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      09-06-2013, 01:30 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmntmn View Post
Pentosin FFL-4 are the same as if we buy it from the dealer right?
Yup, OEM BMW stuff is rebranded Pentosin, which pretty much all DCTs on the market currently use.
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      09-06-2013, 01:54 PM   #46
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Yup, OEM BMW stuff is rebranded Pentosin, which pretty much all DCTs on the market currently use.
Thanks
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      10-22-2013, 12:28 AM   #47
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So are people changing the DCT filter as well?
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      10-22-2013, 09:28 AM   #48
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So are people changing the DCT filter as well?
Not seeing any mention of it. The filter is about $60 -- part number 28107842840. I plan to change it.
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      11-14-2013, 08:46 PM   #49
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Where is the filter located? I'm not seeing any info. I plan to have it changed with the fluid but the only thing I can find is "located on the side of the transmission".
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      11-15-2013, 12:33 AM   #50
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has anyone done this with rhino ramps and jack stands? Or do you really need to get under there with a lift?
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      11-15-2013, 10:16 AM   #51
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has anyone done this with rhino ramps and jack stands? Or do you really need to get under there with a lift?
I would just be concerned about it not being level when draining. You could always jack up the rear of the car.
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      12-04-2013, 03:58 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnydashore View Post
So are people changing the DCT filter as well?
Notice ECS Tuning is showing DCT filter, did anyone change the filter out or just the oil?
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      12-04-2013, 04:12 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmntmn View Post
Notice ECS Tuning is showing DCT filter, did anyone change the filter out or just the oil?

I'm having my filter changed with the fluid next week. I see no reason not to do it. It's easy to get to -- right on the side of the housing.
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      12-04-2013, 07:56 PM   #54
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I'm having my filter changed with the fluid next week. I see no reason not to do it. It's easy to get to -- right on the side of the housing.
who doing the fluid change for you?
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      12-06-2013, 07:22 AM   #55
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Quote:
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who doing the fluid change for you?
A-Spec Tuning, a local BMW indy shop.
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      12-08-2013, 12:29 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
There is no defined interval from BMW, they will claim it's a lifetime fluid. The one you see above was done at 75k.

ECS recommends every 40k for some reason. They have a kit here: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-M3-...ion/ES2677651/
Wow, ECS offers a filter, fluid and plugs at a lower price compared to Turner Motorsports for fluid alone. Thanks for the share!!!
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      12-08-2013, 11:00 AM   #57
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ECS kit includes 5 liters of DCT fluid.
Turner is $33.95 per liter which works out to approx. $170 for the fluid alone. It's probably pretty close to equivalent, but you get everything you need in one kit (i.e. it's not some huge deal).
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      12-13-2013, 08:42 PM   #58
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So ECS offers the kit with 5 liters, i saw above someone said he used just a little over 5 liters. Will then I need to buy a extra liter separately? I don't wanna be in the middle of trying to fill the tranny and not have enough to fill it, and have to then drop by the dealer and pick up a liter for $65.00
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      12-13-2013, 09:16 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asloudasitgets View Post
So ECS offers the kit with 5 liters, i saw above someone said he used just a little over 5 liters. Will then I need to buy a extra liter separately? I don't wanna be in the middle of trying to fill the tranny and not have enough to fill it, and have to then drop by the dealer and pick up a liter for $65.00
If you order 6 liters you'll be fine. My indy shop was only able to get about 4 liters out.

Also, O'Reilly Auto Parts and/or NAPA stock the Pentosin FFL-4 for about $30/L if you really do get in a bind.
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      02-13-2014, 12:11 PM   #60
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Has the size of the hex driver required for the fill and drain plug ever been listed? What about torque specs?
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      02-13-2014, 10:09 PM   #61
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Has the size of the hex driver required for the fill and drain plug ever been listed? What about torque specs?
Don't know the size but torque is listed on the screw as 8 Nm.
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      02-20-2014, 06:10 PM   #62
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Has the size of the hex driver required for the fill and drain plug ever been listed? What about torque specs?
Just test fitted last. The plastic drain plug is a 10mm hex and the fill plug is an 8mm hex. The fill plug feels really light like it might be aluminum so don't go too crazy over-tightening.
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      02-28-2014, 04:54 PM   #63
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I'm assuming that if your car has been sitting for a long time, you don't have to do anything special to drain the fluid since it should be below the 90 deg temp indicated but what about after the initial fill and running it for 1 minute at 2k rpms? How long did it take to cool back down to below 104 deg? Just asking because I don't have a pyrometer and don't really want to go out and buy one just for this since it's not exactly a cheap tool to buy. Maybe if it was useful for other things but it will likely be one-time use if you only use it to change DCT fluids.
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      02-28-2014, 09:58 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
I'm assuming that if your car has been sitting for a long time, you don't have to do anything special to drain the fluid since it should be below the 90 deg temp indicated but what about after the initial fill and running it for 1 minute at 2k rpms? How long did it take to cool back down to below 104 deg? Just asking because I don't have a pyrometer and don't really want to go out and buy one just for this since it's not exactly a cheap tool to buy. Maybe if it was useful for other things but it will likely be one-time use if you only use it to change DCT fluids.
If your engine is cold when you start working on it (that morning), just drain the fluid, pour new in, run it, and then refill. It's not going to heat up substantially in that one minute.
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      03-03-2014, 02:06 PM   #65
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Replaced it yesterday. I was only able to get about 3-3/4L in and I'd say about 1/4L spilled out as I pumped it in. I tried starting the engine and reving to 2k RPMS procedure twice just to see if anymore would go in but the second time made no difference.

The fluid was not hot after 1 minute of running but those exhaust pipes in the area were damn hot. Burnt my arm on the passengers side.

I also had the replacement filter from the ECS kit but I didn't put it in because when I looked at it, I could not see a way to get the old one out. There were 2 hard lines right in front of it that didn't look like they were going to be easy to move. Has anyone else DIY'd the filter?
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      03-04-2014, 12:15 AM   #66
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I did mine last weekend a bit differently by removing the entire pan (after initial drain) to renew the seal. By the way if you need to replace the seal you have to replace the pan which is not a big deal because ECS offers it at a reasonable price. Surprisingly the oil looked brand new and didn't have a smell of burning at 70k miles, I was impressed.

One thing I did different and this is because I had a lift. I used 3 bottles to overflow. After this I ran it at 2k for 1 minute. Then I ran it through all the gears finishing it off with my buddy filling to overflow. I didn't worry for all these temperatures, not really needed.

All together I used 5 bottles.

On a note to everyone, dealerships seriously overcharge for a seal change (pan change) it's easy.......I mean easy! So unless under warranty just get it done yourself or at a Indy shop. Great transmission but it's not rocket science.
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