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07-13-2010, 08:52 AM | #67 |
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07-13-2010, 09:13 AM | #68 | |
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07-13-2010, 10:01 AM | #69 |
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As I understand it, the vast majority of clear bras have a glossy finish - which is fine on a shiny metallic paint, but not on a matte finish.
I called Premier (a top notch clear bra shop) and asked if they had anything for matte finishes. First they said no, then they said they had something called Satin Guard (i think) and that it works on a case by case basis on matte finishes. They had not ever put a film over frozen gray. That said, I'd def be interested to know if you have info on a film that will match the appearance of the fg. Let us know! |
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07-13-2010, 11:18 AM | #71 | |
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Dave
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07-13-2010, 11:40 AM | #72 | |
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07-13-2010, 12:23 PM | #73 |
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On that note - rather than a special flat clear coat, why doesn't someone just make a flat clear bra for the whole car? Basically, a transparent matte wrap.
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07-13-2010, 04:41 PM | #74 |
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Saw this car at Munich airport and my first thought was that it looks cool. My second thought, after seeing the paint at an angle was that it would be a beast to maintain. Just from being the airport and having hands on it all day you could see what looked like blemishes forming on the surface. As a collector item, cool paint job. I doubt I'd ever buy one for driving around, though.
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07-13-2010, 05:12 PM | #75 |
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07-13-2010, 07:04 PM | #76 |
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ROTFLMAO
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07-14-2010, 12:54 AM | #77 |
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Waxing it with a standard wax would ruin the finish immediately. Washing it like a normal car wouldn't ruin it immediately but if treated like a standard paint finish, over time, the matte finish will start to burnish. Especially near any raised edges. This should surprise no one who understands physics.
Matte clear bra is available. Like someone said earlier, the best option would be to wrap a standard car in matte clear bra. You could do it over any color. You can remove it when it starts to look like crap. Polyurethane is way more durable than paint. |
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07-14-2010, 02:57 AM | #78 |
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Folks please stop the absurd comments that the car has no clear coat. Of course it does, just a different clear coat. And of course just like you can repolish a regular clear coat, if any slight burnishing happend to make FG look a bit too gloss you can repair that as well with a very light and careful "polish". This "polish" would be way too aggressive for any clear coat in any sort of decent condition but would be perfect for adjusting the FG. I'd also guess that overall FG would be more durable than a regular gloss color. Small scratches and swirls that happen in a regular clear coat will be nearly invisible in the FG. Matte finishes in most substances are naturally more durable and easier to repair. I'm not guaranteeing that but I do suspect it will be the case. As long as I could find a good matte wax to use I'd love to have FG. The finish is beautiful IMHO.
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07-14-2010, 03:00 AM | #79 |
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if i got this, i'd immediately wrap it with shiny SG vinyl, to protect the matte finish
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07-14-2010, 05:58 AM | #80 | |
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07-14-2010, 06:08 AM | #81 |
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This is a panel; on an R6 that I shot. This whole black panel used to be dull. its been rubbed on and then polished somewhat over the past 4 yrs. You can see it now has a dull shine. click on the link below |
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07-14-2010, 06:11 AM | #82 |
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07-14-2010, 06:16 AM | #83 | |
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07-14-2010, 06:18 AM | #84 |
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http://yhst-95252586239475.us-dc1-ed...75_2115_393623
This is a regular clear coat before being color sanded . Yes you use sandpaper to make it even shinier Last edited by Reznick; 07-14-2010 at 06:36 AM.. Reason: added more info |
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07-14-2010, 07:33 AM | #85 | |
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I know exactly what polish does. I've been detailing for almost 20 years. You start with a comparatively rough polish and move to finer and finer polishes until you're doing nothing more than shining the paint. Your last step before polishing should have no abrasive action at all. If there are no abrasives there is no polishing action. Washing is just like that last step, there should be no abrasive action. If your matte finish "shines up" over time your'e doing something very wrong. Also, orbitals, by their very nature can't burn paint. They don't spin fast enough nor do they spend enough time in one spot to build enough heat to burn paint. You meant a polisher, which is high speed and a basic rotary design instead of an eccentric motion and can very easily cause holograms or worse, burn edges or even flat panels if you're not careful. Last edited by quality_sound; 07-14-2010 at 12:57 PM.. |
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07-14-2010, 09:54 AM | #86 |
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We had a vinyl wrapped M5 in yesterday and I thought it looked great. It gave the frozen black appearance but is way more durable and in case it's ever damaged, a particular panel can be rewrapped. He said that he paid $3000 for it.
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07-14-2010, 10:04 AM | #87 | |
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Your right about the polishers movement , but wrong about its possible effects.If you're that sure about an "orbital" not burning a clear coat, grab a good abrasive ,slap some on your hood and hold the polisher there for about 5 minutes. Maybe you wouldn't do it with a light polish that you pick up a PeP Boys, but something with even a medium cut to it will scar the clearcoat. So, as you understand how a polish works, then I still don't see how you can't understand that an abrasive CAN dull shiny paint but also leave a "shine" on a dull surface. If you think you're not scratching your car EVERY time you wash it, your nuts.... Last edited by Reznick; 07-14-2010 at 10:16 AM.. Reason: added more |
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07-14-2010, 10:05 AM | #88 | |
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