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      08-13-2013, 06:32 AM   #23
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you can also use that "clay" looking JBweld made for water gear. My M3 has the leak in the same area, so did my 335i, it's pretty common. Thanks for sharing pics of the area
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      09-24-2013, 09:23 AM   #24
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Hey guys, 335i owner checking in. I have what appears to be the same leak as the OP. Can someone confirm with this video?

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      09-24-2013, 11:47 AM   #25
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Looks like the same leak. You have to pull out the reservior to repair this anyhow.
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      09-25-2013, 10:06 PM   #26
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Thanks OP! Pulled the pump this evening and found this crack

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      11-07-2013, 06:25 AM   #27
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The part is 24 bucks on Ebay, get it over with, lol
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      12-14-2013, 06:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richbusta2 View Post
The part is 24 bucks on Ebay, get it over with, lol
Will this repair be covered under factory warranty on my 2011 335i? I've not really noticed a leak as yet but haven't really looked to be fair. All I know is that I put an entire gallon of RainX washer fluid in 4 or 5 days ago and the warning triggered today. I have used it a fair amount but I am assuming it should be near impossible to have gone through a gallon in a few days.
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      06-27-2014, 01:18 AM   #29
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Thanks for the fix info!

The crack on my washer pump is along the base of the side slot opening. Can the opening be filled up with sealant? (Red line is the crack)

Thanks guys
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      06-27-2014, 07:48 AM   #30
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It's ok guys. I found a non-genuine parts replacement pump by Vemo for HKD75, ie less than USD10.


Last edited by omak; 06-27-2014 at 12:18 PM.
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      06-27-2014, 10:48 AM   #31
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These things seem to crack quite a bit. I've recently developed a leak, as well. I'm thinking about getting some FlexSeal and coating it to see if that'll stop it.
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      06-30-2014, 06:44 AM   #32
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After two repairs attempts I ended up just replacing it.
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      11-08-2014, 05:13 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omak View Post
It's ok guys. I found a non-genuine parts replacement pump by Vemo for HKD75, ie less than USD10.
Do you have a part number for it?
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      02-11-2015, 10:23 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whats77inaname View Post
Do you have a part number for it?
Part Number is W0133-1955744-VMO. Price is about $20. I tried to repair my pump with RTV and just ended up replacing it after a failed attempt. after sealing the cracks very similar the the ones pictured above, I could plug one side and blow into the other side and air would come out where the electrical contacts were. It seems that an internal seal is bad. I would recommend replacing the pump. On another note, I installed the new pump and it wouldn't pull fluid. I had to prime the pump before connecting the hose to the windshield washer hose before it would spray.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/v...earchTerm=vemo

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Last edited by ethanw; 04-12-2015 at 11:01 PM. Reason: update
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      02-15-2016, 02:47 AM   #35
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Anyone use the above part?
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      02-15-2016, 06:49 PM   #36
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This just happened to my car yesterday. I went to my garage and saw a big puddle of liquid on the floor. I had used wiper to clean the windshield the day before.

I got into car and sprayed again and the spraying is like almost out to completely out...I'll jack it up and check it out.
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      02-15-2016, 10:19 PM   #37
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Yup. Took the wheel wells apart. PITA to get the whole tank out. Broke the side-marker light plastic retainer for the metal clip trying to get the wire connector off. But managed to put it back w/o it coming off.

It's coming out of the "tiny" cracks by the "opening". Almost invisible unless you put a magnifying glass on it. What the heck is that opening for? Not that it makes any difference.

DIY for M3 pictures on other thread is the right one for 335. I didn't take the fender out. Just the wheel wells...many DIYs but not for 335.

Tank removal is not possible. The last wire is wrapped by what looks like a tie-wrap retainer but it's one piece. Would be nice to take it off and hose it down. Saw some green algae stuff on the strainer.
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      02-16-2016, 06:55 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast4 View Post
Yup. Took the wheel wells apart. PITA to get the whole tank out. Broke the side-marker light plastic retainer for the metal clip trying to get the wire connector off. But managed to put it back w/o it coming off.

It's coming out of the "tiny" cracks by the "opening". Almost invisible unless you put a magnifying glass on it. What the heck is that opening for? Not that it makes any difference.

DIY for M3 pictures on other thread is the right one for 335. I didn't take the fender out. Just the wheel wells...many DIYs but not for 335.

Tank removal is not possible. The last wire is wrapped by what looks like a tie-wrap retainer but it's one piece. Would be nice to take it off and hose it down. Saw some green algae stuff on the strainer.
Where is the tank at? And even worse, what if the tank is leaking and NOT the pump? Still can't remove tank holding the fluid?
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      02-16-2016, 08:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Dub View Post
Where is the tank at? And even worse, what if the tank is leaking and NOT the pump? Still can't remove tank holding the fluid?
The tank is located inside the fender in front of the door. It's very long and odd shape sort of like a big bladder...gotta take off wheel well liners...I think 3 of them.

It seems common that the pump by the opening area cracks where it leaks. It drips from the crack. My tank looks to be in great shape. I ordered from eBay Febi for 14. It says made in Germany. I'm waiting on it.

I think I can remove the tank...it's the wire holder at the farthest which looks like tie-wrap in a hole. I can break it off and get the tank out. After cleaning, I can just use a real tie-wrap and go thru the hole to secure it.

The tricky part to avoid breaking is the side-marker light holder(plastic with metal spring clip in it which puts pressure to keep it in place...it's tight space w/o taking apart the fender(I didn't). Move the tank out a little so you can put your right hand in the crevice...feel for the light connector facing rear and grab the release tab and lightly wiggle it off. It comes out rather easily.

Another trick I wished I knew is the 3 plastic retainers clips for the liner. There is a small hole on the center you supposed to push it in so that the center piece falls out and now you can use flat-tip to pry them out...I pushed it a little too hard and found 2 center pieces but lost 3rd one in the abyss...gently push them so they don't fly into nowhere land so you can retrieve all 3...first time for everything right? Unless you wanna buy new one. Actually, tooth pick and magic marker could work.
I used multi-meter rod which looked perfect size...tooth pick should be good too to push it in.
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      02-17-2016, 02:43 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast4 View Post
The tank is located inside the fender in front of the door. It's very long and odd shape sort of like a big bladder...gotta take off wheel well liners...I think 3 of them.

It seems common that the pump by the opening area cracks where it leaks. It drips from the crack. My tank looks to be in great shape. I ordered from eBay Febi for 14. It says made in Germany. I'm waiting on it.

I think I can remove the tank...it's the wire holder at the farthest which looks like tie-wrap in a hole. I can break it off and get the tank out. After cleaning, I can just use a real tie-wrap and go thru the hole to secure it.

The tricky part to avoid breaking is the side-marker light holder(plastic with metal spring clip in it which puts pressure to keep it in place...it's tight space w/o taking apart the fender(I didn't). Move the tank out a little so you can put your right hand in the crevice...feel for the light connector facing rear and grab the release tab and lightly wiggle it off. It comes out rather easily.

Another trick I wished I knew is the 3 plastic retainers clips for the liner. There is a small hole on the center you supposed to push it in so that the center piece falls out and now you can use flat-tip to pry them out...I pushed it a little too hard and found 2 center pieces but lost 3rd one in the abyss...gently push them so they don't fly into nowhere land so you can retrieve all 3...first time for everything right? Unless you wanna buy new one. Actually, tooth pick and magic marker could work.
I used multi-meter rod which looked perfect size...tooth pick should be good too to push it in.
Awesome. Thank you
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      02-25-2016, 09:56 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Dub View Post
Awesome. Thank you
Yeah it's been about a week and new pump is not leaking and working good.
14 bucks is pretty damn good. Fitment wise, it's not exact as OEM...the elec connector is slightly different but it fits well otherwise.

I pried out the last wire retaining clip from the tank with needle nose. Took the tank out and ran it with garden hose. It was pretty clean except some green algae a bit.

Just watch out for the side-market light connector. You can't see but grab the end of it which is a release tab. Pull it back and should come out. If you fight with it, you'll break the light retaining metal clip housing. I broke it but partially so was able to put it back but not as firm as if not broken.
And the other thing is the 3 fender plastic clips. You push the middle hole with something like tooth pick "gently" so it falls near where you can find the middle piece. I took the fender out...
I lost 1 and just used Bic pen ink cartridge...cut it to length and viola!

I removed all 3 fender liners but you only need to remove 2 - middle and bottom liners. Not the front liner.

While you're there, take a look at the brake rotors and pads. I saw hairline cracks on middle of cooling vanes...Stoptech slotted rotors...rotor thickness too. Need rotors soon...happy motoring yo...
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      02-28-2016, 01:33 AM   #42
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I did this project about a month ago. You know when it is required because your low fluid warning light goes off way too frequently.
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      10-29-2016, 04:59 AM   #43
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Reviving this thread with a question;

For you folks that have headlight washers and have replaced the pump;
Do you have BOTH a windshield pump and a separate headlight pump? I've seen reference to two different part numbers, one for a windshield pump and one for a headlight washer pump. I'm slightly unsure as to whether they both go in the same place/serve the same function and one would simply order one out of the two based on if they had headlight washers or not, or if BOTH pumps are necessary on cars with headlight washers.

For those of you that went with the Vemo (or Meyle, Febi, etc.) pump, did you experience a reduction in pressure versus your OEM pump? If so, which brand of the three did you go with?

Thanks fellas!

Last edited by kamber; 10-29-2016 at 05:12 AM.
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