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03-16-2014, 12:53 PM | #111 |
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Plug change
Took 1.5 hours. all that I needed for the coils were an X large screwdriver to carefully fulcrum out. and the coat hanger loop for a few of them. Just twist the coils first to loosen seal and get them out.
I also recommend a magnetic spark plug tool( found on this forum). Besides that, just need a few different size extensions and some common sense. Stealership wanted $550, I did it for the cost of plugs( $80). My plugs were pretty worn and arched ( 45k mile since last change) , the change really helped the idle ad throttle response. |
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07-27-2014, 07:40 PM | #116 |
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Drives: 2010 BMW E90 M3 - SG/FR 6MT
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Thank you for this write up and all the contributors! I will perform this maintenance myself soon, in confidence, thanks to this DIY!
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08-09-2014, 03:37 PM | #117 |
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Just finished changing my spark plugs and it was really easy. I just wanted to reiterate a couple of points for people looking to do this as I was way more worried about the difficulty than i needed to be.
1. You do not need any kind of special tools. All you need are a couple of flat head screwdrivers of varying lengths. Just poke around the coil packs and you will eventually find a spot to leverage/pry the thing loose. For the rear 2 coil packs you may need to stick something under the screwdriver for leverage (like a second screwdriver). All 8 coil packs popped off with minimal force 2. The front 3 plugs on each side can be removed and installed easily with an extension and spark plug socket. It will be easier if you have the socket with the rubber inside to hold the spark plug in place. Just assemble the socket, extension and spark plug and screw it into the head. 3. This is the MOST IMPORTANT part of the DIY and if you don't do this correctly you will waste a lot of time. For the 2 plugs closest to the firewall on both sides you need to use a spark plug socket that DOES NOT have the rubber inside. You will not have enough space to put in your socket + extension + plug assembly. What you need to do is drop the spark plug in, then drop the socket in, then attach the extension to the socket. If you use a socket with the rubber whats going to happen is after you screw in your spark plug you will not be able to get your socket back out. The connection between the rubber + spark plug is going to be stronger than the connection between your socket and extension. If you try to pull the socket out the extension will just keep popping off. I would also NOT recommend using a locking extension because even though you would be able to pop the socket off the plug now the extension + socket assembly is too long to pull out of the tight spot and you will spend a lot of time trying to finangle the the locking extension off the socket in a really tight spot. Use a socket with no rubber so that after you a screw the plug in you can pull out your assembly partially and use a screw driver to pop the socket off the extension and drop it back into the head. Then use one of those magnetic pickup tools to retrieve our socket. Final note: IF you have one of those spark plug sockets with the built in flex extension you MAY be able to snake it into the 4th cylinder and avoid all the issues i indicated above :P Sorry for the long post but i really wanted to clarify #3 as doing it incorrectly really wasted a lot of my time.
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12-24-2014, 02:53 PM | #119 |
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Did you use the $173 BMW version
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-M3-...ugs/ES2207843/ or Did you use the $87 version? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-M3-...ugs/ES2550769/ I am asking because I am getting ready to change my plugs and I am not sure if it is really important to pay nearly double for BMW version of the exact same thing. If anyone else has any experience with this issue, please chime in and share what you decided to do when you changed your plugs. BMW NGK LKR8AP plugs or Regular NGK LKR8AP plugs?? Thanks. |
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12-24-2014, 05:52 PM | #120 | |
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Quote:
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01-26-2015, 04:23 PM | #121 |
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Video of removing #4 ignition coil
I created a quick video showing how I removed the #4 ignition coil without any special tools. Unless wire is a special tool.
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02-26-2015, 10:06 PM | #123 |
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I have done some searching with no success...
Are we sure the plugs don't have to be gap-checked before install? I have always reset the gap on other cars. And can anyone confirm the gap specification? |
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04-14-2015, 11:44 PM | #125 | |
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Quote:
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04-14-2015, 11:46 PM | #126 | |
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Quote:
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04-18-2015, 09:11 AM | #127 |
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Maybe I missed it but I didn't see what the plugs are torqued down to, anyone know?
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05-12-2015, 11:47 AM | #129 |
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Did them yesterday, took about an hour total. I can't believe BMW charges $500 labour for this. For the back two plugs I dropped the socket (without the rubber insert) and used a magnet to bring it out. Same thing with the plug, just drop her in and use a magnet to fish out the old one. Super easy. The last coil on the drivers side at the very back broke on me because nothing in life is easy.
I glued it back on and put in the front cylinder to be replaced whenever. Here is what the plugs looked like after 72,000km's.
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06-21-2015, 01:19 PM | #130 |
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doing mine today. figured i have something to add: for coil removal, i found a windshield wiper puller fits great. at least the windshield wiper puller i happened to have in my box. obviously, this is a use at your own risk kind of thing.
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06-21-2015, 06:53 PM | #131 |
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another picture of it in use. PN is visible here, but i don't remember where i ordered it. probably pelican parts or rockauto.
edit: i googled the PN and found this: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4676-Winds.../dp/B000L7JQE8 i can't guarantee they haven't changed any of the specs. the width between the forks was just about perfect for this job, but the forks were very slightly too thick. so i took a grinder to the back of it for about 5 mins and then the fit was excellent. the car is buttoned back up and running. prior to the plugs, it had a very noticeable off-idle misfire (that never threw a code). really liked to show up if one applied >1/3 throttle at < 2k RPM, such as when one is working the clutch coming off from a stoplight. this appears to have fixed it. also worked well for a coil the prior owner broke. i have no idea how long the coil was on the car in this condition, but i don't think it was the cause of my low RPM misfire: i managed to get through the job without breaking any coils, but fortunately i had bought one in case i needed it. Last edited by nitrojunky; 06-23-2015 at 12:14 AM.. |
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06-22-2015, 05:08 PM | #132 |
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^^^ use your fingers and that won't happen
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