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      05-22-2010, 10:53 AM   #89
Polak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knifegun View Post
I had mine pulled and aligned. The car seems to pull to the right on most roads. I had the alignment checked and it was all correct numbers wise. Also, I had the tires swapped and had the same behavior. The explanation given was that the negative front/back camber makes the car more susceptible to the crown in the road.

Do other people notice the same thing? The shop I went to does great work so I am more concerned there could be something up with my car. Overall, the car pushes less and drives great (aside fromt he pull when I let go of the steering wheel).

BTW, when I let go of the steering wheel, the steering wheel stays stable. It does not move so it is not a centering problem.
This is normal, product of just having more of a contact patch. If you had any additional toe +/- (of more then 1/16'' per wheel) it would exasperate the problem. That said, It should be barely noticeable, you shouldn't be be actively fighting with the wheel to stay straight on just the max - camber settings.
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      05-22-2010, 07:38 PM   #90
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I had some alignment issues when I removed the pin as well. I have to go back to the shop 3 times because the car was pulling to one side.
Eventually, the shop got it right by having me sit in the car and hold the steering wheel straight while they were doing the alignment. Good luck.
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      05-23-2010, 03:35 AM   #91
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I am going to run my newly installed TC Kline D/A suspension set up with custom swift springs and vorshlag camber plates for the Redline Time Attack event this weekend in Autoclub Speedway. I plan to run -3.0 up front and -2.0 in the rear to start off on Saturday for qualifying and adjust accordingly for the Sunday time attack event depending on how the car feels.

I will definitely report back here.
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      06-26-2010, 04:09 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noxredna View Post
I am going to run my newly installed TC Kline D/A suspension set up with custom swift springs and vorshlag camber plates for the Redline Time Attack event this weekend in Autoclub Speedway. I plan to run -3.0 up front and -2.0 in the rear to start off on Saturday for qualifying and adjust accordingly for the Sunday time attack event depending on how the car feels.

I will definitely report back here.

How did it go? What springs rates and which tires were you using?

I need to set my car up for street and a bit of track and will probably go with -2.0 camber front and rear.
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      07-01-2010, 05:56 PM   #93
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My suspension set up fell through last minute and I couldn't get it ready for the last race in autoclub speedway back in May.

The car is now ready for july 4th weekend in willow springs.

Running 500F 800R spring rates, running -2.8 close to -3.0 camber up front. It'll get the exact specs sometime this weekend and will see how it feels
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      07-01-2010, 07:15 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noxredna View Post
My suspension set up fell through last minute and I couldn't get it ready for the last race in autoclub speedway back in May.

The car is now ready for july 4th weekend in willow springs.

Running 500F 800R spring rates, running -2.8 close to -3.0 camber up front. It'll get the exact specs sometime this weekend and will see how it feels
I am running a very similar setup 500/800 on KW clubsports. -3 up front 0 toe with -2.3 in the rear. Car feels insane.
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      07-01-2010, 08:24 PM   #95
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Awesome stuff.. can't wait to get it out this weekend.!!

Considered clubsports as well but I could run a larger range of custom spring rates on the TC Kline D/As..

How is it on the road? Do u just re-align camber and pop it back up to -1.0?? Is the 500/800 rate livable on the street?
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      07-06-2010, 09:54 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noxredna View Post
Awesome stuff.. can't wait to get it out this weekend.!!

Considered clubsports as well but I could run a larger range of custom spring rates on the TC Kline D/As..

How is it on the road? Do u just re-align camber and pop it back up to -1.0?? Is the 500/800 rate livable on the street?
I am very happy with my current setup as a street/track car. I keep my shocks 1 click off full soft on the street and with the 500/800lb springs the car is very compliant.

I havent had a dual alignment setup since I ran TCK on my E46. The shifting of the plates does work, but you will never get it to be perfect once you move the plates. I have since been just keeping it at one alignment setting. I love the responsiveness of a more aggressive alignment and my tires dont last very long anyways.

If you are interested in a dual alignment you will most likely need to run 2.5 on the street as a min camber in order to have the ability to get to 3.5-4.0 on the track. (depending on your ride height). I used to run 2.5 on the street with 0 toe and move it to 3.5-4.0 for track which would give me a slight bit of toe out. The turn in with a little toe out will be nuts.
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      07-07-2010, 11:34 AM   #97
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I ran -3.0 camber on the track this past weekend with 0 toe in the rear and it was very nervous under threshold braking... my backend was very loose. I had to adjust it accordingly and dropped it to -2.2 to -2.4 I can't be sure what it is now as I didn't mark out the lines carefully, but he backend of the car was a lot more manageable under braking.

With that much camber, I think you will need some toe in to gain some braking stability.. need to talk to my mechanic a little bit to get a better understanding of my suspension set-up.
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      07-07-2010, 03:34 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noxredna View Post
Considered clubsports as well but I could run a larger range of custom spring rates on the TC Kline D/As..
I'm not sure I understand this statement - could you explain please? The KW's use 60mm race springs and I believe the TCK system uses 64mm (2.5") racing springs. While some spring manufacturers have a wider range of rates and lengths in one size or the other, across the race spring marketplace (Eibach, H&R, VVS, Swift, KW and so on) you can pretty much get the same rates and lengths in either size. That sounds like pretty much the same range of choices. Am I missing something?

I have my KW Clubsport suspension set up 10mm lower than stock with the factory camber, caster and toe settings exactly. For track days I drop the front camber down to -2.1 degrees, which gives me a bit of toe-out. According to the dealer's laser alignment system, the KW camber plates deliver very repeatable toe-in and camber adjustments as you switch back and forth.
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      07-07-2010, 04:20 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rldzhao View Post
I've been running -2.2 front and -1.8/9 rear on Advan Neova AD08. This seems to be a very good camber setting, very little roll over. Perhaps the front could go a tad more but I am happy with where I am now.
This is exactly the feedback I was looking for and your specs are close to what I plan to use.

Do your Motons have the standard spring rates?

What size AD08s are you using?

Thanks
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      07-07-2010, 06:41 PM   #100
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hey guys i've moved the spring rate discussion to another thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=405924
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      07-21-2010, 05:50 AM   #101
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For an E92 ZCP '11 Stock Suspension

Camber
-1.7 Front Left/ -1.6 Front Right
-1.9 Left Rear/ -1.7 Right Rear

Front Total Toe
.12

Rear Total Toe
.11
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      08-15-2011, 11:32 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubbles View Post
For an E92 ZCP '11 Stock Suspension

Camber
-1.7 Front Left/ -1.6 Front Right
-1.9 Left Rear/ -1.7 Right Rear

Front Total Toe
.12

Rear Total Toe
.11
Pins pulled or intact?
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      08-15-2011, 11:42 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MORELAP View Post
Pins pulled or intact?
with neg camber in the front like that I assume pulled
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      08-15-2011, 12:02 PM   #104
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I ran -3.5 (F) and -1.5 (R) last monday at NJMP. I'm also -.1 Toe (Front) and 0.05 Toe (R). 275/35x18 No stability issues and much better turn in. 295/30x18 (Rear) - R6s

Auto Cross I run -4.5 (Front) -2.0 (Rear) with same Toe as above and 285/30x18 (Front) and 315/30X18 (Rear) A6s.

Notice the outside front tire is flat on the ground during an aggressive turn in.



another

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      08-15-2011, 01:57 PM   #105
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      09-28-2011, 05:09 PM   #106
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Running -2.5 in front and -2.0 in the rear with R-comps.
Have stock springs and the GC adjustable camber plates in front.

Could move them to -3.5 or back to -1.0 if needed. Like the -2.5 as a all around setting. I do a couple of track days on my street tires so I probably need some inside wear to balance them out
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      09-29-2011, 10:03 AM   #107
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Some pics from a recent event in Mont-Tremblant..

2.0 Camber up front and 1.5 rear. 295/30x18s rear and 275/35x18s front.







Look at this wheel tuck.. Love, love, love Ground Control Suspension






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      09-29-2011, 10:11 AM   #108
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[quote=noxredna;7620491]I ran -3.0 camber on the track this past weekend with 0 toe in the rear and it was very nervous under threshold braking... QUOTE]

I was thinking about this and I've never experienced this to the point I was startled. The cheap and easy way to fix this is pad compounds . Either your rear compound is way out matched by your fronts or the rear bias is way off. I'm running carbotech XP20s upfront and an XP12s in the rear and even at NJMP where I can hit 145-150 on the front straight going into turn 1 (90 degree negative off camber) I don't get "tail wiggle". What spring rates are you running?
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      09-29-2011, 10:40 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MORELAP View Post
Pins pulled or intact?

Pins pulled.
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      10-10-2011, 10:24 AM   #110
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If I'm reading all of this right, it goes like this...

OEM -1.1
w/o pins -1.7
Dinan -2.0
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