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      03-28-2014, 02:03 AM   #1
Pr0fessor
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Corrosion preventative

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      03-28-2014, 02:14 AM   #2
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      03-28-2014, 08:46 AM   #3
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It doesn't look like you cleaned the hub before painting it which defeats the purpose. You also do not want paint on a spacer or wheel mounting face. There is a reason both of those parts are free of paint! You need a perfectly flat surface to ensure no vibration.
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      03-28-2014, 12:09 PM   #4
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That's actually a zinc chromate primer. A very light dusting. No excuse for corrosion so I wouldn't dream of leaving that surface bare. That corrosion was found when the center caps were removed from the wheels while still on the car. Water actually ran out of the center. At that time the centers were dried out and then fogged with the "green paint". That's why you see green and the corrosion. The other pics are after proper prepping with wheels off. Corrosion was cause primarily due to the center caps not being vented so moisture could escape due to the rapid heating and cooling of wheel/brake assy's and less to the two dissimilar metals in contact with each other.
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      03-28-2014, 01:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr0fessor View Post
That's actually a zinc chromate primer. A very light dusting. No excuse for corrosion so I wouldn't dream of leaving that surface bare. That corrosion was found when the center caps were removed from the wheels while still on the car. Water actually ran out of the center. At that time the centers were dried out and then fogged with the "green paint". That's why you see green and the corrosion. The other pics are after proper prepping with wheels off. Corrosion was cause primarily due to the center caps not being vented so moisture could escape due to the rapid heating and cooling of wheel/brake assy's and less to the two dissimilar metals in contact with each other.
It is common to see corrosion around the wheel hub considering it is an un-coated surface - and designed to be that way. Painting the center of the wheel hub won't hurt anything but painting the mating surface of the wheels and the hub-face is not necessary and will be problematic. Aluminum wheels will not fall victim to rust unless it occurs over a very long period of time, like decades. Keep in mind that most 3-piece wheels have polished lips without any coating, and the mounting surface on every aluminum wheel that I have ever seen is bare metal at the mounting surface (OEM, BBS, HRE, Volk, Advan, OZ, etc). Any spacer that I have ever seen is also either un-coated or anodized which is a chemical finish that does not add any material to the surface of the metal. The problem will occur when those surfaces get scratched from removing and re-installing the wheels. Scratches will cause a build-up of paint and then the wheel won't sit flush. Take a look at the numerous examples of people having problems with spacers.... It's usually due to the mounting surfaces having some sort of contamination. Also, it wouldn't cost wheel manufacturers, or BMW more than $1 to paint those surfaces. They omit paint there for a reason; so that the mounting surfaces are as flat as possible. Best of luck to you....

FWIW - I'm not a fan of the rust in those areas either (especially when running wheels without center caps). I cleaned up my hub centers and coated them with Boeshield T9 which is a rust inhibitor - see pics below. I did not however put anything on the wheel or hub mounting surfaces.



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Last edited by slicer; 03-28-2014 at 01:21 PM.
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      03-29-2014, 08:38 PM   #6
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Good info!
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      03-30-2014, 12:27 AM   #7
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I prepped and painted my rear center hubs two years ago. It's full of rust now.
That Boeshield looks promising. Thanks.

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      03-30-2014, 12:36 AM   #8
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Yep I use boeshield t-9 as well. Works well and can be found at most bicycle shops.
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      03-31-2014, 07:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicer View Post
FWIW - I'm not a fan of the rust in those areas either (especially when running wheels without center caps). I cleaned up my hub centers and coated them with Boeshield T9 which is a rust inhibitor - see pics below. I did not however put anything on the wheel or hub mounting surfaces.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Yep I use boeshield t-9 as well. Works well and can be found at most bicycle shops.
How do you guys prep the wheel? Do you just get a brass brush on a dremel and go to town? Then use the Boeshield T9? Do you have to reapply the T9 often? I need to do this to mine as well and am definitely not painting.

Thank you for you input.
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      03-31-2014, 09:20 AM   #10
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So far I just have used steel wool and brush initially as needed to clean the hub area then appy with light cloth. I have done this on mu trailer hubs as well. Not sure of the longevity as just started doiing this recently.
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      03-31-2014, 11:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happos2 View Post
How do you guys prep the wheel? Do you just get a brass brush on a dremel and go to town? Then use the Boeshield T9? Do you have to reapply the T9 often? I need to do this to mine as well and am definitely not painting.

Thank you for you input.
I used a wire brush attachment on a drill, and sand paper for the spots the drill missed. I reapply more T9 every time I wash the car. It dries with a wax-like consistency but wears off over time.

I used to hate wheels without center caps due the exposed Rusty hubs. Now I love how it looks.
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      03-31-2014, 11:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
So far I just have used steel wool and brush initially as needed to clean the hub area then appy with light cloth. I have done this on mu trailer hubs as well. Not sure of the longevity as just started doiing this recently.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slicer View Post
I used a wire brush attachment on a drill, and sand paper for the spots the drill missed. I reapply more T9 every time I wash the car. It dries with a wax-like consistency but wears off over time.

I used to hate wheels without center caps due the exposed Rusty hubs. Now I love how it looks.
Thank you for the answers. Going to have to give this a shot!
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      04-01-2014, 01:27 PM   #13
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I don't disagree at all with "slicer", sounds like you've been around the block once! I'm sure the t-9 works also. . . is that a bicycle chain lube? If you was a "rattle can" type of guy, Mouse Milk would be excellent (Aviation Military Specification), I'm sure the internet could help find this stuff. Don't remember a brand name. Used it at work. In time I will see results of my method. Don't get "dusting" or "fogging" confused with "PAINTING"! Painting is a multiple coats (layers) measured in "mils". Anyhow this car stuff is great! all aspects of it, racing, car shows, actually being the one doing the work! etc. I'm old school, love the old Detroit iron. And old school look of no center caps and ARP studs/nuts.
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      04-01-2014, 03:26 PM   #14
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Wire bursh on drill to clean the hub up a bit and then some good Rustoleum Hammered/Wrinkle Gray.... Love this finish and the way it looks. Comes out amazing with limited prep and excellent durability. Looks pretty good agains the gunmetal Volks too!!
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      04-02-2014, 11:37 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr0fessor
I don't disagree at all with "slicer", sounds like you've been around the block once! I'm sure the t-9 works also. . . is that a bicycle chain lube? If you was a "rattle can" type of guy, Mouse Milk would be excellent (Aviation Military Specification), I'm sure the internet could help find this stuff. Don't remember a brand name. Used it at work. In time I will see results of my method. Don't get "dusting" or "fogging" confused with "PAINTING"! Painting is a multiple coats (layers) measured in "mils". Anyhow this car stuff is great! all aspects of it, racing, car shows, actually being the one doing the work! etc. I'm old school, love the old Detroit iron. And old school look of no center caps and ARP studs/nuts.
Boeshield T9 has a number of uses. It can be used for chain lube, to coat engines / any metal part for marine use, coat unfinished metal table saw surface, etc. it's billed as a rust inhibitor.
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      05-18-2014, 11:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicer View Post
It is common to see corrosion around the wheel hub considering it is an un-coated surface - and designed to be that way. Painting the center of the wheel hub won't hurt anything but painting the mating surface of the wheels and the hub-face is not necessary and will be problematic. Aluminum wheels will not fall victim to rust unless it occurs over a very long period of time, like decades. Keep in mind that most 3-piece wheels have polished lips without any coating, and the mounting surface on every aluminum wheel that I have ever seen is bare metal at the mounting surface (OEM, BBS, HRE, Volk, Advan, OZ, etc). Any spacer that I have ever seen is also either un-coated or anodized which is a chemical finish that does not add any material to the surface of the metal. The problem will occur when those surfaces get scratched from removing and re-installing the wheels. Scratches will cause a build-up of paint and then the wheel won't sit flush. Take a look at the numerous examples of people having problems with spacers.... It's usually due to the mounting surfaces having some sort of contamination. Also, it wouldn't cost wheel manufacturers, or BMW more than $1 to paint those surfaces. They omit paint there for a reason; so that the mounting surfaces are as flat as possible. Best of luck to you....

FWIW - I'm not a fan of the rust in those areas either (especially when running wheels without center caps). I cleaned up my hub centers and coated them with Boeshield T9 which is a rust inhibitor - see pics below. I did not however put anything on the wheel or hub mounting surfaces.



Just saw this post after I bought my TE37SL's. This was helpful, I was uncertain about the slight corrosion around the mating surface and this cleared up some "modification" ideas I had. Thankfully I saw this before I did something I shouldn't have!! Nice!
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