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      10-29-2013, 06:04 PM   #23
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I don't see any pictures in the first post. Is it just me?
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      10-30-2013, 03:46 PM   #24
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Hi, what year was the car that the engine came from? Thanks.
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      10-30-2013, 03:58 PM   #25
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I'm thinking that I'll be changing my oil at least twice a year just to try and avoid this type of thing. My car is currently having a new engine installed at BMW due to a very unfortunate hydrolock situation during a flash flood. I'm not taking any chances with the new engine. Break-in is supposed to be 1200 miles @ 5500 rpms or less but I'm changing oil at 600 miles then again at 1200 then every 7k miles.

I know it's off topic a bit, but it's something worth considering.
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      10-30-2013, 04:05 PM   #26
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Engine was from a 5/08 build 2008 E90
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      10-30-2013, 06:05 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeartMD View Post
Great another confidence inspiring thread.
Yeah man, this sucks!
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      10-31-2013, 08:27 PM   #28
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This is what I bet my bearings look like based on my oil analyses. I'm seeing some significant copper. Bearing metals keep going down though so I'm not sure what to think...

edit: I have 67k on the car now.
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      11-01-2013, 01:18 PM   #29
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Is this issue known to be more common in MY08 cars? Or is it just because the 08 cars are generally the ones with higher mileage?

Last edited by coogs08; 11-01-2013 at 01:25 PM.
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      11-01-2013, 02:08 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3PO View Post
This is what I bet my bearings look like based on my oil analyses. I'm seeing some significant copper. Bearing metals keep going down though so I'm not sure what to think...

edit: I have 67k on the car now.
If it was me, I would have changed the rod bearings as soon as you saw that the copper was high. That's never a good sign.
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      11-01-2013, 03:44 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
If it was me, I would have changed the rod bearings as soon as you saw that the copper was high. That's never a good sign.
Agreed. If the copper levels are showing up in the oil, that means the bearings are almost completely worn out. It's only a matter of time before they fail completely.
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      11-21-2013, 08:51 PM   #32
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Shame on my for not getting compression numbers on this motor. Looking at needing sleeves and a fully built bottom end. Car sat for 6 months before I bought it. One theory is the ring rusted to the cylinder bore. Another theory is cylinder wash from a stuck open injector. Result is same....low compression....unboreable block....needs sleeves, etc etc etc. This is cylinder 2 BTW, not one of the ones with really bad bearings.
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      11-21-2013, 10:16 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gobuffs
Shame on my for not getting compression numbers on this motor. Looking at needing sleeves and a fully built bottom end. Car sat for 6 months before I bought it. One theory is the ring rusted to the cylinder bore. Another theory is cylinder wash from a stuck open injector. Result is same....low compression....unboreable block....needs sleeves, etc etc etc. This is cylinder 2 BTW, not one of the ones with really bad bearings.
You should be able to bore the engine! There is 2+mm of material that can be removed from the bores!
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      11-22-2013, 12:18 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnydashore View Post
For 60k miles in an engine like this those bearings look really good. Easily if that rate of wear continued, the engine would see atleast another 60k. This engine did not blow up and was working fine I am sure.
You're high.
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      11-22-2013, 12:57 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFL View Post
You're high.
I have no idea how much longer a given set of bearings will last by a visual inspection. Unfortunately, it seems that no one else does either. I've posed the question again and again. I think both sides are offering near 100% speculation. Unfortunately the answer to this question is a very key part of this issue.

Could it be that bearings wear in/break in and then wear rates significantly decline? I have no idea but it does not seem unreasonable given some tiny alignment issues that will vary but are all within a tolerance specification.

Also related is the question of if the majority of passenger vehicles should/do show no visible bearing wear signs up to a high mileage figure (what is that "high" figure, 100k, 150k, 250k, etc.). The question is very interesting but also very tough to answer because it requires a complete bottom end tear down of an otherwise completely normal appearing/sounding/performing engine. Who does that exactly (other than those looking to check things out for a big supercharging mod...)? That is an entirely serious question.
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      11-22-2013, 05:58 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp2
Quote:
Originally Posted by MFL View Post
You're high.
I have no idea how much longer a given set of bearings will last by a visual inspection. Unfortunately, it seems that no one else does either. I've posed the question again and again. I think both sides are offering near 100% speculation. Unfortunately the answer to this question is a very key part of this issue.

Could it be that bearings wear in/break in and then wear rates significantly decline? I have no idea but it does not seem unreasonable given some tiny alignment issues that will vary but are all within a tolerance specification.

Also related is the question of if the majority of passenger vehicles should/do show no visible bearing wear signs up to a high mileage figure (what is that "high" figure, 100k, 150k, 250k, etc.). The question is very interesting but also very tough to answer because it requires a complete bottom end tear down of an otherwise completely normal appearing/sounding/performing engine. Who does that exactly (other than those looking to check things out for a big supercharging mod...)? That is an entirely serious question.
I was wondering the same thing too that maybe the bearings would "wear in" and create their own "proper" gap, effectively reducing wear. I wish someone could chime in with the answer.
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      11-22-2013, 08:13 PM   #37
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I have 130k on my 1/08 build e90 and will be sending out my oil on Tuesday , will post results ASAP
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      11-22-2013, 09:10 PM   #38
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Sounds like this failure for all opinions is due to a stuck injector (injector hasn't been formally checked).

As far as wear on rod bearings....they will show some wear due to label of oil pressure in start up, but the oil is designed to keep the bearings and the crank from coming into contact....hence the reason tight clearances being bad.

These bearings were way worse than a similar mileage S54 I changed the rod bearings on. This will continue to be an issue in the future on these motors IMO.
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      11-24-2013, 04:38 PM   #39
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Why can't the block be bored? Does rust-type damage go that deep or is it a precautionary measure?
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      11-24-2013, 04:50 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMM3PWR View Post
I have 130k on my 1/08 build e90 and will be sending out my oil on Tuesday , will post results ASAP
130K miles....thats 209,214 km...WOW man ! Congrats
BTW...i'm very curious to see the results of your oil analysis....
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      11-24-2013, 09:52 PM   #41
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Quote:
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Why can't the block be bored? Does rust-type damage go that deep or is it a precautionary measure?
These blocks, once bored have to be retreated. Cost, from what I hear, is about the same as sleeving them. The advantage of sleeving is future repairs.
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      11-24-2013, 09:55 PM   #42
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I see. Thanks for the reply.
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      11-24-2013, 10:04 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gobuffs View Post
These blocks, once bored have to be retreated. Cost, from what I hear, is about the same as sleeving them. The advantage of sleeving is future repairs.
Call Dinan to bore it. Blocks do not need to be retreated once bored, and the cost to bore/hone is only about $900. But you do need the right equipment and Dinan has the right equipment. I only have a vague idea of cost of sleeving, and boring should be less than 1/3 the cost.

Last edited by regular guy; 11-24-2013 at 10:34 PM.
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      11-24-2013, 11:36 PM   #44
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How does one go about getting a Oil analysis? Can the dealer do it?
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