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      11-25-2013, 07:17 PM   #1
CarbonAlpine
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2011 bmw m3 oil change question

I was searching the forum for a DIY on changing oil. I found:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185785

My question is, are they any differences between the model years? I have a 2011, does anyone know the drain bolt size; 6mm or 8mm? Is torque values 18lbs?

Thanks guys, going to do my oil change tomorrow and want to make sure I follow the DIY for the torque values as long as it's consistent with all model years.
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      11-25-2013, 08:31 PM   #2
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No difference between years. I believe drain bolt is 6mm hex. 25-nm sounds about right. I believe the torque value for the filter is on the cap.
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      11-25-2013, 09:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C|3R1C View Post
No difference between years. I believe drain bolt is 6mm hex. 25-nm sounds about right. I believe the torque value for the filter is on the cap.
I just read the DIY again and realized the 25nm is for oil filter housing. The drain plugs are only 10nm...is this correct?
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      11-25-2013, 09:48 PM   #4
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Just hand tighten it well and you should be good. You do not need to and should.never overtighten drain plugs.
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      11-25-2013, 09:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonAlpine View Post
I just read the DIY again and realized the 25nm is for oil filter housing. The drain plugs are only 10nm...is this correct?
Yes it is. I also recommend replacing the drain plugs if you're past 50k miles.
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      11-25-2013, 10:13 PM   #6
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Thanks guys, I just read a thread where it stated the oil filter housing changed for 2011+ to 40nm and the plugs should be tightened to 25nm.

Confusing
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      11-25-2013, 10:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonAlpine View Post
Thanks guys, I just read a thread where it stated the oil filter housing changed for 2011+ to 40nm and the plugs should be tightened to 25nm.

Confusing
Just hand tighten them and you'll be ok, just don't over-tighten and strip it. That's what I did with my 2008 M3 and it was fine when I traded it in at 89k miles, no leaks or anything like that.
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      11-26-2013, 01:25 AM   #8
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Thanks pal, will do
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      11-26-2013, 09:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Sparkle View Post
based on my experience, I also recommend replacing the plugs after the dealers changed it, or you'll risk stripping the bolt. It is made out of softer metal. For the oil change, buy the extra plugs, and have extras on hand in case you strip it. It's only like $1.47 or something.

I think Red Baron once had an unsuccessful oil change where he couldn't get the drain plug out without stripping the plug. (also without an extra one on hand, what a PITA, that and it was hot, muggy, and raining during the oil change)
The torque levels were so extreme, two grown asian men couldn't calculate how much torque was needed to get the plug out. We needed calculators to figure it out but my TI-83 was out of juice.
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      11-26-2013, 09:45 AM   #10
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I would be careful with the drain bolts. Don't just blindly dial in the torque value and go at it, you might end up stripping it. Hand tighten it using the smaller 1/8" ratchet (allows less torque) and apply light force to tighten it. Common sense approach comes in handy here. Then you can check with the torque wrench if you so desire. The filter housing uses a big ass nut that is easy to torque down but the drain bolt is so small, torquing it gets tricky.

By the way, 25nm seems a bit too much. I would double check that value.
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      11-26-2013, 09:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Sparkle View Post
based on my experience, I also recommend replacing the plugs after the dealers changed it, or you'll risk stripping the bolt. It is made out of softer metal. For the oil change, buy the extra plugs, and have extras on hand in case you strip it. It's only like $1.47 or something.

I think Red Baron once had an unsuccessful oil change where he couldn't get the drain plug out without stripping the plug. (also without an extra one on hand, what a PITA, that and it was hot, muggy, and raining during the oil change)
I have experienced this. Luckily I ordered drain plugs (but forgot). Got one drain plug out, went to the second and it was already stripped due to the dealer. Ran to Lowes for an extraction tool and auto part store for new draing plug. New drain plug didn't work too well, but would allow for a seal and let me get the car off the lift.

Put in 1L of new oil, reached for the 2nd liter and realized I had new drain plugs. I switched them our real quick but lost some new oil.

Anyways, that was the longest oil change I have ever completed...
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      12-10-2013, 10:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Baron
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Sparkle View Post
based on my experience, I also recommend replacing the plugs after the dealers changed it, or you'll risk stripping the bolt. It is made out of softer metal. For the oil change, buy the extra plugs, and have extras on hand in case you strip it. It's only like $1.47 or something.

I think Red Baron once had an unsuccessful oil change where he couldn't get the drain plug out without stripping the plug. (also without an extra one on hand, what a PITA, that and it was hot, muggy, and raining during the oil change)
The torque levels were so extreme, two grown asian men couldn't calculate how much torque was needed to get the plug out. We needed calculators to figure it out but my TI-83 was out of juice.
Ti83?

Your calculations may have been wrong because i had to build a financial model in excel when i did mine

My torque values are always : strength it takes to loosen is strength it takes to tighten plus one or two umphs!
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      01-10-2014, 10:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Sparkle
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkim1079 View Post
Ti83?

Your calculations may have been wrong because i had to build a financial model in excel when i did mine

My torque values are always : strength it takes to loosen is strength it takes to tighten plus one or two umphs!
did your models take into account the max torque abilities of your arm? If you overtighten, you might fracture a bone.

Can we get a doctor to chime in on max torque value on one's forearm?
Oh damn. Didnt figure that in. My arms arent the variety of ahhnold's but since im asian ill put in the bruce lee size to strength proportion as another variable.

I may have been over torqueing!

Shit!

I wonder if thats what happened to derple?
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      01-10-2014, 03:27 PM   #14
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tahts what happens if you keep injecting in one spot LOL
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      01-11-2014, 01:37 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Sparkle
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkim1079 View Post
tahts what happens if you keep injecting in one spot LOL
if only these come with smaller allen wrench style adapters...



Minimum torque setting at 10000000 lbs.
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      01-11-2014, 03:18 PM   #16
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I feel like touching that torque wrench with your pinkie finger would just strip the living shit out of the nut.
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      01-13-2014, 10:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C|3R1C View Post
No difference between years. I believe drain bolt is 6mm hex. 25-nm sounds about right. I believe the torque value for the filter is on the cap.
New to this. Can you guys explain how to use a torque wrench on an object as large as the oil filter cap? Seems like wrench attachments are mostly for smaller things like lug nuts...
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      01-13-2014, 11:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupes View Post
New to this. Can you guys explain how to use a torque wrench on an object as large as the oil filter cap? Seems like wrench attachments are mostly for smaller things like lug nuts...

Don't bother. Just go hand-tight.
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      01-14-2014, 03:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupes
Quote:
Originally Posted by C|3R1C View Post
No difference between years. I believe drain bolt is 6mm hex. 25-nm sounds about right. I believe the torque value for the filter is on the cap.
New to this. Can you guys explain how to use a torque wrench on an object as large as the oil filter cap? Seems like wrench attachments are mostly for smaller things like lug nuts...
You need the 36mm socket for the filter cap. The socket will be for a 1/2in drive, so you need an adapter for 3/8in (unless your torque wrench is 1/2 drive but then the range of values would probably be too high). Thats how I do it.

Same with the drain bolts. I have a 3/8in drive torque wrench.
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