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04-14-2009, 06:04 PM | #1 |
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Heatcycling? R compounds
Just ordered some Hoosier R6's from TireRack to mount on the stock 18's that I just picked up but forgot to have them heatcycled by TR, called TR back but the order is already been pulled for shipping (less then 30min from time I placed order until time I called)
how can I heat cycle them w/out running at the actual track, then unmounting to allow to cool off for optimal tire life? I know this is probably impossible with out running at an actual track but it doesn't hurt to ask. Going to call some race shops in my area and see what they tell me also. My feel for heat cycling is that its BS and more of a marketing gimmick but for just $15 per tire I would have paid it for the peace of mind, now I'm stuck so what should I do, just forget it and drive on them or (your input here)???? I might just have to drive w/ them for my first session get them up to temperature, then take them off and run w/ my 19's the rest of the day this will kill my tires though
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04-14-2009, 07:34 PM | #2 |
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I've thought about the same issue. I can't imagine you can get the tires hot enough on the street, about 190°F+ I'd guess. It sounds like it's for a DE, in which case it's not worth the hassle or cost IMHO.
Do you have camber plates or just stock negative camber? If not, you may cord the shoulders before the heat cycle out or wear out. Our cars are heavy for Hoo-hoos. I'm going to try the new Hoosier R100 GT3 cup slick soon, heard great things and they're supposedly more suitable for heavier cars like my Cayman. Friends who are running them say they are outlasting R6s by 50%, cost about 20% more ($1400 set) but with more stick and consistency over longer sessions. |
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04-14-2009, 07:54 PM | #3 |
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Monsta..... heat cycling is not BS....
Just warm up on one lap, and then 2-3 hot laps and let cool for at least 24 hours. Don't bother trying to heat cycle on the streets, you won't be able to get the temperature high enough. With air, you should get a 25% increase in PSI.....this is a very rough way to know you are getting high enough temps Good luck mate.
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04-14-2009, 08:47 PM | #4 | ||
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04-14-2009, 09:25 PM | #5 | |
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04-14-2009, 09:32 PM | #6 | |
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The general rumor is that Hoosier recommends -2.5° to -3°, my local performance shop says you can get away with a little as -1.8° depending on the car, it's weight and suspension. It may not be a problem, just something to watch for. |
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04-14-2009, 09:38 PM | #7 |
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My Dinan camber plates showed up, but the damn springs & bump stops still haven't shipped. I'm going to Lime Rock this Sat.
Monsta, you'll have a great time. It looks like it will be all dry! Just make sure your wheel is straight going up the hill before catching air!
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04-14-2009, 09:44 PM | #8 |
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04-14-2009, 09:56 PM | #9 |
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Oh shit is my response. I guess mine didn't make it through either. Would that mean we wouldn't qualify for the 15% discount? Damn.
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04-14-2009, 10:22 PM | #10 |
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04-14-2009, 10:47 PM | #11 |
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Well, a Dinan dealer ordered these for me. So, he has my camber plates. Not sure what the invoice will show. I'll call him tomorrow.
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04-15-2009, 12:03 AM | #12 |
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I've read some Porsche guys a similar routine that T-Bone described. They also say the number of heat cycles (track sessions) will determine grip (after the intial heat cycle), and not the actual amount of rubber still on the tire. After so many sessions, the tires start to lose grip despite still having a decent amount of rubber.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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