Gt4 lip duct adapters?

[kolosy]

Got a gt4 lip and 60mm hoses from Burkhart. Problem is the hoses don’t fit over the lip ducts. I saw a video I can’t find now of someone using what looks like heat shrink tubing to join the hoses to the lip. I like the idea but can’t imagine normal 0.1mm tubing not tearing. Is there some special kind people use? Or an adapter of some sort?

[kolosy]

actually -- found the video, it's from my other brake cooling thread :facepalm:

you can see they use heat shrink tubing to join the plumbing together...

[kolosy]

yeah, i think this might work. found some standard heat shrink tubing in the right size, it's about .75mm thick and pretty tough. unless you puncture it, i couldn't deform it by hand at all. did a test fit, and i think if i run the lip side all the way up, and maybe also throw a clamp on (because the duct tapers the wrong way for retention) i should be good. we'll see i guess?

[TDW_Nero]

Thanks for reposting. Definitely on my bucket list to do soon

[MineralWhiteF80]

What version or brand of GT4 lip do you have? My Ridgeline GT4 lip had longer duct channels that tapered down to a 60mm OD. My 63mm Burkhart duct hoses fit over it perfectly. I've seen some V2 version lips that seem to have the ducts cut down shorter that makes the outlet larger and more oval.

I was concerned about the retention strength of just putting a hose clamp on the lip/duct joint and didn't want the hose to blow off the lip duct at 150+mph, so I took three tiny Allen bolts and nuts, drilled holes in the lip ducts about 5mm from the ends and 120° away from each other radially, inserted the Allen bolts from the inside of the duct and used locknuts from the outside to create a retention point for the clamp to pull on, like the rolled lip you might see on the ends of intercooler piping. Has worked great on track so far.

Random tangent: My biggest observation about the GT4 lip ducts are the direction they point in. The duct ends point outward toward the outside of the fender well, but the duct needs to go toward the inside of the fender well so you have this unnecessary tight bend in the hose that could have been straightened out and, in theory, should increase airflow and reduce turbulence/resistence. I dunno, just a thought I had while laying on my back staring up at the duct

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by MineralWhiteF80

What version or brand of GT4 lip do you have? My Ridgeline GT4 lip had longer duct channels that tapered down to a 60mm OD. My 63mm Burkhart duct hoses fit over it perfectly. I've seen some V2 version lips that seem to have the ducts cut down shorter that makes the outlet larger and more oval.

I was concerned about the retention strength of just putting a hose clamp on the lip/duct joint and didn't want the hose to blow off the lip duct at 150+mph, so I took three tiny Allen bolts and nuts, drilled holes in the lip ducts about 5mm from the ends and 120° away from each other radially, inserted the Allen bolts from the inside of the duct and used locknuts from the outside to create a retention point for the clamp to pull on, like the rolled lip you might see on the ends of intercooler piping. Has worked great on track so far.

Random tangent: My biggest observation about the GT4 lip ducts are the direction they point in. The duct ends point outward toward the outside of the fender well, but the duct needs to go toward the inside of the fender well so you have this unnecessary tight bend in the hose that could have been straightened out and, in theory, should increase airflow and reduce turbulence/resistence. I dunno, just a thought I had while laying on my back staring up at the duct

i have a china no-name one unfortunately, and the ducts definitely end in an oval shape that i don't think a 63mm would clear either. interestingly, burkhart packaged the 60mm hose with their CF backing plates (which i ended up going with)...

good idea about the allen bolts, my only concern there is that it may introduce a failure point that the boot can tear around... I'm going to try going with the heatshrink tubing and that stuff is strong until you introduce a tear point. then it's basically paper.

although i may try to 3d print something like an adapter elbow (and address your tangent point too)... i can print in ABS and i don't see the loads on that piece being particularly high...