Rebuilt Engine Run-In

[satinghostrider]

Hey Guys,

I have my car running back on the roads with the rebuilt engine and its heaps smoother than the stock one I had which was damaged. I have been driving the car for 3 days now and I have lost 2 bars from the Oil Level in the iDrive so far.

I should think this is normal as this engine has not been pre-run in as it is rebuilt thoroughly. I have consistently checked for oil leaks and everything seems to be very well put back. My first oil drain I had very fine metal bits when I cut the oil filter open which is normal. I have clocked 860km so far and would be doing a next oil change at 1000km.

I am concerned with the engine oil consumption and what levels it should be. I would be most thankful if you guys can point out any thing I should look out for like break-in procedure for such rebuilt engine, etc. I am currently keeping my RPM's below 4k and driving it.

Pls advise the best way to run-in since most of you guys may have been through it for some of the other cars you might have performed it on.

Thanks in Advance!

[GreenPlease]

I don't normally follow the M3 forums... what happened to your engine?

[Malek@MRF]

Yo,

Give it some time. Break it in harder than you are accustomed to so the oil rings seal up better.

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of pistons did you use? (specs) and what were the machining specs of the repaired block?

[m33]

Well when I fist picked up my M3 I had to put a quart of oil before the first 1,200 mile service ...

[satinghostrider]

Originally Posted by GreenPlease

I don't normally follow the M3 forums... what happened to your engine?

Its a long story. You can do a search on my nick.

[satinghostrider]

Originally Posted by Malekreza11

Yo,

Give it some time. Break it in harder than you are accustomed to so the oil rings seal up better.

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of pistons did you use? (specs) and what were the machining specs of the repaired block?

Bro, I am keeping my revs below 4k and driving it normally. Not hard as am phobic after what happened.

Pistons are fully forged which were custom work. I am not sure what you mean of machining specs. Can you please elaborate?

[Malek@MRF]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

Bro, I am keeping my revs below 4k and driving it normally. Not hard as am phobic after what happened.

Pistons are fully forged which were custom work. I am not sure what you mean of machining specs. Can you please elaborate?

what it was honed/bored to exactly, and the specs of the pistons.

Do you have pictures of the new cross-hatching on the cylinder walls?

Rev it up a bit higher and put her under more load.

[Maseroche]

I'm glad that you got your engine back and in the car! That was a nightmare that you've been through.

[donovan]

Damn Horror stories ..

[Krozi]

Glad to hear your car is running again, who ended up picking up the tab?

[montreal red]

Originally Posted by Krozi

Glad to hear your car is running again, who ended up picking up the tab?

i am pretty sure OP picked up the tab since his warranty from BMW was void... it was an unfortunate situation. i am pretty sure that it must have been a huge bill..

to OP: hope your engine doesnt give you any more issues. good luck!!

[satinghostrider]

Originally Posted by Krozi

Glad to hear your car is running again, who ended up picking up the tab?

I picked up the tab cause BMW did not want to warrant the car due to the top speed limiter defeat.

[satinghostrider]

Originally Posted by Maseroche

I'm glad that you got your engine back and in the car! That was a nightmare that you've been through.

Yeah it was a nightmare because BMW Asia has a bunch of idiots sitting there. First they say nothing is wrong with the car , then void warranty real quickly. I can understand if they want to void the warranty but they dont have to lie to say the cars OK when its not. Thats really irresponsible of them. Luckily I knew something was really wrong cause I could feel it and am very sensitive to any kind of weird sound the car makes. In my previous thread, you can see that I was right all along while BMW was wrong is saying my car's perfectly fine. Of course they had to say that because they knew it needed a new engine I think. And it maked them look real stupid when I sent the photos to BMW in Germany.


Here is a reference of how the engine looked like when it was stripped down in Germany by a private garage who did my rebuild. All the photos are in the thread as provided below :

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379712

[satinghostrider]

Originally Posted by Malekreza11

Yo,

Give it some time. Break it in harder than you are accustomed to so the oil rings seal up better.

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of pistons did you use? (specs) and what were the machining specs of the repaired block?

I did alot of changes to the quality of the components while still maintaining the stock configuration. Since this rebuilt engine is so well balanced and blueprinted that I can feel even the difference after driving the car. It is not placebo effect because I have driven a few friends M3 back to back after driving my car with the rebuilt engine and all who has even tried my car said it feel a fuck load smoother than the stock M3. The engine just wants to move so willingly without any hesitation. Small things like switching the car off after driving, I could hear the engine just switch off without any sound after that. Thats how light the internals are. The stock ones when you switch off the engine, you still hear the internals coming to a halt within 1-1.5 seconds.

Here is a few photos of the motor which was sleeved with fully custom forged pistons designed to work with the lining. I am already 1000KM into the run-in process and the engines feels very very smooth. Everything moves so much faster and smoother because of lighter components like Carillo Rods, Forged Pistons, Coated Bearings, etc. Also, the flywheel was balanced with the crank perfectly as the stock one was 1.3kgs off balance. I can honestly feel the difference now from what I had before.

I have done the 2nd oil change today and there is very few pieces of metal bits from the run-in process now. I will progressively load the engine slowly as I am halfway through the run-in now. Engine is highly responsive and everything moves like there is no resistance. I am glad it worked out much better this way as BMW Asia in Singapore wanted to repair the engine at a ridiculous price and I know I would be in and out of the workshop if they ever did that.

Here are some photos of the pics I have to date. I need to check with the builder if he has more pics. But I think they look really nice!













Here is a reference of how the engine looked like when it was stripped down in Germany by a private garage who did my rebuild. All the photos are in the thread as provided below :

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379712

[IMG]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

Hey Guys,

I have my car running back on the roads with the rebuilt engine and its heaps smoother than the stock one I had which was damaged. I have been driving the car for 3 days now and I have lost 2 bars from the Oil Level in the iDrive so far.

I should think this is normal as this engine has not been pre-run in as it is rebuilt thoroughly. I have consistently checked for oil leaks and everything seems to be very well put back. My first oil drain I had very fine metal bits when I cut the oil filter open which is normal. I have clocked 860km so far and would be doing a next oil change at 1000km.

I am concerned with the engine oil consumption and what levels it should be. I would be most thankful if you guys can point out any thing I should look out for like break-in procedure for such rebuilt engine, etc. I am currently keeping my RPM's below 4k and driving it.

Pls advise the best way to run-in since most of you guys may have been through it for some of the other cars you might have performed it on.

Thanks in Advance!

this is how i broke my E36 M3 in after a rebuilt:
used non synthetic oil for the first 3k and changed it every 1k
after the first 1k i took the car to higher RPMs but never stayed at the same RPM for more than 20 sec.
in the 3k i started hitting the rev-limiter.
after 3k i started using 10w-60 and the car runs strong on the track.

[Maseroche]

Yeah it was your experience that made me decide not to mess around with the engine. BMW ME is not so far off the guys at your end so why play with matches. Cheers for the update and best of luck mate.

[m5driver77]

elmariachi, could you pm the details from the shop that did your engine rebuild? Anf id you can the price of the rebuild. cheers

[JCtx]

Isn't the S65 built with the minimum cylinder wall thickness ? I also doubt it can be made much smoother than it already is. Hope yours stand the test of time (and miles). Good luck.

[satinghostrider]

Originally Posted by elp_jc

Isn't the S65 built with the minimum cylinder wall thickness ? I also doubt it can be made much smoother than it already is. Hope yours stand the test of time (and miles). Good luck.

Not sure about that but I am running liners on my motor. The smoothness is from the fact that everything was balanced and coupled with the fact that I am running lighter intervals like forged piston and carillo H beam rods. It's a difference that is very obvious when you drive.

[ersin]

Originally Posted by elp_jc

Isn't the S65 built with the minimum cylinder wall thickness ? I also doubt it can be made much smoother than it already is. Hope yours stand the test of time (and miles). Good luck.

Sounds like you're talking about the S54 in the E46 M3?


OP,

Good luck. You seem to have been treated pretty badly in the past. I hope everything works in your favor in the future.

As for break-in, did the shop give you any instructions? Break-in oil type? RPMS? If not, I would follow the BMW routine: stay below 5500 rpm for first 1200 miles then get an oil change. Do vary your speed during this period, i.e. do not stay at one speed in the same gear for very long. Despite limiting the maximum RPM, don't baby it. Drive it hard. If you go over 5500 RPM then no big deal. Be safe.


Cheers.

[satinghostrider]

Originally Posted by ersin

Sounds like you're talking about the S54 in the E46 M3?


OP,

Good luck. You seem to have been treated pretty badly in the past. I hope everything works in your favor in the future.

As for break-in, did the shop give you any instructions? Break-in oil type? RPMS? If not, I would follow the BMW routine: stay below 5500 rpm for first 1200 miles then get an oil change. Do vary your speed during this period, i.e. do not stay at one speed in the same gear for very long. Despite limiting the maximum RPM, don't baby it. Drive it hard. If you go over 5500 RPM then no big deal. Be safe.


Cheers.

Thank You Ersin for the load of confidence. Yes everything seems to be really good now. I made a very good choice in getting it rebuilt instead of repairing it at the BMW Dealership here. I know they are severely incompetent and would only extend the problems further.

Yeah they said to stay below 5k RPM till 2000KM and then get an oil change. Then progressively push it to redline after that. I have been varying my RPMs so far especially in the first 3 gears where I been giving it short sprints to 5k and backing off. This should let the oil rings seals pretty well. So far am very happy with what I am seeing and everything is running a much tighter tolerance than a stock S65 engine so running in carefully is a must.

[DreX3M]

All the best Elmariachi. Take your time running in.