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      04-22-2008, 12:35 PM   #1
SS32
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Hardwiring Your Radar Detector ***DIY***

I've had numerous people ask me how I hardwired my V1, and I've seen even more people asking how to hardwire their detector. This DIY should work for any radar detector. If you don't have a wiring kit, you can cut the end off of your 12v adapter and there should be a red (positive) wire and a black (ground) wire. Use the red wire to piggyback the green/white wire in the DIY and the black one as your ground.

I used this DIY:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97545

***Important***
There are 2 banks of wires with a green & white wire. Make sure to tap/piggyback the green & white wire in the bank of wires closest to the driver's side. The other one doesn't work. And to ground your detector, you may have screws above the console, use one of those. If you don't, you can use a self tapping screw and screw into the roof right beside one of the small holes already there. I did it and it works fine.

I take no responsibility for you messing up your car
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      11-25-2008, 10:19 PM   #2
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I just wanted to reply to report in that I followed cowmoo's link and info and just successfully installed the V1.

I have fairly large hands and was able to come in through the headliner. My knuckles hurt, but I'll live. The only other option is to pry the side closest to the windshield off from below. I would NOT try to pry it out from the side closest to the backseat - it is designed to go in first and come out second.

For the power, I tapped the green wire with the white striped in the harness/connector closest to the driver side - again, as noted above.

There were no screws or bolts above the map lights. In fact, you will see the cross-member and then the bottom of the carbon roof. So I drilled a pilot hole in the cross-member with a titanium bit and then used a screw to anchor the ground wire.

Thanks gents!
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      11-26-2008, 01:21 AM   #3
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Thanks for the follow-up. Sounds like those with the carbon fiber roof must supply their own grounding bolt.

Personally, I ran the wires along the headliner, down the passenger side A-pillar, and to the fuse box, where I tapped into ignition power with an fuse tap (add-a-circuit). Very easy, completely invisible, absolutely no messing with the stock wiring, and can be returned entirely back to stock.
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      11-26-2008, 07:24 AM   #4
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I used the same DIY. Very easy aside from getting the front console down.
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      11-26-2008, 06:11 PM   #5
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why don't you guys try the fuse tap method on e90post.com

it's really a lot easier and there's a bolt for grounding already in there. took 15 mins.
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      11-26-2008, 07:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayos View Post
why don't you guys try the fuse tap method on e90post.com

it's really a lot easier and there's a bolt for grounding already in there. took 15 mins.
Um, look two posts above yours.
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      11-26-2008, 08:30 PM   #7
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how do you like the escort? I have a v1, but I hate the false alerts
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      11-27-2008, 12:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayos View Post
how do you like the escort? I have a v1, but I hate the false alerts
I'm planning on doing a complete write-up/review sometime, but the short version is that I love it. The GPS auto-learn feature is great. After a few weeks of driving around the city, it is extremely rare for me to get a false alert now, and I don't have to turn off the X-band or otherwise impair the detector to do it.

The 9500's range on the highway is awesome -- much better than the 8500 X50 in my wife's car. The range/sensitivity seems slightly better than the V1 in certain situations, and not quite as good in others. With both, you get more than enough warning.

The arrows on the V1 are nice to have and anyone who dismisses them as gimmicky has never used them. The ramp up is pretty good on the 9500 though, so I can use the changing signal strength to pretty easily figure out where the signal is coming from. It would just be faster and easier to have the arrows.

I keep the 9500 in "expert mode," which allows for tracking of multiple signals and is much better than the more limited information than you get from the V1.

One thing I thought I would use more than I did is the GPS redlight/photo radar alerts. I kept that feature on for about a week. Once I learned where most of the redlight cameras were in the city, it just got annoying to be warned all the time. So I guess it did it's job, and I'd probably turn it back on to go into a new city.

Overall, I'm very happy with it, and I wouldn't want to go back to the V1, even though the V1 has the arrows and slightly better sensitivity in certain situations.
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      11-27-2008, 12:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayos View Post
how do you like the escort? I have a v1, but I hate the false alerts
The Escort and the Beltronics GX 65 are the same detector minus the autolearn feature and Expert mode. Here was my review of the GX 65
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182158
I'm back to my V1 and couldn't be happier.
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      12-05-2008, 05:01 PM   #10
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Just some feedback on that DIY. I don't like it. If I'm reading it right it looks like that piggy back connection doesn't truly connect the wires together. The only thing holding it together is a bit of pressure from the wires being side by side in the connector.

The other thing that bothers me, and no offense to the guy who wrote it, is that he is not sizing his connectors properly. Yellow connectors are typically for 12-10 gauge. I would have went with blue or red. Being a 12v guy, I buy every connector in those 3 colors and only use the appropriately sized connector. Otherwise your connections are loose. Loose connections are bad.

What would have been better is if you would use a 3M Scotchlok T-Tap or maybe even better still a squeeze connector like in the picture below.


Scotchlok


I'm not sure what that green/white wire is supposed to power so I can't comment on how safe it is to use that wire. But it would be good to find out so that you don't exceed the current that is supplied by that wire. Ideally, you would have a dedicated 12v connection for the hardwiring. That's not always convenient so you can compromise a lot of times by tapping into other wires. Before you do that, it's usually a good idea to know what that wire is used for.

So the safer method right now is to go with the fuse tap on a heftier source like the ignition.

Ok, off the soapbox for now...
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      12-05-2008, 07:48 PM   #11
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The V1 tap has a clamp on it - FYI. It will not open. I'd love to see a wiring diagram and service manual, but I've never seen a link or a place to download/buy them.

I'm sure the wire people are taping goes back to a fuse, and there is also a fuse included in the V1 tap.
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      12-10-2008, 04:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLud View Post
Thanks for the follow-up. Sounds like those with the carbon fiber roof must supply their own grounding bolt.

Personally, I ran the wires along the headliner, down the passenger side A-pillar, and to the fuse box, where I tapped into ignition power with an fuse tap (add-a-circuit). Very easy, completely invisible, absolutely no messing with the stock wiring, and can be returned entirely back to stock.
TLud - I have to visit w/ you as I'm not handy at all! But am tired of I-35 patrols following alongside and espying my V1 knowingly ...
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      12-10-2008, 06:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singletrack View Post
The V1 tap has a clamp on it - FYI. It will not open. I'd love to see a wiring diagram and service manual, but I've never seen a link or a place to download/buy them.

I'm sure the wire people are taping goes back to a fuse, and there is also a fuse included in the V1 tap.
I have a significant amount of experience with automotive electrical and my first preference for powering an accessory is to run it directly off the battery or the fuse box. If that's not an option, I'll solder and seal (not clamp) a connection off an existing acc or batt wire as long as I know what it's powering.

The T tap method to the green wire in the overhead console will be fine for most people. It appears that whatever is being powered by that wire can handle the minimal draw of the radar detector. Also, there's almost no possibility for the connection to be compromised by water or vibrations. If you ever take it out, just make sure to cover up the spot where you clamped in with a couple of winds of electrical tape.

That said, I'm used to doing wiring in places like the engine bay where it is exposed to the elements and vibrations, and I employ the same anal precautions no matter where or what I'm wiring. I soldered and sealed the radar detector power wire to the fuse tap and connected it to the fuse box with a 5A fuse. The wires runs across the headliner, down the passenger side A-pillar, to the fuse box, and are secured the entire way with zip ties. Completely secure and completely reversible without a trace.
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      01-03-2009, 05:05 PM   #14
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If you are using the piggyback fuse in the glove box, where are you routing the wire up to the headliner? I'm guessing on the windshield-side of the A-pillar, but where do you take the wire out of the fuse block?

E.g. on the left side (between a pillar and windshield) in this photo:


Do you take it out along the bottom of the glove box in this image and then jam it between the fuzzy part of the weatherstripping and the console in this image? or do you somehow route it up out of the glovebox to the top of the console and avoid this part of the car entirely?

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      01-03-2009, 06:41 PM   #15
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For reference I found this post
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111583
which has some nice photos of removing the a pillar cover and routing the wire.
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      01-03-2009, 11:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladius View Post
If you are using the piggyback fuse in the glove box, where are you routing the wire up to the headliner? I'm guessing on the windshield-side of the A-pillar, but where do you take the wire out of the fuse block?

E.g. on the left side (between a pillar and windshield) in this photo:

Do you take it out along the bottom of the glove box in this image and then jam it between the fuzzy part of the weatherstripping and the console in this image? or do you somehow route it up out of the glovebox to the top of the console and avoid this part of the car entirely?
I've done the vampire-clip attachment on my other cars, but my dealer made it clear that if anything went wrong the the electronics, that the warranty would not cover any repairs. I asked them to install it, but they wanted $375, and said that it would still invalidate any warranty claims on electronics. So i used the add-a-fuse technique that everyone has described (got it at Advance Auto Parts).

I just wanted to contribute this little hint: Go find a trim tool set on the internet. I bought one for my NSX and Gallardo so I could remove interior garnishes and such. The first photo shows the tools.

You can use the tools to gently pry up the headliner, a-pillar, weatherstrip, and the power cable (aka telephone cable) slips right in. You don't need to unscrew or remove or alter anything.

Behind the glove compartment, there is a small gap on the left side bottom just in front of the fuse box. Just push the cable up from the bottom, and feel for it with your other hand.

The rest of the install (i.e. finding a ground, which fuse to use, crimping vs. soldering) has been described by other members, so I'll skip that part here.

Hope that helps!

Regards,
Rick


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      01-04-2009, 11:09 AM   #17
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Fantastic, thanks RL.
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      02-28-2009, 10:56 AM   #18
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For anyone with a carbon roof the sun visor screw is a great ground, and no drilling or self tapping screws. All you have to do is take your crimpers and flatten out the round insulation portion of your eyelet or what ever connector you're using. Super easy, and it is a solid ground. Sorry, no pics though. Didn't want to get up and get the camera.
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      04-05-2009, 09:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RL in Florida View Post
I've done the vampire-clip attachment on my other cars, but my dealer made it clear that if anything went wrong the the electronics, that the warranty would not cover any repairs. I asked them to install it, but they wanted $375, and said that it would still invalidate any warranty claims on electronics. So i used the add-a-fuse technique that everyone has described (got it at Advance Auto Parts).

I just wanted to contribute this little hint: Go find a trim tool set on the internet. I bought one for my NSX and Gallardo so I could remove interior garnishes and such. The first photo shows the tools.

You can use the tools to gently pry up the headliner, a-pillar, weatherstrip, and the power cable (aka telephone cable) slips right in. You don't need to unscrew or remove or alter anything.

Behind the glove compartment, there is a small gap on the left side bottom just in front of the fuse box. Just push the cable up from the bottom, and feel for it with your other hand.

The rest of the install (i.e. finding a ground, which fuse to use, crimping vs. soldering) has been described by other members, so I'll skip that part here.

Hope that helps!

Regards,
Rick


Rick
I would mention not to fully remove the "A" arm cover, just remove the airbag plastic clip and loosen screw which will give you some room. I made the mistake thinking it was just like the 335i cover. There are 2 alignment clips near the windshield that are a bitch to line back up. Then one of of the "A" arm cover clip fell off and fell into that little crevice. This caused alot of delays.
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      04-06-2009, 02:29 AM   #20
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anyone know how to get intot he overhead maplight in an e93? Same as an e92?
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      04-07-2009, 07:49 PM   #21
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hey all!

So im getting ready to hardwire my V1 to my 08 e92 m3. Just a couple questions before i do this.

1. Which port should I use in the fuse box (for an 08 m3)? I will be getting a Fuse Tap.
2. What/where (is) bolt or screw do i use to ground?

sorry if these questions were answered already
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      04-08-2009, 09:31 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandguy19 View Post
hey all!

So im getting ready to hardwire my V1 to my 08 e92 m3. Just a couple questions before i do this.

1. Which port should I use in the fuse box (for an 08 m3)? I will be getting a Fuse Tap.
2. What/where (is) bolt or screw do i use to ground?

sorry if these questions were answered already
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS32 View Post

There are 2 banks of wires with a green & white wire. Make sure to tap/piggyback the green & white wire in the bank of wires closest to the driver's side. The other one doesn't work. And to ground your detector, you may have screws above the console, use one of those. If you don't, you can use a self tapping screw and screw into the roof right beside one of the small holes already there. I did it and it works fine.
OR

Quote:
Originally Posted by MP0WER View Post
For anyone with a carbon roof the sun visor screw is a great ground, and no drilling or self tapping screws. All you have to do is take your crimpers and flatten out the round insulation portion of your eyelet or what ever connector you're using. Super easy, and it is a solid ground. Sorry, no pics though. Didn't want to get up and get the camera.
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