up where you’re in gear but the car bounces up and down on the throttle giving you the same feeling as a bad gear shift. This completely goes away once the car is warmed up.
I believe you are describing the infamous 'M-hop'. I don't believe anyone know the reason or solution, but it happens and is relatively normal. When mine would start to do it, i would just press the clutch in to take it out of gear.
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      04-05-2018, 05:14 PM   #44
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There is a thread or two about this on here with some contentious debate on if it is normal or not.

Used to happen to me all the time but no more. Pretty sure I just learned how to drive the car correctly.
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