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      07-16-2010, 11:41 AM   #1
LateBraking
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2008 E92 M3 V1 Hardwire (Fusetap method)

Seeing that it's come up in conversation a few times lately, I've decided to put my DIY back on M3post and keep it up, so long as certain people don't start going absolutely bat shit crazy again.

Edit: I've incorporated some minor updates into the DIY guide.

Last edited by LateBraking; 07-16-2010 at 11:56 AM.
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      07-16-2010, 11:42 AM   #2
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WARNING: I take no responsibility for anything that happens.

THIS GUIDE IS WRITTEN FOR A MY08 E92 BMW M3. IT MAY WORK ON OTHER MODELS AND YEARS, IT MAY NOT. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Edit: I have used this method on my 2011.5 M3 with no issues thus far. Take it for what it's worth, but I still take no responsibility for anything that may go wrong.

Special Thanks and credit goes to picus, bilbarstow, and E92Vancouver from E90post.com, for providing photographs much better than mine.

I apologize for the terrible iPhone pictures and the hastily written instructions. Trust me though, this is much easier than it looks.

What you will need.

*MINI*-Fuse tap kit (got mine from Autozone).
Low Amp *MINI* fuse (mine was 3 amps, from Radioshack).
Two flat head screwdrivers.
T-30 Torx Wrench (6-point star-shape).
Needle nose pliers.
Everything that comes in a *Brand-New* V1 kit (Not going to hold your hand on this if you got yours used).
Garage/Work space.
Laptop or printed instructions.
Patience.
Beer (optional).

Start by getting all your stuff together, and having your instructions handy. Helps to have a nice, wide open, and well-lit place to work. (I neglected this last part, shouldn't have.)





Pop open the mini fuse tap kit, and get the blue wire tap that is included in the V1 kit. Tap bottom of wire as shown.



My tap wouldn't go in at all, so I had to be extra persuasive, by means of needle nose pliers.



Take the 3-Amp (or lower) fuse, and stick it into the fuse tap.



Whole thing should look like this.



Ok, now clear out your whole glove compartment. See these little knobs in the back of your glove compartment? When they are horizontal, they are locked. Just turn them so that they are vertical, and pull the backing plate out.



Behind the backing plate, there is a fuse box guide. Use it if you need it.






~*FOR THE MY08/MY11.5 E92 M3*~, fuse slot 5 is unused ignition (circled in red). I found this somewhere on the M3post.com forum, I forget where. TAP INTO SLOT 5. (Best for our purposes, since it's unused, but is still ignition-activated, so doesn't always draw power.)

For everyone else, I have no idea, and in that case, you may consider tapping into the slot corresponded with the picture (circled in red in the photo with symbols). It's the OnStar one. Some people have also tapped into the cigarette lighter. Just remember, if you are tapping a slot that is currently in use, put in both your new fuse and the old one, as shown. Obviously, if you're tapping unused ignition slot 5 like me (FOR MY08 E92 M3) you will only need your new 3 Amp fuse, since there isn't any fuse there.



Now take your T-30 Torx wrench (6-point star-shaped one), and loosen this bolt here. DO NOT TAKE IT OUT! It was a HUGE pain in the ass getting it back in. Just loosen it enough to slip your ground (black wire) on the hardwire block behind it, and then tighten it back up.



Now, remember that wire tap that we put on the fuse tap? Plug in the red wire on the hardwire block into it, to give it power. (Above photo.)

Now, plug in your phone line into the Main Unit slot, and plug the other end into your V1.



With your car off, the unit should NOT BE ON.



But once you turn on your ignition....voila! We have power.



....Wait, it's not turning on! Oh what did I do wrong?
Don't worry, it's probably not a big deal. Go back to your fuse tap, and turn the thing 180 degrees, and plug it back in....
Bam! It should be working now. Yes, up and down direction does matter for the fuse tap. Luckily it wasn't such a big deal, huh? Phew!

(Notice the wire is pointing down in this photo now, instead of up like in the previous ones. Also notice that fuse is now facing left, and not right.)



IGNORE THIS PART IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A HIDDEN DISPLAY!

Now, plug your other phone line into the Accessory slot of your hardwire block. Then, put the backing plate into your hidden display. I slipped my phone line behind the backing plate, in these little cracks here, to make everything tidy. It'll fit.




I then shoved the cord inside the cracks of the trim, and ran it to the glove compartment. I placed my hidden display here. It didn't require any velcro or anything, since the pressure of the ashtray lid keeps it from moving around.



Last edited by LateBraking; 01-14-2011 at 02:10 PM.
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      07-16-2010, 11:43 AM   #3
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Now, take your V1, and put it where you want it located. Picus has it at a nice location here, out of sight. His photograph shows you exactly what you're going to be doing-sneak your wire along the top (it tucks in) until you reach the side pillar. Give your wire a little bit of slack though, in case you need it.




Edit: I'm including a quote from ersin. Just because I got slightly lazy near the end shouldn't mean you should too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ersin View Post
I suggest you pop the cover off of the A-pillar and use cable ties rather than just stuffing the wires in.
Credit goes to E92Vancouver for showing us how to remove the A-pillar. I'm including this section in case you want to do as ersin advised.

Quote:
Originally Posted by E92Vancouver View Post
The next step is to remove the A-pillar moulding that covers the air bag. Use a small screw driver to remove the screw cover. Use a torx screwdriver to remove the screw and then slide the cover up and out.




But anyways, if you're lazy like me, and can't be bothered, (again, I take no responsibility for anything that happens) what I did was CAREFULLY take the flathead screwdriver, and pry back the pillar trim SLIGHTLY, and push the wire behind the trim with the help of the other flathead.



Do this until you reach the lining, and then run the line behind the lining all the way down to the glove compartment.




Then sneak it around and inside like I did here, and plug it back into your hardwire block.



Turn your car on one more time to see if everything works, and then tuck away everything into a corner. Put the backing of your glove compartment back on, and voila! Out of sight, out of mind. Hope this helps!

Last edited by LateBraking; 07-16-2010 at 11:49 AM.
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      07-18-2010, 04:49 PM   #4
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Thanks for providing this!! Pictures really help.

One caution, I think. Isn't there an airbag in that pillar that the wire might impact if you just stuff it in? Perhaps better to fully remove the pillar cover and tie the wire to the existing wires, in order to avoid messing up the operation of the airbag.

Thanks again for the great guide!
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      07-18-2010, 05:20 PM   #5
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I didn't realize it would take that much effort.
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      07-18-2010, 11:38 PM   #6
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I completed this DIY over the weekend but ran into a little problem. My detector stays on all the time as opposed to turning off with the rest of the car. I tried slots 5 and 20 (cig lighter) but got the same results. Slot 7 wouln't work b/c a pice of plastic was blocking the fuse tap from seating properly.

Any ideas?
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      07-19-2010, 10:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saeedg48 View Post
I didn't realize it would take that much effort.
It looks like a lot of effort, but trust me, when you actually do it, it isn't difficult at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueman2 View Post
Thanks for providing this!! Pictures really help.

One caution, I think. Isn't there an airbag in that pillar that the wire might impact if you just stuff it in? Perhaps better to fully remove the pillar cover and tie the wire to the existing wires, in order to avoid messing up the operation of the airbag.

Thanks again for the great guide!
Of course. Keeping that in mind, I revised the guide by including a pillar pop-off section. I reccomend zip-tying your V1 wires there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvn View Post
I completed this DIY over the weekend but ran into a little problem. My detector stays on all the time as opposed to turning off with the rest of the car. I tried slots 5 and 20 (cig lighter) but got the same results. Slot 7 wouln't work b/c a pice of plastic was blocking the fuse tap from seating properly.

Any ideas?
None, sorry. I do see that you have a 2010 though, while I have a 2008. My guess would be that they (BMW) changed a few things in the fuse box in the newer model years. This is disheartening to me, as I currently have plans to get into a 2012 fairly soon.... Maybe I'll have to resort to the traditional method of sharing the OnStar fuse slot.
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      07-21-2010, 06:25 PM   #8
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You should also mention that the dash endcaps just pops out. It makes running the wire a LOT easier.

If your detector stays on, check on it after about 30 minutes. Many times it'll power down once the car goes into sleep mode. You'll hear it power up again when you unlock the door, or open the door if it's not locked.
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      09-13-2010, 02:35 PM   #9
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Just used this method very EASY done in 1 hour.. also installed concealed display in front of my speedometer.. .. Clean install and saved 300$!!!!
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      10-28-2010, 10:15 AM   #10
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Just did this last night not the handiest but it was easy and i was done in under 45 minutes...only problem I ran into was getting the pillar cover back on but it was no big deal. Thanks for posting this really made the install simple!
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      01-12-2011, 04:09 AM   #11
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I would recommend against using vampire taps because after a while the connection is bound to come loose and the detector will intermittently shut off or start behaving erractically. I would solder it or wire it to the fuse box the right way.
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      01-13-2011, 10:23 AM   #12
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I don't think it matters if you carefully stuff the wire into the A pillar or not. If you notice in the picture from the OP's post, without much slack the wire would continue to rest on top of the lip from the upper pillar molding instead if laying across the airbag. I'm not really sure where someone would zip tie the wire inside that pillar without affecting the airbag performance even more, unless you plan to run the wire behind the airbag.
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      01-14-2011, 12:46 PM   #13
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Just wanted to thank the OP for the excellent DIY. I was looking for some good information on installing my new V1 using the fusebox, but this one was the best!
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      01-14-2011, 02:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savaho View Post
I would recommend against using vampire taps because after a while the connection is bound to come loose and the detector will intermittently shut off or start behaving erractically. I would solder it or wire it to the fuse box the right way.
I recommend this too, but I am admittedly not skilled with soldering, and most people are somewhat lazy (myself included), so that is why I have people just vampire tapping a $3.00 wire tap from Autozone. At least it's cheap and easily replaceable, and preferable to vampire tapping the wires in your roof, which aren't as cheap or easily replaceable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Budge View Post
I don't think it matters if you carefully stuff the wire into the A pillar or not. If you notice in the picture from the OP's post, without much slack the wire would continue to rest on top of the lip from the upper pillar molding instead if laying across the airbag. I'm not really sure where someone would zip tie the wire inside that pillar without affecting the airbag performance even more, unless you plan to run the wire behind the airbag.
I noticed when I did the install a second time, and took apart the A-Pillar, that it's difficult to run the wire inside without it being near the airbag. If I had to do this all over again, I'm personally not sure how I would do this a third time. I will keep both methods up, but won't personally advocate one method over the other.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingman335 View Post
Just wanted to thank the OP for the excellent DIY. I was looking for some good information on installing my new V1 using the fusebox, but this one was the best!
Thanks! I'm glad that it helped.
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      01-19-2011, 09:04 AM   #15
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Thanks for the great guide.

Was already planning to install a V1 this week.
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      02-09-2011, 09:27 PM   #16
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Thanks for the great instructions! I did it this afternoon.
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      02-10-2011, 12:19 PM   #17
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Can those of you who did this post up pictures of where you put your remote display? Seems like there are a lot of good options.
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      02-10-2011, 08:33 PM   #18
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I did this for an escort redline and didn't use a remote display (otherwise I'd post some pics).
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      02-11-2011, 05:15 PM   #19
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LateBraking,

Great install on the V1! So it's confirmed then that #5 fuse slot is unused ignition slot for MY2011 sept build? Are there any better ways to connect the power from the V1 to the fuse tap, other than the wire tap? I was just wondering, in the event that maybe the V1 could lose power because of a loose connection to the fuse tap due to the wire tap.

Either way, thanks for sharing your install!
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      02-12-2011, 09:12 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTremens View Post
LateBraking,

Great install on the V1! So it's confirmed then that #5 fuse slot is unused ignition slot for MY2011 sept build? Are there any better ways to connect the power from the V1 to the fuse tap, other than the wire tap? I was just wondering, in the event that maybe the V1 could lose power because of a loose connection to the fuse tap due to the wire tap.

Either way, thanks for sharing your install!
I just saw that this was already addressed futher down in the thread. sorry for the stupid post!
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      02-13-2011, 02:51 PM   #21
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#5 fuse slot worked like a charm on my 10/2010 build MY11
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      03-20-2011, 06:46 PM   #22
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This worked like a charm in my 2008 335i e92! Thank you very much for the detailed step by step instructions!
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