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      10-24-2009, 11:48 PM   #45
Thinker23
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Just did this today and had a hell of a time taking off the front pads opposite the piston which had adhesive backing!!! I believe that the adhesive backing prevents break squeel. Is this new to 09s?

Thanks for the DIY.
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      12-10-2009, 03:51 PM   #46
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Thanks for the great DIY lucid!!
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      12-10-2009, 09:51 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thinker23 View Post
Just did this today and had a hell of a time taking off the front pads opposite the piston which had adhesive backing!!! I believe that the adhesive backing prevents break squeel. Is this new to 09s?

Thanks for the DIY.
I think the anti-squel gel is recommended by BMW in general (part #14 in the diagram). I didn't have a hard time taking my OEM pads out, but it sounds like you had a different experience. Also, it appears that the gel also eliminates "clatter". I don't use the gel, and my pads kind of rattle a little when I hit bumps, or is it my suspension coming apart!?
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      12-18-2009, 02:11 AM   #48
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The gel was not there on the front pads opposite the piston but a double sided tape like adhesive.
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      12-23-2009, 04:57 PM   #49
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Yes, awesome thread, thanks lucid!!!!
Yes make sure you put brakepad grease on the back of the pads where metal to metal is touching, otherwise you will get squeeking noises. Awesome DIY-thread. I always changed the brakes on my STI but was little worried changing myself on this car because I've never changed brakes on the new M3 so this helps out alot. And I hate dropping my car to others, much rather do this kind of work myself.
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      12-23-2009, 07:58 PM   #50
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great diy. thanks bro.
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      03-28-2010, 09:50 AM   #51
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Some comments on my first break pad change EVER:

* overall it took me a little bit more than 2 1/2 hours to change them...compared to ~ 1 hour for the experienced guys. So were did I lose time? 1)Removing and putting back the anti-rattle springs has been one of the sources of frustration. I now realize how easy it is to remove the back ones: no need to use a screw driver, just press with your two thumbs in the direction of the arrow and they come gently out. The front is a little bit tougher so you need the screw driver but it is not too bad to put them back in.
2) be careful when you put the break wear sensor, make sure you do not drop the little clip... otherwise you might end up having to remove again the caliper to find it somewhere down there.
3) I also lost some time to find a proper location to jack the car in the back and then put it on the jack stands... although not different from the previous models, remember again that this was my first time, so I had to check on-line for the best location, etc... I ended up jacking below the rear diff, but not the aluminum piece that is there to dissipate heat. Next time I or someone does this, we should take pics.
4) for the allen hex 7mm, I would definitely recommend using a ratchet wrench to put them back on due to the tight space you have to work with in there.

...overall not a difficult job and I am looking forward to dropping my times the next time around. thanks again Lucid for the write up.
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      04-09-2010, 12:10 AM   #52
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Glad you managed to change your pads. Which pads did you get. Is that for your upcoming track day?

I change the front pads and all 4 wheels before each track day. The whole process takes me about 1 hour.

Have fun. Looking forward to hearing about the track day.
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      04-09-2010, 04:58 PM   #53
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Thanks Lucid...you made it easy for me to install my new performance friction pads
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      04-09-2010, 09:11 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadeD1 View Post
Thanks Lucid...you made it easy for me to install my new performance friction pads
If you look in the brakes section, I had an issue with rattling PHF pads today at the track. Let me know if you had the same thing...i.e they rattled when they got hot.

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      04-10-2010, 12:24 PM   #55
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Get a good 7 mm allen wrench guys, makes it easier to reach back there and change them.
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      05-15-2010, 03:17 PM   #56
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I plan on using the DIY tips to install my XP10s for the first time. Do I need to bleed the brakes after install?
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      05-15-2010, 04:02 PM   #57
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very nice thank you
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      05-16-2010, 09:21 PM   #58
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I successfully installed my XP10s for the first time. It did take me awhile since I broke a socket taking off the wheel and had to run to Sears. Probably can do it in 1.5 hours next time.

A couple questions:
1) I did have brake pad glue on the outside OEM pads in the front. Had to pry them out. Do you need to remove the all of the adhesive residue before putting in the XP10s? Should I glue the OEMs pads when I put them back on?
2) I noticed some white residue on the allen bolts. Should I be using loctite on the bolts? Is that just for corrosion protection?
3) I could not figure out how to put the brake sensors back on the XP10s so I just used cable ties to secure them and saved the spring. Will the car start throwing error codes since the brake sensors are not attached?
4) Do I have to bed the OEM pads when I put them back on?
5) Are steel bake lines a good idea if I am only tracking it 6-7 days year?
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      06-30-2010, 08:58 AM   #59
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Being a Technical Writer by profession, I just had to revise the already-good document Lucid wrote. I added some info that should help first-timers, and made a few changes that should save time. I changed the list of tools as well, to coincide with the revised steps. Two noteworthy changes include doing one side at a side (rather than one corner at a time) and using pliers to remove the anti-rattle springs (safer and easier than prying with screw drivers). Please see attached.
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File Type: pdf E92 Front Brake Pad Replacement.pdf (534.1 KB, 595 views)
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      07-01-2010, 06:26 PM   #60
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You my friend is a life saver.. thank you so much for taking the effort!
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      07-03-2010, 06:16 PM   #61
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I tried this today. It went fine until I had to reinstall the anti-rattle spring (#8). Removing it was easy, but I can't get it back in. Any suggestion?

Do you do one side at at time, or both at the same time?

Thanks.
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      07-03-2010, 09:56 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivendriver View Post
I tried this today. It went fine until I had to reinstall the anti-rattle spring (#8). Removing it was easy, but I can't get it back in. Any suggestion?

Do you do one side at at time, or both at the same time?

Thanks.
It doesnt matter how many you do. The spring can be re-installed with finger pressure and a little help of a screw driver to coax it into place. I have an E92 non-M and find the rears a little difficult. Nothing that a flat head screw driver cant help with. I hope you made out ok.
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      07-04-2010, 08:36 AM   #63
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It doesnt matter how many you do. The spring can be re-installed with finger pressure and a little help of a screw driver to coax it into place. I have an E92 non-M and find the rears a little difficult. Nothing that a flat head screw driver cant help with. I hope you made out ok.
Thanks for the reply. I must be doing something wrong because I still can't put it back in. I tried putting the bottom tip and the center first, and then deforming the top tip, but that didn't work.

The tensioner clip on the wear sensor is also a bit of a pain. Twice I've let it fall back into the caliper, so I had to remove the caliper again to get the clip back.

And it's only the first wheel. I guess this thread needed someone like me to highlight the pitfalls for the non-mechanically inclined . The last time I changed brake pads was several years ago on a kart .
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      07-04-2010, 12:00 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivendriver View Post


Thanks for the reply. I must be doing something wrong because I still can't put it back in. I tried putting the bottom tip and the center first, and then deforming the top tip, but that didn't work.

The tensioner clip on the wear sensor is also a bit of a pain. Twice I've let it fall back into the caliper, so I had to remove the caliper again to get the clip back.

And it's only the first wheel. I guess this thread needed someone like me to highlight the pitfalls for the non-mechanically inclined . The last time I changed brake pads was several years ago on a kart .
I think everyone that has taken this up has hit the same issues. I'll have to admit the first time was a little awkward, but with each time it becomes easier.

I use a good set of tight fitting mechanics gloves so that I can use my hands and found that I can push the outer edges of the clips to where they would normally go. This only leaves pushing the center tongue into its recessed groove. The odd time I may need to use a screw driver to help lift it up whilst I push it so that it falls into the groove.

For the little clip on the brake sensor, I use a small precision needle nose plier to close the clip so that it fits snug on the brake sensor. That should help it from falling off as you put the brake sensor clip bake in.

G'luck.
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      08-21-2010, 08:13 PM   #65
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Rotors and Brakes install tips from an E90 dude

Rotors and Brakes install tips from an E90 dude!

There are a few things to consider while completing this task. Depending on your car, how long you have owned it, and your tire dust accumulation, corrosion might have built up around lugs and rotor connection to the bearing hub. This corrosion will make stubborn work out of removing the tires and rotors.

Don't be afraid to use some "muscle" on these things!


First- the tires: Once you have it on jacks, with the lugs out...give the tire a few hard heel kicks. This will make the tire fall right off. 



Second- the Caliper Retaining bolts: It took me a while to crack these with an impact wrench even after spraying liquid wrench and hanging on them with the standard wrench for a couple of hours. These bolts had to either be installed by machine or another ye-haw with an impact wrench. 



Third- the Rotors: 
Take the setscrew out and bring out the big guns. Grab your sledgehammer and give a hard whack in this order 3:00,9:00, 6:00, 12:00.This may be the reason BMW specs out new rotors on this change. It will loosen and you need to take some brake cleaner and wire brush to what remains. Spray clean and put on anti-seize fluid all around the bearing. 



Fourth- Sensor install: Keep in mind that the sensor connection is underneath the under-lining of the wheel well. There are 6 bolts to take off in order to have enough room to disconnect old one and connect the new one. You must install this or your warning lights will continue to trip.



The last tip - you may not want to overlook this: Brake Pad install:
The springs on the back of two brake pads are pliable. The EBC Low Dust pads, I purchased for my E90, one of them (1 of 2 within each set) had a spring on the back which was sprawled out so far it would not go into the brake piston. So I bent the bottom one just enough to change the angle slightly, used a vice grip to compress the top springs, and it fit right in. Once it was in there, I then used a flat head screwdriver to bend the spring back to its original position.

Installed:

2x Centric Rotors - Rear

4x EBC Red Stuff low dust pads

Realistic time: 3 hours - Depending on your tools and help... I would estimate at least 30 minutes per side
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      08-29-2010, 05:20 PM   #66
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Following a very satisfying brake pad job in an hour and a half today, I'd like to add two things:

- first, instead of "suffering" with a regular 7mm allen key, I highly recommend getting the following hex bit that you will be able to use with your ratchet... and save loads of time: http://www.bimmertools.com/7MM-Stubb...p/ahbmw307.htm

- also, I have come to realize that you can easily remove the anti-rattle springs without any tools!! Just push in the direction of the axle and gently lift the back... it comes right out and goes right back in this way.

The first time, it took me probably 3 hours or so to change the pads and now it is a real piece of cake. On this high note.... I am back to the American Le Mans series....
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