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      02-05-2015, 06:26 PM   #133
2015 Track Days - 3|Ridge 1:52:24|Pacific 1:35:72
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by SkyNet View Post
I've spoken to a few mechanics who say you have to replace the rotors every time you replace pads. Is this accurate?
Not necessarily. If they are well above minimum thickness they will just do pads. If you track the car as I did I ran lots of sets of pads before rotor change.
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      04-05-2015, 04:18 PM   #134
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Drives: '11 E90 M3 ZCP 6MT
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I changed my front pads today for the first time using this thread's treasure of usable information! I also used the opportunity to collect some essential gear for simple maintenance tasks, which might be of use to some others so here are my notes.

0. I never took the wheels off before, so I quickly realized that the shop does not torque them to 88 ft/lb but rather to twice that with an impact gun... So in addition to a 1/2-inch torque wrench it is also necessary to get a sizable breaker bar and an extra long impact 17mm socket. The extra long makes its possible to clear the wheel's rim with the wrench and the impact socket is safer than a normal socket (I sheared a cheaper simpler socket on my first try.)

1. I encountered a problem with my small metal jack head sitting uncomfortably against the hard plastic rectangular jacking brackets. After ordering a special adapter piece over ebay that did not arrive in time, I followed someone's advice and bought a $2 hockey puck as a sensible adapter. Worked safely and easily.

2. I did not open the brake fluid reservoir as I did not think the pressure makes any difference, and if there is a risk of overflow I'd rather have the lid on.
That worked fine.

3. All the actual work went exactly as expected from the detailed descriptions. The hardest bit is that you work blind, with your hands and sockets behind the wheel assembly. The upper retaining bolt requires an extension piece for your ratchet to get past the brake line. The retaining bolts only came out when I expanded the brake, before that I could unscrew them but they were still in the hole. Also, my brake pads were pretty far down to 4 mm or so, which made the expansion step with a screw drive a little harder, but it all worked. I also noticed that my brake seat and everything looked very dirty, but I had not special cleaner at hand so left it like that.

4. I was glad that I expected the glued-in outer OEM brake pad, which takes a firm attitude to pry out! Otherwise I would have been very worried at this stage.

5. The hardest bit was the putting the anti-rattle club back in. It took a lot of finger force to get the metal bits jointly into position and then pushing the centre bit in. Some swearing at that stage.

Overall, the first side took 90 minutes and the second side 40 minutes..

Safe travels!

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