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      01-07-2011, 03:01 AM   #1
Eddy@ApexRaceParts
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Post APEX ARC-8 Product Details: E9X M3 Specific Track wheels

APEX ARC-8 Product Details and Specifications:
Light Weight Wheels for the E90 and E92 M3

Use this thread to discuss any fitment questions regarding the ARC-8 wheels and the E9X M3 application. With the product line up continually expanding, we will keep this first post updated with added sizes, and specification details.



Specifications:

18x9.5” ET35 (18.85lbs)
18x9.5” ET22 (19.10lbs)
18x10.0” ET25 (19.95lbs)
18x10.5” ET27 (20.45bls)

Available late April 2012
17x8.5" ET20 (16.55lbs)
17x10.0" ET25 (18.1lbs~)
17x10.5" (18.95lbs)


All wheel are produced with a BMW specific center bore. No centering rings used. The M3 fitment does not require spacers.
Wheels accept TPMS sensors, OEM Lugs, and OEM center caps



Details:

APEX ARC-8 wheels were designed to meet the specification needs of HPDE, race, and autocross drivers, while exceeding the requirements for every day street use. This makes them the perfect cost effective, dual duty wheel.

Meeting the Performance Enthusiast’s requirements:

Light-weight: Flow-forming allows for a significant reduction in rotational mass by reducing barrel weight. This manufacturing technique allows the ARC-8 wheel to be almost as light as a traditional forged wheel, but without the significant increase in price.

Strength: Track duty requires a wheel that can handle the punishment of high lateral G’s, hitting berms, and every once in a while a small off track excursion. Spoke and barrel design are a major factor in wheel strength. The flow-forming technique uses high pressure disks/rollers to roll the wheel’s barrel into its final shape. This gives the barrel the same strength properties as a forged wheel, since monoblock wheels go through a similar step to form their barrels. The ARC-8's mesh design helps evenly distribute loads from the barrel to the center of the wheel. The lack of a front lip, and spokes directly connecting to the edge of the wheel, also add increased strength to the outer lip of the wheel. Although a front lip can reduce weight, it can also make the wheel much more prone to bending, and this was an important factor when developing the wheel.
Once a design is selected, it needs to be tested and certified for strength. The ARC-8 wheels were not just FEA tested in a computer simulation, or in house tested to an unregulated standard. They follow Japans JWL standard, and are 3rd party tested there by the VIA in Japan. All 18" ARC-8 wheels have a 690KG load rating.

Proper tire fitment: Stretched rubber, narrow tires, and fender rubbing are not elements to look for in a competitive wheel/tire setup. The ARC-8 wheels were designed with offsets that allow for proper fitment of extreme summer, and r-compound tires without the need for spacers or fender rolling. This means keeping the tire under the fender, and away from suspension components. Track oriented wheel widths are also important as they provide proper sidewall support under hard cornering. Too much rubber for a wheel results in excessive sidewall deflection, which translates into sloppy and delayed turning response.

Multiple fitments: Most BMW’s come with a staggered setup. Some choose to keep their car this way, while others like to switch out for an easy to rotate, square/neutral setup. This is generally based on driver’s preference in addition to costs. The E9X M3 benefits from being able to fit both square and staggered setups with relative ease. 9.5” or 10” square setups are great for budget minded enthusiasts who want to extend their tires life by rotating between events, in addition to preferring the feel of a square setup. Square setups are popular on all 3 series models for track use due to the significant increase in front grip and turn in response. Some E9X M3 owners comment that due to the extra power of their cars, a square setup will lean towards oversteer. For those who prefer more rubber in the rear, a staggered setup is the way to go. 10” and 10.5” wheels are available for rear fitment. These can be combined with 9.5” or 10” fronts for a bolt-on spacer free staggered setup.

BBK clearance: Many owners install Big Brake kits on their cars. Having an 18” wheel that can clear large calipers is a must. Due to the low offset nature of the E9X M3, there are no clearance issues with the concave spokes of the ARC-8 wheel. Barrel clearance was increased during the design phase to accommodate StopTech’s 380mm kit. The only kit that poses an issue at this time is the 380mm Brembo setup.


Meeting the needs of Daily/Street use:

Aesthetic design: Although the ARC-8 put function over form when meeting the above requirements, there is no denying that concave mesh wheels look at home on a BMW.

Paint finishes: All the wheel have a multi-coat painted finish including a full clear coat except for the Satin finish which does not have a clear (that would have made it gloss black). To give owners more options the wheels are offered in 4 different finishes. Hyper Silver, Hyper Black, Anthracite, and Satin Black. Not everyone wants their track day wheels to be grey.

Abuse of street use: The world is full of pot holes and random things to run over. APEX wheels have an excellent history of handling abuse. To date we’ve only had one wheel with a minor bend and another with a hair line crack on the inner barrel lip. Both these wheels came from the same dedicated race car, and the bent wheel is still out there racing today.

Multiple fitments: Due to the more conservative nature of street use, the ARC-8 wheel is also available in sizes that can fit more street oriented rubber, at offsets that are an easier fit. Wider more aggressive wheels can be used by those who like a more flush/filled out look. The choice is yours.

Certification: The race track has no wheel strength requirements, but the street does. Sadly the USA has very lenient/minimal regulations of wheel strength, unlike like Japan and Germany. APEX wheels are independently tested by the Vehicle Inspection Association of Japan (VIA) to the JWL standard. Wheels tested to the JWL standard require all wheels on the road to meet specific load rating requirements based on the bolt pattern, and dimensions of the wheel, the application/vehicle model has nothing to do with it. In comparison, wheels tested to the SAE standard in the USA can pick their own load rating, which can be as low as they want. This defeats the purpose of the test, as a wheel manufacturer can choose to underrate their wheels in order to reduce wheel weight. Wheels claiming JWL testing, but no 3rd party verification are prone to certifying untested/unproven wheels. VIA certification can not be done in house. It requires sending wheels/tires to japan for crush testing. Sadly a large number of vendors claim their wheels are VIA, JWL and even TUV certified, when in fact they were never tested by those organizations at all, and in some cases don't even meet the standard requirements of those tests. For this reason the certificate numbers for the ARC-8 wheels have been listed below. Self regulate the market, and ask all vendors to back up their claims. If they were tested, then they'll have the registration numbers.

18x9.5” ET35 : VIA15-0461
18x9.5” ET22 : VIA15-0461
18x10” ET25 : VIA15-0462
18x10.5” ET27 : VIA15-1388
17X8.5" ET20 : VIA-17-0259
17X10" ET25 : VIA-17-0262
17X10.5 ET27 : VIA-17-0263

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.jwtc.jp/open/html/e/situmon1.html
Only after VIA registration has been completed can VIA marks or limited load marking be displayed on products. However, specified marks and load indication marks should be used.
As the VIA mark is a registered trademark, using it without VIA registration means unauthorized use, hence illegal.

VIA marks cannot be used simply because the products have passed the internal inspection test.
Products also have to undergo a documentary judgment with data (test report) from a certified testing equipment and file for an application to have them registered with VIA before displaying any VIA mark.

Wheel/Tire size recommendations

Square Setup

18x9.5" Front & Rear with 275/35/18
18x10" Front & Rear with 275/35/18 - Preferred setup
18x10" Front & Rear with 285/30/18

Staggered Setups

18x9.5" Front 265/35/18 - 18x10/10.5" Rear 275/35/18
18x9.5" Front 265/35/18 - 18x10/10.5" Rear 285/35/18 or 285/30/18
18x9.5" Front 275/35/18 - 18x10/10.5" Rear 285/35/18
18x9.5" Front 265/35/18 - 18x10.5" Rear 295/30/18 or 295/35/18
18x9.5" Front 275/35/18 - 18x10.5" Rear 295/35/18

18x10" Front 275/35/18 - 18x10/10.5" Rear 285/35/18 Rear
18x10" Front 275/35/18 - 18x10.5" Rear 295/35/18 – Preferred setup

Photo Threads for ARC-8 wheels:

White E92 M3 with Hyper Silver http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=374157
SilverStone E92 M3 with Satin Black http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=arc-8
Jerez Black E90 M3 with Satin Black http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=arc-8
VS Motors E46 M3 with Satin Black http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=arc-8
Silver E92 M3 with Satin Black and 275 R-comps http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...4&postcount=23
White E92 M3 with Satin Black http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...highlight=apex and http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...highlight=apex
Blue E90 M3 with Satin Black http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=24 and http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...1&postcount=39
APEX Official Wheel Gallery http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=arc-8




**UPDATES TO COME**

Last edited by Eddy@ApexRaceParts; 03-02-2012 at 02:38 PM.
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      01-07-2011, 05:36 PM   #2
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The toyo r888 in 305/35/18 are within 10-12" rim width, will these rub with this offset on 18x10s? Thanks
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      01-07-2011, 08:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atalladega View Post
The toyo r888 in 305/35/18 are within 10-12" rim width, will these rub with this offset on 18x10s? Thanks
305 is not recommended on a 10" rim, and that size R888 would most likely having rubbing issues. If you want to mount a wide tire use the 18x10.5" wheel instead. Although even on that if you're using at a track setup, you don't want to mount too much rubber onto a wheel as it will not function the way it's supposed too.

Going too wide with a tire on a narrow wheel pulls the sides up effectively making the tread narrower. The sidewall doesn't have the support it needs so it's sloppy when changing directions, and the taller OD of the tire negatively effects gearing. Extra rubber doesn't guarantee a better setup.

Toyo measured their 305/35/18 on an 11" wheel. The R888 runs really wide. For some other 3 series fitments 275 NT-01's would fit but the R88 would not. I would venture to guess that the 305 NT-01 would be an easier fit on the 10.5" wheel, but rubbing is still very much a possibly. It's not really possible to go from a 265 street tire to a 305 r-compound without some kind of compromise.
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      01-08-2011, 01:39 PM   #4
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The 10.5's just might be the answer to get my car balanced properly for the track.With a 10" square setup,it is too loose once the tires warm up to really attack.I will have to see what tires are available to myself locally that will work well.I am thinking a 275- 295 or a 285 -295 setup.Time to start some research.
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      01-08-2011, 02:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
The 10.5's just might be the answer to get my car balanced properly for the track.With a 10" square setup,it is too loose once the tires warm up to really attack.I will have to see what tires are available to myself locally that will work well.I am thinking a 275- 295 or a 285 -295 setup.Time to start some research.
If you were to run 285 up front it would have to be 285/30/18 because 285/35 is too tall and will interfere with the suspension, and most likely rub the fender liners while turning close to lock.

Since you already have the 10" 275 setup, the better choice would be to figure out what 285, 295 tire you could run out back.
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      01-08-2011, 02:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintpro21 View Post
305 is not recommended on a 10" rim, and that size R888 would most likely having rubbing issues. If you want to mount a wide tire use the 18x10.5" wheel instead. Although even on that if you're using at a track setup, you don't want to mount too much rubber onto a wheel as it will not function the way it's supposed too.

Going too wide with a tire on a narrow wheel pulls the sides up effectively making the tread narrower. The sidewall doesn't have the support it needs so it's sloppy when changing directions, and the taller OD of the tire negatively effects gearing. Extra rubber doesn't guarantee a better setup.

Toyo measured their 305/35/18 on an 11" wheel. The R888 runs really wide. For some other 3 series fitments 275 NT-01's would fit but the R88 would not. I would venture to guess that the 305 NT-01 would be an easier fit on the 10.5" wheel, but rubbing is still very much a possibly. It's not really possible to go from a 265 street tire to a 305 r-compound without some kind of compromise.
This is going to be a straight line "max traction" setup for S/C, so not really worried about the turns. More about the rub from suspension compression in the rear. With that information do you think the 305 r888 or M/T DR will rub just from rear end squat? Thanks again.
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      01-08-2011, 02:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintpro21 View Post
If you were to run 285 up front it would have to be 285/30/18 because 285/35 is too tall and will interfere with the suspension, and most likely rub the fender liners while turning close to lock.

Since you already have the 10" 275 setup, the better choice would be to figure out what 285, 295 tire you could run out back.
Yes that is what I am thinking also as my 275 just clears by a tiny bit with no rubbing.I am thinking of running the new regional Time Attack series as the Nationals will be held less than an hour from home this year.Just need to see the rules and tire programs before making decisions on tires & wheels.I am pretty sure that I will be running on a street tire as the present rules really favour a tire with a TWR over 140.
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      01-09-2011, 03:45 PM   #8
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Price???
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      01-09-2011, 05:28 PM   #9
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Price???
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      01-10-2011, 04:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
With a 10" square setup,it is too loose once the tires warm up to really attack.
Really? Just when I had decided to go square with these at 10"... What tires are you using? Track temps, session lengths, etc?
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      01-10-2011, 04:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Really? Just when I had decided to go square with these at 10"... What tires are you using? Track temps, session lengths, etc?
Having a square setup does not decrease grip on the rear, it simply improves front grip a lot more. The rear feeling loose is simply the car being over driven because of the amount of front grip available. If you were in a staggered setup with the same sized rear tire as the square setup you are looking at, you would not be faster. The rear grip would be the same, and the square setup would have more front grip. You'd need lap time data to really see this, but I would not turn down front grip if I can fit it.

Most everyone I know tracks their car with a square setup (e30 to e90). Even a 275 is a lot of rear tire, especially if it's an r-compound. The one E90 m3 that competed in the 25 hours of thunderhill ran a square setup. And two other BMW's that ran our APEX wheels in that even were on 10" square setups as well.

Staggered setups on this car will not have the oversteer feeling of a square setup, but you will not be able to rotate your tires, which can be costly for some.
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      01-10-2011, 05:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Really? Just when I had decided to go square with these at 10"... What tires are you using? Track temps, session lengths, etc?
I have had this issue more on a lower speed track much more on a track that I am primarily in 2nd and 3rd gears where I am working the rear tires much than on a track where I am using 3rd & 4th gears much more.I generally see a 6-8 psi rise in front and as high as 10-14 lb with the pressure rise differential being lower on a higher speed track.These are figures using Nt05's unshaved with a starting presure of 34/30 with 20- 30 minute sessions.The car will very neutral for about the 1st 10 minutes and then develop into a mild oversteer on corner entry to a lot of oversteer power on on exit.
I will probally run both a 10" and 10.5" rear depending on which track I will be running and If I am competing in Time Attak's.My tire selection is totally up in tha air at this point but I thinh a larger rear footprint is a good idea for my agressive driving style.
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      01-14-2011, 02:05 PM   #13
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I have a couple questions:

1) Whats the warranty on these wheels, particularly the paint finish. I have had a couple wheels with paint issue within a year of buying.

2) For a street setup (more than likely staggered) what do you recommend? If you are running the 10+ wheel sizes (front or back) are there issues with a modest drop? For instance the 10 front/10.5 rear plus lowering springs?
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      01-14-2011, 08:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
I have a couple questions:

1) Whats the warranty on these wheels, particularly the paint finish. I have had a couple wheels with paint issue within a year of buying.

2) For a street setup (more than likely staggered) what do you recommend? If you are running the 10+ wheel sizes (front or back) are there issues with a modest drop? For instance the 10 front/10.5 rear plus lowering springs?
1) currently the warranty is 2 year structural 1 year finish. This was setup this way because when the products initially released 2 years ago, we weren't sure how much product we could keep in inventory as we grew. Once we receive our major shipment, we will increase our warranty coverage to better match the true quality of the product. This isn't official at all as it's a post, but I can say that the structural warranty will most likely be set to life-time, and the paint finish to 2 years.

to date only one wheel was returned for a paint related issue. It was sent back immediately after receipt due to a very minor paint mark most likely caused by shipping packaging. That wasn't even a warranty replacement as that was taken care of in the first 2 days of receipt. No other wheels have ever had a paint issue to date, and they see all sorts of abuse.

2) fitment on a lowered vehicle will depend entirely on the tire size you want to run and what type of tire it is. For a dedicated street setup, I'd get the 9.5" setup for the front and run a 265. The 10's are really more advantages for the track, as they share the same concavity as the 9.5's (no aesthetic advantage to a 10" front over the 9.5" front). On the back it will again depend on the tire size/type.
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      01-15-2011, 09:53 AM   #15
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Thanks for the reply, does the 10.5 have an advantage in concavity or look over the 9.5/10?

Quote:
Originally Posted by paintpro21 View Post
1) currently the warranty is 2 year structural 1 year finish. This was setup this way because when the products initially released 2 years ago, we weren't sure how much product we could keep in inventory as we grew. Once we receive our major shipment, we will increase our warranty coverage to better match the true quality of the product. This isn't official at all as it's a post, but I can say that the structural warranty will most likely be set to life-time, and the paint finish to 2 years.

to date only one wheel was returned for a paint related issue. It was sent back immediately after receipt due to a very minor paint mark most likely caused by shipping packaging. That wasn't even a warranty replacement as that was taken care of in the first 2 days of receipt. No other wheels have ever had a paint issue to date, and they see all sorts of abuse.

2) fitment on a lowered vehicle will depend entirely on the tire size you want to run and what type of tire it is. For a dedicated street setup, I'd get the 9.5" setup for the front and run a 265. The 10's are really more advantages for the track, as they share the same concavity as the 9.5's (no aesthetic advantage to a 10" front over the 9.5" front). On the back it will again depend on the tire size/type.
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      01-15-2011, 01:12 PM   #16
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Thanks for the reply, does the 10.5 have an advantage in concavity or look over the 9.5/10?
9.5/10/10.5 have the same concavity
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      01-15-2011, 01:45 PM   #17
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Ok so would I be better off going 9.5 F / 10.5 F for traction in the back or 9.5 F / 10 F for the weight savings on Tire and Wheel? Sorry I dont usually have this many options haha.
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      01-15-2011, 01:47 PM   #18
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I'm running a square APEX ARC-8 10" wheel and 275/35 18 set up and I love it. The car feels perfectly balanced. That said, like Gearhead999s I've been thinking of trying to get a little more rear-end grip by running a 285 or 295 on the back. Will running wider tires on the 10" rim make a measurable difference, or do I need to run the wider tires in conjunction with the wider 10.5" wheel to see a difference?

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      01-15-2011, 08:31 PM   #19
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Ok so would I be better off going 9.5 F / 10.5 F for traction in the back or 9.5 F / 10 F for the weight savings on Tire and Wheel? Sorry I dont usually have this many options haha.
you wrote "F" each time and never an "R". So I don't misinterpret, could you confirm that you're asking about 9.5F/10.5R vs. 9.5F/10R
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      01-16-2011, 10:42 AM   #20
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you wrote "F" each time and never an "R". So I don't misinterpret, could you confirm that you're asking about 9.5F/10.5R vs. 9.5F/10R
Lol wow I should proof read my posts. Yeah that was F / R not F / F
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      01-17-2011, 07:12 PM   #21
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Lol wow I should proof read my posts. Yeah that was F / R not F / F
I would recommend you go the 9.5/10.5 route as your car can easily handle the 10.5" rear.
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      01-18-2011, 01:01 PM   #22
ff1600
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Originally Posted by R A W L S View Post
Will running wider tires on the 10" rim make a measurable difference, or do I need to run the wider tires in conjunction with the wider 10.5" wheel to see a difference?
Good question. I have the 10" rims and was considering this before buying more wheels.
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