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      07-04-2010, 12:18 PM   #67
Motorix
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I'm really happy with the ZHP knob

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      07-05-2010, 02:23 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorix View Post
I'm really happy with the ZHP knob

what is that extra button next to the seat warmer and rear sunshade? looks like pdc?
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      07-05-2010, 03:13 AM   #69
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Yes, Rear sunshade
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      07-05-2010, 03:16 AM   #70
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i meant the buttom between the seat warmer and rear sunshade.
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      07-05-2010, 03:41 AM   #71
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Sorry yes, that is the PDC button, which can be ON / OFF
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      07-05-2010, 05:06 PM   #72
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That button is only in those with front PDC which is not available in the US.


Motorix,

Did you do the light mod for the ZHP knob?


Cheers.
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      07-06-2010, 04:33 AM   #73
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yes I have the light

Knob ordered from. LEATHERZ
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      07-12-2010, 01:17 PM   #74
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can anyone tell me whats the best way to remove the 6-speed ///M logo ontop of the ZHP shifter? for some strange reason, the logo popped right off on the OEM shifter but i'm struggling with the ZHP. is it held down different?

anyone have pictures of whats underneath the logo on a ZHP shifter? i'm debating if i want to install the 6-LED pad inside the ZHP shifter (that's if i dont need to dremel the crap out of center core of newly purchased ZHP shifter).
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      07-12-2010, 01:30 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bavarian06 View Post
(that's if i dont need to dremel the crap out of center core of newly purchased ZHP shifter).
That's the only way to make space for it . The stock shift pattern is only 'glued' (double-sided tape) to the perimeter, due to the light module being underneath. The ZHP cap is also held by double-sided tape, but with the entire surface, so forget about removing it without damaging something. Since you'd use the stock one with the lighting (MUCH better looking too ), it only makes sense to damage the cap itself. Drill it, drive a self-tapping screw thru the hole, and pull out with pliers. It might crack first, but it's easily removable that way too. But again, a dremel job awaits you after that, so you might decide to leave it alone . Good luck.
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      07-12-2010, 01:45 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elp_jc View Post
That's the only way to make space for it . The stock shift pattern is only 'glued' (double-sided tape) to the perimeter, due to the light module being underneath. The ZHP cap is also held by double-sided tape, but with the entire surface, so forget about removing it without damaging something. Since you'd use the stock one with the lighting (MUCH better looking too ), it only makes sense to damage the cap itself. Drill it, drive a self-tapping screw thru the hole, and pull out with pliers. It might crack first, but it's easily removable that way too. But again, a dremel job awaits you after that, so you might decide to leave it alone . Good luck.
thx for the quick reply. i made a small lil chip on the bottom of the OEM shifter in the process of ripping it off. enough to bother me so that's why i want to be super cautious with the ZHP shifter.

i looked over the OEM shifter emblem cap and it doesnt seem like there is anything special about it to help the light emitt through it. actually there is a white plastic piece is on the back of the emblem, which i would think block the light from coming though.

can i use the ZHP emblem cap for the lighted ZHP mod?
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      07-12-2010, 02:08 PM   #77
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can i use the ZHP emblem cap for the lighted ZHP mod?
Nope; light wouldn't shine thru. Wait until you have both off and you'll see the difference. The stock one looks much better man, lighted or not.
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      07-13-2010, 08:06 PM   #78
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Well, I attempted this and royally screwed it up. Getting the LED out was a pita, I screwed up and cut the wires, got everything into the ZHP knob, re-spliced the wires, did a lousy job on drilling the hole, and then when I installed the knob it wouldn't go all the way on (wires) and I beat the emblem all sorts of crooked... Not to mention I got glue seepage. Royal fail on my part.

I'm going to order another ZHP knob and just run it illuminated, it is a nicer driving experience than the stock knob.

Last edited by Alex1911; 07-15-2010 at 08:24 PM.
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      07-21-2010, 09:58 PM   #79
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So I installed my new (replacement for the one I screwed up) ZHP shift knob (not-illuminated, bummer)... I went through a bunch of ideas for attaching the boot where it would look nice, as opposed to just using zip-ties or going at it with electrical tape and inside-out zips. I tried milling and drilling a nylon washer, no joy, too much work, then it hit me!

Rubber grommet from Lowe's... It costs about $1.27. I don't remember which I used (I bought 2), I'm pretty sure I used the 1 1/8. It gives enough room for the leather/boot. Install it on the inside boot, get it down as far as you can (it'll stretch a bit, you may need help and a pair of needle-nose), then jam the ZHP knob on there, re-clip the boot, and push the boot down, looks good.

I would shy away from using a rubber mallet or anything more than you palm w/ a MF cloth. I wacked it and cracked my emblem (I've had nothing but bad luck with the shift knob mod)... Luckily I kept the emblem off my first ZHP knob and it was undamaged, just I finally got a bit lucky.

I'm bummed I couldn't work out getting the thing to light, but in the end it shifts much better with the ZHP knob and it looks pretty stock, I'm happy (to be done with it).
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      07-22-2010, 12:08 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex1911 View Post
I wacked it and cracked my emblem (I've had nothing but bad luck with the shift knob mod


You can always order a lighted one from LeatherZ. Lighting is different than stock, but at least it lights up . I also used a rubber mallet to drive the knob down, but didn't whack it . This mod is definitely not for the faint of heart. But the good news is a new ZHP knob is a relative bargain at $60, so it's worth the risk IMO (several have gotten the job done the second time around). None of us need the lighting, but it's part of the M 'heritage', and looks awesome at night. Take care.

Last edited by elp_jc; 07-22-2010 at 10:59 PM.
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      07-22-2010, 02:09 AM   #81
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glad i didnt drill my zhp (hearing all the horror stories). im perfectly happy with it not being illuminated (probably cause i dont look down much).

zhp shifter is a must upgrade, surprised i waited this long to do it.
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      07-28-2010, 11:36 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elp_jc View Post
Yeah, definitely not for the faint of heart . Even after having countersunk several knobs (lots of work too), I didn't really want to tackle this one, but the LeatherZ one wasn't good enough for me, so had to take the plunge .


Ended up using electrical tape rolled backwards and adhered to itself (yes, sticky side out), folded in half, and PAINSTAKINGLY filled that narrow area just short of the ring's diameter (leather thickness filled the rest). Then made 2 square cuts at the top (12 and 6 o'clock positions) where the heads of 2 small zipties attached backwards (with the 'head' on the inside) had space to hide, leaving the leather smooth all around. If you put the zipties the 'right' way, you end up with their 'heads' (even after you cut the excess) sticking out, and looks like crap IMO. Yes, I'm a little anal . By the way, after that 'filling' job, you install the boot outside in (backwards) and push it as low on the shaft as possible, then install the knob, then pull the boot up until boot is snug around the made-up -ring', which is at the very end, then secure the boot with the 2 zipties tied together, tighten little by little to keep the 'heads' at their appropriate 12 and 6 o'clock positions, then cut the excess, route and connect the wires, and finally pull the boot down and reinstall the base. Hope this helps.
can you post some photos of the inside of your shift boot? I would like to see the work you did.
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      07-30-2010, 10:13 PM   #83
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Re

Great DIY, thanks for posting.

-Will it be possible to use the LED from E36 or E46 M3 lighted shift knob, not sure if it is the same as newer E9* M3 showing in picture, or the earlier lighted M knob versions have some kind of bulb in there insted of 6 LEDs?
-Approx. how long has to be the drill bit for a small wire hole and did you drill from one side only (bottom or top)?
-How to remove the top shift pattern cover, pushing from the bottom or trying to pry off from the top?
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      08-04-2010, 08:10 AM   #84
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Any word on the grommet? How flush is it? I can't decide what the best route for attatching the boot is.
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      08-04-2010, 09:10 AM   #85
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Great job. (why didnt BMW think of it)
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      08-04-2010, 11:39 AM   #86
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Quote:
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can you post some photos of the inside of your shift boot? I would like to see the work you did.
Sorry man, but I'd have to take it apart, and am not going to do that . All you have to do is build-up the shaft once knob is installed (between knob and where shaft widens), to make it slightly thinner than the ring on the knob by about twice the boot's leather thickness, so when you pull up the boot (and bend it back down), boot will be flush with the ring. The area to build up is slightly smaller than regular electrical tape, so you'll have to cut it so it doesn't bulge up where the shaft widens. Finally, if you want the boot to look like factory (no zip-tie bulges, like I did), once you have that 'base' built up, you'd have to carefully cut 2 little squares at opposite ends (I used 12 and 6 o'clock) so the reversed zip-ties' heads (on the inside, rather than the outside, like you normally use them) can reside without showing thru the boot. Hope it was clear. If you were able to do the lighting mod, this would be a lot less challenging ; just use a little imagination. I wanted to make a rubber grommet for a factory look inside too (and being able to remove it and reinstall it easily), but couldn't find anything approaching the right size, so had to improvise this way. As long as I don't have to remove boot again (I shouldn't), there's no difference. Good luck.

Last edited by elp_jc; 08-04-2010 at 11:45 AM.
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      08-04-2010, 02:56 PM   #87
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Nice! Wish I could purchase that exact setup for my E92.
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      08-05-2010, 11:44 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elp_jc View Post
Sorry man, but I'd have to take it apart, and am not going to do that . All you have to do is build-up the shaft once knob is installed (between knob and where shaft widens), to make it slightly thinner than the ring on the knob by about twice the boot's leather thickness, so when you pull up the boot (and bend it back down), boot will be flush with the ring. The area to build up is slightly smaller than regular electrical tape, so you'll have to cut it so it doesn't bulge up where the shaft widens. Finally, if you want the boot to look like factory (no zip-tie bulges, like I did), once you have that 'base' built up, you'd have to carefully cut 2 little squares at opposite ends (I used 12 and 6 o'clock) so the reversed zip-ties' heads (on the inside, rather than the outside, like you normally use them) can reside without showing thru the boot. Hope it was clear. If you were able to do the lighting mod, this would be a lot less challenging ; just use a little imagination. I wanted to make a rubber grommet for a factory look inside too (and being able to remove it and reinstall it easily), but couldn't find anything approaching the right size, so had to improvise this way. As long as I don't have to remove boot again (I shouldn't), there's no difference. Good luck.
I purchased the unlighted knob and got it on rather easily no complaints so far, loving the knob. I may have to purchase a Leatherz knob in the future since im terrified to ruin my OEM ones.
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