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      02-03-2014, 10:07 AM   #331
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I only have one set of ramps, how critical is it for the car to sit totally flat in order to drain out the oil?

Also, when it comes time to add the new filter, do you place yours in the housing and screw the cap on, or do you place the filter in the cap and screw it on.

Lastly, when removing the old oil from the filter housing, can you use paper towels, or is there some concern over the fibers from the towel being left as some type of debris?

Last edited by Rupes; 02-03-2014 at 01:26 PM.
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      02-17-2014, 07:53 AM   #332
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Sorry for the naive question, but where do you (properly) dispose of the old oil after you DIY an oil change?
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      02-17-2014, 08:19 AM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper519 View Post
Sorry for the naive question, but where do you (properly) dispose of the old oil after you DIY an oil change?
Take it to an Autozone or an O'Reilly Auto Parts store. They will disposed of it free of charge. Can't speak to pep boys or any other chains.
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      02-17-2014, 09:43 AM   #334
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      02-17-2014, 10:13 AM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupes View Post
I only have one set of ramps, how critical is it for the car to sit totally flat in order to drain out the oil?

Also, when it comes time to add the new filter, do you place yours in the housing and screw the cap on, or do you place the filter in the cap and screw it on.

Lastly, when removing the old oil from the filter housing, can you use paper towels, or is there some concern over the fibers from the towel being left as some type of debris?
1) I only jack up the front and it's fine. However, when it's time to refill and check the oil level, you obviously want to be flat.
2) I put the filter into the housing, then put cap on, press it down and start tightening. Don't forget to rub some motor oil on the big gasket on the cap.
3) Use a turkey baster. They are like 2 bucks from Walmart. There's a good amount of old oil in that housing.
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      02-17-2014, 12:07 PM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W///
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupes View Post
I only have one set of ramps, how critical is it for the car to sit totally flat in order to drain out the oil?

Also, when it comes time to add the new filter, do you place yours in the housing and screw the cap on, or do you place the filter in the cap and screw it on.

Lastly, when removing the old oil from the filter housing, can you use paper towels, or is there some concern over the fibers from the towel being left as some type of debris?
1) I only jack up the front and it's fine. However, when it's time to refill and check the oil level, you obviously want to be flat.
2) I put the filter into the housing, then put cap on, press it down and start tightening. Don't forget to rub some motor oil on the big gasket on the cap.
3) Use a turkey baster. They are like 2 bucks from Walmart. There's a good amount of old oil in that housing.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback.
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      02-17-2014, 02:21 PM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
1) I only jack up the front and it's fine. However, when it's time to refill and check the oil level, you obviously want to be flat.
2) I put the filter into the housing, then put cap on, press it down and start tightening. Don't forget to rub some motor oil on the big gasket on the cap.
3) Use a turkey baster. They are like 2 bucks from Walmart. There's a good amount of old oil in that housing.

For #2, just want to add that I fill the housing 1/2 back up fresh oil before putting the filter into the housing, then pour oil all over the filter til the housing is almost full before I put the cap back on. This seem to help a bit on that first start after the oil change.
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      03-10-2014, 11:29 AM   #338
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Great reading!! Just to reconfirm, the drain plugs are 6mm hex. I just bought two as spares with the crush washers at the dealer - total cost with tax $5.54.
Part number for plug is 07-11-9-904-550
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      04-03-2014, 04:48 PM   #339
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harbor freight jack for oil change

Hi All,

I searched through this forum and cannot find a definite answer on which harbor freight floor jack to get.

They have 3 types of jacks that fits my budget (with coupon):
1. 1.5ton racing jack that's 22" in length (3.5" clearance)
http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-p...html-7814.html

2. 1.5ton racing jack that's 27" in length (3.5" clearance)
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-...ump-68054.html

3. 3ton steel jack that's 29" in length, but also its the lowest profile at 2-7/8"
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-l...ump-61253.html

if I want to get a jack and 4 jack stands for my oil change DIY, would any of the above 3 mentioned jacks reach the center front and back jack points on the M3? I have a bone stock E93 convertible on stock OEM 19inch wheels

any input is appreciated

M
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      04-06-2014, 11:31 PM   #340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macky112 View Post
Hi All,

I searched through this forum and cannot find a definite answer on which harbor freight floor jack to get.

They have 3 types of jacks that fits my budget (with coupon):
1. 1.5ton racing jack that's 22" in length (3.5" clearance)
http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-p...html-7814.html

2. 1.5ton racing jack that's 27" in length (3.5" clearance)
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-...ump-68054.html

3. 3ton steel jack that's 29" in length, but also its the lowest profile at 2-7/8"
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-l...ump-61253.html

if I want to get a jack and 4 jack stands for my oil change DIY, would any of the above 3 mentioned jacks reach the center front and back jack points on the M3? I have a bone stock E93 convertible on stock OEM 19inch wheels

any input is appreciated

M
i have seen other members put the front of the car on ramps first before getting to the front center jack point.

i can't speak for the rears and i do not know how to get the rear up.

I am thinking about getting the 3rd option. sorry i couldn't answer your question.

also, does anyone know or has this jack and can confirm if the saddle can cradle the reverse logic jack point adapter? my craftsman 2.5 ton saddle is a smaller than the adapter plate. this saddle is straight metal no rubber to act as friction. i do not feel comfortable jacking this up fearing it will slip going up or down.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-l...ump-61253.html

thanks.
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      04-07-2014, 08:25 AM   #341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwality View Post
also, does anyone know or has this jack and can confirm if the saddle can cradle the reverse logic jack point adapter? my craftsman 2.5 ton saddle is a smaller than the adapter plate. this saddle is straight metal no rubber to act as friction. i do not feel comfortable jacking this up fearing it will slip going up or down.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-l...ump-61253.html

thanks.
Yes it will fit within the sunken portion of the saddle, it would not slide around because the saddle is castellated (has a few raised claws). You can also get a sheet of rubber of some sort and trim it to fit inside the saddle just like the aluminum jacks have.
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      04-07-2014, 08:42 AM   #342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
Yes it will fit within the sunken portion of the saddle, it would not slide around because the saddle is castellated (has a few raised claws). You can also get a sheet of rubber of some sort and trim it to fit inside the saddle just like the aluminum jacks have.
Awesome! Thanks!!
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      04-07-2014, 08:46 AM   #343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macky112 View Post
Hi All,

I searched through this forum and cannot find a definite answer on which harbor freight floor jack to get.

They have 3 types of jacks that fits my budget (with coupon):
1. 1.5ton racing jack that's 22" in length (3.5" clearance)
http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-p...html-7814.html

2. 1.5ton racing jack that's 27" in length (3.5" clearance)
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-...ump-68054.html

3. 3ton steel jack that's 29" in length, but also its the lowest profile at 2-7/8"
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-l...ump-61253.html

if I want to get a jack and 4 jack stands for my oil change DIY, would any of the above 3 mentioned jacks reach the center front and back jack points on the M3? I have a bone stock E93 convertible on stock OEM 19inch wheels

any input is appreciated

M
The 2 smaller alu jacks will not reach for sure, I have one of them. I also doubt the steel one will. If you search on amazon, there are a couple of more expensive and considerably longer/lower steel jacks which I believe will do the trick.

http://www.amazon.com/Omega-29023-Pr...w+profile+jack
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      04-07-2014, 09:31 AM   #344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
The 2 smaller alu jacks will not reach for sure, I have one of them. I also doubt the steel one will. If you search on amazon, there are a couple of more expensive and considerably longer/lower steel jacks which I believe will do the trick.

http://www.amazon.com/Omega-29023-Pr...w+profile+jack
I have this jack and you can easily lift the car from the front. A very good buy.
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      04-07-2014, 09:37 PM   #345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiem3
Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
The 2 smaller alu jacks will not reach for sure, I have one of them. I also doubt the steel one will. If you search on amazon, there are a couple of more expensive and considerably longer/lower steel jacks which I believe will do the trick.

http://www.amazon.com/Omega-29023-Pr...w+profile+jack
I have this jack and you can easily lift the car from the front. A very good buy.
I got the ATD (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OUZVK0) which is exactly the same as the Omega except cheaper. It reaches the front jacking pad but I still needed to drive on ramps ( Race Ramps Track Jacks http://www.reverselogic.us/phone/sho...72&id=20353232) since the car was too low with the ZCP suspension.
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      05-02-2014, 01:25 PM   #346
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Did my first change today, went smoothly just took a while for the oil to drain.

Used a MityVac to suck out the excess oil in the filter housing and adding a bit back in before tightening.

I put 8.25l back in and waited for a measurement.

When I started the car the first time it got loud (about 2-4 clicks of the engine) for a second then went back to normal. I would think this is oil circulating again correct?

Hoping I didn't damage anything. Done many oil changes before on other cars, drain, replace filter, fill oil. This was no different.
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      06-28-2014, 04:18 PM   #347
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while changing my oil i only removed one of the two plugs but had the car on lift and waited till it completly stopped dripping. do u think i got it all or theres going to be some leftover in under that second plug that i missed?
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      06-28-2014, 04:35 PM   #348
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There's probably a good pint or so still in there, but unless you still have it in the air and can pop the other plug I wouldn't worry about it... you'll find out when you see how much oil it takes.
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      08-14-2014, 05:20 PM   #349
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Excellent Thread. Read every post. Did oil change and had a buddy film it for me. Here it is

[u2b]http://youtu.be/Iwy8eIn6z2A[/u2b]


Last edited by CHV; 08-14-2014 at 05:21 PM. Reason: trying to fix vid link
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      08-14-2014, 05:39 PM   #350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryguy29 View Post
while changing my oil i only removed one of the two plugs but had the car on lift and waited till it completly stopped dripping. do u think i got it all or theres going to be some leftover in under that second plug that i missed?
not sure if you noticed, but the air pressures play a role in draining the oil.

You need to remove the oil cap and the oil filter housing and you'll see some more in drain out. then when there's a drip in the front sump, plug that up, and you'll see the air pressure come into play and more oil comes out of the main oil pan.

nevertheless you should drain the front sump. There's some oil in there, but if you didn't, no real big deal, it'll just recirculate the old oil, but it's not too significant.
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      08-29-2014, 01:46 AM   #351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimoM3 View Post
It's not a T40 like some numb nuts have said. Both drain bolts are hex/Allen wrenches.
So, I'll dredge up this old (but useful) thread again to post an interesting finding I made today:

I followed this thread before I did my first mid-BMW-interval oil change, and I found--like many others here--that the two drain plugs were hex/allen bit.

I got underneath the car today to do my second mid-BMW-interval oil change (meaning the dealership conducted an oil change after my last self-service oil change), and I found that the front drain plug was 6mm hex as usual....but the rear drain plug appeared to be stripped so badly I couldn't fit the 6mm hex. After a quick freak-out because I have a track day tomorrow, I took a closer look at the grooves and noticed that they weren't stripped. They were Torx. I pulled out a T40 torx, and it fit perfectly.

I'll take a picture of the drain plug in the next few days, but it is 100% a T40 Torx drain plug. After all the harsh words and fierce back and forth debate, I think we overlooked the possibility that BMW dealerships sometimes use either (or in my case, both) Torx and Hex/Allen.
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      11-01-2014, 12:47 PM   #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWguy206 View Post
TIS says 8.8L with oil filter.
So I just want to share my experience changing the engine oil today on my 2011 E92. Before I begin, I am curious how many others have experienced what I am about to describe, so please let me know.

I just want to thank Bimmerblog, the creator of the YouTube video at the following link for creating a DIY video for changing the oil

Also want to say that the kit from ECS tuning is the BEEZNEEZ!

With all that out of the way....

Changing the oil on the car was a breeze. I am by no means a trained mechanic. I enjoy DIYing most regular maintenance on my vehicle (cars, truck, and motorcycles). I just followed the directions in the video, and applied tips from things I read here on the forum.

Unfortunately, the facility I was using didn't allow me to fully warm up the car before I drained the oil. Not sure how bad this is, but it is what it is. The oil was hot, but not all the way to operating temperature.

I removed the filter and the fill cap then raised the car on the lift.

I removed both drain plugs and allowed the oil to pretty much completely drain. I let the oil drain from both plugs until there was almost nothing coming out of either. The rear plug was still dripping, but the front was done.

After replacing the drain plugs (using new crush washers), I lowered the car. I used an ass load of paper towels soaking up the remaining oil in the filter housing. In hindsight I would have done this before draining the oil out of the bottom of the car as some of the used oil in the housing went back into the engine compartment...not much, so no worries.

Then I filled the oil.

I emptied 8 liters into the car and then started it. I let it idle up to operating temperature at which time the check engine oil monitor began to read the oil level...

it warned me that the oil was BELOW minimum level.



I freaked...and shut off the car immediately.

I added another half liter and turned the car back on...

BELOW minimum level...



I was like OMG...really???

So I added the remaining half liter, bringing me to 9 liters of oil put back into the car. I turned it back on and waited...

and waited..



and waited...

Finally it read at half way between minimum and maximum. Good enough to drive to the store to buy some more oil because I only brought 9 liters with me to the shop.

I ended up adding an additional half liter (total of 9.5 liters) for it to read at the maximum line. JEEZ...lol

Anyways, I am just curious how many of you have experienced this? I know that the fill with filter change is supposed to be 8.8 liters, but that wasn't my experience.

So that was my experience doing my fist DIY job on the M3.
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