AA Stage 2+ & VT1 535

[akh23456]

Originally Posted by img

Akask, you gotta figure out a way to diagnose ur car for not hitting the 7.5 psi. cause i assure you that your car will perform better @ the right psi.

i will look into it Img when i head back to the dyno next time at Maximum psi. to make sure nothing came loose while i have been driving. thanks for the fix.

[img]

Originally Posted by akh23456

20.8955224 to be exact. with your numbers. and its not 139 its 140 but if you want to do glory numbers then 150 and 6.8 equals 22.0588235

Hey Akash,on *********** you said that your boost hit 8 Psi on the Dyno and Dr. *********** called it 7.5 Psi and you agreed with him.your 6.7 Psi came from your drag strip results not the Dyno.

So lets see:

You could have short shifted at the drag strip and never seen 8 Psi or you could have forgotten to calibrate the boost guage before using it at either location and thats what probably happened.

Verified boost from the Dyno is 7.7 Psi,from AA dyno 7.7 Psi and 7.9 Psi .
and since you are running the same kit 7.5 Psi that you were given is a gift

IS ANY OF THE ABOVE INCORRECT ???

[m33]

Originally Posted by akh23456

I think he will be going with gintani but I could wrong.

Good info there Lm.

Good choice LM I love hearing about Kaboom stories

[erm324]

^lmfaooo

[akh23456]

Originally Posted by img

Hey Akash,on *********** you said that your boost hit 8 Psi on the Dyno and Dr. *********** called it 7.5 Psi and you agreed with him.your 6.7 Psi came from your drag strip results not the Dyno.

So lets see:

You could have short shifted at the drag strip and never seen 8 Psi or you could have forgotten to calibrate the boost guage before using it at either location and thats what probably happened.

Verified boost from the Dyno is 7.7 Psi,from AA dyno 7.7 Psi and 7.9 Psi .
and since you are running the same kit 7.5 Psi that you were given is a gift

IS ANY OF THE ABOVE INCORRECT ???

If your talking about my first dyno i did not know where to tap for the boost log and i assumed that my boost gauge was reading properly. It wasn't so i said what it read that day. I knew i was heading over to Maximum Psi the next day so i would have a boost log so i didn't worry too much.
my gauge is off still i will be getting a new set of gauges in and i will get my boost gauge fixed as well. i have been reading the gauge number with what it read on the day of my boost log so i have accurate number. I havn't lied if you go on and read my dyno graphs are similar to the one from Maximum psi. The only thing its not a dj and Mike stated they read about 30-40 whp lower so it makes total sense.If you read from the boost log you can see i didn't get close to 7.5 close.

[img]

Originally Posted by akh23456

If your talking about my first dyno i did not know where to tap for the boost log and i assumed that my boost gauge was reading properly. It wasn't so i said what it read that day. I knew i was heading over to Maximum Psi the next day so i would have a boost log so i didn't worry too much.
my gauge is off still i will be getting a new set of gauges in and i will get my boost gauge fixed as well. i have been reading the gauge number with what it read on the day of my boost log so i have accurate number. I havn't lied if you go on and read my dyno graphs are similar to the one from Maximum psi. The only thing its not a dj and Mike stated they read about 30-40 whp lower so it makes total sense.If you read from the boost log you can see i didn't get close to 7.5 close.

Akash: You have the p3cars boost gauge right? That boost gauge resets itself every time you start the car and doesn't store its values when turned off. You need to recalibrate it every time you use it if you want it to be accurate.

The problem here is that you're saying your boost is a full PSI lower than three other verified boost logs, and a full 1+ PSI lower than Active says is on your kit. There's also no way to verify your boost log because it's on an unknown dyno. So far we've got two verified boost logs showing 7.7 PSI on this kit, and one verified boost log showing 7.9 PSI. Which value do you think is more accurate for your car? 6.7 which doesn't match anything and can't be verified...or 7.7-7.9 that the other boost logs have shown? Don't you think calling it 7.5 is generous enough?

[akh23456]

Originally Posted by img

Akash: You have the p3cars boost gauge right? That boost gauge resets itself every time you start the car and doesn't store its values when turned off. You need to recalibrate it every time you use it if you want it to be accurate.

The problem here is that you're saying your boost is a full PSI lower than three other verified boost logs, and a full 1+ PSI lower than Active says is on your kit. There's also no way to verify your boost log because it's on an unknown dyno. So far we've got two verified boost logs showing 7.7 PSI on this kit, and one verified boost log showing 7.9 PSI. Which value do you think is more accurate for your car? 6.7 which doesn't match anything and can't be verified...or 7.7-7.9 that the other boost logs have shown? Don't you think calling it 7.5 is generous enough?

If your using my numbers shouldn't you use the boost log from the dyno graph that has it. i can head to the dj maybe early next week and see what it reads so we can stop bickering over my actual number from my log.

the gauge is a Rixeffect stealth Digital Boost gauge.

i'll post a video and show how my gauge is off compared to the log as well.

[img]

Originally Posted by akh23456

If your using my numbers shouldn't you use the boost log from the dyno graph that has it. i can head to the dj maybe early next week and see what it reads so we can stop bickering over my actual number from my log.

the gauge is a Rixeffect stealth Digital Boost gauge.

i'll post a video and show how my gauge is off compared to the log as well.

Yes the Rixter guage is the same one.it needs to be calibrated everytime you turn on the car if you want it to be accurate.

If you are going to a Dynojet with a boost guage,you can video your Rixter for fun,but make sure you get the tach as well.
Make all of your dyno files availiable for review and dont just pick the cherry ones
And thats the only way to verify your results same as all the verified ones.
Thank You !!!

[akh23456]

Originally Posted by img

Yes the Rixter guage is the same one.it needs to be calibrated everytime you turn on the car if you want it to be accurate.

If you are going to a Dynojet with a boost guage,you can video your Rixter for fun,but make sure you get the tach as well.
Make all of your dyno files availiable for review and dont just pick the cherry ones
And thats the only way to verify your results same as all the verified ones.
Thank You !!!

i never pick the cherry ones i have always had all my info out there.I always try to have a boost log unlike some of the graphs i have seen from kits .


i don't see why you have to re-calubrate the gauge every time you turn your car on. I know what my car is running and how much psi why do i have to lie about that. i have proof as well from the boost log and still questions.

[img]

Originally Posted by akh23456

i never pick the cherry ones i have always had all my info out there.I always try to have a boost log unlike some of the graphs i have seen from kits .


i don't see why you have to re-calubrate the gauge every time you turn your car on. I know what my car is running and how much psi why do i have to lie about that. i have proof as well from the boost log and still questions.

Akash,i didnt say that you lie !!!!
and the reason i said the cherry runs cause the Dynojet runs that you posted only show two runs---runs 3-4.wheres runs 1-2 and any others??
You should also make them availiable for download,you gave them to LM,why not give them to anyone else??


And regarding your boost guage:Read the instructions,it says you HAVEto recalibrate it everytime you change altitudes and etc...............

So again i didnt sy that you lie,im just asking questions based on facts !!

[akh23456]

Originally Posted by img

Akash,i didnt say that you lie !!!!
and the reason i said the cherry runs cause the Dynojet runs that you posted only show two runs---runs 3-4.wheres runs 1-2 and any others??
You should also make them availiable for download,you gave them to LM,why not give them to anyone else??


And regarding your boost guage:Read the instructions,it says you HAVEto recalibrate it everytime you change altitudes and etc...............

So again i didnt sy that you lie,im just asking questions based on facts !!

if you asked for them img i would have sent them to you. pm me your email and you can have. I will go look over the directions when i get back home for the gauge.

[img]

Originally Posted by akh23456

if you asked for them img i would have sent them to you. pm me your email and you can have. I will go look over the directions when i get back home for the gauge.

PM sent !!!

[spdu4ea]

Originally Posted by akh23456

Does a sc change things that much that dct gains 5-10 mph in trap speed.

First, you have the difference in shift speed. DCT makes 4 shifts at 0.03s each for a total of 0.12sec spent coasting. 6MT makes 3 shifts that would take a good driver 0.2s each for a total of 0.6s coasting. Total difference? 0.48s. That's like giving your competitor half a second head start. PG did a nice detailed write-up on this topic: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=361609


Unfortunately, that's just part of the equation. The other part is gearing where the DCT puts down more power everywhere in the 1/4 mile except for a small stretch between ~97 and ~112mph:

power vs speed, DCT vs 6MT (same engine/SC):



So a 6MT has to overcome not only a 1/2 second of coasting, but also putting down less power for 110 of the 125mph...



And since I made that graph, might as well make it relevant to the AA v ESS topic:

power vs speed, 6MT (AA vs ESS):



power vs speed, DCT (AA vs ESS):

[img]

Thanks for sharing !!!!!

[m33]

Good info !!!

[Orange fever]

Thank you all for the 13pages of info =)
Be back in 2days to read another 13pgs....
Keep it coming