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01-09-2021, 05:11 AM | #23 |
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Exactly what I have been looking for.....thanks for doing this. Looks like something even I can do myself with the exception of the coding. Nice work.
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01-09-2021, 07:43 AM | #24 | |
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I used the desktop tools because I'm cheap and wanted an excuse to learn.
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01-09-2021, 02:34 PM | #25 | |
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01-09-2021, 03:07 PM | #26 | ||
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01-09-2021, 03:47 PM | #28 | |
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US $217.71 41% Off | For BMW CCC wireless carplay box E60 E61 E63 E64 E65 E70 E71 E90 E91 E92 E93 E81 E82 E85 E87 E88 Android auto kit airplay link https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqHpiZP You just need to select the CCC option in the color selection when ordering.
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01-09-2021, 05:03 PM | #29 | |
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I have not checked it when music is playing but will do tomorrow. Also it happens to two Android phones I have tried so dont think the fault is with the phone. Changing the volume doesnt really help as it lowers the voice volume but it also lowers the music volume too. I will try yo re-install Android App as well. The problem is not a Google maps problem as when I click on Weather, the voice then is also distorted. So the issue is with Android Auto. |
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01-09-2021, 07:27 PM | #30 | ||
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My initial thought is it's a Bluetooth stack thing. Different phones use older or newer BT protocols and some protocols might not be playing nice together. What devices/Android OS are you using? I do a lot of work with Android development for work I might be able to test with a similar OS and see if I can replicate or fix it. But just searching the net it seems a lot of people have mentioned it. I only had it intermittently but that was on CarPlay not android auto.
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01-09-2021, 11:54 PM | #31 |
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If I am going with coding route, do I still need route the mic cable? (I have CIC with BT)
Also if I keep the cables in, will I be able to code the CIC? I think I would just install it first then find a coder to set the codes. I don't mind opening it up twice. "The iDrive extension cable does not work for everyone. I recommend removing it entirely, the Carsara box should pick up the iDrive signals directly from the Quadlock (labelled L#->B#). The white jumper terminator loop (D#) should be removed entirely. Note: You will not able to code the CIC headunit after this change is made. If you wish to try the iDrive connector, connect it to your iDrive controller, then connect it to either A# or B# and see if your iDrive menus respond. Multiple people have responded that they may have faulty harnesses, but it is not clear and is not needed. " Last edited by romero1990; 01-10-2021 at 12:05 AM.. |
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01-10-2021, 12:16 AM | #32 | |
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01-10-2021, 09:11 AM | #33 | |
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The reason to code first is to avoid the entire headache with the IDrive cable permutations. It's easy to DIY using an app using BimmerCode ahead of time. As for why are those three options needed? Those variables will vary based on your configuration. On my non-combox 2011 I only had to flip two. You could try not disabling the usb but there's no guarantee that works. This was just based on collecting knowledge from the forums, I never use the USB port so I had no interest in worrying about it.
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01-10-2021, 09:12 AM | #34 | ||
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01-10-2021, 11:36 AM | #35 |
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The reason why I am asking- is I have doubts that anybody is going to come out with a carplay setup that sends digital audio over to the head unit. Sending analog audio through the quadlock connector is definitely better than just the aux input, but still not ideal.
My idea is to use a USB drive to store audio that I really care about to maximize sound quality, and then just deal with quadlock aux audio for when I really want to use carplay. I'd then use the OEM wireless charging snapin adapter, and use carplay wirelessly. Use radio, cd, and usb audio as I do now, use carplay when needed. Disabling the USB ports doesn't seem ideal, and I dont understand why it would be necessary based on how the unit connects. |
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01-10-2021, 12:01 PM | #36 | |
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I won't claim to be a coding expert on this one, if you wanted to try it before installing the unit and just code that parameter you could try it, but based on the testing others have done I would expect you would have to pick and choose if USB audio is the main need. If it is, you'd probably just be left with using aux via 3.5mm for navigation and other audio. Remember though that the audio sources won't mix so you wouldn't get CarPlay and usb audio at the same time.
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01-10-2021, 05:47 PM | #37 |
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Has anyone experienced any responsiveness issues on cold starts? I sometimes will go to my car and the iDrive won't respond to anything on the controller. After a few minutes, things start working though and I can switch to Carplay.
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01-11-2021, 08:27 AM | #38 | |
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I have never had an issue with the iDrive itself responding. The Carplay box usually takes about 15-30 seconds to boot? It depends on the power state of the car. I believe the box will start to power up as soon as the car is unlocked. But if you are like me and leave the car unlocked then it seems like it takes more time to start up because as soon as I open the door I hit the start button a few seconds later.
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01-11-2021, 11:52 AM | #39 | |
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01-11-2021, 12:38 PM | #41 | |
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I haven't used mine with AA enough, but for Carplay my general observation is if I was using the box last, it'll launch to the box once it finishes booting (whether or not Carplay has connected sometimes varys). One problem I have too is both my wifes X5 and my car are in the garage at the same time - I think that is contributing to my phone not knowing which car to pair with. The X5 wakes up on approach with the new comfort access and I think that confuses my phone too. Whenever I'm out and driving the car, I usually have no issues with it going back to Carplay when I get back in. But jumping connections seems to take a little while or require a manual pick from the Bluetooth list on the iPhone from time to time.
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01-11-2021, 06:12 PM | #42 | |
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01-11-2021, 09:17 PM | #43 | |
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I've noticed at various times depending on how I am using my phone, it can take longer for my phone to decide to pair. I think part of that is just the standard bluetooth handshake, there is some latency in that transaction. I was having some weird issues but re-pairing fixed it for me. If I ever get in and see it's not paired it won't show the Carplay (or AA icon) on the left isde of the carsara menu. RE the default audio source: I think Cannyjock mentioned he had that issue as well. There are a few complaints on that (outside of carplay, just in general) on E90post. People seem to be mentioning everything from a problem with the keyfob to possible short in the trunk? Everyone seems to chalk it up to gremlins though I didn't see anyone finding a definitive answer for that. It's possible the iDrive expects some type of voltage on the Aux channels to turn it on or it'll default back to radio?
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01-12-2021, 07:56 AM | #44 | |
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Maybe when I get home this weekend I will start the car up and see if it ever switches over. I remember those gremlins others have mentioned. I think when I get time I will buy Bimmercode, just give up on NCSExpert, code the aux in the armrest off to see if that makes a difference. I also need to get rid of the legal screen too.
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