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      11-08-2013, 11:41 AM   #45
dans///m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlp View Post
As it pertains to the rear. Altering the length spring affects the ride height. Altering the length of the shock affects the range of motion when the shock is fully extended. Because of the geometry of the suspension components i.e. 5mm on the spring my not translate to 5mm on the shock. I wouldn't deviate lot from the recommended settings. I just went down a tad. I used the suggested setting in rear at first and I could feel the pre-load on the spring by tugging and twisting on it. When I lowered the ride height I lowered the shock to the same preload "Feel" that it had with the suggested settings. Not rocket science
Thanks again. Sorry for being so newb - bear with me. I would actually like to raise the rear because I don't like the "tucked" look at all (20mm rear is .875", want it about .6" or about 14 - 15mm).

Let's say I changed the adjuster from 37mm to 43mm (4 turns) and left the shock as is (per recommended settings), would that have any adverse affects? Or do you recommend trying to keep the preload the same as recommended (thus lengthening the shock a bit, although not necessarily 6mm - since you've said it doesn't exactly translate)? The instructions say that the adjustments can be about +-15mm from recommended - so we should still be well within optimal operating ranges, right?
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      11-08-2013, 01:06 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dans///m3 View Post
Thanks again. Sorry for being so newb - bear with me. I would actually like to raise the rear because I don't like the "tucked" look at all (20mm rear is .875", want it about .6" or about 14 - 15mm).

Let's say I changed the adjuster from 37mm to 43mm (4 turns) and left the shock as is (per recommended settings), would that have any adverse affects? Or do you recommend trying to keep the preload the same as recommended (thus lengthening the shock a bit, although not necessarily 6mm - since you've said it doesn't exactly translate)? The instructions say that the adjustments can be about +-15mm from recommended - so we should still be well within optimal operating ranges, right?
Personally, I would leave the shock at the recommended lenght if you plan on raising the car past the mfg's suggestions.
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      12-10-2013, 01:53 AM   #47
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Help guys! Yesterday i set up the height of the Rear suspension. I set equal height on springs. But when i gathered the suspension and install wheels, I measured the height from the ground to the middle of the arch wing and saw that on the left side I got the 5 mm less than the height to the right. Why did it happen??? Maybe someone had this problem?
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      12-10-2013, 12:44 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex-R-1 View Post
Help guys! Yesterday i set up the height of the Rear suspension. I set equal height on springs. But when i gathered the suspension and install wheels, I measured the height from the ground to the middle of the arch wing and saw that on the left side I got the 5 mm less than the height to the right. Why did it happen??? Maybe someone had this problem?
There is always some manufacturer's tolerances so you will have to fine tune it a bit.
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      12-10-2013, 04:14 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex-R-1 View Post
Help guys! Yesterday i set up the height of the Rear suspension. I set equal height on springs. But when i gathered the suspension and install wheels, I measured the height from the ground to the middle of the arch wing and saw that on the left side I got the 5 mm less than the height to the right. Why did it happen??? Maybe someone had this problem?
Confirm everything is properly seated on the high side and double check all measurements are equal. I have some side to side variance as well. If everything looks okay I wouldn't worry about it.
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      12-13-2013, 09:52 AM   #50
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Tell me please how to adjust the height?
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      12-13-2013, 12:36 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex-R-1 View Post
Tell me please how to adjust the height?
have you looked at your owner's manual?
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      12-13-2013, 01:12 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
have you looked at your owner's manual?
The manual is a good start but unfortunately I didn't see where it explained any best practices on how to adjust? The manuals on all of these products seem amazingly poor. Anyone looking at the coilovers for about 10 seconds will know about as much as the manual explains.

For the fronts:

- Get entire front end of car in the air and both wheels off.
- **Mark position of strut into axle carrier with a sharpie** I also mark the position of the adjuster with the axle carrier and raise/lower in one turn increments.
- Loosen pinch bolt in axle carrier but no need to fully remove this bolt (just make sure it is completely loose).
- Put a jack under front wheel assembly so strut is sitting square in axle carrier (easier to turn this way) but do not compress the spring at all or put any upward force on the assembly that would make the adjuster harder to turn.
- Twist gold anodized adjuster at bottom of strut to adjust height. The entire strut will want to move so make sure to hold it steady (this is why you marked the positioning of everything in step 2).
- Re-tighten pinch bolt. TORQUE TO BMW SPEC. This bolt is very very difficult to torque by feel since it will feel somewhat tight but continue tightening for quite some time. I got myself in trouble the first time I installed as I did not tighten properly. First time I have ever had this problem so be careful.

Rear:

- Get entire rear end of car in the air and both wheels off.
- Mark position of everything. I like to raise/lower one turn at a time for simplicity.
- Loosen two adjusters with spanner wrenches by turning in opposite directions.
- The main problem with adjusting the rear is the gold threaded adjuster will want to spin when you adjust the height. Here are the pro-tips I've learned on this one:
A. If you want to RAISE the car (its easier to raise than lower). Spin the locking ring all the way to the top of the gold anodized adjuster until it bottoms out (don't worry it won't get stuck) and use the 2nd spanner wrench on this lock ring to prevent the adjuster assembly from spinning.
B. If you want to LOWER the car. Since there is a rubber pad between the chassis and the gold adjuster assembly if you compress the spring slightly the friction between the chassis/rubber pad/gold adjuster (top) will be greater than between the spring and gold adjuster (bottom). Sometimes it will only take about 1/8" of suspension compression to prevent this assembly from spinning, other times it will take more. Try to use as little as possible as putting load on the soft aluminum threads while adjusting is not the best idea. If all else fails you can remove the shock from the lower control arm, put two bolts into the wheel hub and have a buddy stand on the bolts to relieve pressure off the spring.
- Tighten everything back up and put back together.
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      12-13-2013, 05:49 PM   #53
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I have a manual Ohlins! I installed suspension on my car! But I can't set up good height! My wheels BBS Fi wide and I have a rub on the plastic locker.
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      12-13-2013, 06:36 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W Cole View Post
The manual is a good start but unfortunately I didn't see where it explained any best practices on how to adjust? The manuals on all of these products seem amazingly poor. Anyone looking at the coilovers for about 10 seconds will know about as much as the manual explains.

For the fronts:

- Get entire front end of car in the air and both wheels off.
- **Mark position of strut into axle carrier with a sharpie** I also mark the position of the adjuster with the axle carrier and raise/lower in one turn increments.
- Loosen pinch bolt in axle carrier but no need to fully remove this bolt (just make sure it is completely loose).
- Put a jack under front wheel assembly so strut is sitting square in axle carrier (easier to turn this way) but do not compress the spring at all or put any upward force on the assembly that would make the adjuster harder to turn.
- Twist gold anodized adjuster at bottom of strut to adjust height. The entire strut will want to move so make sure to hold it steady (this is why you marked the positioning of everything in step 2).
- Re-tighten pinch bolt. TORQUE TO BMW SPEC. This bolt is very very difficult to torque by feel since it will feel somewhat tight but continue tightening for quite some time. I got myself in trouble the first time I installed as I did not tighten properly. First time I have ever had this problem so be careful.

Rear:

- Get entire rear end of car in the air and both wheels off.
- Mark position of everything. I like to raise/lower one turn at a time for simplicity.
- Loosen two adjusters with spanner wrenches by turning in opposite directions.
- The main problem with adjusting the rear is the gold threaded adjuster will want to spin when you adjust the height. Here are the pro-tips I've learned on this one:
A. If you want to RAISE the car (its easier to raise than lower). Spin the locking ring all the way to the top of the gold anodized adjuster until it bottoms out (don't worry it won't get stuck) and use the 2nd spanner wrench on this lock ring to prevent the adjuster assembly from spinning.
B. If you want to LOWER the car. Since there is a rubber pad between the chassis and the gold adjuster assembly if you compress the spring slightly the friction between the chassis/rubber pad/gold adjuster (top) will be greater than between the spring and gold adjuster (bottom). Sometimes it will only take about 1/8" of suspension compression to prevent this assembly from spinning, other times it will take more. Try to use as little as possible as putting load on the soft aluminum threads while adjusting is not the best idea. If all else fails you can remove the shock from the lower control arm, put two bolts into the wheel hub and have a buddy stand on the bolts to relieve pressure off the spring.
- Tighten everything back up and put back together.
I thought it was well written myself.

I guess not everyone knows what to do, what your post will help those few DIYers.
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      12-14-2013, 04:58 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex-R-1 View Post
I have a manual Ohlins! I installed suspension on my car! But I can't set up good height! My wheels BBS Fi wide and I have a rub on the plastic locker.
I am assuming you have you maxed out your camber? Changing height probably won't cure the rubbing just make it happen less.
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      12-15-2013, 02:11 PM   #56
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I set equal height on Rear springs. But when i gathered the suspension and install wheels, I measured the height from the ground to the middle of the arch wing and saw that on the left side I got the 5 mm less than the height to the right. Why???

Last edited by Alex-R-1; 12-15-2013 at 02:38 PM.
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      05-31-2014, 05:59 PM   #57
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Hi,

I've got an E92 M3 with the Competition Pack (I think it's called the ZCP in the States) and I'm thinking of going for the Ohlins R&T suspension. I've got a couple of questions before I pull the trigger.

How do I deal with the error codes that will come up when I disconnect the EDC?

Also, I don't really want to lower the car too much because it's a daily driver and I need to get over speed humps etc, so if I set the Ohlins on its highest setting how much lower than my ZCP will it sit?

Any advice gratefully received.

Jack
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      06-02-2014, 11:48 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FazerBoy View Post
Hi,

I've got an E92 M3 with the Competition Pack (I think it's called the ZCP in the States) and I'm thinking of going for the Ohlins R&T suspension. I've got a couple of questions before I pull the trigger.

How do I deal with the error codes that will come up when I disconnect the EDC?

Also, I don't really want to lower the car too much because it's a daily driver and I need to get over speed humps etc, so if I set the Ohlins on its highest setting how much lower than my ZCP will it sit?

Any advice gratefully received.

Jack
For the EDC error, you'll need someone to code it out or you can get the Macht Schnell EDC emulator module.

The Ohlins have plenty of upward adjustability to get you to the stock ride height, so you won't have any problems.
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      06-03-2014, 10:33 PM   #59
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Had mine on my car for a month now...couldn't agree with you more!

Also, nice are ya have...Clean!

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Quote:
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Luv em. Street and track. I honestly think they are ton more comfy on the street than stock suspension. Yet more capable at the same time.
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      06-06-2014, 01:58 PM   #60
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Is it more comfortable than EDC on comfort mode?
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      06-08-2014, 07:37 PM   #61
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Is it more comfortable than EDC on comfort mode?
Absolutely not. They are comfortable enough to use as a street setup. I have had them for about 9 months now and I think 6K miles. Definitely better on the track but not as comfortable as EDC comfort mode on the street.
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      06-08-2014, 08:16 PM   #62
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Absolutely not. They are comfortable enough to use as a street setup. I have had them for about 9 months now and I think 6K miles. Definitely better on the track but not as comfortable as EDC comfort mode on the street.
What do you have your Ohlins set at?
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      06-08-2014, 09:41 PM   #63
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What do you have your Ohlins set at?
For street 15-19 clicks from full hard.
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      06-09-2014, 12:36 AM   #64
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For street 15-19 clicks from full hard.
Interesting. I rode in a car set stiffer than that and it felt plusher than ZCP "Normal."
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      06-09-2014, 12:42 AM   #65
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Interesting. I rode in a car set stiffer than that and it felt plusher than ZCP "Normal."
I didn't have zcp. ZCP is lower and probably has stiffer springs than my 09 sedan (I couldn't order zcp back in the day). Ohlins springs are about twice as stiff up front, if I remember correctly.
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      06-09-2014, 06:33 AM   #66
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Replaced ZCP with Ohlins set at 10-12 and ride quality control (the wife) thinks they ride better than stock on "comfort". Certainly not worse by any appreciable margin IMHO.
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