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| 08-03-2009, 11:56 PM | #1 |
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414 little horsies
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OEM Brake Upgrade Questions
I have the 2008 E92 M3 and i haven't done anything to my brakes.
If I Change Brake lines to UUC Stainless Steel Brake lines Change the Brake Fluid to Motul RBF 600, Change the Front Brake Pads to Hawk HP Plus Race Would that make a significant difference in Longevity and Performance? I know that the rest of the Brake Kit will be OEM, does anything else need to be changed? Can the 1 piston set up handle this, and how about the the stock brake rotors? I drive hard, and do a lot canyon, autocross and tracking. The brakes failed on me and had to be replaced. Im getting the car back this week and i want to make sure it doesn't happen again. I wish i could get a BBK but its too much at the time Thanks for the help guys....
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Race Precision Inc
Last edited by Splinter4784; 08-05-2009 at 01:47 PM. |
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| 08-04-2009, 12:46 AM | #2 |
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Major General
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Brake ducts would really help at the track/autocross, but there are no kits available yet.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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| 08-04-2009, 08:58 PM | #3 |
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Major General
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How did the brakes fail on you exactly? Why were they replaced? What was replaced?
I hope you are not referring to the false "warped rotor" diagnosis (vibration under braking), which is a result of using the stock pads on the track or during performance driving (which you shouldn't) because that is not a failed brake system but a pad deposit issue and it goes away with time.
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| 08-05-2009, 03:13 PM | #6 |
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Major General
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Well, my point is that the pad deposit issue is often mis-diagnosed as a warped rotor. Did they make measurements on your rotor to positively conclude that it has been warped? Otherwise, it most likely was a deposit issue. If you keep on using the stock pads, the un-even deposits eventually go away and so does the vibration, but that takes several weeks. Alternatively, you can take the rotor out and sand it (I've never tried it, but was told it would work). And if it was the stock pads that caused the uneven deposit, in my experience, using a much more aggressive pad (track pad) does clear your rotor of the stock pad deposits (or at least it solves the vibration issue--I don't know to what extent the deposits are actually removed), but your experience might vary.
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| 08-18-2009, 01:03 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
You also want to look at upgrading the rear pads as well. BMW rear brakes actually do some work, they are not just along for the ride. Look into a high performance street pad that is suitable for light track use as well. With stock pads, people usually go beyond their operational temperature, pad upgrade may just do the trick for you. |
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| 08-18-2009, 11:26 AM | #8 | |
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Captain
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An intermediate upgrade, though still noisy, is the Ferodo DS2500. Talk to Dave at Zechausen. Their cold bite is pretty poor though. If the dealer is offering new rotors to replace your "warped" units, then take them. I am pretty sure your issue is due to pad deposites (as everyone else is pointing out) - but there is always the possibility you got bad rotors from the factory. I've tracked maybe 8 sets of motorsports rotors (same design) on my old E46M3, and never warped one. Good luck!
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