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[BMW M Power Mexico]

Originally Posted by m3larson

BMW M Power - I see you had the front camber changed to -1.4. Did you change the rear camber? Is the rear adjustable? Also, are you running your stocks again and how is the wear on those not that you changed it?

I haven't used the car enough after the track to notice any wear problems.

Don't take too seriously my camber adjustments. I take the car to a good shop that prepares a lot of cars for the track club I attend and a few others. However, their experience is much more extensive with Porsches than with BMWs.

What I did is tell them to go as far as they could both front and rear. When I picked up the car they said they could get -1.4 front and about -2 rear. But when they gave me the computer report it had the alignemnts close to stock so frankly I have no reliable info on what they really did.

I will monitor wear and report back here.

However, tire wear at the track did seem pretty even, night & day compared to my previous run on stock tires & alignment.

[FrenchBoy]

Originally Posted by BMW M Power Mexico

Regarding braking, had Hawk HT-10s in front and stock pads on the rear + ecs tuning steel lines + Motul RBF 600 fluid. No fade, no brake balance issues, nothing. Simply great.

Where did you buy the HT-10 pads for the M3?

Also, I have used HP Plus in the past. How do HT-10 compare to the HP Plus?

Thanks,

[wea]

Thank you for a great report, BMW M Power Mexico.

Happy Cinco de Mayo, Amigo!

[BMW M Power Mexico]

Originally Posted by FrenchBoy

Where did you buy the HT-10 pads for the M3?

Also, I have used HP Plus in the past. How do HT-10 compare to the HP Plus?

Thanks,

I got them from Turner: www.turnermotorsports.com

I have never used HP Plus in the past, so I couldn't compare. I used to run Cool Willies previously on my E46.

The HT-10s worked very well. I had no fade or braking issues.

[M3V8Driver]

Originally Posted by Panda///Monic

I am purchasing a set in 18x10 and run 275/35/28 r comps
But with my aggressive coilover and track alignment with camber at -2.2-2.5 ish setting will the wheels still clear the strut?
looks like everyone in this thread don't have any suspension mods and run the wheel and tire set stock

Shouldn't this be a non issue since our M3s utilize a McPherson type strut up front? I mean, doesn't the strut assembly move with the hub/wheel assembly? So if you only have a 1/4" clearance at -1 degree camber, then shouldn't you still have 1/4" clearance at -2 degree camber? I think the poster is thinking about a double A-arm front suspension where the arms move in and out, but not the shock, thus changing tire/wheel clearance. Please correct me if I'm wrong, as I am new to bimmers. Thanks.

[Dascamel]

Originally Posted by M3V8Driver

Shouldn't this be a non issue since our M3s utilize a McPherson type strut up front? I mean, doesn't the strut assembly move with the hub/wheel assembly? So if you only have a 1/4" clearance at -1 degree camber, then shouldn't you still have 1/4" clearance at -2 degree camber? I think the poster is thinking about a double A-arm front suspension where the arms move in and out, but not the shock, thus changing tire/wheel clearance. Please correct me if I'm wrong, as I am new to bimmers. Thanks.

+1

Only thing I can think of the tire changing size due to temp or load.

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by M3V8Driver

Shouldn't this be a non issue since our M3s utilize a McPherson type strut up front? I mean, doesn't the strut assembly move with the hub/wheel assembly? So if you only have a 1/4" clearance at -1 degree camber, then shouldn't you still have 1/4" clearance at -2 degree camber? I think the poster is thinking about a double A-arm front suspension where the arms move in and out, but not the shock, thus changing tire/wheel clearance. Please correct me if I'm wrong, as I am new to bimmers. Thanks.

You are correct.

[jml]

I've been running a square 18x9.5 ET35 MT1 (10mm front, 12mm rear spacers) with 275 NT01 rubber for a few DEs now. Camber is maxed out f1.4, r2.0. Outside edge tire wear is an issue on both the front and rear, but much worse on the front. The car is perfectly balanced, much better so that my tweaked out moton setup on my old E46. It's nearly as fast with simply rcomps and race pads. Last weekend we were running TWS clockwise; I was hitting the speed governor at the end of the straight and the brakes (HT10 front, DS2500 rear) effortlessly hauled the car back down to 80 lap after lap. Traqmate is not yet in the car, but I'm guessing, based on what a some corner-station friends were telling me, I was in the 1:57-58 range. Not bad for a car with a baby seat in the back, but still a few seconds off the pace of a well setup E46.

There is a lot of talk of a staggered setup in this thread. My recommendation is to stick with a square setup and use spacers to trim. Being able to rotate tires front to rear will give you a lot more life out of your tires. I'm going to experiment with a 10" setup and 285/295 width rubber soon. This car really needs more rubber to compensate for the additional 250lbs of weight. It also needs a lot more neg camber in the front to keep it from shredding tires. It's not a grip issue like it was on the E46 where you needed a lot of neg. camber to help dial out some understeer. The E9X has plenty of front end grip, but it costs about $50 per turn on the track in rubber

[Hellride]

Originally Posted by FrenchBoy

Looks good. I am looking forward to your track report.

Why did you decide on 265/35, 18x9 instead of 275/35, 18x10 for the front?

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267498

[BarryC]

Originally Posted by jml

I've been running a square 18x9.5 ET35 MT1 (10mm front, 12mm rear spacers) with 275 NT01 rubber for a few DEs now. Camber is maxed out f1.4, r2.0. Outside edge tire wear is an issue on both the front and rear, but much worse on the front. The car is perfectly balanced, much better so that my tweaked out moton setup on my old E46. It's nearly as fast with simply rcomps and race pads. Last weekend we were running TWS clockwise; I was hitting the speed governor at the end of the straight and the brakes (HT10 front, DS2500 rear) effortlessly hauled the car back down to 80 lap after lap. Traqmate is not yet in the car, but I'm guessing, based on what a some corner-station friends were telling me, I was in the 1:57-58 range. Not bad for a car with a baby seat in the back, but still a few seconds off the pace of a well setup E46.

There is a lot of talk of a staggered setup in this thread. My recommendation is to stick with a square setup and use spacers to trim. Being able to rotate tires front to rear will give you a lot more life out of your tires. I'm going to experiment with a 10" setup and 285/295 width rubber soon. This car really needs more rubber to compensate for the additional 250lbs of weight. It also needs a lot more neg camber in the front to keep it from shredding tires. It's not a grip issue like it was on the E46 where you needed a lot of neg. camber to help dial out some understeer. The E9X has plenty of front end grip, but it costs about $50 per turn on the track in rubber

BTW - how do you like the NT01's? I just ordered a set today.

Thx!
BC

[jml]

They are probably the best value out there right now. Lots of grip and no heat cycling issues. If you take care of them, they will last 3-4 DE days. You'll need to flip (inside->outside) them after about 2 days. Running them at 40-42psi (after a cool down lap back in the paddock) helps with the outside edge wear.