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      11-02-2009, 09:14 PM   #89
GregW / Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sehrgut View Post
Amasing writeup, I will be doing my oilchange this weekend. I have always done all the oilchanges myself on my previous cars and this will be my first on a E92 M3 so I'm a bit thrilled but also kinda nervous because theres no dipstick and I'm a bit concerned about the service light after I've changed the oil.

Do I have to reset it manually or will the car automaticly pick up that I've changed the oil?
If you are doing a mid-point change (e.g., 7k miles) you should not reset the light. If you are doing a regular change, why (free with maintenance plan).
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      11-03-2009, 03:47 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
If you are doing a mid-point change (e.g., 7k miles) you should not reset the light. If you are doing a regular change, why (free with maintenance plan).
Yes correct, I'm at 6580 miles right now and about to change oil so its just a mid-point before the 15000 general service.
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      11-03-2009, 09:36 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sehrgut View Post
Yes correct, I'm at 6580 miles right now and about to change oil so its just a mid-point before the 15000 general service.
in that case, do not reset the oil change light. otherwise your next service would be even further away. just change the oil and filter and leave the computers alone.
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      11-07-2009, 10:23 PM   #92
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thanks, I did leave the ecu alone after i changed the oil.
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      11-08-2009, 02:26 AM   #93
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damnit i have a restraint passanger malfunction code and with that on I can't seem to check the oillevel?!?!? How fast does it take the oil level sensor for your car to read the level by the way?
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      12-16-2009, 06:07 PM   #94
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Quote:
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damnit i have a restraint passanger malfunction code and with that on I can't seem to check the oillevel?!?!? How fast does it take the oil level sensor for your car to read the level by the way?
Once the engine is at normal operating temp, about a minute.
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      12-16-2009, 06:16 PM   #95
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First, thanks everyone for all of the info posted here. It was really useful info.

I just changed my oil, 5086 miles, and I noticed a couple of things that differ from the original write up.

1. So far as I could tell, my drain plugs were identical. One of them, the one farther towards the front of the car, did have a blue dot written using a marker, just like you can see in the pics posted by GregW.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=21

2. It took 35 NM of torque to loosen my drain plugs, rather than the 18 NM and 10 NM suggested in the original write up. Consequently, I tightened both drain plugs to 35 NM. Actually, when I saw the 18 NM and 10 NM, that seemed quite low to me, and 35 NM is more like what I would expect.
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      12-16-2009, 06:26 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garek View Post
2. It took 35 NM of torque to loosen my drain plugs, rather than the 18 NM and 10 NM suggested in the original write up. Consequently, I tightened both drain plugs to 35 NM. Actually, when I saw the 18 NM and 10 NM, that seemed quite low to me, and 35 NM is more like what I would expect.
I would not assume the loosening torque equals the correct tightening toque. It often takes more to break a fastener free than its specified tightening torque.
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      12-16-2009, 06:51 PM   #97
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Quote:
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Consequently, I tightened both drain plugs to 35 NM.
That's A LOT man . I always tighten all drain plugs by hand, but if you're not familiar with that feel, don't use more than factory specs, which are already on the high side IMO. You DON'T want to strip the threads on this car's oil pan, believe me. Take care.
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      12-16-2009, 07:30 PM   #98
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Oops. Thanks for the correction guys.
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      12-16-2009, 07:45 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
I would not assume the loosening torque equals the correct tightening toque. It often takes more to break a fastener free than its specified tightening torque.
+1
if you tighten something to a certain torque, its always going to take more to loosen the same bolt. esp if that bolt has been left in place for a while. this is because oxidation occurs on the threads.. so there is some 'sticking' of the bolt and to the bolt hole. this applies to wheel nuts as well.. never over tighten them!
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      01-01-2010, 09:31 PM   #100
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Hi, finally got my car to 7200 miles so I decided to change the oil.

I let it drain out for about an hour. Initially I put in 8 bottles and drove it. It took about 15 minutes of driving before it read. It gave me the warning of "oil below minimum". So I pulled over and poured another half bottle. This time it took about 7 minutes before giving me "oil below minum warning so I pulled over and poured in another half bottle. After 15 minutes of driving it finally wound up in the middle of the meter. Grand total = 9 bottles. I'll drive it around a few days and see if it remains there and drop in 1/4 bottle more oil if it does.



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      01-01-2010, 10:18 PM   #101
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Oil capacity

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Originally Posted by sard View Post
Grand total = 9 bottles. I'll drive it around a few days and see if it remains there and drop in 1/4 bottle more oil if it does.
Not sure why you would put in more thant the stated capacity of 8.8 liters. The electronic system sucks and is slow to react. Trust that the capacity is 8.8L and do not put in more no matter what it says.
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      01-01-2010, 10:47 PM   #102
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GregW, so if I put 9 liters in.. I'll more than likely damage the engine?
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      01-01-2010, 11:29 PM   #103
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You guys sliding up underneath a floor jack are making my heart hurt.......
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      01-02-2010, 01:21 AM   #104
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Quote:
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GregW, so if I put 9 liters in.. I'll more than likely damage the engine?
No. Plus if you overfilled the engine sensor would tell you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
Trust that the capacity is 8.8L and do not put in more no matter what it says.
Depends how long you drain it man. Mine took 9.3 liters to read full, but tech left it draining (both sumps) while at lunch. And sensor is consistent (didn't say 'accurate' since it's graduated in 1/4-lt increments) once engine/oil is at full operating temperature, and done correctly (idling on a flat surface, etc). Take care.
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      01-02-2010, 02:29 AM   #105
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GregW, so if I put 9 liters in.. I'll more than likely damage the engine?
No, that is not a major overfill.
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      01-03-2010, 01:13 AM   #106
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Ok, I've gone for 3 drives, also hit the reset button on the stalk on some of them and it remains at the half way mark. I'd say I'm good to go.
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      01-03-2010, 05:27 PM   #107
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You guys sliding up underneath a floor jack are making my heart hurt.......
yeah guys use jack stands!
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      01-03-2010, 08:41 PM   #108
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The pictures were taken as I was finishing up. Although the side front jack points were on the floor jacks, I did put jack stands underneath the car as I was working on it.
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      04-18-2010, 04:30 PM   #109
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Sorry to bring this thread back up, I'd just changed the oil on mine and did some math, 8.8L equals to 9.29 quarts of oil, so Sard, you should be fine with pouring in the whole 9 bottles of oil.
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      04-18-2010, 05:03 PM   #110
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Oil change

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Sorry to bring this thread back up, I'd just changed the oil on mine and did some math, 8.8L equals to 9.29 quarts of oil, so Sard, you should be fine with pouring in the whole 9 bottles of oil.
Not sure I follow your logic - 9 bottles = 9 liters, which is 0.2L overfill.
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