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      08-13-2012, 09:01 PM   #45
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If you run the ducts with the ST60s...won't your pads and rotors last a lot longer? Although you wouldn't HAVE to if you were lazy or just didn't have time.

I really look forward to getting a BBK...the OEM calipers are a minor PIA and I'm very spoiled by the stoptech kit on my E46.
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      08-15-2012, 09:05 AM   #46
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Update: the setup I have pictured a few posts ago does not fit with my new wider fronts and lowered on the KW CS. I ran the ducts stock and they worked, but with the car lowered and running 265 AD08 up front they do not allow enough movement before rubbing.

Yes, bigjae, I would definitely save on pads and rotors if it fit. There may be an alternate mounting solution, but as it sits now the hoses barely allow for any movement of the steering wheel unfortunately.

I got ~1 full turn each direction of the wheel stock on 245 PS2. I did not measure the allowed movement with the new setup because it is so little that it probably wouldn't even be sufficient on track, much less on the street.
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      08-15-2012, 09:32 PM   #47
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From your pic, it looks like maybe you can route the hose over the sway bar instead of just zip tied next to it?
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      08-20-2012, 04:07 PM   #48
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Possibly, but then I risk the sway contacting the hose under compression. There is very little room for hoses now that the car is a lot lower and I have wider rubber. Thankfully the ST60's held up awesome without ducting.
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      12-26-2013, 10:20 PM   #49
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Wonderful info. Thanks
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      01-30-2014, 02:17 AM   #50
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This is awesome! So the piping doesn't get hit by the wheel/tire at all during regular driving??
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      04-14-2014, 07:44 PM   #51
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Going to try this with my 380 brembos. Lets see how this turns out. Can't wait until my stuff arrives.
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      06-10-2014, 12:07 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuniorM3
I put the tape around the ducting so the floor and cables don't cut trough.

Install your floor back on the car.

6: Trie rip the duct to the lower control arm. I used 4 tie rips , you can only see 3. I used one to tie the 2 tie rips together to stop them sliding over the Control arm.
Attachment 320392

7: Point it at the center of the disc.
Attachment 320393
With the brake ducts attached to the front lower control arms, they are in line with the backplate air inlet.


8: From the side it should now look like this
Attachment 320394

Now you can make some custom backplates.
Or just make the ends of the brake ducts oval and lodge it in the back plate opening behind. With the length @ 42 Cm - 17'' it's just right.
Yes, i know what you are thinking. That won't work, it will be all over the place...But i tested it, 900Km hard drivin' so far and they stay in to place.....Unbelievable but true.

Now to make your Custom Backplates

9: Remove your calipers, by undoing two 18mm bolt thats hold the caliper. you can remove the caliper and use some zip ties to hang it somewhere.

I stole a few pics for Longtrans BBK install

10: Remove the brake disc. 6mm hex on the face of the rotor.


11: Mark the back of the backplate where you will create the opening and mounting points for the brake duct first before removing it.

12: Remove the back plate.


13: Work you magic, Do some riveting and attach your 'ring' to the backplate to accept the ducting hose. Make sure with a bit measuring and fitting that your 'ring' installation does not touch the hub and that you leave some space to later attach the hose and clamp.
Attachment 322851

14: The red is the metal i removed to get the extra air to the disc. The red arrow point to the 'ring' it's kinda hard to c.
Attachment 322852

15: Attach your brake ducting hose to the 'ring' you just installed on the back plate.
Attachment 322853

16: Install everything back and you just saved yourself over a 1100+ Euro/Dollars!!

It took me 3 hours, it helps allot! I drove my car hard after i installed it today and it works no more fading!! And when i park my car @ home i don't hear the brakes 'crack' or 'ping' any more.
It's like BMW left the space to install the ducting.

It's easy, Hope this post inspires you to put this cheap DIY upgrade on your M3 fast! Then you can finally drive it hard like you should!
Jr
Are those e9x m3 rotors? I have never seen m3 rotors that are not cross drilled.
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      06-10-2014, 01:16 AM   #53
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Potentially stupid question, but is there any utility to simply installing a pass-through in the felt undertray so that air can pass through the bumper and into the wheel well, but without actually ducting it all the way to the rotor?

I ask only because (1) I'm concerned about uneven cooling on the rotor with a system that just blows air onto the back surface without actually pushing air down through the vanes and (2) I don't want to have to deal with the tubing getting crushed.

Seems to me that just getting additional cool air in the wheel well might be a good compromise, especially for those of us with a BBK.
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      06-25-2014, 08:10 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hujan View Post
Potentially stupid question, but is there any utility to simply installing a pass-through in the felt undertray so that air can pass through the bumper and into the wheel well, but without actually ducting it all the way to the rotor?

I ask only because (1) I'm concerned about uneven cooling on the rotor with a system that just blows air onto the back surface without actually pushing air down through the vanes and (2) I don't want to have to deal with the tubing getting crushed.

Seems to me that just getting additional cool air in the wheel well might be a good compromise, especially for those of us with a BBK.
There would probably be some benefit, but many of us ran the hose right up to the rotor face without issue. The tubing on my car was okay for about one full turn of the wheel each way before it started hitting it. I really don't think you need this with a bbk. I have ST60 and don't run ducts because I never have fade and pad wear is acceptable.

Of course, if you really want ducting, the best way would be to get a backing plate to distribute air through the vanes as you alluded to.
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