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      04-22-2010, 03:45 PM   #45
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Seems easy enough to do. Thanks for the write up. Going to upgrade to new springs soon. This will definitely help.
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      04-22-2010, 07:43 PM   #46
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Am not going to do that, but a relevant question for those with EDC: How do you remove all that EDC crap on top of the strut to get to the center nut?
By the way, if you only remove the top bolt, like to swing the strut out to change the fender liner (done to my car on passenger side), alignment doesn't seem to change since both front axles were identical. I checked it anyway, and had dealer adjust to minimum specs, but they left all adjustments all over the place within spec, saying specs are too tight, and couldn't do it. Seems to me the tech was a clown, since I've read people mentioning they had adjusted toe-in to zero, like I wanted. Oh well. Dealer charged me $149, by the way. But yeah, messing with the lower bolts warrants an alignment for sure IMO. I posted the specs somewhere, in case some of you want to go to an independent shop. Only adjustment not specified was caster; probably because it can't be adjusted.
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      07-15-2010, 07:42 PM   #47
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Just finish installing my springs. I have one concern though, when i removed the fronts i only loosened the one top nut on the shocks and when the strut came out so did the rubber bearing on top of the springs. Is this how its suppose to be done? or did i mess it up?
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      10-08-2010, 10:55 PM   #48
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Just finished mine, it's realy a straight forward install...It took me and my buddy 3 hrs. with a few "beer breaks"

Gread write-up....thanks a bunch
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      10-08-2010, 11:03 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elp_jc View Post
How do you remove all that EDC crap on top of the strut to get to the center nut?
Remove the dome shaped cover first (be careful, the cable underneath is not very long, so don't pull the cover away too much). The cover should come off without tools, just kinda squeeze it a little and gentle pull on it.

Once the cover is removed, you'll see a plug at the very end of the shock absorber rod. Take two flat head screw drivers and pry it straight up, be very careful, the pins inside this plug are tiny....

Thats it....
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      10-08-2010, 11:05 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimj281 View Post
Just finish installing my springs. I have one concern though, when i removed the fronts i only loosened the one top nut on the shocks and when the strut came out so did the rubber bearing on top of the springs. Is this how its suppose to be done? or did i mess it up?
I don't think the whole bearing came out, I think it was just the part which is riding on the bearing (spring seat)...
Anyway, as long as you put back everything, you should be fine
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      11-10-2010, 01:34 PM   #51
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Just a word of caution - at least on the E46 cars if I remember correctly, the 3 nuts that hold the front spring hat onto the tower brace need to be replaced every time (and they are expensive). The reason given was that BMW uses a special stretchable nut (the torque being very low).

I'm not sure if this is fact of myth, but I think if I went to the trouble of replacing the springs, I'd spring for new nuts (pun intended).
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      01-22-2011, 04:05 PM   #52
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Going to give it a try tomorrow with my H&Rs

Wish meh luckkk
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      01-22-2011, 11:45 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
Just a word of caution - at least on the E46 cars if I remember correctly, the 3 nuts that hold the front spring hat onto the tower brace need to be replaced every time (and they are expensive). The reason given was that BMW uses a special stretchable nut (the torque being very low).

I'm not sure if this is fact of myth, but I think if I went to the trouble of replacing the springs, I'd spring for new nuts (pun intended).
Should be reusable, because the torque is so low. But definitely do NOT over torque it. It is expensive because it is a special BMW-spec nut.

On BMW service manuals, BMW makes clear of the nuts/bolts that REALLY need to be replaced, i.e. the bolts on the propeller shaft. Those nuts are actually torqued beyond yield (torque value + torque angle).
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      01-24-2011, 01:17 AM   #54
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update with e36 bumpstops?

btw are the 3 series bumpstops & e36 bumpstops the same?
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      01-28-2011, 11:30 PM   #55
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Thanks for the DIY, this has to be the easiest spring swap ever (at least that I have done). Taking my time and taking some pics, start to finish with some breaks was ~2 hours.

H&R Sport Plus (Race) Springs feel great with EDC and I am using the OE bumpstops.......
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      01-30-2011, 05:39 AM   #56
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Ok its now 1137 am in Germany, I will start the process at noon and let you know when I come back in. When I try things for the first time, just like my fabspeed headers on my e46 m3, I take my time and do it slowly. I hope this goes smoothly as advertised LOL
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      01-30-2011, 12:49 PM   #57
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I broke a module thats in the rear because the assembly went down to far and it snapped it off... ALSO almost did the same thing in the front , they are both on the left side. I think its part of the bullshit EDC system.
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      01-30-2011, 12:54 PM   #58
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Thats the headlight sensors...
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      01-31-2011, 01:59 PM   #59
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Yup, broke it. Lol, superglued it, let it sit over night, wrapped a zip tie around that bitch, reinstalled it, did a 1 mile lap with bumps and light breaking to make the suspension do its job. NO fault codes!!

However, I used nothing in this thread to help me.... because I had a different set of spring clamps so I couldnt use your way to clamp it. Had to do it the generic way... If I had power tools I said 2 hours max...


edit: If I do get a fault code for the lights, then I know why..
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      06-12-2011, 10:36 AM   #60
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Used the install last night step by step...super easy then i turned the car on and i got a ABS light, Traction control light and the BRAKE light???? NO idea why, someone please help
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      06-24-2011, 02:52 AM   #61
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I like the updates, so now it can be done without removing the shock. Good stuff! Def. easier to do it this way, and it saves time.
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      07-04-2011, 07:12 PM   #62
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Spring Install - after the fact questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by The General View Post
I like the updates, so now it can be done without removing the shock. Good stuff! Def. easier to do it this way, and it saves time.
Replaced the front OEM springs with Eibach Performance springs on Friday. Started with the front with the plans of replacing the rear springs later this week. I used the very helpful DIY instructions available on the forum and everything seemed to go OK. Here are my questions:

1.When swapping out the springs, did anyone replace the swaybar or strut lock nuts with new hardware? I just reused them, but am questioning if I needed new.

2.If I like the ride and look of the car with the Eibach springs in the front and the OEM springs in the back, is there a compelling reason to change out the rear shocks with the Eibach? I have 20" CH-R in 255/30/20, and 285/30/20 in the rear. 3mm chamber plat coming for the front. The car currently has an even stance and I'm worried if I drop the rear it will be too much for the 30 profile tires.

3.Dove the car home on Friday after the front install with no errors. Washed the car over the weekend and when I started it today there was a EDC error. I checked all the connectors and the wiring harness and everything seems ok. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help.
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      07-13-2011, 10:55 PM   #63
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anyone have the part number for the nuts that need to be replaced? tackling mine this weekend....
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      07-13-2011, 10:58 PM   #64
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so much could go wrong :/
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      09-02-2011, 10:30 PM   #65
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did mine tonight, went well....front is much easier than the rear...especially getting the bolts back in..what a b&^ch...

thanks for the outline!

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      03-01-2012, 09:11 AM   #66
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How different is KW adjustable sleeve kit compared to regular springs? Anyone have any tips on installing those?

Thanks
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