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      07-06-2010, 05:50 AM   #1
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Notes on an 2010 E93 M3 Morel/SWS-8/HD900/5 install

This was an install in an MY2010 E93 M3 without iDrive, with the decontented 8-speaker HiFi system (2 rear tweeters missing). The idea was to keep the interior and trunk look and space intact, no cutting of any OEM wires and the absolute minimum of non-visible modifications possible.

Very few photos were taken as most of this type of installation has been already documented in other threads (especially the SWS-8 install). However, there are a couple of "notes" to be considered for those interested in installing speakers in a Convertible/Coupe in particular, due to the limited space in the front door panels compared with the Sedan.

The equipment to be installed was:

- Morel Hybrid Ovation II component set (front doors)
- Morel Integra Ovation XO coaxial (rear panel)
- SWS-8 (4 ohms, underseat)
- JL Audio MHD900/5 (Marine version as the vendor did not have the mobile version available in stock)

No processor of any kind for now.

Preparation:



Because I only have one particular day to install all this equipment and in the place of work of the owner, all the pre-wiring, connectors and speaker mounts have to be built and completed pre-install. Pictured above are the four Morel crossovers, a prototype HiFi OEM amp harness (availability for public sell soon) with speaker, remote and RCA cables already labeled and ready to connect, custom-made Morel speaker rings for the front doors and the elusive OEM speaker connectors, for a PnP connection to existing OEM jacks in the doors.

Front doors install:

The first thing that you will notice in an E92/E93 front door panels is how shallow they are for aftermarket speakers, with just a maximum of 35mm of depth available for speakers and its magnets. The second thing that you will notice is that the Hybrid Ovations are 50mm deep:



To find an extra 15mm of space to avoid hitting the window mechanism with the Morel magnet while keeping the OEM grilles, the grilles themselves have to be modified by cutting their mounting tabs:



... and then fixing them on the Morels:



The custom-made MDF mounting rings were fixed from the back of the door panel with Dynamat and the Morel were installed from the front of the door panel. The crossover were mounted inside the door panel as well, with all the speaker connections secured with Dynamat as well:



The Morel tweeter was too big to snap in the OEM tweeter pod, so the tabs were cut and the Morel tweeter just placed in the OEM foam insulation so it is held by the foam pressure itself once the tweeter pod is re-installed.

Rear coaxial:

The current HiFi system does not have tweeters in the rear, so a Integra coaxial set was chosen as the OEM replacement. The rear panel does not have the space limitation of the front door panel, so the OEM grill did not have to be cut. In this particular case, I decided to use Dynamat as the mounting bracket again as it really can hold speakers in place in all weather and road vibrations, with the benefit of it s excellent malleability to fit anywhere and any form tightly:





The rear crossovers cannot fit inside the rear panel, so they were installed behind the lower rear seat back cushion.

SWS-8: They were the easiest to install by using the jtsherri spacers, no need to even remove the enclosures just the OEM woofers. The spacers were prepared with the wires and connectors to match both the SWS-8 and the OEM connector jack, so this was also PnP.

MHD900/5:

Because the HiFi harness was pre-made to match this particular amp connections, it was just a matter of plugging all the labeled connectors in:



Battery connections were made to the distribution block and the ground terminal using the OEM connectors and a 60A fuse.

Sound quality improvement: I will leave the actual review to the owner, but for sure he's extremely happy...
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      07-06-2010, 11:37 AM   #2
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Nice write-up, T. A couple of questions:

The mounting frame for the E92 speakers is the same as the E90, but I don't see in your pic where the OEM speaker would bolt to the door panel. Did you also remove those bosses? Otherwise, wouldn't you just use the mounting ring you speak of to use them to mount the speaker to the door mechanically?


I've snapped many Morel tweeters in the BMW pods - there is a tab inside the mount which must be trimmed with an xacto knife. Did you try this?

Where did you set all the xover jumpers before installing them where you did?
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      07-06-2010, 12:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
Nice write-up, T. A couple of questions:

The mounting frame for the E92 speakers is the same as the E90, but I don't see in your pic where the OEM speaker would bolt to the door panel. Did you also remove those bosses? Otherwise, wouldn't you just use the mounting ring you speak of to use them to mount the speaker to the door mechanically?
The OEM speaker frame with the three screws was used to fix the MDF mounting ring to the door and then Dynamat was used. The Morel speaker (with the OEM grille fixed to it) just snaps from the front of the panel into the mounting ring using the pressure tabs on the sides of the speaker. That way the grille keep the tight look into the leather.

If the removable brackets (screw mount) were to be used with this speaker the magnet would have hit the window. We tried it... and we hit it.

This is no Sedan like mine, where I used those brackets and Dynamat as well without any issues (bolts are missing from these photos but installed before putting the panel back in):




If I ever install these Morels in a Coupe/Convertible again I would custom-design the mounting ring in ABS plastic with molded in tabs so it will held both the speaker and the OEM grille from the front of the door panel. The MDF worked great, but I had cut and glue two MDF rings as perfect as possible together to match the door panel, and that was a lot of work.

Quote:
I've snapped many Morel tweeters in the BMW pods - there is a tab inside the mount which must be trimmed with an xacto knife. Did you try this?
This was another surprise... this convertible tweeter pod has a very deep and thick ring between the mounting tabs, so the Morel tweeter could not get into the OEM mount deep enough to clear one screw in that metal sail. So those rings got to go as well.

I was expecting to install them as I did in my Sedan but the mount was really different (my Sedan photo; no photos of the Convertible mount, sorry):



Quote:
Where did you set all the xover jumpers before installing them where you did?
I left the Morel crossover jumpers at factory setting (tweeters at 0dB, mid/woofers at 12db slope) at the owner's desire. Set the underseat to 170-180Hz LP, front and back to 100Hz HP with the HD900/5 crossovers, and kept the gains at minimum (7 o'clock) for the front/back and 8 o'clock for the SWS-8.
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      07-06-2010, 01:13 PM   #4
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Interesting how different the E93 is from the E90. Would you say the clearances for the E92 are similar to the E93 or closer to the E90?
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      07-06-2010, 01:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
Interesting how different the E93 is from the E90. Would you say the clearances for the E92 are similar to the E93 or closer to the E90?
E92 and E93 clearances should be identical.
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      07-06-2010, 01:39 PM   #6
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I'm aware it's not a sedan.

I've seen at least one really good installer make a stepped ring on a router, which uses the OEM bolt holes, but doesn't locate the driver frame against the door. It moves the driver frame forwards, into the grille cavity. This allows retention of the mechanical mounting system, while gaining the space needed.

So, no, using the OEM bolts does not necessarily mean that the driver hits the window. Using them as if it was a sedan, I'm sure they do hit the window.

I'm looking for the pic I was sent, to illustrate more clearly what I mean.
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      07-06-2010, 01:40 PM   #7
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The tweeter sounds like the mount in the E70 X5 (very shallow, bolt right behind it, hits the Morel tweeter magnet). Needed significant (but not visible) mod to the sail tabs to get it in there.
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      07-06-2010, 02:04 PM   #8
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There is a member here that was able to fit the Esotar 430 drivers in his E93 using just the standard type ring I made for the E90. The Esotars are only listed at 42mm deep though so he's probably right on the edge as far as clearance.
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      07-06-2010, 02:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
I'm aware it's not a sedan.

I've seen at least one really good installer make a stepped ring on a router, which uses the OEM bolt holes, but doesn't locate the driver frame against the door. It moves the driver frame forwards, into the grille cavity. This allows retention of the mechanical mounting system, while gaining the space needed.

So, no, using the OEM bolts does not necessarily mean that the driver hits the window. Using them as if it was a sedan, I'm sure they do hit the window.

I'm looking for the pic I was sent, to illustrate more clearly what I mean.
The stepped MDF ring made here moves the driver frame into the grille cavity (around 15mm approximately), however the OEM grille mounting tabs are in the way of the Morel frame regardless of the MDF ring.

If the tabs are kept the speaker cannot be moved into the grille cavity.
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      07-06-2010, 02:10 PM   #10
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BTW, I don't envy you having to do this install. The rear and trunk locations looks horrible to work in. Especially for someone like me who cant contort my body into small spaces like I used to.

I just finished an install this weekend on my brother's corvette and that car was equally as bad to work in. We ended up just removing all the seat to make enough room to work.
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      07-06-2010, 02:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
There is a member here that was able to fit the Esotar 430 drivers in his E93 using just the standard type ring I made for the E90. The Esotars are only listed at 42mm deep though so he's probably right on the edge as far as clearance.
There is around 3-4mm from the grille mounting tab top to the edge of the door panel surface. If you press the speaker frame against the grill tabs hard enough you could gain another 1-2 mm... that's at the most 6mm extra in usable space between these 42mm Esotars from the 50mm deep Morels. Add the 8mm difference and there you go, no need to cut the tabs.
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      07-06-2010, 04:07 PM   #12
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Here are pics of Don's install you're referring to:





Doesn't it look like he opened up the backside of the door panel a bit? I'm not certain...
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      07-06-2010, 04:45 PM   #13
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It's interesting that no one seems to have a problem installing the HO 4"s in an e90. I know there's "supposed" to be plenty of room. Unfortunately, mine hit the window on both sides. Wasn't obvious until I rolled up the windows. The driver side just barely rubs the window enough to see the door panel move. The pass side was close enough to tear the vapor barrier. Looks like I'm just going to install them from the front like you have above. Just a heads up for others. I really don't know why mine are hitting. I'm using the same setup as VPElectricity has.
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      07-06-2010, 05:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i View Post
It's interesting that no one seems to have a problem installing the HO 4"s in an e90. I know there's "supposed" to be plenty of room. Unfortunately, mine hit the window on both sides. Wasn't obvious until I rolled up the windows. The driver side just barely rubs the window enough to see the door panel move. The pass side was close enough to tear the vapor barrier. Looks like I'm just going to install them from the front like you have above. Just a heads up for others. I really don't know why mine are hitting. I'm using the same setup as VPElectricity has.
If you're pulling your door panels soon, I'd like to see pics of your mounting setup. Perhaps I can make some suggestions.

I initially had rubbing problems with the Rainbow Vanadiums I test-fit a long time ago, so I know what they look like. I have also seen rubbing problems in an X3 before modding the mounting to fix that.
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      07-06-2010, 05:32 PM   #15
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I will definetly get pics up soon. Just waiting on camera battery to recharge. I sandwiched the speaker between the 2 mounting plates and placed weatherstrip on the front plate to seal to the door. I think I've already got a solution. I've taken the two rings off and the speaker JUST does fit into the door opening. With the speaker sitting in the plate with the weatherstripping and placed into the opening, it fits pretty tight without any rattling. I'll get the pics up later tonight.
I guess what I'm eluding to others is this. Don't assume everything will fit just because no one seems to have any issues fitting a particular speaker into the door panels. Always expect the worst and hope for the best.
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      07-06-2010, 05:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i View Post
I will definetly get pics up soon. Just waiting on camera battery to recharge. I sandwiched the speaker between the 2 mounting plates and placed weatherstrip on the front plate to seal to the door. I think I've already got a solution. I've taken the two rings off and the speaker JUST does fit into the door opening. With the speaker sitting in the plate with the weatherstripping and placed into the opening, it fits pretty tight without any rattling. I'll get the pics up later tonight.
I guess what I'm eluding to others is this. Don't assume everything will fit just because no one seems to have any issues fitting a particular speaker into the door panels. Always expect the worst and hope for the best.
As you can see in my photo above, you cannot use any ring/spacer between the door panel opening and this speaker in the E90. The speaker "face" has to be flush with the opening surface.
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      07-06-2010, 05:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i View Post
I sandwiched the speaker between the 2 mounting plates
Yeah, you want the single plate against the back of the door panel, and the driver loaded against the inward-facing surface.

Quote:
Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i View Post

Always expect the worst and hope for the best.
Truer words about car audio installation were never spoken... 'cept I'd say "Plan for the worst..."

Many folks just aren't as paranoid as I have become over the years.
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      07-06-2010, 06:12 PM   #18
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Nice job Technic.

(BTW, those Esotars are the SEX.)
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      07-06-2010, 06:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post

That must be the Esotar I was talking about because that looks a lot like my adapter plate. That driver is way shallow compared to the Morel. Can't tell if the hole looks bigger than it should be though.
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      07-06-2010, 07:58 PM   #20
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This is how I installed the speakers at first...The WRONG way!!!
[IMG][/IMG]

Then the result...
[IMG][/IMG]

Then the RIGHT way...
[IMG][/IMG]
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      07-06-2010, 09:36 PM   #21
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Where did you get those plates?
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      07-07-2010, 12:03 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
Where did you get those plates?
Did a little light bulb come on around 12:30am?...
What idiot needs instructions on how to install a simple adapter plate over a 4" speaker and into the door of a car? Oh...wait...That'd be me!
Everything can and will be fixed. Again, be sure to double...no...triple check everything while doing this kind of work. Just because it's worked for someone before doesn't mean YOU won't have any problems. We can always misinterpret someone's direction and get it totaly screwed up! Look at the results above. Thankfully, we do have some VERY knowledgable and skilled people on these boards to provide us some direction and awsome products.
Both Technic's wiring harness and VPElectricity's speaker plates are perfect fitting products! When used properly... Thanks for your help guys!
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