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      02-19-2010, 05:06 PM   #1
John Tanglewood
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Just Got Back from Dealer, No 2010's, what should I be paying??

Hey guys,

So I said (in a past thread) that I was going to move to a "stripped" M3 after canceling the order on my $61k 335is.

I test drove a blk/silver 4 door with EDC and MDM (didn't need to test drive, just wanted to), and it only confirmed more that I wanted the car.

I asked the dealer about how his inventory of 10's was looking, and he said, "you're sitting in it". Literally at the dealer, he only had a 4dr, Auto Coupe, and Vert. He told me he could try to swap with another dealer but it would be a bad idea because i'd be getting a car that people have been test driving and beating to death.

Needless to say, I priced out 2 cars--one with ideal options, and one with minimal options. The car with minimal options (Leather, Alarm*, Assist*, ipod, EDC, phone dock*-----starred items are those I probably don't need) came out to $66,xxx, and after $3k worth of taxes stood at $69k .

The one with ideal options (basically everything I said + tech package) came to $71k.

If I was going to pursue the minimally-optioned M3, what do you think a fair closing price would put me at? My mother is purchasing a 1 series at the same time as my purchase, so the dealer assured me he would work with the price. I am also going to be trading in my WRX, but that is a mute point as my dealer is unaware of this.

Looking forward to what some of you think. At this point a used M3 may be out of the question because my father is insisting on going through the BMW dealership to "keep it in the family". I tried checking CPO inventories on BMW's site and there is pretty much nothing.

Thanks for suggestions --
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      02-19-2010, 05:53 PM   #2
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order a 'stripper' m3?
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      02-19-2010, 06:08 PM   #3
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Are you buying it, or is your dad buying it?

If you are buying, look into used. I was fortunate enough to get mine during the great fire sale of the 08 models in early 09. New Coupes and Sedans were around mid to lower $50k's. Cars.com alone has tons of 08s for right at =<$50k. If price is a big factor and you can get over not driving new, saving $15k+ going low milage used is the way to go.


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Originally Posted by John Tanglewood View Post

Looking forward to what some of you think. At this point a used M3 may be out of the question because my father is insisting on going through the BMW dealership to "keep it in the family". I tried checking CPO inventories on BMW's site and there is pretty much nothing.
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      02-19-2010, 06:26 PM   #4
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If you are buying two cars at the same time, I think that you should be able to easily negotiate 500 over invoice. If they are agreeable on that, its just a matter of how many of those options you need.
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      02-19-2010, 07:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirploppy View Post
Are you buying it, or is your dad buying it?

If you are buying, look into used.
I am buying, but my father is doing the negotiating because he is buying the car for my mother. However I said I'd like to go through this dealer because of the amount of business we have done with them in the past. I suppose if we can't agree on a price then I may have no other choice but to go used.

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If you are buying two cars at the same time, I think that you should be able to easily negotiate 500 over invoice. If they are agreeable on that, its just a matter of how many of those options you need.
That's certainly fair, is it common to get $500 over invoice?
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      02-19-2010, 10:25 PM   #6
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Most people on here would say thats the highest they would pay.
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      02-20-2010, 03:13 AM   #7
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This is what people have been paying on the 2011s:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346708

For pricing reference:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346959 (look at the invoice pdf)
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      02-20-2010, 04:36 AM   #8
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Get the minimally appointed one for as close to invoice as possible. Throwing in the purchase of a whole other car should be incentive enough for your dealer to come down.

Otherwise, I have to advise you walk, since your loyalty isn't getting you much and giving them everything. Invoice provides the dealer a fair profit, especially for these cars.

Also, I will be selling my current car on consignment and letting another dealer sell it for me for a fee. This will be a much higher value than a straight trade-in.

EDIT:
To sum up: Invoice is $55,905.00 for the E92. Add:

$875 destinantion charge
$1300 Gas Guzzler
$950 Non-extended leather
$1000 EDC
$400 iPod

$64055.80 with 6% CT sales tax. Much less than what he's quoting you, but still $3K over your budget of $61K.
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Last edited by J-9; 02-20-2010 at 07:36 AM.
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      02-20-2010, 11:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outie View Post
This is what people have been paying on the 2011s:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346708

For pricing reference:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346959 (look at the invoice pdf)
Woww thanks, I had the pricing references, but I never saw that thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-9 View Post
Get the minimally appointed one for as close to invoice as possible. Throwing in the purchase of a whole other car should be incentive enough for your dealer to come down.

Otherwise, I have to advise you walk, since your loyalty isn't getting you much and giving them everything. Invoice provides the dealer a fair profit, especially for these cars.

Also, I will be selling my current car on consignment and letting another dealer sell it for me for a fee. This will be a much higher value than a straight trade-in.

EDIT:
To sum up: Invoice is $55,905.00 for the E92. Add:

$875 destinantion charge
$1300 Gas Guzzler
$950 Non-extended leather
$1000 EDC
$400 iPod

$64055.80 with 6% CT sales tax. Much less than what he's quoting you, but still $3K over your budget of $61K.
$64 is manageable, thanks for putting in my tax -- The tax is the killer, but it could be worse in other states I guess. The reason it was still higher than that was the addition of the alarm and BMW assist. Not sure how badly I need those (alarm *could* be handy on a $60k car lol).

I appreciate the advice. My entire thought process when going into this was based on the fact that I could find a 2010 and get it in the $50's. I didn't want a 2011 because I knew I would have to pay more than I was comfortable with. Those points are now pretty much mute. For sure, I may have to walk if I don't get my price. Thanks again though.

Thank god dealers are open today so I can do some talking!
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      02-20-2010, 12:01 PM   #10
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Just playing devil's advocate for the more optioned car,

Is that what you'd really like (M3 with the Tech package)? Are a few thousand worth it to compromise on what you'd really want?

On the other hand, is that remaining '10 what you really want to begin with? That is, is that a color combo you really like, and does it have all the options you want?

I couldn't order a 2010 335i like I wanted, and I had to make some choices (2011 or remaining 2010).

IMHO, don't factor in the price difference (between 335is or M3 Option A or M3 Option B). Go from, (1) What you really want; & (2) Limit of what you're willing to pay.

Finally, can I ask, as I've never test driven the M3 (might have been a mistake, but not uncorrectable ), did you miss at all the greater low-end torque of the 335i? Thanks!
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      02-20-2010, 12:05 PM   #11
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Just wanted to add:

The reason I recommend what I bolded in my reply above is because:

- I've had doubts after picking a car that was a "great deal" but not exactly what I wanted.

- I've never had doubts after buying exactly what I wanted even if I paid more and it wasn't a great deal.

In my humble experience, deals are often not great when things are more desirable. In general. Supply and demand....
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      02-20-2010, 01:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JulieDriving View Post

IMHO, don't factor in the price difference (between 335is or M3 Option A or M3 Option B). Go from, (1) What you really want; & (2) Limit of what you're willing to pay.

Finally, can I ask, as I've never test driven the M3 (might have been a mistake, but not uncorrectable ), did you miss at all the greater low-end torque of the 335i? Thanks!
I havn't driven a 335 for 3 years, so I can't really remember the torque, so no, I don't miss it. All the power in the M is in the high revs, and once your start getting past 6k you are absolutely flying. The power is enough to provide you good acceleration in all gears regardless of speed.

I am at a point where I really do not mind "settling". It comes down to a difference between price ranges. Mine is 50-61, so adding options that would put me into the mid 60's is out of my range, and I have to adjust accordingly.

I appreciate the insight because a car is the LAST thing you want to have any regrets with considering you'll be driving it every day for the next 3 years minimum.
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