DIY Carplay/Android Auto Carsara Install and Setup Tips

[timothy2001]

Exactly what I have been looking for.....thanks for doing this. Looks like something even I can do myself with the exception of the coding. Nice work.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by timothy2001

Exactly what I have been looking for.....thanks for doing this. Looks like something even I can do myself with the exception of the coding. Nice work.

Coding via BimmerCode or one of the smart phone apps is pretty fool proof, just a bit more expensive. It's very much just tapping a few settings and that's it. They list the supported OBD connectors on their site. If you live in a metro area there's usually guys who can do this for like $60 too.

I used the desktop tools because I'm cheap and wanted an excuse to learn.

[cyman83]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

[SIZE="1"]Last Update: Jan 5, 2021[/SIZE]

There have been a lot of posts and discoveries on how to install Carplay/Android Auto boxes in the E9x. There are a lot of existing great resources, but I thought I would try to consolidate as much as possible in one up to date post so that it isn’t expected to search through 80+ pages of content and so new people who are interested can find that info more easily. (I’m looking at you Facebook Groups).

This thread will focus on the Carsara (Available as of Jan 2021) CIC Carplay box specifically. There are a number of Carplay boxes available under various resellers (Joyeauto, Andream, Kremersino, etc) – based on pictures of the device internals, most of these boxes are the same or similar, using the GPLink processor to do most of the work. The Carsara is one of the latest revisions of these boxes (my unit was dated 8/2020) and seems to have the most reliable combination of software and features.

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What is it?
If you made it this far, these boxes allow for in-car specific UI from your smartphone (Carplay/Android Auto) as well as screen mirroring (Airplay/Screen mirroring) which displays what is on your phone screen, but does not allow you to interact with it from your phone:

• Apple Carplay - https://www.apple.com/ios/carplay/
• Android Audio - https://www.android.com/auto/

This allows you to run specific CP/AA apps like Google Maps, Waze, Pandora, Spotify, SiriusXM, messaging, and more, while providing direct access to your phones assistant through the steering wheel and iDrive controllers.

It’s important to know that these boxes do not eliminate your existing iDrive – your existing radio, CD player, navigation, onboard diagnostics etc will all remain in place. This is different from some Android headunits which replace the iDrive completely.

My installation including the Induktiv Wireless Charger.
Attachment 2498463

Compatibility

The only pre-requisite for these units is a CIC iDrive system (2009-2013 E9X) cars. These instructions may also be relevant on other E chassis cars, but will focus on the E9x info here.

If you have a CCC (2008 Idrive with the silver knob) – this solution is not recommended. The display is too low resolution to effectively display the UI and an all in one solution which replaces the screen would likely be a better choice. https://www.android-car-dvd.com/coll...33378244952200

A combox, Bluetooth, and other specific features do not change the compatibility of the box. If you did not have Bluetooth, you will be able to use Bluetooth through the Carplay box using the included microphone.

Where do I buy it?

The latest Aliexpress link for the Carsara unit for CIC is here ($206 as of writing):


Shipping to the US from my experience took approximately 10 business days. Your results may vary.

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Want to add a backup camera?

There are many camera options that will work with this system. I used this camera, Option D:

It was a high-res sensor and wide angle view, but does NOT have a thin connector making routing a bit more difficult (see installation instructions for more details). Shipping was longer however at close to 4 weeks.
I also tested this camera which is more expensive ($65 via Amazon), but has the slim line connector making it easier to route and shipped via Amazon Prime.


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Installation Tips and Videos

There are lots of videos for installation available, but Bimmer-tech is most similar to this unit and suggested to watch to understand the complexity and steps.

For tools it is recommended to have:

• Plastic trim removal tools
• A small metal pick set to remove connectors
• 10mm socket
• T-20 Torx Bit
• A thick towel for protecting your dash and console
• If installing a rear camera, electrical tape, wire cutters, a metal hangar or wire fish
• An OBD cable or dongle for coding your headunit. Bimmercode, or NCS Expert. Coding advice can be found in existing threads here and on E90post.

Tips

***Before beginning, it’s important to note a key feature of the Carsara box is allowing audio input directly through the Quadlock connector. This requires coding for most vehicles. BEFORE installing the Carsara box it is recommended you change the following parameters in the CIC module: Thanks cannyjock for this discovery.

CDMM_AUX_HU
aktiv

CDMM_USB_AUDIO_SINGLE
nicht_aktiv

CDMM_USB_AUDIO_DOUBLE_0B
nicht_aktiv

Note: Coding these changes will disable the USB data port and aux input inside of the console. It is a concession for having a higher quality audio source. If you do not want to code, you can skip this step and run the 3.5mm cable as shown in the video, but be aware there is some audio degradation using this approach.

• Make sure to put a THICK towel or blanket down on your console and seats to protect them. The CIC headunit has sharp edges and can knick or dent your dash or seats.
• Do not mount the antenna on a metal surface. I recommend mounting the antenna to the plastic directly underneath the iDrive screen. There is a flat open surface and this will ensure good RF connectivity. Do not stick it directly to the Carsara box.
• The iDrive extension cable does not work for everyone. I recommend removing it entirely, the Carsara box should pick up the iDrive signals directly from the Quadlock (labelled L#->B#). The white jumper terminator loop (D#) should be removed entirely. Note: You will not able to code the CIC headunit after this change is made. If you wish to try the iDrive connector, connect it to your iDrive controller, then connect it to either A# or B# and see if your iDrive menus respond. Multiple people have responded that they may have faulty harnesses, but it is not clear and is not needed.
• The quad lock connector is very bulky. You should be able to gently pass it through into the a void near the glove box on the back right corner behind the CIC head unit. It is important to neatly dress the cables with Zip ties to get them all to sit snugly and not be crushed or cut when reinstalling the head unit. Take your time to clean this up when you’ve confirmed everything works OK.
• The connection to the microphone is important. The AIRBAG flap which covers the A pillar screw was very difficult for me to remove, try using a pick or guitar pick to pry this out It will take some force since it is thin metal. Make sure to route the wire neatly behind the airbag.
• If you do not have factory Bluetooth, you will use the included microphone, otherwise you will piggyback on the OEM microphone. I recommend removing both center sun visor clips to get enough room to remove the overhead light/microphone compartment. You will need to press both metal clips in blindly to easily get this down. The sun visor itself does not need to be removed.
• I recommend routing the USB cable either into the glove box, or into the hole where the 12v outlet goes on some cars if you want it out of the way.
  Attachment 2498460

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Backup Reverse Camera installation

There are several guides for this, this video does a decent overview for routing the cable itself, however when it comes to installing the MMI box I recommend following the Bimmertech steps. You do not need to remove the screen, or cupholders to route the cable. I found it most easy to route the camera wire underneath the glove box just by removing the floor kick panel and that was it.

For squeezing the RCA or 4 pin connector through the rubber shroud that connects the trunk lid to the inside of the trunk, I recommend putting lots of vaseline on the cable, using a good wire fish or hangar, and rather than trying to pull the cable THROUGH the rubber shroud, apply upwards pressure and slowly roll the ribs of the shroud over the thickest part of the cable. This will let you slowly pull it through smoothly. I rolled it on like this and it went very quickly. (Remove the shroud from both ends in order to do this, don't try to push it through with the rubber still installed).

Wiring the camera should follow the Carsara instructions.

For DCT: There should be a red wire bundled with your long wire extension (either the RCA cable or 4 pin mini cable). This connects to the yellow Carsara wire and provides 12V switched power to the camera. The black cable should attach to ground. For my E90 I ran an extension wire down to the chassis bolt inside the battery box. Many older threads recommend pulling power from the tail light, but this will cause issues as that power source is ~11.6v not 12V and will cause flicker issues.

NOTE There is a default setting that needs to be changed for the camera work. Reverse Line Detect->Off for DCT cars. Camera should be set to Aftermarket.

For 6MT: Additional details Post 6
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I will work on keeping this thread as up to date as possible, and add FAQ’s as they come up.

Can anyone post a picture of where they hooked up the ground for the backup camera

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by cyman83

Can anyone post a picture of where they hooked up the ground for the backup camera

I don't have a picture but open the battery compartment. The battery tie down has an unpainted bolt that goes straight to the chassis, I just looped the ground right to that.

[Ervin87]

Thanks for posting this. Very Informative.

So for CCC cars, the best option is to replace the entire unit? Something like Avin?

[bighindu79]

Originally Posted by Ervin87

Thanks for posting this. Very Informative.

So for CCC cars, the best option is to replace the entire unit? Something like Avin?

There's a version of the carsara CarPlay box for CCC as well

US $217.71 41％ Off | For BMW CCC wireless carplay box E60 E61 E63 E64 E65 E70 E71 E90 E91 E92 E93 E81 E82 E85 E87 E88 Android auto kit airplay link
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqHpiZP

You just need to select the CCC option in the color selection when ordering.

[E60525d]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

I have this intermittently, but it seems to be only while music is playing. If you search the web this seems to be a frequently raised issue with how Google is handling their audio stream, but no one seems to have a recommendation that is a guaranteed fix and it appears to happen both on Carplay and Android auto.

It seems like there were a variety of suggestions including it only happening when the volume on the phone is set too high, reinstalling/re-pairing the phone, or just using a different app.

People report this happening on factory and aftermarket head units with both AA and Carplay, so unfortunately it seems to be a Google specific issue. If it happens constantly, perhaps try tweaking the volume to see if anything makes it better or worse. Does yours happen constantly, or only while audio is playing?

Thanks for the reply.

I have not checked it when music is playing but will do tomorrow. Also it happens to two Android phones I have tried so dont think the fault is with the phone.

Changing the volume doesnt really help as it lowers the voice volume but it also lowers the music volume too. I will try yo re-install Android App as well.

The problem is not a Google maps problem as when I click on Weather, the voice then is also distorted. So the issue is with Android Auto.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by E60525d

Thanks for the reply.

I have not checked it when music is playing but will do tomorrow. Also it happens to two Android phones I have tried so dont think the fault is with the phone.

Changing the volume doesnt really help as it lowers the voice volume but it also lowers the music volume too. I will try yo re-install Android App as well.

The problem is not a Google maps problem as when I click on Weather, the voice then is also distorted. So the issue is with Android Auto.

I've primarily been using CarPlay since my android device is my work phone but next time I have some time I'll look at it.

My initial thought is it's a Bluetooth stack thing. Different phones use older or newer BT protocols and some protocols might not be playing nice together. What devices/Android OS are you using? I do a lot of work with Android development for work I might be able to test with a similar OS and see if I can replicate or fix it. But just searching the net it seems a lot of people have mentioned it. I only had it intermittently but that was on CarPlay not android auto.

[romero1990]

If I am going with coding route, do I still need route the mic cable? (I have CIC with BT)

Also if I keep the cables in, will I be able to code the CIC? I think I would just install it first then find a coder to set the codes. I don't mind opening it up twice.

"The iDrive extension cable does not work for everyone. I recommend removing it entirely, the Carsara box should pick up the iDrive signals directly from the Quadlock (labelled L#->B#). The white jumper terminator loop (D#) should be removed entirely. Note: You will not able to code the CIC headunit after this change is made. If you wish to try the iDrive connector, connect it to your iDrive controller, then connect it to either A# or B# and see if your iDrive menus respond. Multiple people have responded that they may have faulty harnesses, but it is not clear and is not needed.
"

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Last Update: Jan 5, 2021

***Before beginning, it’s important to note a key feature of the Carsara box is allowing audio input directly through the Quadlock connector. This requires coding for most vehicles. BEFORE installing the Carsara box it is recommended you change the following parameters in the CIC module: Thanks cannyjock for this discovery.

CDMM_AUX_HU
aktiv

CDMM_USB_AUDIO_SINGLE
nicht_aktiv

CDMM_USB_AUDIO_DOUBLE_0B
nicht_aktiv

Note: Coding these changes will disable the USB data port and aux input inside of the console. It is a concession for having a higher quality audio source. If you do not want to code, you can skip this step and run the 3.5mm cable as shown in the video, but be aware there is some audio degradation using this approach.

I have a question regarding these modifications. I understand what the first modification is doing, but why are the other two necessary? It sounds like its disabling the usb ports in the center console and the glovebox. Why is that necessary to run AUX Audio through the quadlock connector directly?

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by romero1990

If I am going with coding route, do I still need route the mic cable? (I have CIC with BT)

Also if I keep the cables in, will I be able to code the CIC? I think I would just install it first then find a coder to set the codes. I don't mind opening it up twice.

"The iDrive extension cable does not work for everyone. I recommend removing it entirely, the Carsara box should pick up the iDrive signals directly from the Quadlock (labelled L#->B#). The white jumper terminator loop (D#) should be removed entirely. Note: You will not able to code the CIC headunit after this change is made. If you wish to try the iDrive connector, connect it to your iDrive controller, then connect it to either A# or B# and see if your iDrive menus respond. Multiple people have responded that they may have faulty harnesses, but it is not clear and is not needed.
"

Yes you need to run the microphone cable. Audio input isn't provided over the quad lock, or at least not in a way anyone has discovered.

The reason to code first is to avoid the entire headache with the IDrive cable permutations. It's easy to DIY using an app using BimmerCode ahead of time.

As for why are those three options needed? Those variables will vary based on your configuration. On my non-combox 2011 I only had to flip two.

You could try not disabling the usb but there's no guarantee that works. This was just based on collecting knowledge from the forums, I never use the USB port so I had no interest in worrying about it.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by drwankel

I have a question regarding these modifications. I understand what the first modification is doing, but why are the other two necessary? It sounds like its disabling the usb ports in the center console and the glovebox. Why is that necessary to run AUX Audio through the quadlock connector directly?

See my post above re the coding options. This could be tested if you wanted.

[drwankel]

The reason why I am asking- is I have doubts that anybody is going to come out with a carplay setup that sends digital audio over to the head unit. Sending analog audio through the quadlock connector is definitely better than just the aux input, but still not ideal.

My idea is to use a USB drive to store audio that I really care about to maximize sound quality, and then just deal with quadlock aux audio for when I really want to use carplay.

I'd then use the OEM wireless charging snapin adapter, and use carplay wirelessly. Use radio, cd, and usb audio as I do now, use carplay when needed.

Disabling the USB ports doesn't seem ideal, and I dont understand why it would be necessary based on how the unit connects.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by drwankel

The reason why I am asking- is I have doubts that anybody is going to come out with a carplay setup that sends digital audio over to the head unit. Sending analog audio through the quadlock connector is definitely better than just the aux input, but still not ideal.

My idea is to use a USB drive to store audio that I really care about to maximize sound quality, and then just deal with quadlock aux audio for when I really want to use carplay.

I'd then use the OEM wireless charging snapin adapter, and use carplay wirelessly. Use radio, cd, and usb audio as I do now, use carplay when needed.

Disabling the USB ports doesn't seem ideal, and I dont understand why it would be necessary based on how the unit connects.

The best of my understanding is it has to do with the fact that the aux and USB are routed to the MULF or Combox to be sent over the MOST loop. Changing the USB parameter I believe is required as part of that modification to get the CIC to recognize the right permutation.

I won't claim to be a coding expert on this one, if you wanted to try it before installing the unit and just code that parameter you could try it, but based on the testing others have done I would expect you would have to pick and choose if USB audio is the main need. If it is, you'd probably just be left with using aux via 3.5mm for navigation and other audio. Remember though that the audio sources won't mix so you wouldn't get CarPlay and usb audio at the same time.

[magungo]

Has anyone experienced any responsiveness issues on cold starts? I sometimes will go to my car and the iDrive won't respond to anything on the controller. After a few minutes, things start working though and I can switch to Carplay.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by magungo

Has anyone experienced any responsiveness issues on cold starts? I sometimes will go to my car and the iDrive won't respond to anything on the controller. After a few minutes, things start working though and I can switch to Carplay.

Are you using the iDrive harness?

I have never had an issue with the iDrive itself responding. The Carplay box usually takes about 15-30 seconds to boot? It depends on the power state of the car. I believe the box will start to power up as soon as the car is unlocked. But if you are like me and leave the car unlocked then it seems like it takes more time to start up because as soon as I open the door I hit the start button a few seconds later.

[GTiceman]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Are you using the iDrive harness?

I have never had an issue with the iDrive itself responding. The Carplay box usually takes about 15-30 seconds to boot? It depends on the power state of the car. I believe the box will start to power up as soon as the car is unlocked. But if you are like me and leave the car unlocked then it seems like it takes more time to start up because as soon as I open the door I hit the start button a few seconds later.

The box definitely powers up when the car wakes. Within seconds of me unlocking the car my phone launches AA. Now the iDrive doesn't auto boot into AA unfortunately and I can't figure out why.

[e92335drew]

Does anyone have a manual or information pertaining to the dip switch settings? My box came with absolutely no instructions.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by GTiceman

The box definitely powers up when the car wakes. Within seconds of me unlocking the car my phone launches AA. Now the iDrive doesn't auto boot into AA unfortunately and I can't figure out why.

My box always launches but there's definitely some lag while it boots up. If I get right in and switch to the box you can see the splash screen while it's loading up.

I haven't used mine with AA enough, but for Carplay my general observation is if I was using the box last, it'll launch to the box once it finishes booting (whether or not Carplay has connected sometimes varys). One problem I have too is both my wifes X5 and my car are in the garage at the same time - I think that is contributing to my phone not knowing which car to pair with. The X5 wakes up on approach with the new comfort access and I think that confuses my phone too.

Whenever I'm out and driving the car, I usually have no issues with it going back to Carplay when I get back in. But jumping connections seems to take a little while or require a manual pick from the Bluetooth list on the iPhone from time to time.

[GTiceman]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

My box always launches but there's definitely some lag while it boots up. If I get right in and switch to the box you can see the splash screen while it's loading up.

I haven't used mine with AA enough, but for Carplay my general observation is if I was using the box last, it'll launch to the box once it finishes booting (whether or not Carplay has connected sometimes varys). One problem I have too is both my wifes X5 and my car are in the garage at the same time - I think that is contributing to my phone not knowing which car to pair with. The X5 wakes up on approach with the new comfort access and I think that confuses my phone too.

Whenever I'm out and driving the car, I usually have no issues with it going back to Carplay when I get back in. But jumping connections seems to take a little while or require a manual pick from the Bluetooth list on the iPhone from time to time.

Mine did the auto launch for a bit but no longer does. When I asked the company they told me to unpair everything on both ends and try again. Not sure why that would matter but haven't tried it yet. My iDrive also always defaults back to the radio from the aux so maybe I'm just hopping in the car too fast.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by GTiceman

Mine did the auto launch for a bit but no longer does. When I asked the company they told me to unpair everything on both ends and try again. Not sure why that would matter but haven't tried it yet. My iDrive also always defaults back to the radio from the aux so maybe I'm just hopping in the car too fast.

If you hold Menu to get into the Carsara UI when you first get in, see if it shows the device paired.

I've noticed at various times depending on how I am using my phone, it can take longer for my phone to decide to pair. I think part of that is just the standard bluetooth handshake, there is some latency in that transaction.

I was having some weird issues but re-pairing fixed it for me. If I ever get in and see it's not paired it won't show the Carplay (or AA icon) on the left isde of the carsara menu.

RE the default audio source: I think Cannyjock mentioned he had that issue as well. There are a few complaints on that (outside of carplay, just in general) on E90post. People seem to be mentioning everything from a problem with the keyfob to possible short in the trunk? Everyone seems to chalk it up to gremlins though I didn't see anyone finding a definitive answer for that.

It's possible the iDrive expects some type of voltage on the Aux channels to turn it on or it'll default back to radio?

[GTiceman]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

If you hold Menu to get into the Carsara UI when you first get in, see if it shows the device paired.

RE the default audio source: I think Cannyjock mentioned he had that issue as well. There are a few complaints on that (outside of carplay, just in general) on E90post. People seem to be mentioning everything from a problem with the keyfob to possible short in the trunk? Everyone seems to chalk it up to gremlins though I didn't see anyone finding a definitive answer for that.

It's possible the iDrive expects some type of voltage on the Aux channels to turn it on or it'll default back to radio?

Definitely is paired, though I had a few times where it took a moment as my phone needed to switch Wi-Fi networks, but AA launches quickly because I notice it when I unlock the car even if I am not driving somewhere. I believe that AA uses the Wi-Fi. I also deleted my phone from the iDrive BT.

Maybe when I get home this weekend I will start the car up and see if it ever switches over.

I remember those gremlins others have mentioned. I think when I get time I will buy Bimmercode, just give up on NCSExpert, code the aux in the armrest off to see if that makes a difference. I also need to get rid of the legal screen too.