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View Poll Results: Which watch maker's design do you like best?
A. Lange & Sonne 18 7.83%
Audemars Piguet 36 15.65%
Bedat 0 0%
Bell & Ross 20 8.70%
Blancpain 6 2.61%
Breguet 4 1.74%
Breitling 63 27.39%
Cartier 18 7.83%
Chopard 7 3.04%
Concord 2 0.87%
Corum 4 1.74%
Frank Muller 5 2.17%
Hublot 36 15.65%
Patek Philippe 39 16.96%
Panerai 58 25.22%
Omega 64 27.83%
Ulysse Nardin 14 6.09%
Vacheron Constantin 7 3.04%
Timex 6 2.61%
Hamilton 10 4.35%
Citizen 14 6.09%
Seiko 8 3.48%
Movado 10 4.35%
Rolex 80 34.78%
Krieger 0 0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 230. You may not vote on this poll

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      12-06-2013, 07:13 PM   #177
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On a daily basis, I get an email from watchtime.com. Today was a really interesting article about chronograph movements and the writers top ten.
This is the article:
http://www.watchtime.com/blog/fratel...dc4e8-14228137

Fratello Friday: Watch Nerd Alert! Top 10 Chronograph Movements, Part 1
December 6, 2013 By Robert-Jan Broer

A while back, I wrote an article on my top 5 iconic chronograph watches. Some of you readers wondered why Zenith wasn’t in there. Quite simply, it didn’t make my personal Top 5. However, I do love the Zenith El Primero movement, and think that its reputation as a great chronograph caliber is well-earned. So, to make it up for some of you fellow watch nerds out there, this week’s Fratello Friday (and next week’s) focuses specifically on chronograph movements rather than watches. Here is part one of my personal top 10.

One of my watch-loving friends – who, sadly, passed away a couple of years ago – had a special appreciation for chronographs and even ended all his e-mails with, “Chronographs, like most finer things in life, only improve with time.” If you want to know more about chronograph movements, and certain specific calibers, from a collector’s point of view, I recommend you read the interview I did with him a couple of years ago (click here). Although it does not include the latest chronograph movements, it is still a useful article covering many important aspects of chronographs.

Another great read that I can recommend if you want to learn more about chronograph movements is the book Chronograph Wristwatches – To Top Time, written by Gerd-Rüdiger Lang (founder and former CEO of Chronoswiss) and Reinhard Meis. The book dates from 1993 and offers good – albeit very technical – descriptions of the various chronograph movements out there.

My personal Top 10 contains in-house manufactured movements as well as mass-produced movements from manufacturers such as Lemania. You will also note that I’ve included types with both column-wheel and lever mechanisms. Other considerations include aesthetics and other attributes, all based on my experience in watch collecting over the last 15 years.

1. Zenith El Primero
The El Primero was introduced in 1969 and the first two versions were Caliber 3019PHC (with chronograph and date) and Caliber 3019PHF (with triple date, moon-phase, and chronograph). This first automatic chronograph movement ever is a ‘fast ticker,’ with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). Most chronographs at the time of its introduction were ticking at 18,000 vph or 21,600 vph. The 36,000 vph makes it possible to time intervals to 1/10th of a second. The El Primero movement as we know it today is an evolution of the very first Caliber 3019 movements. Over time, we’ve seen several brands other than Zenith using El Primero chronograph movements, including Movado, TAG Heuer, Ebel, and even some Rolex Daytonas (though Rolex made some adjustments to it). If you are really into chronographs, you need at least one watch with this movement inside it.

2. Lemania 5100
You don’t have to be a movement expert to see that this one is a rather ugly specimen. It has no column-wheel mechanism and it even has some plastic parts inside. The reason that I put this particular movement at number 2 is that it is a no-nonsense workhorse, with central second and minute chronograph hands (for easier reading), a 24-hour hand, and a day-date feature. This movement was discontinued a few years ago, which apparently brought a few chronograph collectors nearly to tears. Tutima is one of the brands that has used it for a very long time, even after the discontinuation of its production. Other brands that have used the Lemania 5100 include Omega (which calls it Caliber 1045), Sinn, Fortis, Porsche Design, and Alain Silberstein. Lemania also created its own chronograph watches in the past that contained this movement. Word is that Fortis, Sinn and Tutima used this particular movement because it was the only one at the time meeting military requirements for chronograph watches. (Photo from Watchconcept.com).

3. Lemania 2310
Another Lemania, but very different than the 5100. This Lemania 2310 is perhaps better known under Omega’s “Caliber 321″ label, which was used in the very first Omega Speedmaster watches (click here). However, Omega wasn’t the only brand to use this Lemania column-wheel chronograph caliber. Even Patek Philippe used it for some of its chronograph watches, renaming it Caliber CH27-70. Of course, the Patek Philippe CH27-70 looked very different from the Omega Caliber 321 in terms of its finish, but both are based on that very same Lemania movement. Speedmaster fans crave the original Caliber 321, which Omega replaced in 1968 with Caliber 861 (also based on a Lemania movement), which had a lever mechanism instead of a column wheel. (Photo courtesy of SteveG)

4. Rolex 4130
Before 2000, Rolex used hand-wound Valjoux Caliber 72 chronograph movements, and modified Zenith El Primero movements, for its Cosmograph Daytona watches. In 2000, Rolex introduced the successor to its Caliber 4030 movement (based on the El Primero), Rolex Caliber 4130. Fully developed and manufactured in-house, this automatic chronograph chronometer movement is solid as a rock and cleverly engineered. Rolex was able to reduce the number of components with a new, patented solution for the chronograph mechanism. The extra space has been used to house a larger mainspring, which increased the power-reserve capacity from 50 to 72 hours. A watchmaker from a local Rolex service center has also told me that the Daytona is quite easy for them to service thanks to this movement’s construction.

5. A. Lange & Söhne L951.6
Let’s go a bit high-end here, to end Part 1 of this list. The hand-wound Caliber L951.6 by A. Lange & Söhne powers the brand’s Datograph Auf/Ab timepiece and, as you can see from the photo, has an incredibly high level of finishing and craftsmanship. The balance bridge has that traditional Glashütte finish (hand-engraving) and all the movement parts are meticulously finished as well. All the parts — even the balance spring — are manufactured in-house. This particular movement consists of 451 parts, which means assembly is surely a painstaking job for Lange’s watchmakers in Germany. Although I have much respect and admiration for all Lange movements, the one in the Datograph Auf/Ab (Up/Down) movement is definitely one of my favorites.

Next week: I reveal numbers 6 through 10 of my personal favorite chronograph movements.
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      12-16-2013, 12:08 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Litos View Post
i'm far from a watch aficionado, but i can't help but to buy Invictas...

their bulky designs and details in the cases make me feel a kind of way....

these 3 watches are the only watches i have purchased since 1998....

again, i'm no watch expert but i really enjoy the Invicta line...

in order of appearence: Bolt, Venom, Bolt Zeus






Invicta make some fairly unique designs and they certainly have the "bling factor" well covered. I've seen the Zeus in a tri-color variant. It was a design disaster: too many colors on a watch that already has a log going on. The pink color you bought is far better.


My personal taste for "bling" is a bit more subtle and smaller. I think once the holiday and my son's college choice becomes more clear, I'm going to bite the bullet and buy this one. It's pretty unique among watches of its ilk in that all the "good stuff" is on the front of the watch. VC make a watch that is in the same vein, but the pictures are on the rear of the watch, so you have to take it off to enjoy the functionality. I've loved the Caligula's elegant main design, its outrageousness and its subtlety for some time now and having no novelty watches at all, it's the one I want even though it's not in-house. (NSFW - http://www.watchonista.com/2914/watc...%80%99s-behind)

All the best.
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      12-16-2013, 12:12 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjbstewart View Post
I came across this site - looks like you can rent watches!

http://techcrunch.com/2013/12/02/ele...ur-wrist-wear/
I looked into this company and their program. I think it's a reasonably good idea for folks who want to wear nice watches and who don't want to spend $20K+ each year to do so.

All the best.
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      01-11-2014, 04:54 PM   #180
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Here's an interesting link:

http://www.wristwatchweblogs.com/ind...rands-of-2012/

Most popular brand in US and Europe: Rolex. Admittedly the list stops at 50 and there are literally thousands of brands. Remember, the list is about popularity. It doesn't have anything to do with specific watches. Indeed, there's not a brand listed that doesn't make at least one watch I like. And there are plenty of brands that make outstanding watches, for example, FP Journe or Lang and Heyne.

All the best.
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      02-04-2014, 11:33 AM   #181
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I didn't think I'd do it, but I got another watch.....

Jason Taylor Invicta Bolt Zeus Limited Edition #755 of 999...

red and black










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      02-10-2014, 02:26 PM   #182
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No IWC voting option?!

Favourite watch I've had and regret selling it. Kept much better time than my Rolex ever has.
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      02-10-2014, 07:25 PM   #183
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Cant really say which is my favorite but I always have 3 specific watches on the dresser for heavy rotation.
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      02-10-2014, 07:35 PM   #184
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I did buy one invicta and their reuptation of being poor watches is deserved. Any product that gets sold on qvc is directed at a certain demographic that doesn't really fit.

Last edited by 1MOREMOD; 02-11-2014 at 05:24 PM.
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      02-10-2014, 07:39 PM   #185
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Always loved the simple/sporty looks of a Tag

My current watch of choice
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      02-11-2014, 09:38 AM   #186
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Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by MandMs335Msport View Post
This pole is useless without this brand. (My favorite)

Mark
Also one of my favorites. Along with Omega.
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      02-11-2014, 04:38 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Any product that gets sold on qvc is directed at a certain demographic that doesn't really fit.
oh wow - you're really that dense !?!?



Brietling: http://www.shophq.com/SearchM/Defaul...text=brietling

Citizen: http://www.shophq.com/SearchM/Defaul...op=Watches|229

Movado: http://www.shophq.com/SearchM/Defaul...&sort=1&Items=

Tag Heuer: http://www.shophq.com/SearchM/Defaul...&sort=1&Items=

Renato: http://www.shophq.com/SearchM/Defaul...&sort=1&Items=

Gucci: http://www.shophq.com/SearchM/Defaul...&sort=1&Items=

Tissot: http://www.shophq.com/SearchM/Defaul...&sort=1&Items=

Invicta: http://www.shophq.com/SearchM/Defaul...&sort=1&Items=
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      02-11-2014, 05:18 PM   #188
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Guess so never seen most of those brands on there. I don't actually watch the channel they just have invicta hour and such listed on tv info. Strange how they can show episodes from several years ago also. How does that work. I did say I own one, just not a fan. 50 bucks wasn't really worth it.
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      02-11-2014, 09:35 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Guess so never seen most of those brands on there. I don't actually watch the channel they just have invicta hour and such listed on tv info. Strange how they can show episodes from several years ago also. How does that work. I did say I own one, just not a fan. 50 bucks wasn't really worth it.
so you personally bought a $50 watch and are openly complaining about it !?!?

makes perfect sense.....................

you should have just let your dad or brother punt you in the beanbag - woulda been the same thing as buying a $50 watch.....
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      02-11-2014, 09:50 PM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
I did buy one invicta and their reuptation of being poor watches is deserved. Any product that gets sold on qvc is directed at a certain demographic that doesn't really fit.
What was wrong with it?
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      02-11-2014, 10:11 PM   #191
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Also be honest - is it really the case that Invicta Rolex replicas (for example) are of "poor quality" (for the price) or is it just irritating to know that a replica watch that will probably fool 70%+ of the population costs ~$9000-$10000 less than the Rolex it imitates?

Personally if I cared about watches as a status symbol, I'd be annoyed. Obviously I don't care about watches as a status symbol, but I can see the rationale. If I was a genuine collector of all watches, I'd probably just collect everything - replicas and "originals" alike.
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      02-12-2014, 12:01 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Litos View Post
so you personally bought a $50 watch and are openly complaining about it !?!?

makes perfect sense.....................

you should have just let your dad or brother punt you in the beanbag - woulda been the same thing as buying a $50 watch.....
i have several low end watches that seem better quality. the higher end invictas come in circus freak 12 inch diameters that flavor flav could wear on his neck and/or sit off your wrist 6 inches. i guess i prefer a less look at me approach. my last purchase was a stowa marine and its beautiful and simple.
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      02-12-2014, 12:08 AM   #193
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Quote:
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Also be honest - is it really the case that Invicta Rolex replicas (for example)
which Invictas are "Rolex Reps" ??

I don't recall seeing any....
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      02-12-2014, 12:11 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
i have several low end watches that seem better quality.
wow - next time don't try to be so detailed.....

something tells me you're just crawfishing on your comments with far from anything knowledgeable to say about "better quality".....

it's ok, i'll wait on you since you'll need time go do some research on google or find a website that may or may not prove your point without even mentioning the EXACT Invicta you say you once had, which is probably also a lie.....
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      02-12-2014, 12:11 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemesisX View Post
What was wrong with it?
it works, just seems cheap. i still wear it sometimes like with all my watches.
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      02-12-2014, 12:20 AM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Litos View Post
wow - next time don't try to be so detailed.....

something tells me you're just crawfishing on your comments with far from anything knowledgeable to say about "better quality".....

it's ok, i'll wait on you since you'll need time go do some research on google or find a website that may or may not prove your point without even mentioning the EXACT Invicta you say you once had, which is probably also a lie.....
its in my watch case upstairs just looked its an i force collection watch was marketed as blue and face is purple for starters. case back says 15254 if that helps. how do i crawfish?
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      02-12-2014, 12:23 AM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
its in my watch case upstairs just looked its an i force collection watch was marketed as blue and face is purple for starters. case back says 15254 if that helps. how do i crawfish?
could be both......I see it as a blue with a bit of purple in it......

case looks good, but I don't do leather straps.....

plus, I don't do small watches either -I'm a big dude with big hands and big forearms.

I need a 50mm or bigger.....

but, you get what you pay for, I guess....
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      02-12-2014, 12:28 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Litos View Post
which Invictas are "Rolex Reps" ??

I don't recall seeing any....
The Invicta Men's Pro Diver is a replica of the $10,000 Rolex Submariner. Rolex has tried to sue (unsuccessfully) Invicta numerous times.




The Invicta gets rave reviews on Amazon -

http://www.amazon.com/Invicta-Diver-.../dp/B0006AAS4M

But, a lot of hardcore Rolex fans don't like it because it looks exactly the same as their $10,000 watch, only it costs like $70. And a lot of unsuspecting people think the Invicta is a really expensive watch because the Rolex submariner is so popular and the Invicta looks exactly like the submariner (and tells time 99.9999% the same as well). So, the Invicta sometimes gets an unwarranted "prestige boost" by riding on the coattails of the submariner.

The thing is, if you're actually going to subject the watch to water, the Rolex probably performs better. But, most people I know with pro diver watches actually don't dive
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