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      01-04-2009, 09:49 AM   #23
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No chance you found some way to use a mityvac for the whole oil change?
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      01-04-2009, 11:27 AM   #24
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No chance you found some way to use a mityvac for the whole oil change?
Nope, that would be too easy! It took about 20 minutes for the rear sump to quit dripping, by the way.
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      01-04-2009, 12:04 PM   #25
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Both sumps need to be drained correct?
Does the oil from the filter element housing not drain out when you remove the plugs on the bottom?
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      01-04-2009, 12:22 PM   #26
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Both sumps need to be drained correct?
Correct.

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Does the oil from the filter element housing not drain out when you remove the plugs on the bottom?
No, some remains as in the first photo of the housing. It's only about 0.1 liter, but I couldn't stand to leave it in.
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      01-04-2009, 04:04 PM   #27
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good post and pics. I'm about to do my first oil change in about 1000miles. Of course the 1200mile was already done by the dealer so now I'm going to do them by myself for now on. Are there any "packings" or O-rings, gaskets, seals that I should order along with a new filter element? I have the same instructions downloaded but I can't find anything about any oil-filter housing O-rings. I had a 93 Aero saab that had the same internaly type oil filter and there was a O-ring that had to be replaced everytime I took off the oil filter cap.
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      01-04-2009, 04:26 PM   #28
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good post and pics. I'm about to do my first oil change in about 1000miles. Of course the 1200mile was already done by the dealer so now I'm going to do them by myself for now on. Are there any "packings" or O-rings, gaskets, seals that I should order along with a new filter element? I have the same instructions downloaded but I can't find anything about any oil-filter housing O-rings. I had a 93 Aero saab that had the same internaly type oil filter and there was a O-ring that had to be replaced everytime I took off the oil filter cap.
The filter comes with the O-ring for the filter housing cap and two new copper washers for the drain plugs.
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      01-04-2009, 04:36 PM   #29
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Awesome, thanks. I'd ask the dealer when I pick up the filter but wanted to hear from you guys that have already done it.

By the way, since this engine has two sumps. There is no special suction tool or any special procedures needed, right? May be a dumb question but I've done many oil changes on all my prior vehicles but none ever had a dual sump so just wondering.

I've changed oil on Jet Engines and it's just bunch of chip-detector plugs and a filter. Can't be that much more complicated...I hope.
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      01-04-2009, 04:46 PM   #30
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Awesome, thanks. I'd ask the dealer when I pick up the filter but wanted to hear from you guys that have already done it.

By the way, since this engine has two sumps. There is no special suction tool or any special procedures needed, right? May be a dumb question but I've done many oil changes on all my prior vehicles but none ever had a dual sump so just wondering.

I've changed oil on Jet Engines and it's just bunch of chip-detector plugs and a filter. Can't be that much more complicated...I hope.
As you can see from the pics, each sump has its own drain, and both can empty into the same drain pan. Very straightforward.
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      01-05-2009, 05:21 PM   #31
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      01-06-2009, 10:33 PM   #32
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...It's only about 0.1 liter, but I couldn't stand to leave it in.
What about the liter or two in the oil cooler plumbing?
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      01-06-2009, 10:35 PM   #33
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What about the liter or two in the oil cooler plumbing?
Not sure, but shouldn't that drain by gravity? If not, not too much to do about it. BTW, after putting in 8.9 liters the display was still telling me to add "1 qt.", even after driving it a couple times. Today, on the third drive, it finally updated to show that the level was proper. What a poor system! Glad we know enough not to blindly follow the electronic nanny, though it sounds like some dealers have done that!
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      01-08-2009, 01:29 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
Not sure, but shouldn't that drain by gravity? If not, not too much to do about it.
My E39 M5 had a oil-water heat-exchanger to cool the oil (and warm it when it was cold) and based on switching oils and doing UOA's I concluded that there was 1 liter of oil in the cooler circuit that just didn't drain on a 6.5 liter oil change.

It took unique components of an "old" oil about two changes to "decay" to around zero after changing to a "new" oil. They dropped to about 15% of the original PPM measure on the first change, 2% on the second, then after that they were undetectable.

It didn't seem to matter as far as performance was concerned. On that basis the 100cc in the filter body is just noise when you're changing from used TWS to new TWS.

And, if I didn't say it already, THANKS! for posting the DIY pix - I will do mine next April at about 8,000 miles/1 year on the car.
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      01-08-2009, 11:16 AM   #35
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About 7 years ago I was talking to a guy at a peugeot dealer (overseas obviously) and he said that they add a slight pressure (I am assuming air) to the engine to help force all old oil out of the system when they did an oil change.

Has anyone ever tried to pressurize the engine when changing the oil?
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      01-08-2009, 12:04 PM   #36
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Oil draining enhancement

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About 7 years ago I was talking to a guy at a peugeot dealer (overseas obviously) and he said that they add a slight pressure (I am assuming air) to the engine to help force all old oil out of the system when they did an oil change.

Has anyone ever tried to pressurize the engine when changing the oil?
Good idea. I imagine you could run a compressor hose into the oil filler opening with a rag stuffed around it, while also having the filter cap in place and two drain plugs out.
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      01-08-2009, 03:08 PM   #37
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good job Greg ... i thought there were two drain plugs ... and you are right ... it does drive better after the oil change !
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      01-23-2009, 06:15 PM   #38
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Nice post Greg - thanks for sharing and while I have a ways to go yet, I will be changing the oil somewhere in the 6K - 7K mile range. Sure wold be sweet to have a lift in my garage for this
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      02-26-2009, 10:11 AM   #39
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I changed my oil a few days ago at ~5800 miles. Here is what I learned:

1. I woud have gladly paid a few hundred dollars more for the car for a dipstick.

2. If the S65 had an ununsed plug in the engine that was somehow magically in exactly the right spot, I would happily invest the time and effort to retrofit a dipstick.

3. I find it hard to believe that BMW race engines do not still have dipsticks. You would think BMW would go for some ///Marketing points with "M cars are old school and still have dipsticks".

4. I do not have a mityvac and I did not remove as much oil as Greg did. I drained the oil and used about 8.2 liters of new oil, and the oil level indicator read slightly above the min mark after a round trip drive. I added another .2 - .25 liters of oil. After ~10 minutes of my drive in to work this morning, the level indicator had not moved at all. So maybe the indicator cannot see .25 liters of change, right? Just before I got to my gym, I went down a long, steep hill. In the midst of the hill the level indicator jumped up to about 2/3 of the way up to the max mark. From the gym to my office, the level indicator is still reading at the 2/3 mark.

I would prefer to fill my oil to the nominal/mid mark. My dealer went to the max mark at the 1200 service. Maybe this is as close as I am going to get. Seems like an inaccurate system, based on how my indicator behaved today. It definitely makes oil changes harder.

The mechanical part of the oil change is quite easy. I was happy with access and orientation of both drain plugs. The oil filter cap will leak oil however, so be prepared with paper towels when you start to open it.
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      03-29-2009, 08:39 AM   #40
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Just changed my oil with 8.7l and it wound up being overfilled, I'll probably start with 8l next time. As an experiment, we only opened up the front drain plug for the dry sump and about .5 l came out. Reset the oil sensor and it came up as ok. Does anyone know if the dry sump is designed to collect the overflow in an overfill situation? If so, it could make these overfills a lot easier to fix.
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      04-04-2009, 11:09 PM   #41
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Great DIY. I just did it and I felt the engine running smoother. Thanks guys!
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      04-05-2009, 11:37 AM   #42
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the best thing you guys can do for your engines esp if you run them how they are made to be run is keep good clean oil in them! but yea the oil level deal is a royal pain in the you know what...esp if your flat rate like me and actually have to make money making sure the oil level is right...
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      04-07-2009, 11:04 PM   #43
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Great post Greg! I just had it done at the dealer for about $180 (includes oil, filter, etc, ...) so this DIY is definitely great info... but it just sucks that I do not have a garage do this myself!
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      04-13-2009, 06:27 PM   #44
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What size socket is needed for the drian plug?
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