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[Hujan]

Originally Posted by slicer

Most likely:
18x9.5 et+22 front & 18x10.5 et+22 (note that these are TE37's which typically have these specs. TE37SL's usually have et20 rear wheels (same sizes))
265/35/18 front & 285/35/18 rear
Hankook RS3

The Wheel Master hath spoken.

[EDMJAY]

Originally Posted by anthony @ eas

Sick!!

[css]

just wondering, how do you guys get other TE37s or 19 TE37SLs but on website only the 18 TE37SL are suitable and available to the M3? is it like a special order or does rays only do it for a batch order?

[D@AP]

[Will7.62]

Posted pics before, but I've added a few more mods since my last post... What do you guys and gals think?

[AzE90]

Here is mine. 19" TE37sl's +22/+21, 10.5/9.5 on 295 rear 255 front :

[swifty]

Quick question...

Anyone running 5mm hub-centric (H&R, Turner, Apex) spacers with Volk te37? Any vibration or issues? The Volks have beveled center bores, correct?

[slicer]

Originally Posted by swifty

Quick question...

Anyone running 5mm hub-centric (H&R, Turner, Apex) spacers with Volk te37? Any vibration or issues? The Volks have beveled center bores, correct?

There is no such thing as a 5mm hub-centric spacer.

I have however used 5mm spacers with many different wheels without any issues (including Volk te37's). The key is to, make sure the hub and wheel is clean, use the correct length lugs (or even better convert to studs), and torque the lugs with the wheels un-weighted in the air (this ensures that the wheel is sitting flat on the hub). The only wheel that I have found to not be compatible with 5mm spacers is BBS E88 / E05. Those wheels have too extreme of a beveled center bore. Everything else I have tried had enough contact with the hub protrusion to remain hub-centric after a 5mm spacer install.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by AzE90

Here is mine. 19" TE37sl's +22/+21, 10.5/9.5 on 295 rear 255 front :

The rear is going to rub the paint off your fender... 10:00 driver's side. 295's don't work with that offset.

[swifty]

Originally Posted by slicer

There is no such thing as a 5mm hub-centric spacer.

I have however used 5mm spacers with many different wheels without any issues (including Volk te37's). The key is to, make sure the hub and wheel is clean, use the correct length lugs (or even better convert to studs), and torque the lugs with the wheels un-weighted in the air (this ensures that the wheel is sitting flat on the hub). The only wheel that I have found to not be compatible with 5mm spacers is BBS E88 / E05. Those wheels have too extreme of a beveled center bore. Everything else I have tried had enough contact with the hub protrusion to remain hub-centric after a 5mm spacer install.

Thanks for the instructive info on installing the spacers. Already converted to studs but will make sure my tire shop does it this way.

Also I assumed the same thing as I never heard of 5mm hubcentric spacers but that's how Turner is marketing them. (http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-20...lications.aspx)

[slicer]

Originally Posted by swifty

Thanks for the instructive info on installing the spacers. Already converted to studs but will make sure my tire shop does it this way.

Also I assumed the same thing as I never heard of 5mm hubcentric spacers but that's how Turner is marketing them. (http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-20...lications.aspx)

When you read their footnote I would say they are describing them accurately. Edit - I have found that every wheel I have used (BBS street, Volk, Advan, HRE, BMW OEM) except for the BBS motorsports wheels do make contact with the hub after the install of 5mm spacers. TMS needs to make that disclaimer because there are some wheels that may not remain hub-centric after the install of a 5mm spacer. I am a big fan of TMS spacers; that's what I use.

[swifty]

Originally Posted by slicer

When you read their footnote I would say they are describing them accurately. I am a big fan of TMS spacers; that's what I use.

Yes and that footnote is what is scaring me.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by swifty

Yes and that footnote is what is scaring me.

Don't worry about it. You will be fine as long as they are installed correctly. I always install my own wheels because I don't trust tire shops....

[swifty]

^ Thanks and will do

[acidandroid]

Originally Posted by Sam@ModeCarbon

Motorsport.

this TE37 color is so sick!

is it pressed graphite without sticker??
or custum painted?

[acidandroid]

hey guys, quick question:

i'm almost set to get a set of TE37SL in 18s, 9.5 front and 10.5 rear
don't if it's just me, but the 9.5/10.5 combo,
to me it looks like the 9.5 fronts spokes are not concave enough like the rear
if it's correct

is there more aggressive offset in for 9.5 front?
or is it a good idea to do 10.5 +22 in the front? will 10.5 fit 255~265 tires fine?

thanks in advance

[slicer]

Originally Posted by acidandroid

hey guys, quick question:

i'm almost set to get a set of TE37SL in 18s, 9.5 front and 10.5 rear
don't if it's just me, but the 9.5/10.5 combo,
to me it looks like the 9.5 fronts spokes are not concave enough like the rear
if it's correct

is there more aggressive offset in for 9.5 front?
or is it a good idea to do 10.5 +22 in the front? will 10.5 fit 255~265 tires fine?

thanks in advance

The 9.5 et35 version is flat faced. The 9.5" et22 Te37/sl has pretty much the same concave as the rear 10.5 et22. If you look closely the difference is the lip size. The only reason to run 10.5" in the front is to run square 275's front and rear. Be prepared for some serious camber, possibly spacers, and general fitment challenges to fit a 10.5" in the front. Do not put a 255 or 265 width tire on a 10.5". I wouldn't run anything narrower than a 275 and even that will look stretched IMO.

I'm not sure how you can look at this picture and think that the front spokes are significantly less concave than the front....

[acidandroid]

slicer, thanks for the reply, you definately the wheels guru here....lol

i really hope what you say is correct, because i don't like stretched tires
but i've been going through this thread at least 5 times, my eyes keep telling me that front spokes are less concave than the rear (maybe it's the camera angle?)

but i found this picture which shows 3 different faces of TE37SL
it shows that 9.5 +22 has face 2 which is a bit less concave than 10.5 +22 which is face 3

,



please correct me if i'm wrong, 9.5 will be much easier for fitment, but if it's true 10.5 is more concave than 9.5, then i want to try to figure out 10.5 square set up

thanks!

[acidandroid]

also got question about square setup,
i see most track car run square setup on M3, is the reason to get more grip in the front to improve turn in?
but M3 seems to be oversteer a bit already, wouldn't a square setup make the car more oversteer?

if i have a stagger wheel setup, and run 275 square, that's ok right?
what's the downside of stagger wheels with square tires compared to square wheels and tires??

if i have to run 10.5 in the front, the spacer is to clear aftermarket coilovers, but even more difficult to fir the tires right?
and what # in camber setup i'll be looking at?

[InspireSiR]

Good find. Did you see a similar picture for the 19" by chance?

Originally Posted by acidandroid

slicer, thanks for the reply, you definately the wheels guru here....lol

i really hope what you say is correct, because i don't like stretched tires
but i've been going through this thread at least 5 times, my eyes keep telling me that front spokes are less concave than the rear (maybe it's the camera angle?)

but i found this picture which shows 3 different faces of TE37SL
it shows that 9.5 +22 has face 2 which is a bit less concave than 10.5 +22 which is face 3

,



please correct me if i'm wrong, 9.5 will be much easier for fitment, but if it's true 10.5 is more concave than 9.5, then i want to try to figure out 10.5 square set up

thanks!

[slicer]

Originally Posted by acidandroid

but i found this picture which shows 3 different faces of TE37SL
it shows that 9.5 +22 has face 2 which is a bit less concave than 10.5 +22 which is face 3

please correct me if i'm wrong, 9.5 will be much easier for fitment, but if it's true 10.5 is more concave than 9.5, then i want to try to figure out 10.5 square set up

thanks!

OK, 10.5" is SLIGHTLY more concave. Not worth the hassle in any way shape or form. Why the obsession with concave? I don't get it; who cares if the face is 1/8" more concave? You are telling me that you can actually see a difference in concave in the picture I posted? If so, you are more obsessed about the details than I am; and that says a lot!

[D@AP]

Originally Posted by slicer

OK, 10.5" is SLIGHTLY more concave. Not worth the hassle in any way shape or form. Why the obsession with concave? I don't get it; who cares if the face is 1/8" more concave? You are telling me that you can actually see a difference in concave in the picture I posted? If so, you are more obsessed about the details than I am; and that says a lot!

True, it is alot of work just to make sure you have a concave Face 3 all around. If you are willing to go through with all the work for it, then it is worth it for you. If not then the face 2 up front isn't so bad.