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      12-16-2008, 01:04 AM   #1
doba_s
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Question How to bleed brakes ?

any DIY on how to bleed brakes on m 3 ?
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      01-29-2009, 03:31 PM   #2
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Bump.. Anyone?
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      03-01-2009, 11:55 PM   #3
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so no DIY on how to change the fluid ?
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      03-02-2009, 12:33 AM   #4
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here is some info

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm
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      03-02-2009, 12:47 AM   #5
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you can purchase a tool that you hook up and it will pump and bleed the lines
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      03-02-2009, 12:53 AM   #6
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I can't imagine it's much different than any other car. Get the car on jack stands, remove the wheels. Get yourself a length of clear plastic tubing (1/4", I think?) and an empty two liter soda bottle. Stick one end of the tube in the soda bottle, fill the bottle with fresh fluid enough to submerge the tube in fluid.

Remove the cap to the master cylinder, put some rags around it (brake fluid is nasty stuff). If you can, suck out as much of the old stuff as you can with a turkey baster, so you don't have to flush that fluid through. Fill with fresh fluid. Now the fun...

Start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. There will be a little nipple on the caliper with a small nut at the bottom (really, it should be the only nipple on the caliper at all). Cover with the unused end of the tubing. Get your wrench around the nut. Have a friend pump the brakes a couple times and hold the brake pedal down. Once your friend gets to the hold it down stage, open the nut and you'll see fluid coming out the nipple into the bottle. Close the nut, pump and hold brakes, open nut, repeat until fluid runs clean. While all this is going on, make sure your brake fluid reservoir is always topped up - you don't want air in the system. Once the new fluid is coming out, close the nut, move to the next furthest brake and repeat.

The hardest part for me has always been determining when the new fluid has made its way to the caliper. I guess my brake fluid has never been that dirty.

There are also one man bleeder systems out there that work on air pressure. I'm pretty sure there are also kits out there so you don't need to ghetto up a soda bottle, but sometimes the cheap way is just as effective.
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      03-02-2009, 01:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeP View Post
I can't imagine it's much different than any other car. Get the car on jack stands, remove the wheels. Get yourself a length of clear plastic tubing (1/4", I think?) and an empty two liter soda bottle. Stick one end of the tube in the soda bottle, fill the bottle with fresh fluid enough to submerge the tube in fluid.

Remove the cap to the master cylinder, put some rags around it (brake fluid is nasty stuff). If you can, suck out as much of the old stuff as you can with a turkey baster, so you don't have to flush that fluid through. Fill with fresh fluid. Now the fun...

Start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. There will be a little nipple on the caliper with a small nut at the bottom (really, it should be the only nipple on the caliper at all). Cover with the unused end of the tubing. Get your wrench around the nut. Have a friend pump the brakes a couple times and hold the brake pedal down. Once your friend gets to the hold it down stage, open the nut and you'll see fluid coming out the nipple into the bottle. Close the nut, pump and hold brakes, open nut, repeat until fluid runs clean. While all this is going on, make sure your brake fluid reservoir is always topped up - you don't want air in the system. Once the new fluid is coming out, close the nut, move to the next furthest brake and repeat.

The hardest part for me has always been determining when the new fluid has made its way to the caliper. I guess my brake fluid has never been that dirty.

There are also one man bleeder systems out there that work on air pressure. I'm pretty sure there are also kits out there so you don't need to ghetto up a soda bottle, but sometimes the cheap way is just as effective.

thank a lot man ... i should pay you to do that ... so i can watch/help and learn
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      03-03-2009, 12:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doba_s View Post
thank a lot man ... i should pay you to do that ... so i can watch/help and learn
If you catch me on a free weekend, I'd be happy to help. It's not hard, a little time consuming since I tend to fret about things. The Miata guys do occasional tech days where they just gather at someone's house and do stuff - I'm not set up to host, but I wouldn't mind going to one and helping out.
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      03-03-2009, 12:32 AM   #9
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If you track your car and change fluid often consider a Motive pressure bleeder, this one should fit. The Euro version has a beefier alloy cap. Just pump it up with or w/o fluid and bleed each caliper without a helper or the old golf club on the brake pedal hack.

I also use a $300 vacuum bleeder that requires a compressor, but the Motive is just as easy to use....some will debate vacuum versus pressure bleeders, they've both worked well for me.

...look for the Euro and Black Label Euro bleeders for Porsche and BMW
http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=506415963
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      03-03-2009, 04:36 PM   #10
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I would stay away from the pressure bleeder systems, I have seen these put micro bubbles in brake fluid. Eventually they collect into bigger air bubbles and you need to bleed the system again. I would use a vacum bleeder system or the good old fashion way as described above.
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      03-03-2009, 10:35 PM   #11
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Ceep,

Thanks for this info, it is very helpful.

On another BMW board I read that the ABS system keeps a fluid reservoir and therefore is not emptied by the manual method described above. This is the reason the dealership has a machine which performs the fluid exchange.

Anyone else aware of this?
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      03-06-2009, 07:50 PM   #12
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Yes, never heard of anyone having any problems. I see people bleeding their brakes all day long at the track. I'm also a fan of the Motiv power bleeder. Makes the job go smoother and easier.
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      03-07-2009, 01:52 AM   #13
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where can i find the master cylinder?
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      05-14-2009, 07:19 PM   #14
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Where is the fluid reservoir?
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      05-14-2009, 09:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladius View Post
Where is the fluid reservoir?
Haha ... good start man ! I hope you know where the brakes are
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      05-14-2009, 09:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeP View Post
If you catch me on a free weekend, I'd be happy to help. It's not hard, a little time consuming since I tend to fret about things. The Miata guys do occasional tech days where they just gather at someone's house and do stuff - I'm not set up to host, but I wouldn't mind going to one and helping out.
Sorry I didn't see your last post ... Let me know when you are free and we can do it at my place !
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      05-26-2009, 09:15 PM   #17
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Brakes on any modern car can be bled by vacuum, no problem, If you do it often enough, no need to activate ABS pistons IMO, but if you wait too long, it's probably a wise idea to do so, as brake components are not cheap in these cars. That's why I always do it every year if possible. It takes me an hour total, and only costs $15 or so. Cheap insurance.

But yes, the question is where the hell are the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs. They should be on the left side of the car by the master cylinders, so I assume under the left A/C microfilter, which means some disassembly is in order. Geez.
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      05-28-2009, 08:09 PM   #18
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I have used pressure bleeders with my race cars for the past 20+ years without any problems (but no abs to get in the way). With my (street) E46 I used the Motive unit and will use it with the E90. I like stuff that lets me finish a task solo.

I have never had any issue with micro bubbles but I don't doubt it can occur. Here is a DIY for the E46 but the concepts are the same with the E9x.

http://www.bmwm3.org/diy_brake_bleed.shtml
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      05-28-2009, 09:16 PM   #19
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The reservoir turns out to be under the cover on the driver's side up near the windshield. It requires 3 bolts to be removed, which is a bit of a PITA because of the angle and the amount of space under the hood. Under the cover are the 2 cabin microfilters and the reservoir.

I was unable to get the reservoir filter out without damaging it, but I managed to suck out a bunch of the old fluid with the Motiv pressure bleeder.

BTW, the front bleed valves are larger than the rear. I think the fronts are 11mm while the rear are 9mm, so bring all of your wrenches
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      05-30-2009, 06:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladius View Post
I was unable to get the reservoir filter out without damaging it
I always use a large 60cc syringe (with needle squared off) thru one of the slots to avoid removing that thing. If you do the bleed early enough before any sludge forms, it's no problem. I wonder how dealers do it; probably just bleed the reservoir dry (or close) thru one of the bleed valves so they don't have to suck anything; who knows.

Quote:
BTW, the front bleed valves are larger than the rear. I think the fronts are 11mm while the rear are 9mm, so bring all of your wrenches
Yeah, Germans love that. By motorcycle was the same way.

Hey, did you notice if the clutch reservoir was there too? It must be. Also read the slave cylinder bleed valve is accessible (after removing the tranny shield, that is), which is a good thing. Take care.
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