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      09-25-2013, 02:02 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
Maybe try to clear the codes first? Or you could just disconnect the battery and see if it goes away (unlikely). I always kind of find it hard to believe that both would fail, but maybe it's just a coincidence (not the good kind).

But DIY is very straight forward though, you can PM me if you have any issues.
Thanks. Yes, I cleared them a couple times already. It keeps coming back. The other thing I should do first before purchasing new actuators is test the battery for voltage and alternator. I have heard that a bad battery can lead to all sorts of funky codes.
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      09-25-2013, 02:41 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehifi View Post
UPDATE: After driving the car a third time, the check engine light is gone! The code must
have finally cleared after the engine self-diagnosed itself.

thanks to everyone on this thread who has helped me. Changing the actuator myself, saved
me alot of $$$!
Hey Steve,
It was a pleasure helping you out and getting your ///M3 back on the road
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      09-25-2013, 04:42 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil@McKennaPerformance View Post
Hey Steve,
It was a pleasure helping you out and getting your ///M3 back on the road

I highly advise anyone needing throttle actuators for this vehicle to give Mckenna a call. Great service and prices! (best I could find by far!)
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      09-25-2013, 04:47 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by Fen335i View Post
I highly advise anyone needing throttle actuators for this vehicle to give Mckenna a call. Great service and prices! (best I could find by far!)
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      09-25-2013, 10:01 PM   #137
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Big thumbs up to Gilbert at McKenna BMW. He hooked me up with a great deal on the throttle actuator. He was professional, efficient and very personable..a great guy to deal with!

Thanks dude,

Steve


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Hey Steve,
It was a pleasure helping you out and getting your ///M3 back on the road
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      10-22-2013, 08:07 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by W/// View Post
I wouldn't even call it hard work. Half a day.

Definitely let me know if it goes out and you end up with questions.
I got 2B15 a month ago and replaced Bank 1 Throttle actuator (with a confirmed working used one from Ebay) and cleared the codes and everything was fine. I got home today and everything was all good and fine until I just went out to the car to check out the new nav disc I just burned and my car was in limp mode even before I cranked the car on. My question is does the throttle actuator turn work prior to fully turning the car over? I don't know how limp mode would occur with just pressing the engine on button without actually starting the car. I cleared the code and cranked it on afterwards and so far no problems. Do you think this actuator is now bad too?
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Last edited by aznboi319; 10-22-2013 at 08:34 PM.
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      10-22-2013, 08:33 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aznboi319 View Post
I got 2B25 a month ago and replaced Bank 1 Throttle actuator (with a confirmed working used one from Ebay) and cleared the codes and everything was fine. I got home today and everything was all good and fine until I just went out to the car to check out the new nav disc I just burned and my car was in limp mode even before I cranked the car on. My question is does the throttle actuator turn work prior to fully turning the car over? I don't know how limp mode would occur with just pressing the engine on button without actually starting the car. I cleared the code and cranked it on afterwards and so far no problems. Do you think this actuator is now bad too?
Open your hood and put your head near the intake manifold while someone else puts the key in and presses start (without starting the car). You will hear the actuators do a quick test as it checks travel range, speed, and current integral which checks the motor electrically. This last part it what usually kicks the error as the motor is strong enough to move past bad teeth, but draws excessive current to do so. The actuator electronics are programmed with an acceptable current curve and throw an error code to the DME when that current curve is exceeded.
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      10-22-2013, 08:38 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by jcolley View Post
Open your hood and put your head near the intake manifold while someone else puts the key in and presses start (without starting the car). You will hear the actuators do a quick test as it checks travel range, speed, and current integral which checks the motor electrically. This last part it what usually kicks the error as the motor is strong enough to move past bad teeth, but draws excessive current to do so. The actuator electronics are programmed with an acceptable current curve and throw an error code to the DME when that current curve is exceeded.
Hmm.. makes sense. I was able to replicate it again by just turning on the car without cranking it. So you think I should be okay for a while as long as I crank my car up each time?
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      10-22-2013, 08:49 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aznboi319 View Post
Hmm.. makes sense. I was able to replicate it again by just turning on the car without cranking it. So you think I should be okay for a while as long as I crank my car up each time?
Well, it's throwing the code for some reason. These actuators are notorious for the gears, did you say this one was used? You may be able to open it up and rotate the first reduction gear (white one) so that it lasts a while longer. But inevitably, it will have to either have new gears (nothing commercially available large scale yet) or get a new actuator.
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      10-23-2013, 04:18 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aznboi319 View Post
Hmm.. makes sense. I was able to replicate it again by just turning on the car without cranking it. So you think I should be okay for a while as long as I crank my car up each time?
I also bought not one but two used actuators off ebay and both were bad. You really should get a new one. If the car is still throwing the same code then the replacement actuator isn't working properly either.
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      10-31-2013, 07:01 PM   #143
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Thanks guys for all the orders! Really appreciate the continued support
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      11-01-2013, 01:05 PM   #144
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Received my actuator from Gil@McKennaPerformance yesterday afternoon.

Took me about 3 hours to install it. Would have saved some time if I had the trim removal tools.

Once it was installed, my car started right up. The engine malfunction, dsc, dbc, and start off assistant errors were gone. The increased emissions warning was still there however. But that error went away when I started the car this morning. I didn't need to reset any codes.

Hats off to W/// for putting together such a detailed and easy to follow DIY and many thanks to Gil for the fast and friendly service. His prices were far better than anything I could find especially in Canada.
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      11-01-2013, 04:53 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvace View Post
Received my actuator from Gil@McKennaPerformance yesterday afternoon.

Took me about 3 hours to install it. Would have saved some time if I had the trim removal tools.

Once it was installed, my car started right up. The engine malfunction, dsc, dbc, and start off assistant errors were gone. The increased emissions warning was still there however. But that error went away when I started the car this morning. I didn't need to reset any codes.

Hats off to W/// for putting together such a detailed and easy to follow DIY and many thanks to Gil for the fast and friendly service. His prices were far better than anything I could find especially in Canada.
Glad to hear your car is up and running again! Thanks for the support. I really appreciate it.
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      11-11-2013, 12:11 PM   #146
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Hi Guys,

I got the limp mode couple of weeks ago and when I plug in the Bavarian Technic tool, I got the following error code:

CDBF
Throttle flap acutator CAN-message Bank 1
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

The message code seems different from what others in the post have seen but the message is regarding the throttle actuator Bank 1. Since the first time I got this, it has reappeared several times within two weeks time so I'm sure that there is an issue but just want to make sure that it is the actuator before ordering.

Local shop can also run an actuator test to see, so I'll be bringing it soon to make sure also. Any help is appreciated.
thanks
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      11-11-2013, 02:39 PM   #147
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Just want to remind everyone, if your car is within 7yr/70k, throttle actuator is warrantied in many states under emissions laws. Not sure about Canada though. Check your manuals!
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      11-11-2013, 02:41 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xfactor View Post
Hi Guys,

I got the limp mode couple of weeks ago and when I plug in the Bavarian Technic tool, I got the following error code:

CDBF
Throttle flap acutator CAN-message Bank 1
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

The message code seems different from what others in the post have seen but the message is regarding the throttle actuator Bank 1. Since the first time I got this, it has reappeared several times within two weeks time so I'm sure that there is an issue but just want to make sure that it is the actuator before ordering.

Local shop can also run an actuator test to see, so I'll be bringing it soon to make sure also. Any help is appreciated.
thanks
Sounds like you are on the right path to me
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      11-11-2013, 03:18 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
Sounds like you are on the right path to me
Thanks. Just talke to Gil at McKenna and will be ordering the acutator. Just like everyone else said before, don't hesitate to contact Gil, the guy is truely amazing!

Probably tackling it this weekend. Local shop is asking $300 for the labour, the price is just right for me so I don't have to attpempt to fix it in my condo parking, but I do also want to change the plugs, so...decisions decisions.
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      11-11-2013, 03:20 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xfactor View Post
Thanks. Just talke to Gil at McKenna and will be ordering the acutator. Just like everyone else said before, don't hesitate to contact Gil, the guy is truely amazing!

Probably tackling it this weekend. Local shop is asking $300 for the labour, the price is just right for me so I don't have to attpempt to fix it in my condo parking, but I do also want to change the plugs, so...decisions decisions.
Depending on how many miles you have on the car, it's almost a no brainer to change the plugs while you have as much room as possible. And considering how big of a difference they make on S65's, I don't think it's a bad idea at all.
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      11-11-2013, 08:23 PM   #151
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Thanks guys for all the great feedback!
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      11-16-2013, 07:56 PM   #152
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Is this covered under CPO warranty? My car is throwing P154E anytime i give it like 30% throttle and then goes into limp mode. I clear the fault and then keep driving and if I do the same thing the fault/limp mode comes back.
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      11-19-2013, 02:27 PM   #153
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Is this covered under CPO warranty? My car is throwing P154E anytime i give it like 30% throttle and then goes into limp mode. I clear the fault and then keep driving and if I do the same thing the fault/limp mode comes back.
Just spoke to our performance department service adviser and he did say that CPO warranty will cover the throttle actuators.
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      11-21-2013, 03:11 PM   #154
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Mthrice is correct: They are covered!! "Just want to remind everyone, if your car is within 7yr/70k, throttle actuator is warrantied in many states under emissions laws. Not sure about Canada though. Check your manuals!"

My car is in the shop right now and they called and told me it was the TA-both banks and will be covered under emissions law. BTW...my 2008 M3 has 26k miles, warranty expired. Yet still covered, including the $200 diagnostic fee as well. I am very happy
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